Gardening Recipes

Tepache recipe: how to turn pineapple skins into a delicious probiotic drink

Tepache recipe: how to turn pineapple skins into a delicious probiotic drink thumbnail

This simple tepache recipe uses pineapple skins that you might otherwise compost or throw in the trash. Best of all, it produces a delicious fermented probiotic beverage that tastes like pineapple kombucha.


We live at the base of the Appalachian Mountain in Ag Zone 7b. That means we get about four months of fairly cold weather and plenty of deep freezes.

Nevertheless, given our love of tropical fruits and obsession with gardening/farming, we’ve figured out how to grow things like citrus and bananas that would not normally grow in our climate zone.

Another tropical we’ve grown for the better part of a decade: pineapples.

It's so rewarding to watch a pineapple top you planted and nurtured for two years produce its first fruit. | Pineapple tepache recipe by Tyrant Farms

It’s so rewarding to watch a pineapple top you planted and nurtured for two years produce its first fruit.

Once you’ve had a pineapple that’s fully ripened to golden perfection on the plant, it’s hard to go back to the grocery store version. With a perfectly ripe pineapple, the flavor is far sweeter, more nuanced, and more intense than the store bought alternative.

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6 Comments

  • Reply
    Pat Bradley
    October 13, 2022 at 8:16 pm

    Excited to try the drink just canned a dozen “free” pineapples and am making two 1/2 gallon and 1 gallon of tepache guess I’ll have to share!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 14, 2022 at 7:19 am

      Hope you enjoy your tepache! It’s a great flavor.

  • Reply
    BagOfSunshine
    June 30, 2022 at 7:59 pm

    I was looking for haymakers Switzerland recipes when I saw this. Never heard of it so I clicked, and wow, what a treasure this page is! Gardening info on how to grow pineapples as well as a probiotic beverage recipe! We’ve been buying pineapples from the farmers market and I always feel bad composting the skins; just seems wasteful because of all the fruit attached. This is awesome. I have a half pineapple in my fridge right now and imma gonna go plant it and make this tepache. Five stars, great blog entry, it’s a treasure box of useful info.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 1, 2022 at 11:33 am

      Thanks so much! Yes, every pineapple can be a zero waste food that grows an infinite number of future pineapples. The skins can be used to make tepache, then composted. The tops can be used to grow more pineapples. Then the process repeats. Hope you enjoy your homemade tepache!

  • Reply
    Jennifer
    April 6, 2021 at 9:56 am

    Waiting on my first batch.

    One thing I noticed, this recipe compared to other tepache uses les of the fruit/skins. Some call for using ALL of the skins, not just a cup. Is that because their purpose is more the “Mexican beer” than a probiotic?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 6, 2021 at 11:34 am

      Hi Jennifer! Not sure what discrepancies might exist between our tepache recipe and others – or why. One thing: when you chop up the pineapple skins, it’s a lot smaller quantity to measure than it would be in large chunks. Obviously, the size of the pineapple will also determine the quantity of skin which is why we used exact measurements (cups) rather than telling people to use one pineapple skin. Any time we have skins from one of our ripe pineapples, this is our go-to recipe. Hope you enjoy it!

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Gardening

DIY: How to grow shiitake mushrooms

This simple, step-by-step guide will show you exactly how to grow shiitake mushrooms — a delicious gourmet mushroom with scientifically proven health benefits.

How to Grow Shiitake Mushrooms - a step-by-step guide

Fight Cancer, Harvest Sunlight to Produce Your Own Vitamin D, and Boost Your Immune System… all by learning how to grow shiitake mushrooms!

You may have noticed from our Instagram photos and other articles, that The Tyrant and I love mushrooms. That wasn’t always the case.

We used to think that mushrooms were just the bland white button variety (Agaricus bisporus) that we saw in the grocery store. The only other mushrooms we knew about were portobellos, which are actually just a more mature white button mushroom (yep, Agaricus bisporus too).

An introduction to a whole new world of gourmet mushrooms 

That all changed in 2010 when we got to know mycologist (mushroom scientist) Tradd Cotter. Since then, we’ve steadily grown in our knowledge of and passion for gourmet, medicinal mushrooms. Today, we grow our own mushrooms and wild-forage mushrooms as well.

As a result, we know that there are seemingly infinite varieties of delicious edible mushrooms that come in every imaginable size, shape, color, and flavor.

Gorgeous chanterelle and cinnabar mushrooms from a summer forage in the woods.

Gorgeous chanterelle and cinnabar mushrooms from a summer forage in the woods.

Some of our favorite mushrooms range in taste from the fruity & nutty chanterelles to maple syrup flavored parasols to savory & sublime morels.

And, just to give you a proper appreciation for the size that mushrooms can grow, the largest living organism on earth, is a 4 mile wide edible honey mushroom!

Fruiting Honey mushrooms in the woods behind our home.

Fruiting Honey mushrooms in the woods behind our home.

Learn the Safety Rules Before You Start Foraging and Eating Mushrooms 

Unless you live in the desert, chances are there are many edible mushroom varieties that grow wild in your yard or nearby woods.

Just as you shouldn’t get behind the wheel of a car without proper training/education, you should NEVER eat a mushroom (or anything else) that you’re not 100% sure you’ve correctly ID’d. Doing so could result in extreme illness or a slow and painful death.

Scared? Good!

Instead of letting your healthy fear of mushrooms keep you off of the mushroom “road” forever, why not just learn how to drive safely and then enjoy all the places these wonderful organisms will take you?

If you’re still not convinced that you should consider getting your “driver’s license” in mushrooms, you might be further swayed by knowing that many varieties of mushrooms have incredible medicinal benefits: they’re antiviral, antimicrobial, anticancer, antihyperglycemic, cardioprotective, and anti-inflammatory.

Want to keep reading? Good!

Mycorrhizal mushrooms 

Many of our favorite gourmet mushrooms can’t be commercially cultivated since they are “mycorrhizal,” i.e. they form symbiotic relationships with the roots of plants.

Mycorrhizal mushrooms vastly expand the reach of a plant’s root system to help it draw in additional water and nutrients. In return, the plants provide the mushrooms with a constant source of carbohydrates via glucose and sucrose. It’s estimated that 95% of all plants are mycorrhizal.

So, when you’re walking through the woods and you see mushrooms, you’re seeing a very small portion of the actual organism — the visible fruiting body. Meanwhile, a massively complex, interconnected web of organisms are dancing invisibly underneath your feet.

A mushroom is to its fungal body what an apple is to a tree. Isn’t nature cool?

The Easiest Mushrooms to Grow At Home 

Not all mushrooms are mycorrhizal. Many of the best edible mushrooms in the world can easily be cultivated without needing living tree roots to associate with.

At Tyrant Farms, we’re currently growing oyster, shiitake, king stropharia, chicken of the woods, and blewit mushrooms, not to mention at least 15 native edible varieties we’ve enjoyed from our lawn and/or the woods behind our home that were here long before we were.

A delicious and very hard to find umbrella polypore.

This particular article is about a revered Asian delicacy with a wide range of medicinal properties to boot: the shiitake mushroom.

We’ve had some beautiful shiitake harvests over the years, and wow are they a delicious mushroom. As such, we wanted to let you know how to grow shiitake mushrooms, too!

Another cool DIY trick we’ll teach you below: you can supercharge your shiitake mushrooms with extra Vitamin D before eating them.

Keep reading to find out how!

DIY: How to Grow Shiitake Mushrooms

How to grow shiitake mushrooms, a step-by-step guide from Tyrant Farms

A beautiful cluster of shiitake mushrooms from our logs. These are gill-side up and ready to be charged with Vitamin D in the sun.

The shiitake growing instructions below are very detailed, so they may look complicated at first glance. However, learning how to grow shiitake mushrooms is actually quite simple.

For reference, think about how complicated instructions for making a peanut butter & jelly sandwich look when you see them in writing. Same thing here, so don’t be intimidated!

I. How to Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: MATERIALS LIST 

Here’s the materials you’ll need to grow shiitake mushrooms in logs:

  • 100 inoculated shiitake mushroom plugs. You can buy shiitake plugs here. We grow both warm weather and cool weather shiitakes so that we can get fresh shiitake mushrooms throughout the year. 
  • Two (2) recently cut hardwood tree sections with bark still on. These should be 4-8 inches in diameter and 3-4 feet long. Thick barked hardwoods such as oaks & poplars are ideal. To make more shiitake logs, get more shiitake mushroom plugs at the same ratio (roughly 50 plugs per 6″ diameter x 4′ long log).
  • High speed/power drill with a multi-purpose 5/16″ drill bit. If you want to get more serious and do a lot of logs, you’ll probably want to upgrade to an angle grinder with specialized high speed adapter as you can see here.
  • Rubber mallet (or hammer but mallet is better) for tapping the mushroom plugs into the holes.
  • Food grade wax, some beeswax or cheese wax for sealing your mushroom plugs in the log. Note: canning wax isn’t ideal because it becomes really brittle and can fall off leaving your logs open & exposed to being colonized by other mushrooms.
  • Old junk can for melting your wax.
  • Camping stove or other heat source for melting wax in can. We just use our stove top and reheat the wax as necessary.
  • Small paint brush for applying wax.

II. How to Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: STEP BY STEP GUIDE  

1. Inoculate your shiitake logs in the warm months, ideally spring. 

If you inoculate your shiitake logs in the middle of winter when it’s below freezing out, the spawn won’t be very active. The ideal time to inoculate shiitake logs is after freezing weather has passed in the spring.

You can continue to inoculate your shiitake logs throughout the warm months up until a couple months before your first freeze.

2. Order Your Shiitake Mushroom Plugs

Once you’ve got your logs identified or cut, go ahead and order your shiitake mushroom plugs. Again, 100 shiitake plugs is enough to do two, 6″ diameter logs that are 3-4′ long. If you have more logs, order more shiitake plugs.

If you can’t use your shiitake plugs within a week of arrival, stick them in the fridge for up to 6 months.

3. Cut hardwood tree sections or source just-cut hardwood logs.

Select two suitable living hardwood tree sections or tree branches that are 4-8 inches in diameter and 3-4 feet long. Oak is ideal, but other hardwoods are fine too.

100 mushroom plugs will adequately inoculate two logs with the above dimensions.

We used to recommend letting your logs “cure” for 2-4 weeks in a shaded, dry environment off of the dirt or forest floor (like a garage or shed floor). That’s because healthy, living trees have anti-fungal agents in their sap, so 2 weeks allows time for these compounds to dissipate.

However, our mycologist friend who originally made that recommendation to us years ago now says that he inoculates his logs immediately after cutting. Apparently, the mushroom spawn will “hang out and wait,” then start to inoculate the logs as soon as the wood’s anti-fungal compounds break down.

The longer you let your logs sit without inoculating them with your shiitake mushroom plugs, the more time you give fungal spores from other species to land on your logs and start to grow.

So don’t wait more than one month before inoculating your logs or your mushrooms will likely have increased competition.

4. Drill Holes In Your Shiitake Mushroom Logs

Use a power drill with a 5/16″ drill bit attachment to drill offsetting, parallel rows of holes in each log. This should look like a diamond pattern.

Each hole should be about 1 1/4″ deep and no more than 3-4″ apart.

Ideally on a 3ft log, you should have 50 holes per log. On a 6ft. log, you should have 100 holes. We prefer the shorter 3ft logs because they’re much easier to carry and move.

5. Insert Your Shiitake Mushroom Plugs Into Logs

Time for mushroom surgery! Wash your hands to make sure you’re not infecting your shiitake plugs with any competing fungi.

In a shaded area, separate your plugs into two piles of 50 plugs (assuming you’re using 3ft logs). Put the plugs on a clean surface, like a washed plate or a ziplock bag.

Put your logs on newspaper or plastic if you don’t want melted wax on the floor/ground. Insert your shiitake plugs into each hole. Immediately tap them in with your rubber mallet or hammer.

Make sure each shiitake plug is well set into the hole so that the surface of the plug is at or below the surface level of the log.

Don’t leave any drilled holes empty! If needed fill any empty holes with wax, or another species of mushroom will take hold there.

6. Melt and Apply Wax to Your Shiitake Logs

On a stove top, grill, or camp stove, heat your wax until fully melted.

Using a cheap paint brush, seal each cut end of the log completely with melted wax. Next, seal each hole thoroughly with wax so that each shiitake plug has its own tight little “house,” safe from other competing fungi that might come knocking.

7. Incubate Your Shiitake Logs for 6-12 Months

Place your shiitake logs in a shady, moist location off of the ground but within reach of a garden hose. You don’t want too much sunlight to hit the logs, and you don’t want the logs touching the ground, which encourages other competing fungi to come aboard.

An old palette, bricks, or concrete blocks are good for this purpose. Ideally, you can also cover your logs with a breathable cloth (such as a shade cloth or weed blocker) to help keep out sun while allowing moisture to come through, Don’t use plastic since this will make your logs mold!

Once you have your logs stored, it’s time to think about their water needs…

  • Wet climate – If you live in a moist climate like we do, you can water your shiitake logs once per week for about 10 minutes during a dry week in which it doesn’t rain. If you get a good soaking rain, don’t worry about watering them).
  • Dry climate – If you live in a dry/arid climate, you should plan to water your logs twice per week for 10+ minutes each time. Don’t water your logs if the outside temps are below freezing as this can cause your logs to split or loose their bark.

To help remember to water your shiitake logs, we recommend setting up a recurring calendar event with an alert so that your technology can help you take care of your biology.

8. When Ready, “Initiate” Your Shiitake Logs

Under ideal conditions, your shiitake logs will be ready to fruit after 6 months, but it’s recommended that you wait at least 9-12 months before “initiating” them. “Initiating” them means forcing them to fruit and produce mushrooms.

It takes a lot of energy for the shiitake colony to produce mushrooms (like having a baby). Waiting to initiate them ensures that the colony is really strong.

Your logs will do a pretty good job of telling you when they’re ready: keep an eye on the cut ends of the logs that you sealed with wax, and if the surface area looks dark and mottled, then you know the colony has taken over the log and is ready to fruit.

Sometimes, under ideal conditions, your logs will go ahead and fruit on their own without your help.

Once you’ve determined that your shiitake logs are ready to be initiated, you’ll want to submerge them in water for 24 hours. You can use a bathtub, a pail, a contractor bag, a natural (clean) body of water, or whatever else you can come up with that’s big enough.

Ideally, you can use non-chlorinated water (rain, spring, boiled tap water, creek, etc), but we’ve found that water straight out of the hose will work fine if that’s your only option.

Since we originally wrote this article, we've since built our own backyard duckpond for our egg-laying Welsh Harlequin ducks. As you can see here, our duck pond makes an ideal spot to soak/initiate our shiitake mushroom logs - although our ducks might disagree! We usually soak our shiitake logs overnight so our girls can enjoy log-free swimming during the day. / How to grow shiitake mushrooms

Since we originally wrote this article, we’ve built our own backyard duck pond for our egg-laying Welsh Harlequin ducks. As you can see here, our duck pond makes an ideal spot to soak/initiate our shiitake mushroom logs – although our ducks might disagree! We usually soak our shiitake logs overnight so our girls can enjoy log-free swimming during the day.

After 24 hours of soaking, place your logs back in a shady area and in an upright, vertical position. This insures that when mushrooms start forming, they don’t get dirty.

You’ll see “primordia” (baby mushrooms) form sometime between 2-14 days. Make sure the shiitake logs stay moist during this waiting period by watering them 1-2 times per day for about 5 minutes each time.

Soon, your whole log will be covered with beautiful shiitake mushrooms! There’s not a “right” size to eat them—you can pick them when they’re small or let them get huge.

9. Harvest Sunlight to Boost Vitamin D, Then Cook & Eat Your Shiitake Mushrooms!

We learned an incredibly cool, simple technique courtesy of famed mushroom expert, Paul Stamets, that literally allows you to harvest sunlight to produce Vitamin D.

Vitamin D3 is produced from animals and used in most D vitamin supplements. Vitamin D2 is the type of D vitamin found in mushrooms and plants.

As Stamets says, “Vitamin D is an essential vitamin that boosts the immune system and plays vital roles in human metabolism.”

Vitamin D is incredibly good for you, and you need it regularly to stay healthy, especially in the northern hemisphere or during the fall, winter, and early spring when there is less sunlight, preventing your body from producing its own Vitamin D.

How to grow shiitake mushrooms and turn them into Vitamin D powerhouses:

Once you’ve harvested your shiitake mushrooms, put them in a sunny location gill side up for 24-48 hours.

This has been proven to drastically boost the shiitake’s natural Vitamin D2 levels from around 100 IU/100 grams to nearly 46,000 IU/100 grams!


Cooking with shiitake mushrooms 

Now that you know how to grow shiitake mushrooms, we recommend you learn how to cook them! Not to worry.

There are infinite numbers of ways to cook your delicious and versatile shiitake mushroom. Just do a google search and start experimenting. We just made this easy shiitake mushroom green bean stir fry recipe courtesy of Jaden Hair over at Steamy Kitchen.

If you have too many shiitkae mushrooms to eat, don’t worry. Dry them and put them in an airtight container. Yes, the elevated Vitamin D levels will last for over one year – and you can also put dry shiitakes out in the sun gill-side up to charge back up!

We hope this How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms Guide will inspire you to grow and enjoy your own shiitake mushrooms at home, year round!

Shiitake Mushroom Logs at Tyrant Farms

Warning: Don’t ever eat anything that you can’t identify with 100% certainty. Also, it’s estimated that 1-2% of the population may experience an allergic reaction to mushrooms due to their body’s inability to digest them (they don’t have the necessary enzymes).

So, the first time you eat a shiitake or any other edible mushroom, just try a small amount. Wait 24-48 hours and if you haven’t experienced an allergic reaction, it’s safe to assume that your body is perfectly capable of digesting them.

More fun fungi articles you might enjoy:

7 Comments

  • Reply
    Sarah
    January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    Thanks for the detailed instructions. Approximately how much will each log produce? How long will they continue to produce?

  • Reply
    Baz Daniels
    January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    Thank you so much! I’m getting started now.

  • Reply
    Cynthia
    January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    When you put your mushrooms in the sun to harvest vitamin D, how long do you leave them out and do you need to be concerned about animals bothering them?

  • Reply
    Jonathan
    October 24, 2013 at 6:25 pm

    How long will your mushroom log keep producing fruit?

    This sounds like something I am going to try out!

    • Reply
      Susan
      October 25, 2013 at 12:07 pm

      They should produce for several years, but you can also capture the spore from your mushrooms and inoculate new logs with them to keep them going for as long as you want them. Sometimes that process happens accidentally too!

  • Reply
    The Easiest Way To Make Your Solar Panels-Understand The Proper Way To Build Your Own Solar Panels
    December 22, 2012 at 2:24 pm

    […] way Feather Tresses ExtensionsA Review Of Solar Stirling PlantWho Says Calculators Can’t Be FunAn easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to grow shiitake mushrooms.Who Says Calculators Can’t Be FunAn easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to grow shiitake […]

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    The Easiest Way To Make Your Solar Panels-Understand The Proper Way To Build Your Own Solar Panels
    December 22, 2012 at 2:24 pm

    […] way Feather Tresses ExtensionsA Review Of Solar Stirling PlantWho Says Calculators Can’t Be FunAn easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to grow shiitake mushrooms.Who Says Calculators Can’t Be FunAn easy step-by-step DIY guide on how to grow shiitake […]

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Gardening Recipes

Recipe: red Shishito pepper soup

Recipe: red Shishito pepper soup thumbnail

Red Shishito pepper soup is an easy and delicious way to use up a big harvest of ripe, red shishito peppers — or other varieties of thin-skinned, sweet red peppers.


The Legendary Shishito Pepper

If you’ve never grow shishito peppers before, you should remedy that predicament as soon as the next warm weather growing season heads your way.

Shishito peppers are a sweet-flavored Japanese heirloom. They offer a wrinkled texture and thin skin.

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    Beak
    September 7, 2021 at 5:33 pm

    Great flavor, and I’m glad to use up all my red shishitos (I had four plants this year and couldn’t keep up!!). I highly recommend straining out the solids before serving; the seeds and tough skin were tough to get through after half a bowl, but once strained it was perfect. I also had to use a food processor, because when I tried my immersion blender the pan was too shallow and I painted my walls with soup haha. Thanks for the recipe!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 8, 2021 at 12:32 pm

      Sorry about painting your walls, but glad you enjoyed the red shishito pepper soup! Thanks also for the straining tip in case other people want to go that route.

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Foraged Recipes

Chicken of the woods mushrooms – how to grow, forage & eat w/ recipe

Chicken of the woods mushrooms - how to grow, forage & eat w/ recipe thumbnail

In this article, you’ll discover how to find, identify, grow, and cook chicken of the woods mushrooms.


Video below: a gorgeous chicken of the woods mushroom growing on an old oak tree in a residential neighborhood in Mt. Pleasant, SC. This is a Laetiporus sulphureus, a chicken of the woods subspecies that grows above ground on the sides of standing trees/stumps. As you’ll learn about in this article, other chicken subspecies grow out of underground tree roots.

 
 

*Note: Above video showing chicken of the woods mushrooms may not display or play if you run ad-blocking software – sorry! Temporarily disable and refresh to view. 

Chicken of the woods mushrooms – the mushroom with the taste and texture of actual chicken

Each summer in late July, we drive by one of our trusty chicken of the woods mushroom spots that has produced huge mushrooms at the same time each of the past 10+ summers.

Bingo! Peering at us from the base of a large, dying oak tree another large, orange/white-colored chicken of the woods will inevitably show up within the same general time period each summer.

In case you’ve never heard of them, chicken of the woods mushrooms are gourmet fungi with the same taste and texture as chicken. Yes, seriously!

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19 Comments

  • Reply
    Norm
    August 26, 2023 at 11:32 am

    I have just discovered a giant oak that I have been cutting on for firewood that is loaded w/ chicken of sea….Ive found them before but never like this…I estimate them to come in at aroound 30 lbs. I’m on my way to the woods …..thank you for your fine article and most helpful info….Norm

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 26, 2023 at 2:02 pm

      Wonderful! Hope you enjoy your chicken of the woods mushroom bonanza, Norm.

  • Reply
    Lisa
    June 14, 2021 at 2:05 pm

    Would love to see pics of yours growing from plug spawn! From what I’m gathering they’re not too cooperative. When I do searches of other cultivated species like oysters or hen of the woods I can find endless pages with pics of them growing on multiple bags indoors or on neatly stacked logs outside, but I can’t find that with chicken of the woods.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      June 15, 2021 at 1:01 pm

      Hi Lisa! We’re not growing chicken of the woods at the moment so I can’t share pics. We’ve been time-starved with an 18 month old toddler at home, COVID, etc, so our home mushroom cultivation has taken a temporary hiatus. However, next time we grow chicken of the woods, we’ll be sure to post some process photos. It’s also worth noting that if you spend a lot of time in the woods/hiking during the warm months, you’ll usually come across them somewhat regularly — and they’ll fruit at the same spot at roughly the same time year after year until the tree they’re eating is pretty far rotten. So even if you don’t cultivate them, you can usually find plenty to stock your freezer.

  • Reply
    Simon
    June 14, 2021 at 7:31 am

    Amazing article but you should really not conceal the possibility for those mushrooms to grow on poisonous trees (yew, laburnum…). The mushrooms will also contain the poison from those trees and become very dangerous. ALWAYS check the tree species when you fnd this mushroom.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      June 14, 2021 at 12:31 pm

      Thanks for your concern, Simon. I don’t think we concealed that issue. In the article, we stated the following: “Apparently, there are some chicken species that can even grow on eucalyptus and cedar. It’s not advisable to eat chickens growing on this type of wood since the fungi uptake compounds from those tree species that could cause you GI distress.” For clarity, I’ll update/edit to recommend not eating chicken of the woods on any tree species other than hardwoods.

  • Reply
    Fanatoli Guyoff
    February 24, 2020 at 4:23 pm

    That’s really cool but I’d hope you already knew they could tolorate them. I had a bite of a chicken of the woods my friend grew on I think straw and seed hulls or something like that, and while I liked it, a bit later in the night my lips puffed up pretty good. Very nearly went to the hospital to get an epi pen, but benadryl and a few more hours I was confidant it was going down on it’s own. Had I eaten a plate of them I would have been in for the ER room for sure though.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 25, 2020 at 6:21 pm

      Yikes! Did you eat them raw or cooked? They should not be eaten raw. It’s pretty rare to have an allergic reaction to well-cooked mushrooms but it does happen. Regardless, glad you’re ok.

      • Reply
        Fanatoli Guyoff
        February 25, 2020 at 6:38 pm

        They were quite well cooked. Stir fried in some garlic butter and caramelized onions with a little green onion added at the end. yeah me too! I like living haha. too bad i thought they were pretty good. I had only had a couple bites because his initial yield was low. I think the next year he had a lot more growing with wood plugs in a log or something like that.

        • lisa
          June 14, 2021 at 1:50 pm

          What you’re describing is a known effect from chicken of the woods! It’s not an allergy, it’s some kind of intolerance. That’s why good field guides are always saying to only try a few well-cooked bites of mushrooms if you’ve never eaten that kind before, then wait a day to make sure they agree with you.

  • Reply
    Broc Day
    September 11, 2019 at 9:56 pm

    Hello! We’ve just moved and found some chicken of the woods in our forest. If we want to harvest it but also make sure it’ll keep growing, do we need to leave some behind? Or will it come back next year (if the log has enough lignin left of course) if you cut off everything you can get to?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 12, 2019 at 11:35 am

      The part of the mushroom you see is the fruiting body of a much larger organism, similar to an apple on a tree. You can harvest the entire mushroom and not impact its ability to fruit again next year. As you mentioned, what will impact its fruiting potential is the amount of food the mushroom has left, so once it’s digested all the wood’s nutrients, the parent fungal organism will die.

      • Reply
        Broc Day
        September 12, 2019 at 12:59 pm

        Ah, okay, perfect. That’s kind of what I figured, but great to have confirmed, thank you!!

  • Reply
    yakdude
    June 18, 2017 at 7:00 pm

    Your protein reference is not a great source as anybody can input information into my fitness pal. I’m personally trying to find a legitimate Source now but I thought you should know. It seems like it’s abnormally high in protein per this so I’d like to find a legitimate source.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      June 19, 2017 at 2:00 pm

      Thank you. There’s not much out there on the net about their macronutrient content. We have a friend who is a mycologist, and will check to see if he knows the nutritional breakdown.

      • Reply
        Jenny Lee
        April 29, 2020 at 6:22 pm

        Fitness pal now lists the protein content as 1 gram…you should change your article or at least make note of the insufficient data, otherwise this is HIGHLY misleading.

        P.s. love the recipe! and fried chicken of the woods 🙂

        • Aaron von Frank
          April 30, 2020 at 2:57 pm

          Thanks for the heads up! When we originally published this article, there was virtually no info out there on this topic. Thankfully, there’s been recent solid research published analyzing chicken of the woods from a nutritional standpoint. We just crunched the numbers from a 2017 research paper and used that info to update the article accordingly:

          According to a 2017 analysis published in the journal Pharmacogn 100 gm (dry weight) of chicken of the woods has the following nutritional breakdown:

          15 gm protein
          70.9 gm carbohydrates
          2.1 gm fat
          5.8 gm ash (“ash” refers to the total quantity of vitamins and minerals in a food substance)
          5.8 gm fiber

  • Reply
    Paul jordan II
    July 12, 2015 at 8:50 pm

    This was a great post. Thank you. It was very informative. I enjoyed reading it

  • Reply
    Aaron
    April 7, 2014 at 9:10 am

    Renny: Yes, you can grow Chicken of the Woods in your garden – we grow them in ours. You’ll need to order Chicken of the Woods “plugs” (they resemble miniature corks) that are inoculated with the mushroom. We got ours from Mushroom Mountain (http://www.mushroommountain.com/). Whoever you get them from should provide detailed instructions on how to grow them. With this type of mushroom, you basically drill plug-sized holes in a hardwood log that’s been cut within the past two weeks and put your mushroom plugs in the holes, cover them with melted wax and wait about 6+ months before you get your first fruiting. You’ll need to be a bit careful with Chicken of the Woods since it is a saprobic mushroom, meaning it quite literally “eats” trees, both living and dead. A healthy tree can fend them off, but if you have a treasured old tree near your garden that is a bit sick of has an open wound on it, the spores of the Chicken of the Woods will likely find it and start doing their work. If the mushroom was named based on its function in nature, it would probably be the “coyote of the woods” not the “chicken of the woods.” Hope that helps!

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Foraged Recipes

Recipe: Hickory nut ambrosia, an easy-to-make fall drink

Recipe: Hickory nut ambrosia, an easy-to-make fall drink thumbnail

Yes, hickory nuts are edible and delicious — although hard to crack. In this article, we’ll share a simple and tasty hickory nut recipe that can be made without separating the hickory nut from the shell. 


Hickory nut recipe: hickory nut ambrosia by Tyrant Farms

Forest gardening with native trees 

We have a number of large trees in our yard and border woods here at Tyrant Farms. As gardeners, we once viewed these trees with scorn since they block light and take nutrients from our annual food crops. However, as we became more adept foragers, we learned to see these native trees in a much different light…

For instance, we used to regard the huge white oak acorns that fall all over our back yard as annoyances. Now, we use our acorns to make delicious, nutritious acorn flour that we eat throughout the year. 

Those giant sun-blocking tulip poplars? They’re the primary source of the majority of local honey in our area. Also, their root systems are symbiotically engaged with one of our favorite mushrooms: the tulip morel, which fruits for about one month per year in the early spring.

As it turns out, nearly every tree in our woods not only supports a huge variety of life (above and below ground), they either directly or indirectly provide an abundance of delicious edible food for us as well. Another tree that fits this description: hickories (Carya spp.).  

Hickory as an edible nut tree

Loaded! A giant hickory tree full of hickory nuts in our back yard. Hickory nut ambrosia recipe article by Tyrant Farms

Loaded! A giant hickory tree full of hickory nuts in our back yard.

It just so happens that we have a massive hickory tree that drops nuts the size of golf balls in some of our backyard garden beds. Thankfully, we’ve never been hit, but a few of those falling hickory nuts have smashed squash and melon plants.

At first, we didn’t know quite what to make of our hickory nuts… We’d peel off the thick green/brown husk, and the shell on the inside was thick and rock-hard. 

An unopened hickory nut freshly fallen from a hickory tree in early fall. / Hickory nut recipes - hickory nut ambrosia

An unopened hickory nut freshly fallen from a hickory tree in early fall.

Hickories are very closely related to pecans. In fact, pecans are a species of hickory.

Hickories are more distantly related to walnuts. However, relative to these other two nuts, hickory nuts shells are incredibly hard — and hard to crack open. (*There is some variability in shell hardness between different species of hickories.)

No matter how we’ve tried to crack our hickory nuts, the shells always shatter into small pieces, making the clean extraction of the nutmeat impossible. Normal nut crackers are of no use — a hammer is the only instrument we have that’s strong enough to crack a hickory nut. 

What do hickory nuts taste like? 

The small hickory nut pieces inside a shattered shell provide a tantalizing taste of the goodness inside… Hickory nuts’ flavor profile is somewhere between a pecan and a black walnut. 

A pile of cracked hickory nuts.

A pile of cracked hickory nuts used to make this hickory nut ambrosia recipe, shells and all.

(*Note: Not all species of hickory trees make good edible nuts. As their name implies ‘bitternut’ hickories (Carya cordiformis) produce very bitter nuts that are not fit for consumption.)

Making our first hickory nut ambrosia 

Enter our friend, Mr. Evan Tishuk into our hickory nut story…

During a spring visit, Evan looked at our hickory tree and exclaimed, “Oh, wow, you have to let me know when your hickories are ripe! I have an old recipe for making a really good drink with hickory nuts.” He called the drink “hickory nut ambrosia.”

Yes, “ambrosia” refers to the go-to drink of the Greek gods. Our interest immediately piqued at Evan’s description. The Tyrant also liked the idea of summoning Zeus to show him a thing or two about being the boss of, well, everything.

With the onset of fall, our hickory nuts began to drop. The Tyrant and I collected some of the early nuts to have a go at making hickory nut ambrosia with some general guidance from Evan.

Hickory nut husk removed

It’s fairly easy to pull off the outer husk on a hickory nut. However, due to the extremely hard yet brittle shell, it’s very difficult to access and cleanly remove the nut meat inside.

We’re very glad we did, because hickory nut ambrosia is one incredibly tasty, unique beverage that also happens to be super easy to make. Yes, you use both the hickory nut shell and nutmeat, no separation required!

The Tyrant and I now have yet another delicious treat to look forward to from our forest garden each fall. If you have access to good hickory nuts and a hammer, you will too!

(In case you were wondering, Zeus was a no-show, which we attribute to his fear of The Tyrant.)

Two warnings about hickory nuts

1. Composting hickory nut husks, or not? 

Once the inside nut is removed, you can save the green or brown hickory husks for smoking meats or for composting.

There is a bit of a debate in the gardening community as to whether it’s a good idea to add hickory husks to your compost since they contain a small amount of juglone. Juglone is an organic compound (5 hydroxy-1, 4-napthoquinone) that can stunt or kill other plants.

Can you compost hickory nut hulls? While we save our hickory husks for smoked foods, our best guess is it’s perfectly fine to compost them as long as your compost isn’t just a giant pile of hickory nut husks and leaves. The concentration of juglone should be very small in your finished compost and would likely be broken down by microbes during the composting process. 

However, Purdue University Extension notes that there are high concentrations of juglone in the nut husks of trees that produce juglone, particularly black walnuts. If you’re worried about juglone in your compost damaging your garden plants, just dump your hickory husks back under your hickory trees rather than putting them in your compost pile. 

2. Not all hickory trees are the same.

As mentioned previously, not all hickory trees (or hickory nuts) are created equally.

Certain types of pignut and bitternut hickories are bitter-flavored to the point of inedibility. We’re fortunate to have a very tasty variety of red hickory (Carya Ovalis), growing in our yard.

Here’s a helpful Hickory ID Guide from Vanderbilt University that can help you determine what type of hickory tree you have. 

Are any hickory nuts poisonous? No hickory tree species in the US produce nuts poisonous to people. As mentioned above, some hickory subspecies produce nuts that taste bad, but they’re not poisonous. 

“Good” hickory trees will produce nuts with have a pecan-black walnut flavor profile.

How to make hickory nut ambrosia

The smell of hickory nut ambrosia as it’s brewing on your stove does indeed seem divine, and the taste is every bit as good as its nose.

Taste tip: After you’ve cooked and sifted your hickory nut ambrosia, it’s especially delicious if the following ingredients are added before serving:

  • a bit of whole organic milk (ideally grass-fed), and
  • a splash of real maple syrup.

The recipe below is slightly amended from the original version our friend Evan gave us, and you can amend our version of the recipe to your own tastes as you see fit.

Hickory nut ambrosia - a simple and delicious hickory nut recipe.

Warm hickory nut ambrosia with milk and maple syrup on a cold fall night.

Recipe: Hickory nut ambrosia, a warm fall drink 

Cracked hickory nuts
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Hickory nut ambrosia, an easy-to-make fall drink

Course: Drinks, Warm Beverage
Cuisine: American
Keyword: eating hickory nuts, hickory nut, hickory nut drink, hickory nut recipe
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings: 4 servings
Author: Aaron von Frank

A simple hickory nut recipe you can make without separating the nutmeat from the shell. You'll enjoy this seasonal drink each fall!

Ingredients

  • *2 cups crushed hickory nuts & hickory shells husks removed. (you can use however many cups of hickory nuts you want, just make sure to use 3 times as much water relative to the amount of hickories)
  • 6 cup Water
  • 1 cup organic grass milk
  • 4 Tb honey or pure maple syrup or add to taste

Instructions

  1. Using your hands or a dull knife, separate the outer husk from the inner shell (they should come off easily).

    hickory nut recipe - hickory nut ambrosia step 1
  2. Cut off a square piece of thick cardboard from an old box (2×2 size should be fine), then grab a hammer, and a bowl. Bring these 3 items + your hickory nuts to a flat hard outdoor surface (a concrete driveway is ideal, especially if you want your neighbors to think you’re nuts, pun intended). Place one hickory nut at a time on the cardboard, then fold the cardboard over so that it covers the nut (like a hickory nut cardboard sandwich). Smash each nut into smallish pieces with a hammer (you don’t have to pulverize them, quartered pieces is plenty small). Once you get the hang of doing one nut at a time, you can graduate to doing a few at a time to speed things up.

    Place the smashed hickory nut pieces—both the shell and nut pieces together—into your bowl (both the nutmeat and the shell go into your ambrosia). You’ll occasionally get a bad nut that is black inside, so make sure to look at each cracked nut before you add it to your “good nut” bowl. You might even find a small white worm (weevil) that you’ll probably want to remove as well. 

    hickory nut recipe step 2 - hickory nut ambrosia
  3. Take your bowl of hickory nuts and shell pieces and pour them into a measuring bowl. Whatever the quantity of your hickory nut pieces, you’ll need to have about 3 times more water than nuts in your simmering pot. So if you have 1 cup of hickory pieces, you’ll add 3 cups of water.

    hickory nut recipe - hickory nut ambrosia step 4
  4. Simmer your hickory nuts in a covered pot, stirring vigorously once every 10 minutes or so to help break apart the nuts and unlock more flavor. “Simmering” = a low-medium temperature setting on your stove that brings the mixture to just below boiling. After about 30+ minutes, remove the lid and simmer the hickories for 10-15 more minutes to help the flavors concentrate as the water evaporates. *We’ve removed the lid and simmered them for up to 2 additional hours and have found the ambrosia to be even richer/more flavorful than the 45 minute version. If you have the time, we suggest cooking longer for a more concentrated flavor.

  5. You’ll notice that a lot of the nut pieces will separate from the shell when you’re simmering your hickories. So, once you’re all done simmering your hickories (after 40-45 minutes), skim these little nuggets of goodness off of the surface with a spoon or ladle. Most of the flavor will already be drained out of these hickory nuggets, but they’re still good to add to oatmeal, pumpkin bread, or any number of other recipes. Now, pour your entire pot (hickory nuts, shells, and ambrosia) through a pasta colander, strainer, or cheese cloth. 

    hickory nut recipes - hickory nut ambrosia step 6
  6. Before serving, add milk and maple syrup, then stir to incorporate. Or let each person add milk and maple syrup to their cups according to their taste preferences.

    hickory nut ambrosia

We hope you enjoy hickory nut ambrosia with friends or family on a cool fall or winter night!

This is a delightful seasonal recipe that we look forward to each fall and we hope you will too.

4 Comments

  • Reply
    Richard
    November 26, 2022 at 2:35 pm

    I’ve found that if you boil the solids longer than 3 hours it gets increasingly bitter. The sweet spot seems to be between 2-3 hours.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      November 27, 2022 at 7:35 am

      Glad you enjoyed your hickory nut ambrosia, Richard, and thanks for the tip on duration sweet spot!

  • Reply
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    November 13, 2013 at 10:45 pm

    […] Hickory Nut Ambrosia Recipe […]

  • Reply
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    […] 1/2 cup water (or hickory ambrosia) […]

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Ducks

Introducing the “Quacker Box” duck coop – a birthday present worthy of The Tyrant

Charlie von Cat inspects the Quacker Box at Tyrant Farms

This is the story of the Quacker Box, the first duck house at Tyrant Farms. If you’re trying to figure out how to build a duck house for your backyard flock, you need to read this article! 


During the first week of September, many people around the world (or at least in our household) celebrate “Semana del Tirano.” In case you don’t know, Semana del Tirano is the birthweek festival honoring the beautiful, revered, and very tiny benevolent tyrant, Susan von Frank (the namesake of Tyrant Farms).

Susan let me know during the months leading up to her festival that she “had very big plans for me” during Semana del Tirano. She loves milking every drop of indulgence out of her birthweek that she can, and I admittedly derive a great deal of pleasure from pampering her. 

Our birthday and holiday gifts to each other tend to be a shared experience (like a trip) or co-creating something that we need and will use for a long time (like a new fruit tree in the garden).

A present for The Tyrant: a duck house

As you probably know, if it weren’t for deadlines and “last minutes,” 99% of everything would never get done. We knew that building a duck house was a big project, so we’d been putting it off…

We needed a deadline, so we made the birthweek of The Tyrant the deadline for when we’d have our first duck house built.   

Quacker Box Duck coop: Phase I design 

The Quacker Box started off as a two story monstrosity that was supposed to house our new kittens on the top level and our yet-to-be-acquired egg laying ducks on the bottom level. (Somebody recently abandoned two kittens in our yard, that we decided to adopt.)

In case you don’t know, many breeds of ducks lay large, delicious, nutrient-dense eggs. Ducks can also lay more eggs (and larger eggs) than chickens. (See our article ducks vs chickens for an in-depth comparison of the two species.)

Step 1: Design the duck house.  

The year was 2012, and backyard ducks were relatively unheard of at that time. So there weren’t many good ideas to be found on the internet about how to build a duck house for a backyard flock. 

That meant we were going to have to design a duck house from scratch. Thankfully, The Tyrant is a design whiz, so we were able to quickly whip up CAD designs for a duck house that would accommodate our ducks on the bottom and our cats on the top.  

Our Phase I duck house kitten house castle thingie plan that we rendered in CAD. (By "we" I mean Susan, and by "Susan" I mean The Tyrant.)

Our Phase I duck house kitten house castle thingie plan that we rendered in CAD. (By “we” I mean Susan, and by “Susan” I mean The Tyrant.)

Step 2: Get materials and build. 

After getting the materials necessary for our initial cat & duck house design, we started construction early on a Saturday morning. After nearly two full days of work, a lot of bickering, re-CADing, and the ingestion of more alcohol than we typically consume, we had constructed the shell of the beast.

It was so heavy that we could barely lift it, but we eventually managed to get it in place between two lettuce beds next to our house in the back yard. Then disaster struck.

As we removed the sawdust on the chop saw, we noticed that it was set a few degrees off from 90 degrees. Yes, ladies and gents, this means that we’d created our very own Leaning Duck Tower of Pisa in our back yard. We finished off the night with a spattering of profanity and a few more glasses of wine.

Bob and Oscar von Kitten (unimpressed) inspecting the Phase 1 kitten-duck house.

Bob and Oscar von Kitten (unimpressed) inspecting the Phase 1 kitten-duck house.

Phase 2: The birth of the Quacker Box, a duck house worthy of The Tyrant 

The failed Phase 1 duck house stayed there, untouched, for the next 6 weeks while we tried to ignore it. As Semana del Tirano approached, a new motivating wind blew into our sails. Thus began the planning of the Phase 2 duck house… 

Our morale was further boosted when we looked out the window during a bad rainstorm and noticed that the white clematis flowers on our fence were blooming in the shape of a duck. Quackleus, God of Ducks, was clearly giving us a sign of approval.

It’s a sign! We need to build a new duck house.

No two story, leaning, monstrosity would be built this time. We’d keep things simple: a very basic 3-walled structure, a simple shed roof and a run.

Yeah. Simple and easy.

The simple, humble beginnings of the Phase II Duck House, aka the "Quacker Box."

The simple, humble beginnings of the Phase II Duck House, aka the “Quacker Box.”

We deconstructed the Phase 1 beast, and hauled its skeleton into our garage to make sure the wood would stay dry throughout construction. For a few nights in a row, we’d head to the garage until 2-3am to work on Phase 2 construction.

After a lot of bickering, pad sketching, and (of course) wine drinking, the Quacker Box emerged just in time for the conclusion of Susan’s birthday festivities. Somehow, between concept and completion, the Quacker Box received a considerable design/build upgrade package.

The Tyrant joyfully approved of the final craftsman style Quacker Box (pictures and detailed duck house plans below).

The new Quacker Box duck house features:

  • wheels for moving around the yard (the wheels can be added and removed whenever necessary),
  • a green roof (we’ve planted strawberries, lettuce and herb seeds),
  • an attached wired duck run, and
  • a small flower box.

Quacker Box duck coop final images/design:

The Quacker Box - duck house, duck tractor, duck coop - via tyrantfarms.com

 click the picture above to open a larger version of the image 

Quacker Box duck house basic footprint:

click the image to view a printable pdf (opens in a new window)

basic footprint of the quacker box duck house at Tyrant Farms

Quacker Box duck house sketch of the house

click the image to view a printable pdf (opens in a new window)
A design sketch of the Quacker Box duck house at Tyrant Farms.

*As you can see in the image notes, the floor of our duck house has hardware cloth underneath it. However, we put pine shavings on top of the hardware cloth to prevent duck foot injuries. Prolonged exposure to concrete or wire can cause foot damage.   

Each night before we put our ducks up, we cover any poopy areas with a bit more pine shavings. Eventually, once the pine shavings get about 1′ deep, we dig them out and add them to compost, put them around our fruit trees, etc. 

Where we located our duck house at Tyrant Farms: 

Positioning our duck houses, duck coops at Tyrant Farms

Next step: getting ducks. 

Once we had our duck house all ready to go, it was time to get actual ducks!

What breed of duck did we choose? We got Welsh Harlequin ducks from Metzer Farms. Welsh Harlequins are a very social, friendly breed that are also good egg layers.  

white-duck-featured-image

Do you have your duck house ready to go? If so, here are next steps and articles you should read:

… and even more duck articles from Tyrant Farms!

We hope this article helps you build a safe, secure, and attractive duck house for your future flock! 

Update

Hey! We wanted to let you know that after 10+ years with our original two Quacker Boxes, we decided to upgrade to the duck coop of our dreams, affectionately named Waddle Inn. 

Waddle Inn, our new duck coop.

Waddle Inn, our new duck coop.

Want to come over to see a video tour, design tips, and step-by-step construction photos of the Waddle Inn duck coop? Hope to see you there!  


 
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27 Comments

  • Reply
    Anita
    February 5, 2023 at 2:30 pm

    Your duck house looking amazing! Is there a door to close up the opening between the house and run, or is this always open? Thanks for the info.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 6, 2023 at 12:45 pm

      Thanks for the duck house compliment! No, there isn’t a door between the laying area/coop and the open run area. The ducks go in and out as they please. However, no matter how cold or windy it is outside at night, they still prefer to be out in the open area for whatever reason. They do typically use the protected area to make a communal nest which they all lay eggs in, which makes egg collection easy in the morning.

  • Reply
    Vickie Ray Degand
    May 31, 2020 at 11:12 pm

    I may need to become a Tyrant so I can get a duck house on Victoria Day!! I noticed at the beginning of your post you were including an area for your kitty cats. But when you finished, I didn’t see a kitty area. So where do your little 4 pawed creatures reside?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      June 1, 2020 at 11:25 am

      That initial plan was abandoned and we ultimately ended up with the Quacker Box duck coop you see in the final images. One of our cats disappeared about 4 years ago (coyotes?) so we only have one now. Due to the destruction cats cause to wildlife, we’d prefer not to have any cats. However, since we decided to keep the kittens when someone dropped them off on our doorstep years ago, Bob the cat is ours until the day he crosses over to the great milk bowl.

      • Reply
        Vitalia
        May 9, 2023 at 2:21 am

        looks like you need to build a Catio next 😉 saves the wildlife and kitties are happy outside too! Thanks for sharing your design. I”m excited to get some ducks!

        • Aaron von Frank
          May 9, 2023 at 7:12 am

          Ha! Thanks, Vitalia. Best of luck as you get going with your ducks.

  • Reply
    Liane Cutforth
    April 17, 2020 at 7:14 pm

    HI, how large (just general measurements) would you make the coop for 6 ducks? What size are you thinking for your larger flock? Also, I’m curious how often you move it since you put wheels on it. Thanks again!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 23, 2020 at 12:53 pm

      Hi Liane! Sorry for our slow response. The general rule is 2-6 square feet of space per duck inside their coop/duck house, with some variance based on breed size. You could get away with 2-3′ per duck for Welsh Harlequins or Runners, but that would be too small for larger breeds like Pekins or Silver Appleyards. So for 6 small-medium sized ducks, you’d want a coop that had a MINIMUM interior square footage of 12′. Ideally, it could be more spacious.

      As far as moving our duck coops: even though they’re both mobile, we don’t move them at all anymore. That’s partly because our backyard is packed full of perennial plants so there’s nowhere else to move them, and also because our ducks associate that spot as their home for the night and we don’t want to change things up on them. Having a mobile coop does make cleaning and repairs easier, but it’s not essential.

  • Reply
    Winkyboy
    March 22, 2020 at 8:42 am

    This is made to house two ducks, right? – Dan

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 22, 2020 at 11:31 am

      We coop 5 ducks in there at night right now, but it would ideally be a little larger for that many ducks. We’re building a new coop for a larger flock soon. You can use this basic design and just scale it up depending on how many ducks you need to coop.

      • Reply
        Dan
        April 30, 2021 at 11:20 am

        Got it. I wound up… stumbling into building something similar. It was a 6′ x 10′ PVC-scraplumber-chicken wire daytime-only tractor. 🙂

        A question for you though: What did you use for the axel?

        • Aaron von Frank
          April 30, 2021 at 2:07 pm

          Due to the sheer number of large perennial fruit and nut trees in our back yard, our duck coops don’t move anymore because we’d have to cut down trees to move them. However, when they did move, we used wheels we got from Lowes which basically had small, sturdy ~10″ axels built into them. We drilled a hole through the foundation corners of our duck houses and pushed the individual wheel axels through, then added nuts & bolts to the other side to hold them in place while moving the duck coops. Does that make sense and answer your question?

  • Reply
    Rob Maitland
    March 17, 2020 at 4:16 pm

    I have two Pekin ducks that spend their day on the pond but do not want to come into their quack house. How do you make them want to spend the night in their coop?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 18, 2020 at 5:37 pm

      Hi Rob! Somewhat depends on how tame they are and what your relationship is with them. Ducks herd really well with sticks if they’re accustomed to you being around them – it seems to be somewhat hard-wired into the brains of domesticated ducks. Any time we want to get our ducks to go in a certain direction, we just use a long thin stick to herd them that direction. You could set up temporary fencing that funneled them into their duck house at first. However, if your ducks don’t let you anywhere near them, this approach might not work. Treats help too – putting a bowl of water with greens in it + bowl of food in the coop will get them to start making a positive association with it.

      More than anything, it’s important to realize that ducks like a routine. It might be hard getting them to go into their coop at night at first, but once that’s what they’re accustomed to doing, it will be a piece of cake. After 7 years, we *still* have to heard our ducks in at night (unlike chickens which put themselves up), probably because the nightly routine they’re used to is their humans telling them when it’s time for bed, otherwise they stay out drinking [water] and partying. And probably because they also enjoy seeing us have to work for it. 😛

  • Reply
    Noah Ribaric
    April 14, 2018 at 11:40 pm

    Hi! Have the plans been made available for download/purchase?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 17, 2018 at 3:35 pm

      Hi Noah! Unfortunately, we never converted the duck house to a plan that people could use as a blueprint and materials list. Hopefully, there’s enough info in the article to make it somewhat easy for you to replicate if you’d like. Feel free to ask us any specific questions as you get going if we can be of help.

  • Reply
    mdietlin
    May 4, 2015 at 12:56 pm

    Hello- do you think the size of the tractor (Quacker House #1) is large enough to house 4 welsh harlequin hens? It seems to be about the same size as the coop I have (tractor style), and I am just two weeks into ducklings and concerned it will be too small.

  • Reply
    Farrah
    April 10, 2015 at 10:52 am

    We just got our 1st ducklings and I LOVE the design of your Quacker Box. I’m going to try and get my husband to build one just like it—I hope you don’t mind us emailing you if we have questions about your design. Thanks for the great pictures.

  • Reply
    cleverglove
    April 3, 2015 at 1:10 pm

    I love your design I’m looking to make something similar for my ducks.

    How long is the quacker box? 9 feet?

    Thank you.

  • Reply
    crcolas
    September 10, 2013 at 11:55 am

    I think the images of the CAD and the house are no longer available. is there any way you can email them to me? I am considering this as a possible project for the local farm where I volunteer at 🙂

    • Reply
      Susan
      September 10, 2013 at 12:18 pm

      We just got the photos properly inserted back into the blog post. Sorry about that! The only CAD we currently have is the original version of the house that we ended up taking apart (see image about half way up in the post). We actually ended improvising most of the final house and never got it into CAD. It’s been on our ever-growing to-do list for over a year now, but we’ve just never gotten around to it. Take a look at the bottom image (with multiple angles of the house) and see if that helps you? If you have any questions about the design/construction, we’d certainly be happy to help you. Email: aaron at tyrantfarms dot com. Thanks!

      • Reply
        crcolas
        September 10, 2013 at 9:41 pm

        Thank you so much! I am so glad I found you guys! I’m currently working on a project for my local town farm to get 4 Welsh Harlequins, I actually have 6 at home. It won’t be until spring though, and I can’t wait to see your next update on your ducks! One question though: Can this comfortably fit all four of your ducks? Thanks!
        -Charlie

  • Reply
    Welsh Harlequin Ducklings - Tyrant Farms
    June 17, 2013 at 2:01 pm

    […] Quacker Box is glad to finally have inhabitants. We’re still a few months off from eggs, but we’re […]

  • Reply
    Bonnie Bigelow
    March 12, 2013 at 1:04 pm

    LOVELY IDEA, SO GLAD YOU DID ALL THE DESIGN WORK FOR ME, CAN’T TELL YOU HOW MUCH IT IS APPRECIATED, IT’S JUST WHAT I’VE BEEN LOOKING FOR. GOING TO PRINT THIS & HAVE MY GRANDSON BUILD ME ONE. Ducks will be good for my garden. Thought about chickens first, but will eat eggs either way. Thanks so much for this.

  • Reply
    Aaron
    October 2, 2012 at 4:56 pm

    Quack back atcha Steve! We think a duckhouse and a few duck hens would make a fine addition to the Keye’s backyard. Just be sure to check with Becky and those pesky neighbors of yours first. 😉

  • Reply
    Steve Keyes
    October 2, 2012 at 4:18 pm

    Wow… love this! You guys are amazing! Quack!!!

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Foraged Gardening Recipes

Recipe: Pawpaw passionfruit sorbet (made with native N. American fruit)

Recipe: Pawpaw passionfruit sorbet (made with native N. American fruit) thumbnail

Find out how to make pawpaw passionfruit sorbet using two delicious fruits native to North America: Asimina triloba and Passiflora incarnata. 


We’ll get to the details of this amazing pawpaw passionfruit sorbet recipe in a moment, but first we’d like to share some thoughts…

One of the many reasons we love gardening and foraging is because of the new culinary adventures it affords us. In our garden and surrounding forests, each month and season brings forth new and interesting foods, most of which we’d never be able to find at grocery stores.

Chicken of the woods, indigo milk caps, and king stropharia mushrooms; hickory nuts and acorn flourheirloom watermelonsground cherries and garden huckleberries; unusual varieties of citrus... By growing and foraging many of the foods we eat, we get exercise, ecological education, and meals unrivaled by any local restaurant.

Two other delicious and native seasonal treats we look forward to in late summer each year: pawpaws and passionfruit

Pawpaw: America’s forgotten fruit

About a decade ago, one of our friends told us about a native fruit that looked like a mango and tasted like mango-banana-cream. It was supposedly called a “pawpaw” and it was the largest native edible fruit in North America.

What? How could this be true? Surely, we’d have known about this magical fruit or encountered it on a hike. It must be a folk legend, like Big Foot or Lizard Man.

As it turns out, the legend is in fact real. Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) exist, they can be the size of mangoes, and their taste is amazing. What do pawpaws taste like? Mango banana custard – yes, the legend had that part right too.

Once we knew what pawpaw trees looked like, we realized we had in fact seen them in the wild. The trees are abundant in the low lying flood plains at our favorite morel mushroom foraging spots, and we see them blooming in March when we’re out foraging morels.

We don’t go back to those spots in late summer when pawpaws are actually producing fruit since morels are long-since gone. However, now that we know pawpaws grow there, well…

Pawpaw development by season in our area. Left: flowers form in March. Center: fruit set happens in April with each flower potentially producing a cluster of fruit. Right: a cluster of unripe but developing fruit in early June.

Pawpaw development by month in our area. Left: flowers form in March. Center: fruit set happens in April with each flower potentially producing a cluster of fruit. Right: a cluster of unripe but nicely developing fruit in early June.

Growing, harvesting, and processing pawpaws 

After tasting our first pawpaws years back, we decided we had to incorporate these native wonders into our forest garden. We now have about ten pawpaw trees growing.

Perfectly ripened pawpaws just collected from the ground under our trees. When ripe, their skin has a wonderful, sweet fragrance. It's best not to pick them from the tree, but to collect them from the ground under the trees - they fall off when ripe.

Perfectly ripened pawpaws just collected from the ground under our trees – the fruit falls off the tree when ripe (or comes off with a gentle shake). They also have a wonderful, sweet fragrance when ripe.

The skin of pawpaw fruit is slightly bitter and much thinner than mango skin. To remove the fresh fruit, cut it in half and use the skin as a bowl, scooping out the soft flesh by the spoonful. The large seeds are very easy to separate from the flesh. (Use those seeds to grow more pawpaw trees!)

To take a deeper dive into growing and processing pawpaw fruit, be sure to also read:

Pawpaw passionfruit sorbet: a summer dessert like no other 

Other than eating pawpaws fresh, you cam make them into breads, puddings, popsicles, adult beverages, smoothies… experiment as you see fit.

We recently had friends over for dinner and made our pawpaws into an unforgettable summer dessert: pawpaw passionfruit sorbet. We also have an abundance of delicious native passionfruit (Passiflora incarnata) growing in our forest garden, and their fruit begins ripening in late summer at the same time as pawpaws. 

We thought the tangy flavor of passionfruit would round out the sweet custardy flavor of pawpaws, thus this pawpaw passionfruit sorbet recipe was born!

Mmm! The tangy deliciousness of our native passionfruit makes an excellent addition to pawpaw sorbet.

Mmm! The tangy deliciousness of our native passionfruit makes an excellent addition to pawpaw sorbet.

We also picked a fresh variegated lemon from one of our citrus trees and made a simple syrup from our makrut lime leaves to add more citrusy punch, but you don’t have to have fresh lemons of makrut lime leaves to make this recipe. We’ll provide common alternatives in the recipe below. 

We grow lots of citrus in pots since it can't survive in our Ag zone unprotected in the winter. One interesting variety is Makrut lime, whose leaves are a popular flavoring in various Asian cuisines. The fruit has the most intense flavor of any citrus we've ever tried.

We grow citrus trees in pots since it can’t survive in our Ag zone unprotected in the winter. Makrut lime leaves are a popular flavoring in various Asian cuisines and the fruit has the most intense flavor of any citrus we’ve ever tried.

The final sorbet was quite a hit and demands for public publication soon followed. We dare not let our friends (or you) down, so here’s our pawpaw passionfruit sorbet recipe for all to enjoy! 

Recipe: Tyrant Farms pawpaw passionfruit sorbet

Recipe: pawpaw passionfruit sorbet / dessert sorbet recipe made using pawpaw fruit (Asimina triloba) and native passionfruit (Passiflora incarnata)

PAWPAW RECIPE: PAWPAW PASSIONFRUIT SORBET
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Pawpaw passionfruit sorbet

Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Asimina triloba, passiflora incarnata, passionfruit recipe, passionfruit sorbet, pawpaw dessert, pawpaw sorbet
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
Servings: 4
Author: Aaron von Frank

Pawpaw passionfruit sorbet is a delicious seasonal dessert made from native fruit: pawpaws (Asimina triloba) and passionfruit (Passiflora incarnata).

Ingredients

  • 1.5 cup pawpaw pulp no seeds
  • 4 ripe passionfruits (to be made into passionfruit simple syrup)
  • 1 lemon
  • 3 makrut lime leaves (to be made into makrut lime leaf simple syrup) alternative: 1 heaping teaspoon fresh lemon zest - Meyer lemons or Buddha's hand citron are best for zest
  • 1/2 cup organic cane sugar
  • 1/2 cup water

Instructions

  1. Separate seeds and remove flesh from enough pawpaws to make 1 cup of fruit pulp. Put pulp in fridge to chill.

  2. Remove outer skin from ripe passionfruit and place seeds in saucepan with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup cane sugar. Cook on medium low heat (not boiling) for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, strain seeds, and place in fridge or ice bath until chilled. *Also note that if your pawpaw pulp is chunky, you can pour your finished passionfruit mixture into the pawpaw pulp and blend it with an emersion blender or food processor before chilling it in the fridge.

  3. To make the makrut lime leaf simple syrup: dice three fresh leaves from a makrut lime tree (also called "kefir" limes, but that's a culturally offensive term). Place in saucepan with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup cane sugar. Cook on medium low heat for about 15 minutes (not boiling), stirring occasionally, Remove from heat, strain leaves, and place in fridge or ice bath until chilled. If you don't have makrut lime leaves, use a heaping teaspoon of lemon zest to make a simple syrup with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup cane sugar.

  4. Juice one lemon, then chill in fridge.
  5. Once all ingredients are chilled, stir together in mixing bowl (or stir them all together before chilling). Use food processor or emersion blender to get smooth, uniform consistency.

  6. Add ingredients to Cuisinart sorbet/ice cream maker, and let the sorbet come together for 20-30 minutes, or until ideal sorbet consistency achieved. (Exact time may vary by volume made and type of sorbet maker used.) Serve immediately once the desired consistency has been reached, or store in freezer and serve whenever you're ready.

We hope you love this seasonal sorbet recipe made from native fruit as much as we do!

KIGI,

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    Recipes

    Recipe: Tyrant Farms’ ground cherry preserves

    Recipe: Tyrant Farms' ground cherry preserves thumbnail

    We know what you’re thinking: “ground cherry preserves? I eat ALL my ground cherries the second they drop on the ground!”

    In case you've never heard of them, these are ground cherries (Physalis pruinosa). These little physalis fruits made us fall in love with heirloom seeds year ago. Their husks turn brown and they fall to the ground when ripe. The husks are pulled back in this image, and should be removed entirely before eating.

    In case you’ve never heard of them, these are ground cherries (Physalis pruinosa). These little physalis fruits made us fall in love with heirloom seeds year ago. Their husks turn brown and they fall to the ground when ripe. The husks are pulled back in this image, and should be removed entirely before eating.

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    13 Comments

    • Reply
      mj
      August 12, 2022 at 5:32 pm

      This recipe for ground cherries preserves is delicious! I especially like that the recipe size can be changed, depending on the quantity of ground cherries available. I did downsize the recipe because we did not have 5 lbs 6 oz of ground cherries. I think there might be a glitch in this feature, because whenI used this feature to reduce the quantity of 1/2 cups – each quantity of ground cherries has 6 oz. in it. For example to make seven 1/2 cups, the quantity of ground cherries listed is “4.38 lbs 6 oz fresh ground cherries.” Four 1/2 cups calls for 2.5 lbs 6 oz fresh ground cherries. Also as the recipe size is adjusted the quantity of water in the ingredient list changes HOWEVER step #1 of the recipe instructs “..then add 1/2 cup water…” It should instead say ‘then add water’ and the appropriate amount of water can be added from the ingredient list, depending on the quantity of preserves made. These recipe fixes may increase reader’s success with these preserves.
      Thanks again for a very flavorful recipe! I will definitely make this again.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 14, 2022 at 7:51 am

        Thanks MJ, and glad you loved these ground preserves as much as we do! Thanks also for the tips on reducing the recipe amounts.

    • Reply
      Steve
      August 1, 2022 at 5:19 pm

      love the recipe, I hadn’t considered brandy and vanilla.

      I do have to mention that the unripe green berries (and husks) contain solanine and other solanidine alkaloids, which cab be lethal – be sure to only eat the ripe ones!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 2, 2022 at 7:50 am

        Thanks, Steve! Yes, the flavors of brandy and vanilla seem to pair perfectly with cooked ground cherries. Glad you enjoyed this recipe! And, no, people definitely should not eat unripe green ground cherries. Thankfully, they don’t taste good at that point anyway so there’s not much incentive.

    • Reply
      Nancy Woodrow
      August 27, 2021 at 11:46 am

      what kind of pectin did you use…theres powdered, liquid, etc.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 27, 2021 at 1:01 pm

        Sorry for any confusion, Nancy. We used pectin powder.

    • Reply
      Mary Reetz
      May 22, 2021 at 10:01 am

      I used to live with an elderly lady who canned ground cherries (which I just love) but they would stay whole, tDo you have any advice on how to can cherries and keep the whole? I would really appreciate it!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        May 22, 2021 at 10:18 am

        That’s really interesting! Not sure how you can cook (or even ferment) ground cherries or any other fruit without the fruit popping and the juices coming out. When you say the fruit was whole, do you mean it was chunky like a preserve or do you mean it was 100% intact?

    • Reply
      Colleen
      September 22, 2020 at 3:18 pm

      Sadly this didn’t set at all for me.
      I feel like I wasted 5.6 pounds of fruit.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        September 25, 2020 at 5:36 pm

        Oh, no! So sorry to hear this Colleen. Can you help us figure out what went wrong to avoid any future negative outcomes? Couple questions:
        1) Did you cook the ingredients down for an hour as the instructions suggest? That really cooks out a lot of the water and thickens up the preserves even without the pectin and sugar added.
        2) Did you add the pectin then boil then add the sugar? Sometimes people add the sugar before the pectin or add them at the same time, which can cause it not to set properly. We’ve tried to really clarify that point in the instructions.

        Lastly, if your preserves are too runny for your preferences, don’t give up! When we’ve accidentally made runny preserves or jams in the past, we’ve been able to “save” them using this method: https://foodinjars.com/blog/canning-101-how-to-save-runny-jam/.

    • Reply
      Ruth
      September 22, 2020 at 12:18 pm

      Hi! Could you substitute the sugar for honey. We follow a paleo diet so we don’t use sugar. Thanks!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        September 24, 2020 at 11:35 am

        Hi Ruth! We’ve never made preserves with honey so can’t say for certain. I will say that from what I’ve read in various research, there’s virtually no difference with how your body processes honey vs cane sugar. Neither is terribly good for you, so should be used in small amounts. Raw honey does have some unique health benefits, but cooking could diminish/degrade those. One possibility is to go sugar or honey-free and just add something like stevia instead, but you’d need to cook the ingredients way down to thicken them or use some other setting agent that doesn’t require sugar to work.

    • Reply
      susan von frank
      August 23, 2018 at 1:09 pm

      Hi Sarah! They’re Physalis pruinosa. They are a native plant, but we’ve never actually seen them growing in the wild where we live in Upstate South Carolina. There are plenty of native night shades that are poisonous, so do be very careful with what you eat and make 100% certain you’ve properly ID’d it.

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    Gardening

    What percent of a tomato is water?

    What percent of a tomato is water? thumbnail

    Ever wonder what percent of a tomato is water? So have we!

    As we’ve written about before in this recipe, we dehydrate lots of tomatoes each summer to use as sun-dried tomatoes throughout the year. Our favorite way to use dried tomatoes is on homemade wood-fired pizzas in our cob oven.

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      Recipes

      Recipe: Black truffle popped quinoa

      Recipe: Black truffle popped quinoa thumbnail

      This popped quinoa recipe is savory and delicious! It’s also loaded with protein, dietary fiber, healthy fats, and vitamins.


      For some odd reason, our parents have the impression that we like good food. We have no idea why. 🙂

      Thus, whenever a birthday or holiday rolls around, the majority of the presents we get are edible. For instance, at Christmas, we were gifted a 5 pound bag of organic Royal White quinoa from Food to Live By. We liked it so much, we’ve since bought several more bags.

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        Gardening Recipes

        Recipe: Green tomato marmalade with smoked paprika & brandy

        Recipe: Green tomato marmalade with smoked paprika & brandy thumbnail

        This green tomato marmalade recipe is one of the most delicious summer recipes we make. The result is thick, sweet and smoky preserves that are versatile – and absolutely AMAZING served as an appetizer atop a creamy cheese (like brie) and crackers.


         

        Mmm! Green tomato marmalade atop manchego cheese and crackers. Recipe made from unripe green tomatoes.

        Mmm! Green tomato marmalade atop manchego cheese and crackers.

         

        Everybody knows that when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. But what do you do when life gives you unripe, green tomatoes?

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        25 Comments

        • Reply
          Sandy
          August 10, 2024 at 11:22 pm

          This marmalade is so delicious! I made some last season. I have a bag of frozen whole green tomatoes – do you think these would work in the recipe? They will likely release their water once thawed.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            August 12, 2024 at 6:46 am

            Thanks Sandy! As for whether or not frozen green tomatoes would work in this green tomato marmalade, our guess is yes… But maybe not quite as well as unfrozen green tomatoes? If you try, do you mind checking back in to let us know how yours turns out? Thank you!

            • Reply
              Sandy
              August 18, 2024 at 8:50 pm

              Hello!
              I made the jam with my frozen tomatoes over the weekend and it turned out good. But, had I never made it last season and tasted how delicious the original was, I would never know what I was missing. The original recipe had a better color and consistency using fresh green tomatoes. I’ll always use the fresh tomatoes going forward. Thanks for your feedback and for developing such an amazing jam recipe!

              • Aaron von Frank
                August 19, 2024 at 1:42 pm

                Thanks for your feedback, Sandy! Thanks also for letting us (and other readers) know that using frozen green tomatoes doesn’t produce quite as good a final marmalade/jam as using fresh green tomatoes. Next year, we hope you make a batch as good as you remember using fresh green tomatoes!

        • Reply
          Clem
          December 14, 2023 at 3:32 pm

          Greeting from Australia. First time tomato grower and this looks like a great idea for my excess green tomatoes for a bulk batch Christmas gift. Quick clarification …do you include the orange peel or just the fruit/pulp..or both?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            December 15, 2023 at 3:43 pm

            Hi Clem! Sorry for any confusion. In the recipe card instructions, we state “keep skin remove seeds sliced as thinly as possible, ideally with a mandolin.” By “skin” we mean peel. So other than removing the seeds, you’ll be using the whole orange, peels and all. Enjoy!

        • Reply
          Tawnia
          October 16, 2023 at 9:43 pm

          I stumbled across your recipe searching for ways to use green tomatoes. I was intrigued so ran with it. I’m so happy I did. This is Amazing! It’s a simple recipe with minimal hands on work. It’s sweet, tangy, smokey with a touch of spiciness due to an ingredient change. I only had hot smoked paprika so used one tablespoon then used ancho Chile powder for the second tablespoon. I also substituted spiced rum for the brandy as I didn’t have brandy on hand.

          Thank you for taking the time to develop the recipe and for sharing. This will be made every year!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 19, 2023 at 11:20 am

            Wonderful, thanks Tawnia! Glad you’re enjoying green tomato marmalade as much as we do. Thanks also for the ingredient substitution tips in case other people want to make a spicy version.

        • Reply
          Trina
          October 8, 2023 at 8:16 pm

          How did you get your color so brown? Mine is still green.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 9, 2023 at 6:12 am

            We cook our green tomato marmalade down for a long time until it’s super concentrated and thick.

        • Reply
          Lorna
          September 14, 2023 at 8:37 pm

          watery and not like a marmalade.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            September 15, 2023 at 11:07 am

            Sorry, Lorna. This is a recipe we make almost every year and it’s always a big hit with our family and friends. As mentioned in the article, the key to the recipe turning out well (and not watery) is to cook it waaaay down — probably by about 75% volume — for several hours. Then it’s very thick and the flavors are incredibly concentrated. Perhaps you could try putting yours back on the stove to reduce it down further?

        • Reply
          Julie Wychor
          October 17, 2022 at 11:16 am

          This recipe is going to be a new favorite, it’s unique and delicious! I was excited to find a new way to use up my excess green tomatoes, and the flavor combination really intrigued me. It used a lot of them up, plus it was an easy recipe. I got 13 jelly jars full and plan on giving some as gifts. It’s a keeper!!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 17, 2022 at 11:51 am

            Thanks and glad you loved our green tomato marmalade recipe, Julie! Hope your family and gift recipients love it, too. 🙂

        • Reply
          Ann Marie Ziskovsky
          October 28, 2021 at 3:11 pm

          I’m not a bourbon or brandy drinker. Can you give a suggestion on a Brand name to use? Also, do you core your tomatoes? I am getting ready to pick everything left in my garden, and know that I will be making at least one batch of this recipe.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 28, 2021 at 3:19 pm

            Hi Ann! You don’t have to get anything too fancy for this recipe. A basic brandy like Paul Masson will be fine. Yes, you’ll want to remove any tough or woody parts of the tomato before making this recipe. Best of luck and please let us know how your green tomato marmalade turns out!

            • Reply
              ANN M ZISKOVSKY
              October 31, 2021 at 4:17 pm

              I made a triple batch of this the other night. I didn’t have the organic cane sugar so I used brown sugar instead, but oh my! I liked the taste before it was done, but today I made a regular old grilled cheese sandwich on sourdough bread with it and it was excellent. I’m anxious to try a few other cheeses in a sandwich too. I have a ton of green tomatoes left and I will definitely be making more of this to use myself and to share with family as gifts.

              • Aaron von Frank
                October 31, 2021 at 5:23 pm

                Wonderful! Glad your green tomato marmalade turned out well, Ann. Thanks also for sharing your version with brown sugar. Yes, this recipe makes great gifts – we get requests every year! Don’t share it with too many people or you might have to make an even bigger batch next year. 😛

        • Reply
          Madeline
          October 24, 2021 at 8:00 am

          Is this recipe developed for pint or 1/2 pint canning? In the pictures you have it in pints, and the amount made is in pints, but the directions say 1/2 pint in the end. If it’s safe, I’d like to can it in pints.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 24, 2021 at 12:50 pm

            Hi Madeline! Sorry for any confusion. We actually used a combination of half pint and pint jars. Given that the ingredients are all high acid (tomatoes, oranges, lemon juice, citric acid), this is about as safe as canning recipes come. Caveat: we don’t have lab equipment in our kitchen necessary to test pH and internal canning temps, and there’s always a safety risk involved when using a water bath vs a pressure canner. That said, you could use either half pint or pint jars for this recipe. If using larger jars, go a little longer on your water bath (assuming you’re not using a pressure canner), say ~20 minutes rather than 15 minutes. Another option if you’re doing a small batch: refrigerate rather than canning it. Or you could always freeze it in straight-sided jars (NOT shouldered jars). Hope this helps and also hope you love this recipe as much as we do. 🙂

        • Reply
          Lisa
          October 22, 2021 at 9:00 pm

          This will be my third year turning my green tomatoes into your marmalade. It was a popular option offered by the grilled cheese station at our son’s wedding reception this summer.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 23, 2021 at 12:53 pm

            Wonderful to hear, thanks Lisa! Glad to hear you also discovered the pairing of green tomato marmalade with grilled cheese – one of our faves as well. 🙂

        • Reply
          Nan
          August 22, 2021 at 6:26 pm

          This looks fabulous. I can’t wait to make it. Thank you especially for listing produce by weight. That is most helpful. Cheers!

        • Reply
          Angela
          September 21, 2020 at 7:43 am

          Is it Bourbon or brandy in this recipe?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            September 24, 2020 at 11:28 am

            Hi Angela! We used brandy – sorry about the confusion as we just noticed the recipe card ingredient said bourbon. But to be fair, either would work.

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        Gardening

        How to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard

        How to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard thumbnail

        Trying to figure out how to prevent or safely kill mosquitoes in your yard without using dangerous synthetic chemicals that harm wildlife or people? This article will help!   


        How to safely kill mosquitoes without synthetic pesticides and sprays

        Do you want to have a safe, healthy, mosquito-free yard and neighborhood? 

        We set out to figure out how to make that possible, looking at the best available research. We’ve also put that information to work effectively in our own yard, and have recruited our neighbors to be part of the solution. 

        The results? We can walk out in our yard on hot, humid summer mornings and evenings without being covered in mosquitoes like we used to be.  

        Want to get the same results? Follow the steps in the flier (below), then print and share them with your neighbors!

        The more people in your neighborhood who participate, the better the results will be. After all, mosquitoes don’t recognize property boundaries or your neighbor’s fence. 

        Informational flyer

        Here’s a quick visualization showing the basic information you need to know and do to safely control the mosquito populations in your yard: 

        A helpful flier with the basic information you need to know to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard. Share with your neighbors for even less mosquitoes! Note: Right click the image if you want to save / download it.

        A helpful flier with the basic information you need to know to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard. Share with your neighbors for even less mosquitoes! Note: Right click the image if you want to save / download it.

        Read the full article below for details, references, and helpful mosquito facts!

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        2 Comments

        • Reply
          Robyn
          April 3, 2021 at 8:28 am

          I’ve never heard this before! Does it have to be a 5 gal bucket? Would a 1 gal bucket work? How many buckets for an acre, guessing?

          The catnip article was great too! Where can we get this “Meowee- Wowee” variety? Thanks Aaron.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 3, 2021 at 9:05 am

            Hi Robyn! No, it doesn’t have to be a 5- or 1-gallon bucket of water. You can go much smaller, but you may have to refill if it’s really hot and dry. That’s why we use larger buckets in the summer when we tend to have dry spells – I don’t want to have to remember to go around and refill the buckets. I also assume (perhaps incorrectly) that a larger bucket of water might be more attractive to breeding mosquitoes than a smaller one, and the aim is to make the bT buckets as attractive as possible for female mosquitoes in search of a spot to lay their eggs. As far as how many bT buckets per acre: that’s really hard to answer since each species of mosquito has different flight ranges. When in doubt, consider doing more bT buckets than you think you need, especially if: a) you have bad mosquito problems, and b) you have lots of shady, damp areas where mosquitos are likely to breed or hang out.

            Glad you enjoyed the catnip-mosquito repellent article! (Linked here for anyone else dropping by: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/from-the-scientists-how-to-use-catnip-as-a-mosquito-repellent/). ‘Meowie Wowie’ catnip is the joke name we gave to mom’s plant due to its potency, but as far as I know, it’s not an actual named, commercially available catnip variety. (Perhaps we should start saving seeds from our plants.) We did provide a link in that article where you can buy quality catnip seeds.

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        Gardening

        We’ve been busy, how about you?

        We've been busy, how about you? thumbnail

        Hello again! Sorry we haven’t written in a while.

        Unlike most of our articles where we share something educational/instructional, this article is simply an apology for our long absence. We’ve got a lot going on right now, so it’s been tough making the time to write good articles here on Tyrant Farms.

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          Gardening

          Garden hygiene: response to a question from Joan Axthelm

          Garden hygiene: response to a question from Joan Axthelm thumbnail

          Joan Axthelm asked us the following question related to garden hygiene:

          You asked for questions to answer in your writings (which I adore) and I know that this will be the first of many to come: With Farm Fresh produce and eggs: what do you look for regarding contaminants and what steps do you take (how..) to make sure your food is safe to eat? I am asking because of all the E. coli in the greens and salmonella on the eggs stories that are out there. How do you insure – in your home – that the foodstuffs you eat from your farm or others are clean and safe to eat?

          Great questions, Joan!

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            Ducks

            Part II: How to Build a Backyard Pond with DIY Biofilter

            Questions answered about our DIY backyard pond thumbnail

            Last year, we wrote a DIY backyard pond article that has become quite popular. We built the pond for our backyard ducks, but the concept could be used to build a backyard pond for anyone. In fact, it would be way easier to have a pond without a flock of ducks constantly in it, molting feathers and, er, using it as a giant toilet.

            Our DIY backyard pond on a cold winter day.

            Our DIY backyard pond on a cold winter day. You can get step-by-step instructions which include a detailed materials list here.

            A recent commenter on that article, “smithmal,” asked some great follow-up questions about our backyard pond system. Rather than try to answer all of their questions in the comments, we decided to break out the answers into their own article.

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            35 Comments

            • Reply
              Brigette
              June 8, 2023 at 4:18 pm

              Thank you so much!!!’
              I have two geese and am trying to convince my son to build them a pond. This will be so helpful. Cross your fingers for me!

              • Reply
                Susan von Frank
                June 10, 2023 at 6:49 am

                Fingers crossed – good luck with your goose pond!

            • Reply
              April aka "Duck Mom"
              February 22, 2023 at 8:12 am

              I’m so impressed by all of this…WOW. Any thoughts on a fountain. I’m looking the the Laguna pumps and they make a model w/ a fountain. Would you ever consider this or have any thoughts on if the ducks would like it? Would it help at all with aerating/oxygenating?

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                February 22, 2023 at 11:04 am

                Hi and thanks, April! I don’t think the Laguna pump with a fountain was available when we made our pond, but that does sound interesting. Yes, a fountain would help with aeration. However, potential downsides: 1) I’m not sure how much water loss it would cause due to evaporation in the summer. 2) I’m also not sure how sensitive the intake would be to debris (feathers, leaves, etc), which could be a pain if you have to regularly clean it out. Since we haven’t tried this type of pump ourselves, we can’t really provide a recommendation one way or another. If you do give it a try, please report back to let us know how it works!

            • Reply
              Willow
              February 18, 2023 at 10:37 pm

              I have geese, but they sound very similar! I wish I had seen your article last year before we wasted so much money. One issue I didn’t see addressed… our geese managed to nearly chew through the heavy duty pump cord before we caught it in the nick of time. We wanted to add a bubbler to aerate (mosquito problem) but we know they will just eat that and the cord too! We are thinking of placing the pump in a container outside of the pond, connected to a drain at the bottom of the pond. We are hoping that not only will they leave the cord alone, but it may be easier to access for cleaning. Can you see any reason that may not work? Any thoughts on hiding aerators and the attached cords from these precious cord eating creatures?

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                February 20, 2023 at 2:22 pm

                Oh no! I’ve forgotten how much geese love to chew through things like cords. That could be a really problem with a hot wire. Yikes! Thankfully, our ducks have no interest in our backyard pond cords, nor would their bite be powerful enough to chew through them.

                Ok, so you’ve got two possible solutions, as you’ve outlined: Option 1) Protect the cords, or Option 2) Reconfigure things to make the cords inaccessible. Thinking about our setup, I’d be nervous doing a drain at the bottom of the pond due to potential clogs and access issues if it were located there. You could build some sort of elevated pond with steps and a platform, but that seems like a lot of extra work. Instead, I’d advise trying to figure out a solution under option 1 wherein you protect the cords from your geese. For instance, you could run thin PVC lines then run the wire inside it (black PVC if you want to hide it or make it more aesthetically pleasing). You wouldn’t need to worry about gluing the joints together so you could quickly take it apart if needed.

                There are probably other solutions, but that’s the first thing that comes to mind. Hope this helps and best of luck!

            • Reply
              H
              August 11, 2021 at 2:43 pm

              This is super helpful! We are in the process of designing a pond, modeled after your instructions. Thank you so much. One quick question – how are the wood chips holding up? Have you found any issues with bumblefoot? Also, do you just rake the woodchips/leaves clean every so often or does the natural ecosystem you have created just kick in? Thank you again for all of your help. Love this!!!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                August 12, 2021 at 1:22 pm

                Our ducks do get bumblefoot on occasion, but: 1) they usually heal on their own without intervention required, and 2) they do a lot of foraging throughout other areas of our yard, so it’s hard to say exactly where the initial cut/scrape happened and/or whether it was caused by mulch. One thing we’ve started doing over the past few years is getting “triple ground” mulch, which is more expensive but very finely chopped. If you walk on it barefoot, it’s quite comfortable, so we assume the same is true for flippered feet.

                As far as how the wood chips/mulch work around our duck pond, the answer is great! They’re almost all carbon and duck poop is high in nitrogen, so the two are well-matched for making rich soil. The mulch does a wonderful job of absorbing duck poo, so there’s never any foul (or fowl) smells around our pond. It also keeps the area from getting muddy and mucky, which drastically reduces the likelihood of parasites and pathogens.

                About once per year (usually in the early spring), we apply a new 3-6″ layer of triple ground mulch to the area, and that breaks down into perfect garden-quality soil by the following spring, e.g. it lasts about one year. As the mulch decomposes, the volume decreases substantially so you can just top up with new mulch without it spilling over into your pool if you want to. However, we like to dig out that soil and use it like compost around our fruit and nut trees, garden beds, etc.

                Hope this helps!

            • Reply
              Kerensa
              July 21, 2021 at 6:06 pm

              Wonderful information!! Do you ever have an issue with algae? We are battling a bloom in our lined pond and curious what you use to combat green algae that is safe for ducks. Thanks!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                July 23, 2021 at 7:16 am

                Hi Kerensa! High nitrogen and nutrient levels (caused by duck poo) cause algae blooms, which makes the water turn green. The cold and warm water/weather beneficial aquatic/pond bacteria solutions mentioned and linked in this article go a long way towards keeping algae blooms from happening. They can also help to put an end to an algae bloom that’s in process. The one you’d want to use this time of year is Eco Labs 971047 10PLG4 Microbe Lift PL Bacteria – https://amzn.to/2HqDWJh. Start there since it’s the easiest solution and you should see results within 10-14 days. If you still have a problem, you may need to do a good pond cleaning, especially cleaning out the filter pond and pads (then inoculating with pond bacteria after cleaning). Hope this helps and let us know if you have any questions – and how the Microbe Lift pond bacteria worked for you if you use it!

            • Reply
              Sylvia
              June 30, 2021 at 10:43 pm

              Thanks for your answer Aaron
              Well I am in a rather colder climate: southern New Hampshire, zone 5a, so I sure would be using the de-icer for more than a couple of weeks per winter, lol!!!
              I’m also wondering if we could use something else than plastic tarp, plastic sheets, plastic everything, after all nowadays we know that an “all plastic” approach is not the best… even if for some things we don’t have a choice (like plumbing)
              Would it be possible to use very heavy clayish soil to line the pond? does this exist? or would it be too expensive? would you have any ideas?
              Just a thought… (I try to be as eco-conscious as possible)

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                July 1, 2021 at 7:22 am

                I believe it is possible to use different methods to at least partially seal your pond floor and walls without using EPDM rubber liner. Some natural ponds use heavy machinery (or lots of manual labor) to severely tamp down the soil, compacting it to the point that it acts almost like concrete. That’s a heck of a lot of work, but perhaps something you’d want to consider. There are potential downsides to that method, however. One: there’s inevitably going to be slow, steady water loss. Over years, those losses are likely going to be considerable. Two: if there are ducks in the pond, that means there’s going to be lots of duck waste in the pond. The Skippy biofilter + beneficial pond bacteria can go a long way towards remediating those biosolids. During annual cleanings, you can also remove the excess and put it in compost, around fruit and nut trees, etc. However, without a pond filter in place in your pond, there is likely to also be a slow, steady stream of pollution (nitrogen, phosphorus, etc + fecal bacteria) leaching into the subsoil and nearby waterways. All this to say there’s not a perfect solution here when it comes to ecological considerations, only tradeoffs.

            • Reply
              Miranda
              June 18, 2021 at 10:15 am

              Love the step by step and am in the process of mapping out our pond installation. We have 8 ducks and will assume to have more in the future as I’m pretty sure we have a few drakes in the mix (they’re only a few weeks old right now so hard to tell)
              Pond is going to be a slightly larger scale (6′ x 16′ and 3-3.5′ deep at bottom level) and between 1800-2000 gallons.
              I have a couple questions
              1) did you decide to flow your 2 filters into each other due to space or function? We’re mapping out spacing and are considering having 2 larger scale filter set ups but with 2 independent waterfalls instead of flowing into each other , wondering if this will reduce the effectiveness of the filtering or if yours was just set up this way due to space?
              2) I noted you have fish and sorry if I missed it, wondering what breed of fish you have along with your ducks, we’ve read Tilapia can work well with ducks along with carp and other bottom feeders but hoping for more insight into what will work, we’d like to add some fish especially since our pond will be deeper and we’re in Canada with colder winters so water movement will help.
              3) Do you or have you considered adding anything else to assist with natural cleansing of the pond (i.e. aquatic plants, mussels, tadpoles etc)?
              4) How does your surrounding area hold up to the water etc, you stated you use mulch, just wondering how much water is retained there, do the ducks pick at it etc. Our pond will be in an enclosed large run that is shared with our chickens and guineas so want to keep muck to a minimum (i know famous last words with ducks) so we’re considering a flagstone/gravel surround or gravel only etc

              Thanks and thanks for the great post!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                June 18, 2021 at 11:58 am

                Hi Miranda! Glad our DIY pond guide was helpful for you. Answers to your questions below:

                1. For clarity and for the sake of anyone else reading, each of our filter ponds has its own pump. The second filter has a slightly smaller Laguna pump and we’re currently using lava rock and gravel + pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) in that pond. The primary filter pond has the Matala filters in it. Frankly, the Matala filter pond works far better and we’ll eventually use those filters in the secondary pond. We have to fence our ducks out of the filter ponds because: 1) they’re ducks and want to get into anything and everything, and 2) they LOVE eating the pickerelweed. Although using pickerelweed is a good way to close the loop by recycling duck “nutrients” and cleaning the pond, the roots grow all the way down into the piping, eventually causing the pump to back up and cut off. 

                Filtered water from our second filter pond flows down via waterfall to our primary filter pond which then goes back into the main pond via two waterfalls. The second filter pond was not something we planned for at first, so our final setup was more a matter of using existing infrastructure, rocks, and materials we already had, rather than buying a bunch of new stuff. When we built our original pond, we also didn’t have Matala filters. If we had had Matala filters, our system may have worked perfectly fine as-is without need for a secondary pond to assist in filtering out solids. Bottom line: there’s no single *right* way to design your filter pond(s) and waterfalls. Keep it as simple as possible to start with and modify/iterate as you get feedback from experience.  

                2. We went to Petco and got about 10 small feeder fish for $0.50/each, species unknown. We put them in the duck pond and the ducks promptly ate all of them – or so we thought. A few of them made it and grew larger over the course of 5 years. Unfortunately, I managed to accidentally kill all our fish this year during our first pond cleanout in two years. I was in a super-rush while our toddler was napping. The municipal water I refilled the pond with had enough chlorine to kill the fish. I should have gotten potassium metabisulfite tablets to remove the chlorine. 

                We’re NOT fish experts, as you may have ascertained. However, I’m pretty sure tilapia would be a challenge in Canada since they need warm water. Carp might be a better fit from a cold standpoint, but they get huge and need vegetation in their diet. You’d need a fish species that eats waste, not plant material, and could survive cold winters. Not sure what that would be and/or whether it would produce as much waste/nitrogen/pollution as it removes from your pond system. My guess is that you’d be better off with more filter pond and no fish, if your primary aim is better water quality.     

                3. Ducks will eat and/or destroy pretty much any plant you put in their pond that they have access to. One semi-exception we’ve found so far is a yellow flag iris, that’s considered an invasive species. We grow it in pots in the pond – they rip it a bit, but apparently don’t like the flavor and thus leave it pretty well alone. Alternative: you can use fencing around your filter pond and put plants like pickerelweed in. If the pond is in a covered run, those plants probably won’t get enough light. As mentioned earlier, their roots can also cause plumbing clogs as they mature. Perhaps you could also plumb your filter pond to be outside of your duck run, in which case you could grow whatever plants you like, so long as their roots didn’t clog your pump.  
                Something we found interesting: all the unexpected wildlife that showed up in our pond: dragonflies and dragonfly larvae, frogs and tadpoles (which our ducks eat), mayfly larvae, aquatic snails, aquatic worms (cleaners, not parasites), and more. We even had a small snapping turtle show up somehow, despite the whole area being fenced (our ducks allerted us to the intruder). These critters probably do a ton of work keeping our duck pond water quality in check, but we haven’t been intentional in introducing them or managing them.   

                4. The only water that escapes our pond is when: a) we have really heavy rains that cause an overflow, or b) our ducks break through our filter pond defenses, muck things up, and cause our waterfall to overflow out of the side. When our ducks jump out of the pond, there’s a small amount of water that comes out on them and their feathers, but not enough to impact the pond level. Our back yard and pond area gets a top up of triple ground mulch at least once per year. All this to say that the area around their pond is not at all mucky. If you put your pond in their run, you’ll want to use something heavier like mulch or pebbles (not pine shavings or anything light) to prevent your ducks from getting too much stuff in their pond that could clog your filters. Or I suppose you could build your pond more elevated above ground level to prevent that type of bedding from getting in your pond. We like triple ground mulch because it’s carbon-rich and helps absorb and lock up the nitrogen-rich waste, eventually decomposing into soil which feeds all the perennial fruiting plants in the yard (peaches, persimmons, thornless caneberries, etc). 

                Hope this info helps and best of luck on building your pond!

            • Reply
              Sylvia
              June 14, 2021 at 7:43 pm

              This is really impressive and very beautiful! It makes me dream about building one too
              You stated the building budget is between one or two thousand dollars, I find it rather reasonable
              But I’m curious how much are the running costs, after all the pumps work with electric power, as well as the de-icer in winter (1250 watts, gasp!!!)
              Plus of course maintenance or replacement of all these devices if/when they stop working
              How much can we expect to pay per year? maybe it was in one of your answers but I couldn’t read all of them
              Thanks!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                June 15, 2021 at 1:28 pm

                Hi Sylvia! Great question. I wish we could tell you the exact energy costs of the pond pump, but we just don’t know. I can say that Laguna pumps are known as the most energy efficient pumps on the market (they utilize Watts energy saving technology), and we didn’t notice any appreciable difference in our overall energy costs after installing our pond.

                As for the pond de-icer, that’s only something we use occasionally during REALLY cold snaps where the pond freezes over. Since we live in a mild climate (Zone 7b), that might mean we use a de-icer for a few weeks each year. This past winter, we didn’t have to use our pond de-icer at all, so $0 energy costs! There *may* be better, more energy-efficient pond de-icing technologies out there that we don’t know about.

                We did have to replace one of our Laguna pumps after 5 years, but that was due to my negligence, not normal wear and tear on the pump. During the fall, we have a large oak that dumps huge quantities of leaves into the pond. I’m normally good about cleaning them out once a week or so when they’re falling (plus cleaning the pump whenever the flow decreases), but I got lazy one year and we suffered the consequences with a burned out pump. (Molting ducks didn’t help.)

                It’s super easy to turn off and clean out a Laguna pond pump, as you can see here in this video/article (takes about 5 minutes for a bad clog): https://www.tyrantfarms.com/video-how-to-clean-a-laguna-max-flo-pump-in-your-backyard-pond/. Hope this info helps and feel free to ask any other questions you have.

                • Reply
                  Mark
                  February 28, 2025 at 1:44 pm

                  Hi Aaron. Very interesting discussion. I have a few questions. First, What is your average water depth, and why did you choose that depth? Second, Is it reasonable to use a solar panel and battery to power the pumps? Third, Can duck poo naturally seal a pond over time? Fourth, could square hay bales be used for filter media? Fifth, could Portland cement be mixed with soil and used to seal a pond? Seventh, could a check valve serve to prevent back-flow rather than a ball valve? Thanks!

                  • Aaron von Frank
                    March 3, 2025 at 2:20 pm

                    1. What is your average water depth, and why did you choose that depth? 

                    The pond is about 3′ deep at the deepest point where the pump is, but there are tiers to the pond, so the height varies somewhat across the pond. The deeper and wider the pond, the more materials you’ll need, so we struck a nice balance between our needs based on size of yard/space, number of ducks, and what was economical.  

                    The pond depth should allow your ducks room to dabble, dive, splash, and mate.  

                    2. Is it reasonable to use a solar panel and battery to power the pumps? 

                    Depending on where you live, maybe so. On cloudy freezing winter days, we’d be nervous about our pumps losing power. Financially, you’d also need to consider the upfront costs of a solar/battery system relative to annual costs of running off of your existing electrical system to determine which option makes sense – assuming you put your pond in a spot where you can tap into the grid or plug into an existing outlet.
                    We’d place more value on continuity of power than not having to pay for ongoing electric costs.  

                    3. Can duck poo naturally seal a pond over time? 

                    Don’t know enough about this to give an even partially definitive answer. Best guess is not in any reasonable period of time, especially considering the sides of the pool where duck poo won’t aggregate because of gravity. 

                    4. Could square hay bales be used for filter media? 

                    Might be worth a shot but hay bales are so densely packed that I’m not sure they’d actually do much filtering relative to fabricated pond filter media. Secondary concern is that once the hay bale saturates and expands, you’ll end up with broken pipes and/or an overflowing filter pond.  

                    5. Could Portland cement be mixed with soil and used to seal a pond? 

                    Theoretically, yes, but there are caveats. The exact ratio of Portland cement-to-soil you’d need is a big wild card given variability in soil type – assuming mixing in another media would be feasible in the first place. Plus, Portland cement isn’t waterproof, so you’d have to use a sealant regardless. A pond liner seems like a more sure-fire, economical, and less laborious way to create a leak-proof pond. 

                    6. Could a check valve serve to prevent back-flow rather than a ball valve? 

                    Yes, but I’d still rather use a ball valve because sometimes we WANT the backflow between the filter ponds and the main pond. Good example: sometimes, the pond will get a minor clog where the water flow is diminished. By unplugging the pump for about 30 seconds and reversing the waterflow, the pump will unclog itself so I don’t have to get into the pond and do a full pump cleaning. 30 seconds vs 15 minutes. And it’s no fun doing a full pump cleaning on a freezing cold day. 

                    Hope this info helps!

            • Reply
              Nicole
              May 3, 2021 at 12:12 pm

              Do you ever have problems with algae in your pond? We just built our pond modeled after yours and used the bacteria you recommended. It’s been a few weeks and after a few hot, sunny days, the pond is green with algae. I don’t know if the bacteria haven’t had enough time to take care of the problem or if we need to add other things to get rid of the algae?

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                May 4, 2021 at 7:44 am

                Hi Nicole! It would be really strange for water straight from the tap to already have an algae bloom. That usually requires a good bit of nitrogen and/or other nutrient buildup. We just did our “annual” cleaning on our pond yesterday where we completely clean out the filter ponds, filter pads, clean leaves and debris off the bottom, and do a water changeout. I put “annual” in quotations because we actually haven’t done it in two years due to having a baby last year and just not having any time to spare. Our pond water was starting to have an algae bloom and the water was turning green with the nutrient buildup and onset of hot weather (it’s in the 80s here now).

                How many ducks do you have in your pond? Regardless, it’s possible that either:
                a) the chemical compounds in your municipal water killed the bacteria you put in your pond, or
                b) the bacteria just hasn’t had time to fully establish and start working.

                The bacteria kicking in is not an instant thing; it seems like it takes a week or so before you start seeing a noticeable difference in water quality. Recommendation: wait another week and if your pond water hasn’t started to clear up, add another round of pond bacteria. By that point, the bacteria-killing compounds in the municipal water will have long since dissipated or degraded, and you’ll have given the first round of bacteria ample time to start working. So whether it’s problem a or b, you’ll have your bases covered.

                Hope this helps and please check back in to let us know how things turn out!

            • Reply
              Melissa
              April 10, 2021 at 7:24 am

              Hello, thank you so much for sharing this information. I plan to follow these instructions to build a pond for my 3 ducks this summer. Do you think a 100 gallon bio filter would accomplish what your 2 50 gallon filters do? We don’t have the space for 2 bio filters. Thank you!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                April 10, 2021 at 9:10 am

                Hi Melissa! Yes, you should be fine with a total of 100 gallons of filter pond. Actually, you should be more than fine given that you’ll only have 3 ducks using the pond, but it’s always better to have more capacity than you need because you never know how many ducks you’ll have in the future. Best of luck with your pond and let us know if you have questions as you get going!

            • Reply
              Edward Blank
              March 24, 2021 at 4:12 pm

              Thank you for your detailed instructions…could you tell me how many layers of the Filter media/pads: Matala Filter Media Pads – (Green) and Matala Filter Media Pads – (Grey). did you use?

              Pastor Ed

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                March 24, 2021 at 5:27 pm

                Hi Ed! Not sure the exact number of layers but we only used two total pads (they’re large). We started by cutting out a form from each color (green and grey) that fit snuggly into our filter pond – so two deep there. The remaining pad material was then cut into smaller pieces, which were stacked. Guesstimate is that the total combined thickness of layers is somewhere in the ~8-12″ range.

            • Reply
              Brian LeDonne
              January 16, 2021 at 9:14 am

              Question – when the water rises in the pond bog filter and looks like it pours out/over and creates the waterfall…Can you please explain how the water is directed down the waterfall into the main pond?

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                January 16, 2021 at 12:02 pm

                Hi Brian! We cut a rectangular section out of the filter pond lip, and use use pond glue + piece of pond liner to created an overhang so the water pours out of the filter pond and over the rock below it, which is where the waterfall begins. Please let us know if you have any other questions, and best of luck!

            • Reply
              Melissa
              November 12, 2020 at 2:11 pm

              I have a flock of 16 ducks, so almost 3x your flock size. Does that mean I need to triple my pond in order to keep the ecosystem & biofilters working properly?

              I need to build something quickly because although I have a couple kiddie pools (which they enjoy), the ducks inevitably end up in my person swimming pool, which is about to cause a divorce. LOL. (Note: we also have a 1 acre fish pond, about 1000 feet away, but the ducks are scared of it) Thanks for your help!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                November 13, 2020 at 11:18 am

                Hi Melissa! You’ll probably be fine building a 2x larger pond, but if you have the space and resources, it certainly can’t hurt to go larger. Funny that your ducks are afraid of your actual pond! We once brought our beloved pet duck, Svetlana, to the family lake house and she was absolutely terrified of the giant lake. Perhaps it was the size and all the other wildlife present. Maybe that’s how a hunter-gather human would react if you dropped them in the middle of New York City. Who’s to know the mind of a duck. One thing to be mindful of is the potential for snapping turtles to come out of your real pond and take up residence in your artificial pond. Even though we have a 6′ fence all around our backyard, a small snapper somehow got in and decided our duck pond would be its new home. Our ducks stopped using the pond for a few days and would stand next to it looking in and honking – that’s the only way we knew there was a snapping turtle there since it blended in so well. We caught the bugger in a net and re-homed it a few miles away in a swamp. Anyway, good luck mending your marriage while accommodating the needs of your ducks. 😛

            • Reply
              Julie
              September 27, 2020 at 10:23 pm

              Hi! My husband and I rescued a duck with a broken leg and a friend for him then due to the touch and go situation got two more friends just in case. Thank God for your site! Also thank you 🙂 question, we just built a pond but since we live in NE Ohio we will be getting lots of snow and below freezing days. How do you keep your pond from freezing? Thanks!!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                September 29, 2020 at 3:20 pm

                Hi Julie! Sounds like you’ve taken on quite a project! Ducks + pond in NE Ohio. We’re in a temperate/mild climate region down here in Upstate South Carolina. The coldest temps we ever get are single digits, but we do get frequent sub-freezing day and night temps throughout the cold months. We keep our pond from icing over two ways:
                1) Moving water – Water running through the pipes will not freeze unless it gets REALLY cold. Our pipes didn’t freeze when it hit 5F. We have two waterfalls in our system, and that also helps keep the water surface from freezing.
                2) Mentioned in our “how to build a pond” article, but we have a pond de-icer we use during cold spells that does the rest of the work for us. Here’s the Amazon link in case that’s something you want to get: https://amzn.to/2Ghzotl. The de-icer might not be effective at keeping the surface ice-free in your cold climate, but it will at least keep an opening in the ice to allow gasses to escape the water which will preserve water quality throughout the winter.

                There may be some sort of pond heater you could get but we’d be stepping outside of our knowledge/experience zone in recommending anything in that department. Regardless, best of luck to you and your new duck family!

            • Reply
              Linda Weaving
              August 4, 2020 at 8:59 pm

              Have you considered a reed bed system and could such a system work instead of or in addition to the skippy pond? My garden is very ornamental and I wouldn’t want to have the pipes visible. I also plan for a 1metre waterfall, so would that do the job of your two waterfalls? Could the pond size be scaled down? What would be the volume you’d recommend for a couple of miniature ducks?

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                August 11, 2020 at 3:41 pm

                Hi Linda! Responses to your questions:

                1. You could use a reed bed system, but a) it would likely require a lot more room than a skippy biofilter system, and b) you’d have to fence it off or somehow keep your ducks out. Ducks will eat or destroy pretty much any plant you put in the water with them. The only plant we’ve managed to grow in the pond with our ducks is a marsh iris inside a pot with rocks to keep them from pulling out the bulbs.

                2. You could very easily cover/obscure your pipes with rocks, pond liner, plants, etc. We didn’t do a great job with that.

                3. The waterfalls are more for aerating/oxygenating the water than cleaning, although they do do a bit of cleaning. A 1 meter waterfall should be fine and you could scale down the overall size of the pond and still be fine there as well. There’s no hard-and-fast rule on square feet of pond per duck, but we’d recommend going as large as you’re able. Two miniature ducks don’t need a huge pond (you could do half our size or smaller), but they’ll be happier with more water and the water quality will be easier to maintain. Hope this helps!

            • Reply
              Renee
              January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

              Just wondering if there’s a reason you have the 2nd filter fall into the first? Or can I just put the 2nd filter in a different area and make my 2nd waterfall that way.
              Thanks for all this. I can’t wait just getting started.

            • Reply
              Rodrigo Pellegrini
              January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

              This is amazing, i’m a duck evangelist as well and i will follow your guidance and try to build a pond myself.

            • Reply
              smithmal
              April 24, 2018 at 12:53 am

              Wow!!! Thank you very much for answering all of my questions so thoroughly. I really appreciate it. Glad to hear that your system has been up and running for three years. I think that is a good enough time period to be able to provide a realistic review of your system. Most videos/blogs I’ve seen/read provide feedback right after a pond has been built rather than waiting/returning after a couple seasons which I think provide a much more realistic overview of a working system.

              I’m definitely interested in putting in a system like this. The only thing that I’m still exploring is whether to use a submersible pump or an external pump. I’m thinking about maybe using an external pump as it would be easier to access for cleaning and provide a longer working life since as it would have to deal with pumping water with as much biomass since the water could be pre-filtered before entering the pump. They are however more expensive.

              Thanks for listing all the microbes you use with your skippy filter. I’m a little confused about when and how you introduce each variety of bacteria to your biofilter. Could you expand on this?

              In terms of pumping out the water in your biofilters, have you thought about building a drum reservior with a spigot and attaching a dry vac to it? I use this type of system for collecting the rinse when cleaning duck sand and then adding the rinse to my fruit trees. I think it would work great in your system as well (see vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCjFh8I4rPU&t=2s

              Whenever you get the time, a video of your system providing an design overview and maintenance would be much appreciated.

              Thanks again!

              smithmal .

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