Cob Oven

How To Build a Wood-Fired Oven with Cob

How To Make a Wood-Fired Oven With Cob thumbnail

Want to make your own wood-fired cob oven? Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide showing you how to make your own cob oven. 


Newly risen loaves of bread dough, stuffed heirloom pumpkins, blueberry cobbler, uncooked homemade pizzas and a giant pot of venison stew are all lined up on an outdoor table, ready to enter the scorching hot, labyrinthine interior of the wood-fired oven. The baker removes a rounded, water-soaked wooden cooking door, and throws a pinch of flour on the fire brick floor of the oven to check the interior temperature. The flour quickly blackens, sending up a small puff of smoke.

“Still too hot, probably about 900 degrees,” she says.

No, this is not a first-hand account from a rustic French restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. It’s taking place in our back yard in Greenville, South Carolina.

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13 Comments

  • Reply
    Dave
    March 2, 2024 at 4:22 am

    Great post, we’re just finishing our base and nearly ready for the firebricks. Did you lay your bricks ‘loose’ on the fine layer of sand?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 2, 2024 at 11:03 am

      Hi Dave! Glad our DIY cob oven article was helpful for you. Just to make sure I answer your question accurately, I’m interpreting “loose” to mean that the fire bricks were not set or mortared in any way. If so, yes, that’s correct. We laid the bricks on top of the packed, leveled layer of top insulating sand on the oven’s base. Let me know if that clears things up or you have additional questions!

  • Reply
    alicia
    November 11, 2020 at 8:09 am

    Thanks for a great post! So you recommended potters clay is the best clay if your soi has low content. Does this have to be powered or is this not necessary? Also how much would you recommend for a project like this?

    Thank you so much!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      November 11, 2020 at 5:28 pm

      Hi Alicia! I’ll start by copying and pasting what we say in the article first in case other readers missed it: “Clay – this is more difficult to tell you precisely how much to use. Dry powder clay and wet clay are different weights. We had two large tupperwares full of dried clay scraps from an old pottery studio that we had to reconstitute with water. Err on the side of getting more clay than you think you need, so you don’t run out mid-project.”

      Also note that the size of the oven you plan to build is going to dictate the quantity of materials. In the book Build Your Own Earth Oven, which we recommend in the article, the author recommends the following quantities:
      -22.5″ oven – (8) 5 gallon buckets of oven mud + (8) 5 gallon buckets of insulation mix/cob
      -27″ oven – (12) 5 gallon buckets of oven mud + (10) 5 gallon buckets of insulation mix/cob
      -36″ oven – (17) 5 gallon buckets of oven mud + (13) 5 gallon buckets of insulation mix/cob

      Hope this info helps you make your cob oven! Please let us know if you have any additional questions as you go.

      • Reply
        dave nadolny
        May 5, 2021 at 9:46 pm

        is it necessary to have gravel in the base under the bottle/sand layers or can we use a previously built grill base?

        • Aaron von Frank
          May 6, 2021 at 7:18 am

          Hi Dave! The purpose of the gravel and sand in the base of the cob oven underneath the bottle/sand layer is: 1) to fill up the area and bring height to the final oven so you don’t have to squat down to use it, and 2) to provide a structurally sound foundation to the layers above it. You DON’T want the layers inside and underneath your oven to settle or you risk the whole thing cracking or the oven floor collapsing. With that in mind, I’m not quite sure about the specifics of your previously built grill base – perhaps you could provide more info? If your grill base addresses point #1 and #2 above, it should be fine, but I can’t really weigh in without more info.

  • Reply
    Renee Mattingly
    May 24, 2020 at 8:23 pm

    What was the diameter of the sand castle?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 25, 2020 at 3:18 pm

      If you make your cob oven to the same specifications as ours, the sand dome would be ~19” tall (from the top of the firebrick to the peak of the sand dome). The diameter of the sand dome will depend on the diameter of your oven foundation. You’ll want to make sure you have enough room to put on 6 1/2″ layer of clay, cob, and plaster. For instance, our oven foundation has a ~50″ diameter, so the sand dome had a 37″ diameter.

  • Reply
    Typical Troll
    May 7, 2020 at 2:11 pm

    Wow you guys never cease to amaze.
    I just keep running across you guys in my searches!
    Start somewhere else but end up here.

    Search for ducks, there you are.
    Ponds, check.
    Killer recipes, yep
    Growing your own food, uh-huh.
    Now cob ovens too?!

    Though looking at dates this is I suppose the “prequel” lol.

    Keep doing what you do, love you all!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 11, 2020 at 6:33 pm

      Ha! Well, that’s good to hear. Google can be a little ornery from time to time and change our page ranking on certain topics – not always for the better. Hopefully, this is the most detailed and well-photographed “how to build a cob oven article” out there, so it will continue to show up high in search results. As always, reach out any time you have a question about a similar project you’re working on, whether that’s ducks, cob ovens, recipes, foraging, or growing food. 🙂

  • Reply
    Marty Kelley
    September 3, 2019 at 7:20 pm

    I just finished my own cob oven based on these directions. Sadly, I didn’t have any duck helpers, but it still seemed to come out well. The only major difference was that I did not use a concrete pad. For the heavy winters and freezing/thawing we get here in NH, I opted instead to dig an 18″ deep hole and fill it with crushed, packed gravel. I then built the stone foundation on top of that. So far, so good! Thanks so much for the really helpful directions.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 4, 2019 at 10:19 am

      Thanks for the input! Good idea on the base modifications in your climate region. We’re down in South Carolina, so our winters aren’t nearly as cold. So digging a deeper foundation or using materials less likely to crack under extreme freezing conditions makes a lot of sense. Hope you enjoy years of great meals in your cob oven!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 4, 2019 at 10:19 am

      Thanks for the input! Good idea on the base modifications in your climate region. We’re down in South Carolina, so our winters aren’t nearly as cold. So digging a deeper foundation or using materials less likely to crack under extreme freezing conditions makes a lot of sense. Hope you enjoy years of great meals in your cob oven!

Leave a Reply

Gardening

How to extend your tomato growing season

Find out how to extend your tomato growing season and get another big round of tomatoes before first frost using tomato suckers from your current plants!


Here on the outskirts of Greenville, SC in Agricultural Zone 7B, the summer growing season has already peaked and is starting its slow descent towards fall.

All of our cool weather seed trays are sown and we’re looking forward to all the yummy produce that comes with cooler weather: broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, cabbage and more. However, that doesn’t mean we’re ready to give up on getting a bunch of warm-weather produce while we still can.

To accomplish this aim we have a few little tricks that help extend our summer growing season. If you love tomatoes as much as we do (and our ducks do), then you’ll enjoy having some simple tricks up your sleeve to help you get another big round of tomatoes out of your garden before the first frost of the year.

Tomato growing temperatures – how cold is too cold for tomato fruit set? 

As long as your day and nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F, you can continue to get fruit set from most tomato varieties. 

What are the most cold tolerant heirloom tomato varieties?

There are also some tomato varieties that are much more cold tolerant and can continue to set fruit down into the upper 30s! 

Bred for short/cool summers in the far north, these cold-tolerant heirloom tomato varieties are:  

  • ‘Glacier’ from Sweden,
  • ‘Stupice’ from Czechoslovakia, and
  • ‘Siberia’ from Russia.    

However, by midsummer, most tomato plants are well past their prime, having been drained of energy from fruit production or succumbed to various tomato diseases (late blight, fusarium wilt, etc.) 

Paul Robeson Tomato atop an Atlantic Giant Pumpkin - Tyrant Farms

‘Paul Robeson’ heirloom tomato taking a nap atop an ‘Atlantic Giant’ pumpkin. 

What are “tomato suckers”?   

The term “tomato sucker” refers to the new growth that emerges from the joint between a primary stem and branch on a tomato plant. 

What's a tomato sucker? Here you can see tomato suckers growing on a rather leggy 'Matt's wild' cherry tomato plant growing in a shady spot in our garden. Small-fruited tomato varieties can actually grow and produce some yield in part to nearly full-shade spots. 

Here you can see tomato suckers growing on a rather leggy ‘Matt’s wild’ cherry tomato plant growing in a shady spot in our garden. Small-fruited tomato varieties can actually grow and produce some yield in part to nearly full-shade spots. 

Many people recommend keeping your tomato suckers trimmed off throughout the growing season to get larger fruit and healthier plants. However, we grow way too many tomato plants to keep all of our suckers cut, so we don’t bother to remove them.

We haven’t noticed any difference in our plants’ health, yields or fruit size either way, and we like not having to spend hours each week suckering all of our tomato plants. 

Tomato suckers can form new tomato plants? 

Tomato suckers removed to be grown into new plants.

Some freshly cut tomato suckers that will be used to grow new tomato plants at Tyrant Farms. 

As you may know, tomato plants root very easily. The “fuzzy” white texture you see on their stem surface are actually adventitious roots, that can actually become new soil roots.

Each year between mid-July and mid-August, we cut off suckers from some of our favorite tomato varieties and grow a last batch of healthy new plants that yield an abundance of late-season fruit. You could do the same thing by starting new tomato seeds, but growing suckers gives you a big jumpstart. 

Step by step: How to extend your tomato growing season by growing suckers

Step 1: Remove suckers from old, but otherwise healthy tomato plants. 

Cut off a few healthy suckers from some of your favorite tomato plants that are already past their prime, but not dying from disease. Use suckers that are at least 4-5″ long and already have a couple of healthy leaves/branches on them.

Plop them in a glass of water to keep them wet before the next step. Rooting Tomato Suckers- Tyrant Farms

Tomato suckers removed from plant and waiting for the next step in the process. 

Trim all but the very top leaves/growth tip on the sucker. If the suckers are large enough to already have flowers on them, pinch off the flowers so that the new plant can put its energy into root growth rather than trying to set fruit.

Cutting the first few leaves off the tomato sucker. - Tyrant Farms

Cutting the first few leaves off the tomato sucker. We’ll also pinch off the flowers here.

A completely trimmed tomato sucker just before planting - Tyrant Farms

A completely trimmed tomato sucker ready for the next step in the rooting process.

Step 2: Dip tomato sucker base in rooting hormone.  

Dip the stems of your suckers in rooting hormone. Because tomatoes root so readily, this step is optional, but will yield better results. 

Dipping the tomato sucker in rooting hormone. - Tyrant Farms

Dipping the tomato sucker in rooting hormone.

Step 3: Pot up your tomato suckers. 

Put the tomato sucker in a small seedling pot filled with quality seed starting mix or potting soil. Bury the stem up to the first leaves.

Remember, the adventitious roots on the stem we mentioned earlier? Yes, those will all turn into new roots. The more roots, the healthier the plant will be.

Use a small bamboo skewer to help make the hole and guide the plant in. - Tyrant Farms

We use a small bamboo skewer to help make the hole and guide the plant in.

Keep the new plants moist and out of full sun! A shady or at most part-sun location is ideal for the first ~7 days as the roots get established. Mist or water daily as-needed to keep the soil damp or if the plants look limp. Also move them into full shade if they look limp.

Step 4: Harden off & plant in the ground.

After about 7-10 days, your suckers should have established new roots. You’ll notice their vigor increase and healthy new leaves start forming once the new roots have started forming.

Allow your new tomato plants about a week to harden off to full sun again. Generally, we follow this schedule for hardening newly rooted plants:

  • Days 1-2: 2-4 hours full sun;
  • Days 3-4: 4-6 hours full sun;  
  • Day 4-6: 6-8+ hours full sun.

Keep your eye on your plants for signs of stress. If they look limp, it’s either heat stress or lack of water. If the leaves start to brown, they’re getting sunburned.

Finally, once your tomato plants are hardened off, find a good, sunny, tomato-friendly location and get them in the ground as soon as possible! 

Step 5: Harvest. 

Where we live in South Carolina, we often don’t get our first frost until late October or November, so we can get a lot more tomatoes before fall sets in. Select smaller-fruited tomato varieties with lower days to maturity if you’re worried about not having enough time to get a good harvest before first frost (larger-fruited tomatoes take longer to ripen).

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Gonna miss these. Getting close to the last of the monster heirloom tomatoes. So long until next summer, beautiful beasties. #heirloomtomatoes #organicgardening #GrowJourney

A post shared by Tyrant Farms (@tyrantfarms) on

If you want to push the season even further, consider using frost blankets or old bed sheets on cool/cold nights to keep your tomatoes going beyond their normal growing season.  

Or if you see a frost about to hit before your large tomatoes are fully ripe, you can always make a big batch of green tomato marmalade, a delicious treat made from unripe green tomatoes that we’ve fallen in love with over the years.

Again, the tomato season-extension methods in this article don’t require any seeds and produce new, robust plants far faster than growing them from seed. We hope this information helps you get a big late season tomato harvest this summer – or maybe even fall! 

KIGI,

Other tomato articles you may enjoy: 

1 Comment

  • Reply
    beverly
    November 11, 2014 at 12:07 pm

    I topped my tomatoes this fall to encourage tomato growth and stop the flowers. I now have some nice size ripening tomatoes on spring planted tomato plants. I love the rooting sucker idea. I will try next year.

Leave a Reply

Gardening Recipes

Recipe: Garden huckleberry preserves (a nightshade berry)

Recipe: Garden huckleberry preserves (a nightshade berry) thumbnail

Garden huckleberries (Solanum nigrum var. melanoserasum) are a fruit in the nightshade family that have earned a “must-grow” status in our summer garden. Here’s more about the fruit, plus a delicious garden huckleberry preserves recipe. 


The many edible wonders of the nightshade plant family

Admittedly, we have a bit of an infatuation with plants in the nightshade family. Each year, our garden is loaded with eggplants, tomatoes, tomatillos, ground cherries, cape gooseberries, wonderberries, and other berries that all belong in the Nightshade family (Solanaceae).

Yes, tomatoes and eggplants are technically berries, not vegetables.

Golden ripe ground cherries, perhaps our favorite summer fruit.

Golden ripe ground cherries, perhaps our favorite summer fruit.

Each nightshade is uniquely delicious in its own regard, and really shouldn’t be compared. We usually make savory dishes out of our eggplants, but have also made an acorn flour, eggplant cake that was to die for.

Most gardeners have plenty of recipes for tomatoes, but unless they’re familiar with Latin American cuisines, they may feel a little lost when it comes to preparing tomatillos (which are fantastic eaten raw, made into salsa verde or various cooked sauces). 

Ground cherries and cape gooseberries rarely make it back inside because we devour them on the spot. When it comes to garden huckleberries or the closely related wonderberries, many gardeners haven’t heard of them, or if they have, wouldn’t know what to do with them at harvest.

The truth is that there is a huge range of nightshade berries that American gardeners either don’t know about or grow. We think there is enormous potential for many of these varieties to become popular with adventurous home gardeners and gourmet chefs. (Not to mention, the potential to breed “new heirloom” varieties.)

Wonderberries vs. Garden Huckleberries – What’s the Difference?

As it turns out, the names wonderberries and garden huckleberries are often used interchangeably, but they’re not the same plant. The berries of each are vastly different in both flavor and how they need to be prepared prior to consumption.

Both plants likely have a common ancestor in Africa, as this fascinating report from the National Resources Institute at University of Greenwich details. And, no, they’re not genetically related to true huckleberries in the Ericaceae family, which we call “blueberries” here in the southeast.

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Wonderberries, a nightshade fruit dating back to (at least) the time of Luther Burbank, whose plant breeding work was the catalyst of plant patenting which started in the 1930s. These are quite good – very sweet with blueberry notes. You’ll never see these in a grocery store because picking the small berries is very tedious work and the thin-skinned fruits damage easily while picking giving them a very short shelf life. One of the nice things about gardening is profitability doesn’t have to factor into your plant selection. Your garden should be as weird as you are. 😛 #wonderberries #heirloomseeds #organicgardening #gardening #gardenideas #gardentotable

A post shared by Tyrant Farms (@tyrantfarms) on

About Wonderberries, aka sunberries 

Wonderberries were bred by the famed botanist and plant breeder Luther Burbank, who introduced as many as 1,000 new cultivars of fruit trees, veggies, flowers and other plants during his remarkable career. Burbank supposedly bred wonderberries by stabilizing a hybrid between two other nightshades, S. villosum and S. guineense.

As the story goes, he then sold the rights to wonderberries to another seed company, which then renamed them “sunberries.” Apparently, this set off a feud between the company and Burbank that spanned decades, leaving his reputation somewhat tarnished.

Until recently, wonderberries’ scientific name was Solanum × burbankii, in honor of Burbank. However, they’re now technically supposed to be called Solanum retroflexum

About garden huckleberries 

Further complicating matters: there is another plant in the nightshade family that also produces small, black fruits that sound very similar in description to wonderberries: garden huckleberries.

A nice harvest of garden huckleberries – this was a second harvest off of only four plants. The plants will continue to produce more berries throughout the summer.

The scientific name for garden huckleberries is often listed under Solanum scabrum or Solanum melanocerasum or Solanum nigrum, depending on which seed company or university extension you reference.

See why both the common and scientific names of wonderberries and huckleberries are often mixed up? Frankly, it’s very difficult to determine the correct scientific name for actual garden huckleberries. As best as we can tell from our research, it’s Solanum nigrum var. melanoserasum but that could change depending on which reference you use or future genetic analysis.

Comparing wonderberries and garden huckleberries

Beautiful clusters of garden huckleberries. You only want to harvest the berries once they’ve turned fully black in color and are very slightly soft when squeezed.

Growth habit comparison:

Wonderberries are smaller, less robust plants than garden huckleberries. We’d almost call them “dainty.”

Their maximum height is about 2-3′. They get loaded with tiny green berries that turn black and soft when ripe. The ripe fruit is about the size of a small pea. Each plant will produce 3-5 cups of fruit in a growing season.

Garden Huckleberries are larger, very robust plants. Apparently some subspecies in tropical African climates can even be short-lived perennials. Our plants grow to be about 3-4 tall, and have a similar growth habit to a large pepper plant, although they produce longer branches.

All along the branches, clusters of berries form, turning from green to deep black when fully ripened. The mature berries are about the size of a big blueberry and have a tough, almost leathery skin. Each plant will produce 1-3 gallons of fruit in a growing season.

Flavor comparison:

Wonderberries offer a pleasant, sweet flavor when eaten raw right off the plant. The berries are very thin-skinned and will fall from the plant when overly ripe.

They’re not quite as good as blueberries in flavor (in our opinion), but they’re definitely worth growing for fresh eating if you have the space in your garden or have some open pots. We’ve heard they make excellent pies and preserves as well, but we’ve never gathered enough to give it a try.

Garden huckleberries are not good eaten raw. They have almost no flavor (similar to a raw eggplant) and the skin is quite tough in comparison to a wonderberry.

If raw fruit was the only option, garden huckleberries wouldn’t be worth growing. However, when cooked and sweetened, something magical happens with garden huckleberries.

They can be made into beautiful deep purple-colored sauces, pies and preserves—and the flavor is out of this world delicious. If you could combine the best flavors from blueberries and grapes into a single fruit, that’s what cooked, sweetened garden huckleberries (such as garden huckleberry preserves) taste like.

Be sure to remove the garden huckleberry stems before cooking. If you don’t have enough to make into a recipe right away, put them in the freezer and continue to harvest until you have enough berries. They’ll continue to produce well into the fall in our Agricultural Zone (7b).

Now that we’ve experienced how robust the plants are, how easy they are to grow, how many berries each bush produces, and the wonderful flavor their cooked berries have to offer, we’ve decided that garden huckleberries will be part of our summer garden every year hereafter.

Tyrant farms garden huckleberry preserves.

Tyrant farms garden huckleberry preserves, delicious served on toast, pancakes, ice cream, and more.

Recipe: Garden huckleberry preserves

Here’s a simple garden huckleberry recipe to get you started in the right direction. Once you’ve had a chance to experience the primary flavors, you can start experimenting with future batches: pure vanilla extract and other flavors would likely add nice nuance and variation as well.

Yum! Garden huckleberry preserves on a whole grain English muffin with local grass-fed butter.

Yum! Garden hucklberry preserves on whole grain English muffin with local grass-fed butter.
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Recipe: Garden huckleberry preserves (a nightshade berry)

Course: Breakfast, brunch, Preserves
Cuisine: American
Keyword: garden huckleberry preserves, garden huckleberry recipe
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 25 minutes
Author: Aaron von Frank

A delicious preserve made from a rare nightshade fruit that tastes like a cross between blueberry and concord grape jelly.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds roughly 8-10 cups of ripe garden huckleberries
  • 3 cups of organic granulated cane sugar
  • 1 package of regular pectin
  • 1 lemon zested and juiced (optional but citric acid is usually a good idea when preserving/canning)
  • 1/4 cup water used at the beginning of cooking to prevent fruit scald

Instructions

  1. Sterilize your canning jars and screw lids by boiling them for at least 15 minutes (*don't boil the flat lids that actually go on the top of the jar or you'll remove the gum/adhesive seal).
  2. Sort through your garden huckleberries to remove any stems. Then rinse them in a strainer.
  3. Put berries and water in a large pot over medium heat. The 1/4 cup of water is added to prevent the fruit from scalding or sticking to the bottom of the pan. Bring slowly to a boil and allow to boil about 20 minutes to reduce water content.
  4. Add lemon zest/juice if you plan to use it.
  5. Boil for an additional 40 minutes. Many of the garden huckleberries will still have maintained their shape/form, so you might want to "mush" them a bit here. A potato masher works great.
  6. Add your pectin and bring back to a full rolling boil, stirring until all of the pectin has dissolved.
  7. Add sugar to the boiling garden huckleberries and stir until completely dissolved (only takes a few minutes). Remove from the heat.
  8. Ladle huckleberry preserves into your sterilized, hot jars. You'll want to leave room for expansion, about 1/4" between the top of your preserves and your jar lid (called "head space"). Using a magnetized canning lid lifter, dip each lid into the boiling water for about 10-15 seconds. Place lid on top of jar, and screw on rings—not tight, you want them to have a bit of give.
  9. Boil jars with preserves in them for 15 minutes, making sure the water is at least 1-2" over the top of the lid so that air bubbles out of the jars.
  10. Remove jars from boiling water and place them on heat-proof countertop or stove top. Each jar should make a single "pop" sound shortly after being removed from boiling water, indicating that it has sealed. The lid will also indent downward. If a jar does not seal, place back in boiling water for 5 more minutes and repeat the process. Do NOT eat unsealed preserves. If you can't get your jars to seal or don't feel like going through the steps above, freeze them or stick them in the fridge.

Now you know what garden huckleberries are and how to use them in the kitchen! You’re on your way to enjoying one of the most delicious preserves you’ll ever eat. 

Enjoy! 

Other similar recipes you’ll love:

37 Comments

  • Reply
    Tracy
    September 13, 2024 at 6:30 pm

    I grew the berries for the first time this year (SW Manitoba) and the jam came together beautifully, the colour is gorgeous, and it’s just “chunky” enough, but the taste is, unfortunately, awful. I wonder if it’s one of those things, like cilantro, that some people actually get a different taste experience from than others?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 16, 2024 at 12:29 pm

      Oh no! Sorry, Tracy. I can’t imagine anyone disliking the flavor of the garden huckleberry preserves we make, but maybe so? To us, it tastes like a combination of blueberries and grapes. Everyone we know who’s tried it finds it equally enjoyable. Question: did you use VERY ripe black-colored fruit? I’d imagine underripe fruit would not produce a good end product.

  • Reply
    Tiffany
    September 3, 2023 at 2:59 pm

    I’ll be starting my canning experience with this recipe so I’ll need to collect all the materials needed. Was wondering if you could tell me how many of what size jar this recipe is best suited for?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 4, 2023 at 10:24 am

      Hi Tiffany! Sorry to say that this was a recipe we made many years ago and we didn’t record the exact finished quantity made. To be safe, I’d prep four 1-pint canning jars, which will hold up to 8 cups of finished preserves. That should be more than adequate. Best of luck on your garden huckleberry preserves — and your future canning endeavors!

  • Reply
    Homeschool Mom
    October 24, 2021 at 4:00 pm

    We grew garden huckleberries for the first time this year. We followed your recipe exactly, with the exception of adding a pinch of aluminum-free baking soda during the boiling process. When 4 members of our family tasted the bit of jam still in my saucepan that wasn’t going into jars for processing, I tasted a strong metallic aftertaste very quickly after the initial hit of wonderful-grape-blueberry flavor. Enough to make me crinkle my nose and not want more. My husband got the “aftertaste” after having swallowed the jam. One son did not taste an aftertaste or metallic taste at all, and another son thought there was a mild hint of aftertaste. I’m convinced that this taste, which is a tad bitter, is possibly from some of the fruits being not perfectly ripe and containing higher levels of the toxin solanine, which is also found in the green skin of potatoes exposed to daylight. From what I’ve read, to be safe, garden huckleberries should only be harvested about 2 weeks after the black berries have turned dull, or matte in finish, rather than shiny, and the fruits are soft. Our fruits were mostly dull (some may have been on their way there, but not having arrived fully, but were not all “soft” like a perfectly ripe blueberry. We have a shorter growing season where I live and needed to pick these before a freeze. If we grow them again, I’ll cross my fingers for a longer season and not serve any that may not be fully ripe to my family. I just thought I’d share as I couldn’t readily find a reason why some people are noting a metallic/bitter taste and others are not when following the same recipes.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 25, 2021 at 12:19 pm

      Thanks for the tip! We’re in Zone 7b in South Carolina, so we have a long summer growing season down here, plus we start our garden huckleberries indoors around early February. That means we always get VERY ripe garden huckleberries by the time we’re ready to start using them. Good to note that they can have an off flavor if not very ripe (even if cooked).

  • Reply
    Judy Morningstar
    September 18, 2021 at 10:40 am

    Next batch: this was successful. I have a really big pot.
    10 cups garden huckleberries, washed. Put in heavy big cooking pot with 1/2 cup water. Slowly bring to boil and cook for about 20 minutes on low temp, stirring often. Add 6 cups sugar, 1/4 tsp salt, 1/3 cup lemon juice. Mix and bring back to boiling. I used immersion blender here to mash, but did try the potato masher first. Boil carefully , stirring, till it reaches get stage (220F). That took about 25 more minutes. Bottle in sterilized jars and process. These were a bit riper and softer than the first batch, and taste a lot better. This made about 5 pint jars.

  • Reply
    Judy Morningstar
    September 16, 2021 at 6:29 pm

    I followed your recipe for preserves, and found it set too hard. It didn’t need the pectin, and maybe less cooking. I am going to experiment with more huckleberries tomorrow, and will let you know how I ca=hanged the recipe. The plants are extremely prolific! Our first year of growing them in Manitoba.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 17, 2021 at 5:31 pm

      Thanks for the feedback, Judy! We’ve had some people say the preserves didn’t set as well for them and others say it set too hard. We’re not quite sure what’s happening. It may be that people are using a different species of fruit since “huckleberry” is a common name that can refer to a wide range of fruiting plants. Please do check back in to let us know what you find with additional experiments.

      • Reply
        Frances Giles
        September 18, 2021 at 2:33 pm

        Dear Aaron, thanks for posting your info about garden huckleberries. About to do my first test batch in rural Southern Ontario. Re: jams setting too hard or too soft, the local humidity can make a difference to cooking times for jams. Likely your readers know – both are ‘fixable.’ See below. Cheers, Frances
        Too soft – empty the jars unto the pot, add a bit more sugar based on running and quantity. Let sugar dissolve before boiling again. I usually do small batches of 4-5 jars, everything cooks more evenly.
        Too hard, empty jars and cook again with more liquid. Distilled water keeps the product clearer, if you live in hard water areas.

        • Aaron von Frank
          September 19, 2021 at 12:48 pm

          Thanks, Frances! This info will likely come in handy for other folks trying to get just the right consistency.

  • Reply
    Renee
    September 6, 2021 at 3:41 pm

    Hi! I’m making this recipe for the first time with the Garden Huckleberries I grew from Baker’s Creek seeds. I am also having a problem with the fruit scalding. I’m wondering if medium heat is too high for the reduction process. I’ve turned it down to low and seem to be doing better now.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 7, 2021 at 1:35 pm

      Adding a bit of water to the pot before putting the fruit in helps prevent scalding. Then once the fruit gets hot enough to burst (or be burst via a spoon, masher, or other kitchen tool, there will be more than enough liquid to prevent scalding. Still need to stir the mix though so the fruit doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Also, to your point, turning the heat lower until the fruit bursts can also help. Hope your garden huckleberry preserves turn out well!

  • Reply
    Brytanni Parrett
    May 2, 2021 at 2:49 pm

    Hi. I think I have some of these growing in my backyard, however I’m concerned they might be deadly nightshade or some other poisonous plant. After doing some research, I’m pretty sure it’s black nightshade and read somewhere that it is toxic but after it’s boiled, the poison goes away. Just to confirm, do the berries in this recipes have green insides? When I crushed one of the berries, it kinda looked like a small tomato with tiny seeds but it’s green on the inside. Also, I handled the leaves before reading that deadly nightshade leaves could irritate your skin and so far, my skin isn’t irritated. Please help! I would really like to put these berries to use if they’re not toxic!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 3, 2021 at 9:59 am

      Hi Brytanni! Unfortunately, I don’t have a 100% clear memory of the inside color of garden huckleberries and they’re not in-season now for me to check. If my memory serves, they are dark through-and-through when ripe. Given that garden huckleberries are a rare plant from Africa, it’s unlikely to be the same plant you have growing wild in your backyard despite some physical similarities. I’d be extremely cautious with wild black nightshades since some/many of them do contain high levels of toxic compounds, some of which are not degraded by cooking. While there are wild edible black nightshades, we’ve never bothered to try to delineate or use them given the health risks.

    • Reply
      Aqualyn
      May 13, 2021 at 10:42 am

      I have tons of this growing wild in my backyard too. I forage as a hobby, so I have reference material citing it as safe to eat. The important difference between it and deadly nightshade (aside from being from different families) is the flower. Black nightshade has a white flower instead of a purple one. Another important difference is the insects love black nightshade leaves. Just make sure they are completely black before eating. If you aren’t sure what you have, finding several similar species online and learning to identify plants based on characteristics will help you be more confident.

  • Reply
    Allison
    October 18, 2020 at 2:50 pm

    Hello! I grew some of these, and you’re right, the cooked fruit is amazing.
    Can you reference the safe canning source you used for this recipe? I should have researched more before I grew them and I’m not finding much.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 19, 2020 at 8:47 am

      Hi Allison! Glad you enjoyed your garden huckleberries. I’d be happy to help, but I don’t quite understand your question – can you elaborate? We have safe canning instructions in the recipe card at the bottom of the article. You can use either Weck jars or standard canning jars – either is perfectly safe for canning/preserving if you do the water bath canning method.

      • Reply
        Allison
        October 23, 2020 at 9:04 pm

        Thanks for the reply!
        I guess I’m asking how you know it is safe. Site your sources.
        I’m looking to see if it is a tested recipe if you found guidance from a University Extension, a canning company, a book, or…?
        For example, a source like those listed here: ehttps://www.healthycanning.com/reputable-sources-for-home-canning-information/

        • Aaron von Frank
          October 26, 2020 at 3:41 pm

          Sorry, we haven’t conducted a lab analysis on this particular recipe. We’re the guinea pigs in that we’ve made and eaten this garden huckleberry preserve recipe multiple times over multiple years and continue to remain alive and healthy. 🙂 Of course, if someone isn’t comfortable canning in general or canning using the water bath method, they should avoid making this recipe or get a pressure canner to remove all doubt.

        • Karen Crusher
          October 8, 2022 at 3:39 pm

          Oh my god Allison are you really this thick, or are you an insufferable know-it-all trying to prove some ridiculous point?!? If you’re too insecure to make traditional canned preserves, just pop them in the freezer and go on with life. This is not brain surgery, but I bet you have a website link all cued up that will back you up. You people always do.

  • Reply
    Elizabeth O'Ham
    July 21, 2020 at 1:51 pm

    grew these this year from the seed available from baker creek. I was afraid they would have an unpleasant metallic flavor as many seem to report, however i am pleased to report no such flavor detected by anyone in my household. I ad a pinch of baking soda at the beginning of cooking which may help. Also for anyone interested: Commercial pectin is not necessary for a great jam! these berries have enough native pectin, when simmered with more water for about an hour, to set up into a great medium firm jam. Commercial pectin is so expensive these days, and is an industrially processed additive, that I love to stick to simpler methods when possible.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 24, 2020 at 5:46 pm

      Glad you enjoy garden huckleberry preserves as much as we do, Elizabeth! We don’t get any metallic tastes from them either. Perhaps it depends on the soil they’re grown in or other environmental factors. Thanks for the pectin tip as well.

  • Reply
    medievaldigger .
    July 16, 2020 at 4:35 pm

    Thank you for the recipe! 🙂

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 20, 2020 at 12:09 pm

      Sure! Hope you enjoy your garden huckleberry preserves. 🙂 It’s amazing how good garden huckleberries are once cooked and sweetened considering how non-exciting they are raw.

  • Reply
    Edward Snyder
    August 13, 2017 at 6:58 pm

    I have been making garden Huckleberry jelly for years. There are some steps I do prior to making the jelly. I parboil the fruit in baking soda water, then rinse several times to remove the baking soda. then I food process the berries. Lastly I strain them to take the seeds out. The resulting mix is then boiled, and strained. I repeat the process until the strained material no longer has the purple color to it. Then I boil the juice and remove any of the brown colored foam. The resulting juice mixed with lemon juice makes a very delicious jelly. It also can be mixed with another fruit such as blueberry or blackberry to make a delicious mixed berry jam. I also have saved the seeds of the largest fruit, and it has improved the size of the plants as well.

  • Reply
    Adventures in Self-Sufficiency
    October 25, 2015 at 3:10 pm

    I grew garden huckleberry for the first time this year, and am looking forward to trying this jam! Thanks for the recipe 🙂

    http://www.adventuresinselfsufficiency.com

    • Reply
      Aaron
      November 10, 2015 at 11:54 pm

      Thanks for stopping by! Just subscribed to your blog. 🙂 Hope you enjoy this recipe.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 4, 2016 at 12:59 pm

      You’re welcome! Hope you enjoy yours as much as we’ve enjoyed ours.

  • Reply
    Micaela
    October 23, 2015 at 9:10 pm

    Thanks, Aaron. 2 pints is about exactly what I got (well, I’m doing them in the smaller jam jars, but I’m guessing it’s about 2 pints’ worth). I did have a lot of scalding of the fruit, though. Are you supposed to add water during the long boiling process? Maybe I was cooking it at too high of a heat. Also, I realized after I was done cooking them that I hadn’t allowed the pectin (or maybe it was the sugar?) to fully dissolve. I’m hoping it will do so while boiling in the water bath. Have you ever had that happen before? I was wanting to save these for Christmas presents, so I don’t want to open a jar tonight just to check to make sure it dissolved. Well, at any rate–it did taste yummy!

    • Reply
      Aaron
      November 10, 2015 at 11:59 pm

      Micaela, Sorry for my delayed response! Just realized we’re not getting alerts when comments are posted. Hopefully fixed now. Yes, we add water at first to prevent scalding. Once the fruit bursts, you shouldn’t have to add any more unless your heat is too high. To prevent your pectin from clumping, quickly whisk it in a small bit of warm water in a bowl or glass to dissolve it, THEN add it to your pot of jam. Sometimes if you add the powder right to the fruit mixture it will clump. Hope things turned out well!

  • Reply
    Micaela
    October 20, 2015 at 9:54 pm

    Thanks for the information and the recipe! Can you tell me how many pints this makes?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 21, 2015 at 3:46 pm

      Micaela: Embarrassingly, we didn’t record exactly how much we made and most of it has already been eaten. Our estimate is that it will make roughly 2 pints. It may be a little under this but prep enough jars for two pints just in case. Hope you enjoy!

  • Reply
    gracie mead-rickman
    August 17, 2015 at 4:44 pm

    I ran my garden huckleberries through my food mill, which did not work well, but I got about 2 cups of juice as well as purple, turning to green foam that I eventually scooped off and washed down the sink. now what do I do with this? I did not cook my berries first which may have helped them go through my mill better. the juice is a beautiful dark purple color but I’m not sure i can proceed to make jelly or if it needs special processing or what. Anyone done this before?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 9, 2015 at 10:02 am

      @gracie_mead_rickman:disqus unlike many other physalis fruits, garden huckleberries really need to be cooked before being palatable. We also prefer not to waste skins, seeds, etc – which are all loaded with good nutrition and dietary fiber, so perhaps try the preserve recipe above to see what you think (all parts of the fruit are used)? Or just make a tasty pancaked sauce with them if you don’t want to go through the canning steps. Once cooked and sweetened, garden huckleberries are absolutely delicious; they have a blueberry-grape flavor.

      • Reply
        gracie mead-rickman
        September 9, 2015 at 7:12 pm

        Yes, about the cooking first, I learned that one too late for the first batch but live and learn….there are plenty more and I will make something tasty yet. TY for the encouragement. I’ll do jam next time!

      • Reply
        gracie mead-rickman
        December 22, 2015 at 5:30 am

        I tried again. Made jam and it was wonderful tasting and a gorgeous color. I also canned some pie filling.

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Recipes

Recipe: Soft and chewy sun-dried tomatoes

Sun-dried tomatoes at Tyrant Farms!

Got more tomatoes than you know what to do with? Make your own delicious sun-dried tomatoes that you can eat throughout the year!


Sometimes our garden creates a good problem: too much food.

We’re eating our summer garden produce as fast as we can. We’re feeding it to our ducks. We’re giving away bunches of it to friends and family. No matter what we do, the piles of food on our countertops and in our fridge and on our tables are getting big enough to pose a health hazard.

Recently, Bob the cat was nearly felled by a cascading pile of heirloom squash. After rolling in fresh catnip and taking a lengthy nap, he seemed fully recovered from the trauma.

We even made a veggie fireworks display for July 4th.

Tyrant farms' food fireworks finale

Bob von Kitten was so impressed with our 4th of July food fireworks display that he woke up from his nap (for about 20 seconds).

Every gardener needs to have a few long-term food storage methods

So, what do we do with all the extra piles of squash/zucchini, tomatoes, melonschanterelle mushrooms, beans and other produce that have piled up around Tyrant Farms? Sure, we do a good bit of canning and pickling, but most gardeners are already familiar with those food-saving methods.

For the sake of brevity, we won’t delve into ALL of our favorite long-term storage methods for each type of excess produce. For now, we’ll just share one of our favorite ways to easily store a bunch of extra tomatoes: making soft & chewy sun-dried tomatoes!

If you’ve got a bunch of extra tomatoes lying around that you don’t know what to do with, we hope you’ll find this information helpful.

Looking for a quick & easy way to store lots of extra tomatoes? 

Heirloom tomato at Tyrant Farms.

A beautiful heirloom tomato at Tyrant Farms.

We grew over 30 varieties of tomatoes this year, most of them heirlooms. One of the new hybrid varieties we’re growing is “Tumbling Tom” tomatoes. We wanted a few low-growing, cascading plants that produced huge amounts of early-ripening bite-sized tomatoes and our Tumbling Toms have done a beautiful job in this role.

 Our four Tumbling Tom tomato plants easily produce a colander-full of tomatoes per day, and they’re just getting started.

Tumbling Tom tomatoes at Tyrant Farms

A container full of Tumbling Tom tomatoes at Tyrant Farms.

These small tomatoes are perfect for “sun-drying.” We’re using quotation marks on “sun-drying” because we actually dehydrate them in our trusty Excalibur dehydrator (which takes about one day) rather than using a true sun-drying tomato method which can take over a week (or longer if it’s raining frequently).

Dehydrated sun-dried tomato recipe note…

One year we made a bunch of sun-dried tomatoes that had a great flavor profile, but they were a bit too hard and crunchy for our liking. We tweaked our method by adding olive oil to try to get a softer, chewier sun-dried tomato. We’re pleased to say, our new recipe works and tastes great!

Follow our recipe below to easily make your own sun-dried tomatoes and be sure to check out the process photos below the recipe card: 

Recipe: Soft and chewy “sun-dried” tomatoes in a dehydrator

bowl of sun dried tomatoes at Tyrant Farms
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Dehydrated soft and chewy "sun-dried" tomatoes

Course: Side Dish, Snack
Cuisine: American, Italian
Keyword: chewy dried tomatoes, dehydrated tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, tomatoes
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Dehydrator time: 2 days
Author: Aaron von Frank

A quick and easy recipe to make delicious, soft and chewy dried tomatoes that you can enjoy throughout the year. 

Ingredients

  • Vine-ripened tomatoes (any quantity)
  • Extra virgin olive oil (1 tablespoon per 5 cups chopped tomatoes)
  • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt per 5 cups chopped tomatoes

Instructions

  1. Step 1. Slice the tomatoes. 

    For small tomatoes, simply cut them in half and drop them in your bowl. Cut larger tomatoes into chunks about the size of a pingpong ball (they’ll shrink considerably when dried). See article images for ideal sizes. 

  2. Step 2. Add oil and salt.

    Once your tomatoes are all cut and in the bowl, gently toss them in olive oil (this is what helps keep the skin soft) and sea salt (for flavor and extra preservative). Optional - at this point, you can also add whatever extra herbs you’d like but we prefer to keep ours plain. 

  3. Step 3. Dry.

    Lay the tomato slices on your dehydrating racks at 125 degrees fahrenheit for about 24-48 hours. Do a taste test on your largest slices before considering them done. You do NOT want any moisture left in the tomatoes or they could turn bad during long-term storage. If you have any doubt that they're dried, continue dehydrating them. 

  4. Step 4. Cool & store.

    When they’re done, let them cool to room temperature, then store them in an air-tight jar or ziplock bag for future use. As you can see from the photos, tomatoes (like all fruits and veggies) are mostly water, so they’ll lose a huge percentage of their mass when dried.

  5. Step 5. Eat (our favorite step)! 

    We’ve eaten our sun-dried tomatoes over a year later and they still taste as good as the day they came off the rack. They’re absolutely delicious on homemade pizza, in pasta, or as a quick snack.

Pictures to help show you how to make dehydrated sun-dried tomatoes:

Sun-dried tomatoes going into the dehydrator at Tyrant Farms.

Sun-dried tomatoes going into the dehydrator at Tyrant Farms. This shows the ideal size of tomatoes when prepped for dehydration. You can pack them fairly close together because they’ll quickly lose a lot of mass as the water in their cells evaporates.

 

Hour 24: Sun-dried tomatoes at Tyrant Farms - all done!

Voila! Sun-dried tomatoes all finished up. It’s amazing how much of the fruit is composed of water.

 

Jar of sun-dried tomatoes at Tyrant Farms.

A large canning jar full of sun-dried tomatoes at Tyrant Farms. These will taste REALLY good this winter!

We hope you make and enjoy your own delicious homemade soft and chewy sun-dried tomatoes!

Recipe: Soft and chewy sun-dried tomatoes made in a dehydrator. How to dehydrate tomatoes.

Soft and chewy sun-dried tomatoes made in a dehydrator.

12 Comments

  • Reply
    Samantha
    August 20, 2023 at 8:34 pm

    Was wondering if i could put am oxygen absorber in the jar for linger storage ?

  • Reply
    Audrey
    September 5, 2022 at 7:24 am

    Could we store these in olive oil?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 5, 2022 at 11:03 am

      Yes! Olive oil is a great way to store dehydrated tomatoes. Obviously, you’ll want to use the tomatoes and oil before the oil turns, so probably ~6-12 months max.

  • Reply
    Susie Helmboldt-Jones
    October 8, 2021 at 3:35 pm

    When you say air tight jar, do you mean like when canning boiling the tomatoes in the jars until the lid seals?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 8, 2021 at 3:48 pm

      No, your sundried tomatoes don’t have to be sealed like canned goods. Simply screw on the lid, and you’re good to go. 🙂

  • Reply
    Marnie
    September 13, 2021 at 1:45 pm

    24-48 hours in a dehydrator, it appears I took mine to my Mother’s house…how long should I expect in the oven, and at what temperature?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 13, 2021 at 4:50 pm

      Hi Marnie! To make “sun dried” tomatoes in an oven, cook them on a low setting (around 250°F) for about 3 hours or until they’re to the desired level of dryness. “Done” is going to vary a bit by variety (juicy beefsteak vs dryer Roma) and the size of tomato pieces you use. It’s definitely easier to go with a dehydrator but an oven is an ok alternative. Good luck!

  • Reply
    SK
    June 3, 2020 at 2:22 pm

    When I click on the link for the “Tumbling Toms”, they do not come up on the supplier’s website. Is there another name for them? Is the large tomato in the picture one of these? Also, do you keep the jars of sundried tomatoes in the refrigerator?

  • Reply
    Amber Zenner
    September 15, 2015 at 11:30 am

    How long do these last stored in jars? I have read that the tomatoes will reabsorb moisture from the air and get moldy. Is it better to store them in the freezer?

    • Reply
      Aaron
      October 22, 2015 at 4:30 pm

      Amber: We store our sun-dried tomatoes in air tight jars and have had them last for a year. We’re not sure if they last longer than that because we’ve usually eaten them all by then. You can also add some rice in the bottom of the jars to help absorb any unwanted moisture.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      January 8, 2017 at 4:24 pm

      Sorry, Amber. Our commenting system was broken, so you might not have gotten my original reply to your comment:

      “We store our sun-dried tomatoes in air tight jars and have had them last for a year. We’re not sure if they last longer than that because we’ve usually eaten them all by then. You can also add some rice in the bottom of the jars to help absorb any unwanted moisture.”

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Gardening Recipes

5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe

5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe thumbnail

Turn your tomatillos into a delicious sauce or dip using our 5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe!


The first time we saw tomatillos many years ago, we thought “what the heck is that?” They looked like small green tomatoes wrapped in paper.

A tomatillo growing in our garden. Tomatillo in hand for size reference.

A tomatillo growing in our garden.

However, the first time we tasted tomatillos (moments after the first sighting), we knew we’d found a new life-long friend.    

Where are tomatillos from? 

Tomatillos are native to Mexico, where they were originally cultivated by the Aztecs. They’re a staple fruit south of the US border and are found in many Latin American dishes, even though they’re relatively uncommon here in the US.

Tomatillos (top left) are closely related to other well-known nightshade fruits like tomatoes and ground cherries.

Tomatillos (top left) are closely related to other well-known nightshade fruits like tomatoes and ground cherries.

What’s the difference between tomatoes and a tomatillos? 

Both tomatillos and tomatoes are in the nightshade plant family.

The differences between tomatoes and tomatillos are as follows:

  • Size – The largest tomatillo is about the size of mid-sized tomato (and nowhere near as large as a beefsteak tomato, as you can see in the picture above).
  • Husk – Tomatillos have an inedible papery husk that you remove before eating.
  • Flavor – Tomatillos and tomatoes taste different (see below). 

What Do Tomatillos Taste Like? 

The taste of tomatillos can vary depending on how you prepare them: 

Uncooked tomatillos flavor profile

Fresh uncooked tomatillos taste fruity, acidic, and sweet with notes of ‘Granny Smith’ apple and citrus, but more muted.

Dried/Dehydrated tomatillo flavor profile

The concentrated flavor of dehydrated tomatillo chips is extraordinary. They’re like tangy cake batter with the texture of a potato chip.

When we have a big harvest of tomatillos, we often use our Excalibur dehydrator to dry them into crunchy tomatillo chips. 

Cooked tomatillos flavor profile

Cooked tomatillos are richer and more mellow than raw tomatillos. They’re great in sauces, stews, and other Latin American recipes.

Tomatillos and poblano peppers: the makings for a mighty good meal. Stuffed peppers with salsa verde is hard to beat.

Tomatillos and poblano peppers: the makings for a mighty good meal. Stuffed peppers with salsa verde is hard to beat.

Growing tomatillos in your garden? Get at least two plants!  

The first time we ever tried to grow tomatillos we failed miserably.

We had one giant tomatillo plant that stayed covered with yellow flowers and bees throughout the summer… But it never set a single fruit. What the heck?

After doing a bit of online digging, we realized the source of the problem: tomatillo plants are not readily self-fertile and need another tomatillo plant for pollination.

We’ve had all-we-can-eat tomatillo harvests every summer since this initial mishap simply by growing at least two tomatillo plants in close proximity to each other.

A beautiful summer harvest of tomatillos about to get oven-roasted for a sauce.

A beautiful summer harvest of tomatillos about to get oven-roasted for a sauce.


5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe

5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe.

You’ll love our 5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe!

Perhaps our favorite thing to do with fresh summer tomatillos is to make a quick 5-minute salsa verde with uncooked tomatillos.

We then use salsa verde on pretty much everything: a dip for blue corn chips or quesadillas, a topping for grilled fish and other white meats, etc. For the record, this recipe is also great with roasted tomatillos.

*If you want roasted tomatillos salsa, simply roast your tomatillos on the grill or in a 350 degree oven until the skin is slightly brown, before proceeding with the recipe below! 

5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe
Print

5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe

Course: Appetizer, Sauce, Side Dish
Cuisine: Latin American
Keyword: fast tomatillo recipe, green salsa recipe, how to use tomatillos, salsa verde, tomatillo recipe, tomatillo salsa recipe
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Servings: 6
Author: Aaron von Frank

A fast, simple, and delicious way to turn fresh tomatillos into salsa verde (green salsa). Perfect with nachos, quesadillas, grilled fish, and more!

Ingredients

  • 2 cups ripe tomatillos
  • 1/4 cup chopped red onion
  • 3 garlic cloves hardneck garlic is best
  • 1 chile pepper or 1 tsp chili powder
  • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cilantro seed or 1 teaspoon fresh green cilantro seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole toasted mustard seed
  • 1 teaspoon organic sugar or 2 stevia leaves
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste

Instructions

  1. Blend all ingredients in a blender or food processor (yes, it's that easy!)

  2. Eat as a dip, topping on white meats, or on top of your favorite Latin American cuisines (enchiladas, tacos, etc.)

 

We hope you enjoy this delicious 5-minute tomatillo salsa verde recipe each summer!

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    Gardening

    How to grow and eat King Stropharia mushrooms

    Oscar von Kitten checking out a King stropharia patch at Tyrant Farms.

    King stropharia mushrooms are the ultimate gardener’s mushroom. Not only do they produce giant edible mushrooms, they also improve soil health and even kill root-eating nematodes! 


    Introducing the King Stropharia mushroom…

    As you may have noticed, we LOVE gourmet mushrooms, both wild-foraged and the many varieties that we cultivate on Tyrant Farms.

    Some people don’t share our passion for mushrooms. If your only exposure to edible mushrooms is the small tan & white button mushrooms that are commonly sold at grocery stores, we completely understand why you might be less than thrilled by mushrooms. After all, button mushrooms are the fungal equivalent of iceberg lettuce: a bland, tasteless medium that has to be “sauced up” to have anything resembling an interesting flavor.

    Good news: mushrooms are far more diverse than you may think and offer a staggering array of flavors: 

    • sublime and sultry morels (early spring),
    • rich & savory bi-colored boletes (summer),
    • apricot-almond flavored chanterelles (summer-fall),
    • maple syrup flavored parasols (early fall),
    • lilac-nosed blewits that offer a hint of grape (fall-winter),
    • delicate umami goodness of maitakes.

    Another edible gourmet mushroom that should be on every gardener’s list is King Stropharia, aka winecaps (Stropharia rugoso-annulata). Not only are King Stropharia mushrooms a choice edible, they also provide a host of benefits for your garden soil and plants.

    Fungi: An essential part of a garden ecosystem

    We used to think of our garden as a small geometrically-shaped space where we planted a few rows of food crops separated from the rest of our non-edible yard. Now, we view our garden as the entirety of the outdoor edible landscape, from the forest layer to the soil layer. 

    At the top end of the size scale are our fruit and nut trees. For instance, our majestic white oaks provide acorn flour. Hickory trees provide hickory nut ambrosia, and chestnuts provide a delicious starch.

    On the smaller side of the scale are our edible “weeds” from sheep sorrel to chickweed. Beneath that is the soil layer that can produce edible mushrooms and root crops. In permaculture, there are seven layers in an edible food forest system, from trees down to the soil — we think an eight should be added to include mushrooms. 

    The gardener’s mushroom: King Stropharia

    A wonderful cultivated variety of mushroom that gardeners can grow right on the ground (the soil layer) alongside their edible plants is King Stropharia (Stropharia rugoso-annulata).

    Oscar von Kitten inspects a King Stropharia bed at Tyrant Farms.

    Oscar the Cat inspects King Stropharia growing at Tyrant Farms. Yes King Stropharia mushrooms can grow to giant sizes.

    King Stropharia are native to North America and Europe. They’ve also earned the nickname “godzilla mushrooms” for obvious reasons. As you can see in the above picture, King Stropharia can grow to huge sizes.

    Our first King Stropharia “crop” of the season (usually in mid-April) produce an abundance of mushrooms that can grow to the size of dinner plates in just a few days under optimal conditions.

    King Stropharia mushrooms - Tyrant Farms

    Cut off the dense bases of your King Stropharia and put them in other wood chips bed to inoculate more beds!

    5 reasons to grow King Stropharia mushrooms

    Here are five reasons you should go King Stropharia mushrooms in your garden: 

    1. King Stropharia mushrooms taste great. 

    King Stropharias have a delicious rich mushroomy flavor with undertones of potatoes and red wine. Imagine the best flavors in a portobello mushrooms turned up to maximum.  

    2. King Stropharia mushrooms are very easy to grow. 

    King stropharia mushrooms are incredibly easy to grow. (See instructions below.) 

    3. King Stropharia mushrooms quite literally clean your soil. 

    King Stropharia mushrooms are excellent at breaking down pathogens in soil, thus helping to keep nearby waterways clean. This is known as bioremediation or mycoremediation.

    If you raise chickens, ducks, or livestock, King Stropharia can be used to help render pathogens such as E. coli bacteria inert.  

    4. King Stropharias build your soil and can even protect your plants.

    If you want good garden or farm soil, King Stropharias are a great mushroom to grow. They quickly break down biomass like wood chips, converting it into rich soil that is teeming with life. They even trap and eat certain detrimental root-eating nematodes that would otherwise damage your plants! 

    5. King Stropharia mushrooms are prolific. 

    King Stropharia can produce a lot of food in a short period of time in a relatively small space. One of our friends even grows them in plastic totes full of things like straw, wood chips, and cardboard.

    Once you get them established, you can take chunks of their mycelium and spread them to new spots around your garden, including walking paths covered with wood chips. As long as they have new carbon-rich biomass to digest, they’ll be happy. 

    Basket of King Stropharia - Tyrant Farms

    A nice basket of King Stropharia going upstairs for dinner at Tyrant Farms.

    How to grow King Stropharia mushrooms 

    King Stropharia mushrooms are vigorous and easy to grow. Here’s how:

    1. Wait until it’s no longer freezing outside or you have at least a few months before your first freeze of fall/winter. 

    2. Get King Stropharia liquid culture or spawn from a good source.

    3. Depending on whether you got a) liquid culture. or b) spawn:

    a) King Stropharia Liquid culture: Think of your liquid culture as a starter culture. You’ll be using this to start a small batch of King Stropharia that you’ll then use to start larger patches, indoors or outdoors. 

    In a small container (jars or small totes), add the liquid King Stropharia culture to sterilized media such as sterilized straw, shredded un-dyed cardboard/paper grocery bags, or hardwood wood shavings/sawdust. The medium needs to be damp (not wet) and as sterile as possible to prevent contamination by other fungi and microorganisms.

    b) King Stropharia spawn: Layer pieces of King Stropharia spawn in between 2-3″ layers of fresh hardwood wood chips or straw. Use a minimum of two layers spawn + wood chips.

    The best outdoor placement for a King Stropharia bed would receive morning light and afternoon shade. Unlike other mushrooms, King Stropharia actually LIKE sunlight, although afternoon sun can make them dry up and not grow as large.    

    4. Wait and harvest. In our area (Zone 7B in Greenville, SC), King Stropharia fruit in the early spring and again in the fall. If you start an outdoor colony in the spring, you should get your first flush of mushrooms in the fall. If you start them in the fall, you’ll get mushrooms the following spring. 

    As long as you keep feeding the colony new food (straw of hardwood chips), your King Stropharia colony can live as long as you do! 


    If you’re a gardener or gourmet mushroom connoisseur, we highly recommend you grow King Stropharia! You’ll be glad you did… and so will your garden!

     

    17 Comments

    • Reply
      Gabrielle
      September 11, 2021 at 12:11 pm

      Hello, Do you know when the “King Stropharia liquid culture” will be available on Amazon?

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        September 11, 2021 at 12:38 pm

        Hi Gabrielle! Sorry, we don’t know. You could maybe contact the seller to ask? Or try to find another seller. Apologies we can’t be more helpful on this on.

    • Reply
      JC
      May 14, 2020 at 4:35 am

      Thanks so much for the great info! I’m setting up to get started an am wondering why Stropharia needs to have hardwood shavings. Why doesn’t softwood work?
      Thanks

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        May 17, 2020 at 1:54 pm

        JC – There are probably mycologists that could really geek out on exactly why certain mushrooms prefer specific types of wood (including King stropharia). The short of it is that they definitely do have specific growth medium preferences. For instance: you’ll never get oysters or lions manes to fruit from a pine shavings/sawdust/logs. Conversely, some mushroom species only grow on pine. Each species of fungi is adapted to specific food sources due to the ecological niche they’ve filled for millions of years. It likely has to do with resins in the wood or even something to do with the cellular structure of particular trees, but we can’t say for certain. Regardless, you’ll definitely want to use hardwood chips (the fresher the better) for your King stropharia.

        • Reply
          JC
          May 17, 2020 at 2:32 pm

          Thanks for the info. I got a freshly cut and mulched beech tree delivered yesterday by an arborist. Hope my King stropharia does well on it!

          • Aaron von Frank
            May 19, 2020 at 1:10 pm

            Nice! Good find. Check back in when your King stropharia start fruiting. Might have a small flush in the fall. If not, they’ll start popping next spring.

    • Reply
      dbell5
      September 8, 2019 at 12:13 pm

      Nice article on a great mushroom! They grow beautifully in the San Francisco area.
      One edit suggestion:
      Step 3b – “afternoon shade can make the dry up”
      Shouldn’t that be “afternoon sun”?

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        September 9, 2019 at 11:48 am

        Thanks for the kind words on our King Stropharia article and thanks also for catching our mistake! Edit made.

    • Reply
      Nike Air Max Vapor Men's Training Shoe
      April 28, 2015 at 3:12 am

      Nike Air Max Vapor Men’s Training Shoe

      Many thanks for taking turns the following good content material on your internet site. I discovered it on google. I will check back again whenever you post additional aricles.

    • Reply
      Janice Kelley
      November 29, 2014 at 3:19 pm

      If you grow too many to eat at once, what is the way to preserve for later use. Dehydration?

      • Reply
        LL
        September 8, 2024 at 5:06 am

        I wish they had answered you!

        • Reply
          Susan von Frank
          September 8, 2024 at 5:56 pm

          Oops, well it’s embarrassing to respond to a question 10 years later, but we somehow missed it the first time around. Our favorite way to preserve an abundance of mushrooms (including king stropharia) for later use is to dehydrate them, then pulverize them into a powder. From there, we add them to infinite numbers of cooked recipes: soups, sauces, stews, rice, quiche, etc. Another nice thing about dried, powdered mushrooms is that they only take up a small fraction of room compared to fresh or frozen mushrooms.

    • Reply
      Jim Schmidt
      July 18, 2014 at 6:56 pm

      The more I know about King Stropharia, the better off my community will be. I’m going to teach my fellow gardeners at Roots To Shoots how much fun growing mushrooms is. Thanks for the story about the hummingbird, too!

    • Reply
      veganactivist
      August 9, 2013 at 7:19 am

      Nice post, I hope it encourages people to try mushroom cultivation. I finally got up the nerve to inoculate some king stropharia in the garden and have been enjoying my first harvest – wow! It’s very exciting. 🙂

      • Reply
        Susan
        August 9, 2013 at 2:34 pm

        Thanks! We hope so too. It’s hard for anyone to get excited about mushrooms if all they’ve ever eaten are white button mushrooms. It’s amazing how many flavors, colors and textures of mushrooms there are out there. King Stopharia is a great variety for any home gardener to grow to improve soil health, even if they don’t ever eat them. We love em!

    • Reply
      April Gordon
      April 28, 2013 at 9:07 pm

      Nice blog entry on the wonders of the fungal world. Oscar von Kitten provides useful perspective on the huge size of King Stropharia mushrooms, which presumably have no poisonous lookalikes for people to worry about. Unfortunately, some of the other tasty varieties out there are not so distinctive, and even experienced mushroom hunters have been sickened or even died from mistaken identification. Newcomers need to be especially cautious about eating any mushroom found in the wild unless they are absolutely sure of the identification of the mushroom in question.

      • Reply
        Aaron
        April 28, 2013 at 9:42 pm

        Yes, indeed. Unless someone is 100% certain about the ID of the mushroom or foraged plants they’re eating, they shouldn’t eat it. Period.

        There are plenty of “all natural” things that can make someone very ill or kill them. However, once a person is able to properly ID the various edible fungi and plants in their area (or just a few distinct varieties), it’s perfectly safe for them to enjoy the bounty. As for the King Stropharia in this post: 1) we inoculated a wood chip bed in our garden with the KS mycelium and there are no native poisonous look-alikes, 2) they have a distinct combination of identifiers between gill & cap coloration, spore print and veil. So, we were 100% confident in what we were growing and eating before they went into dinner. 🙂

        Thanks for the extra warning though! We can’t stress enough how important it is for people to make a 100% certain ID before eating any type of food, fungi or otherwise (hence the disclaimer on the bottom of this website).

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    Foraged

    The Hunt For the Elusive Morel Mushroom

    The Hunt For the Elusive Morel Mushroom thumbnail

    The hunt for the elusive morel mushroom originally appeared in Edible Upcountry Magazine. New information and pictures were added for this article.  

    At an undisclosed location in Upstate South Carolina, heavy spring morning dew clings to the delicate chickweed sprigs that blanket the forest floor. The outstretched arms of old growth hardwoods reach toward the open sky, their fingers dotted with young green and pink leaf buds. The sun rises above the west-facing ridge, sending beams of warm light darting over the forest floor, illuminating the gossamer spider tapestries throughout the understory.

    The pure majesty of this natural canvas elicits the sense that one has been magically transported into a Monet painting. However, the small group walking through this spring wonderland is seeking more than just a visual feast. They are on the hunt for one of the most coveted and rare gourmet fungi in the world: the morel mushroom.

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    4 Comments

    • Reply
      Manu Sharma
      March 17, 2016 at 12:06 am

      Another beautiful piece. Thank you Aaron. I’ve heard similar tales about foraging of Morels from people living in the upper regions of Himalayas. It is called Gucci or Gucchi mushroom here in India. It’s nice to learn that the thrill of foraging them is not constrained to this part of the world.

      Never got to taste it though. Long ago our relatives from the mountains sent us dried morels tied in a string. Not knowing what they were or how to cook them, they remained on the shelves until they went bad. How unfortunate. (Criminal, some would say).

      Another confession: Just learned that the “weed” I’ve been pulling out from between our potato rows is actually an edible plant called chickweed!

      • Reply
        Aaron
        March 21, 2016 at 4:18 pm

        Thanks Manu! Hope you have an opportunity to taste Gucci/morels at some point. They’re a wonderful fungi. And congratulations on discovering chickweed! That’s one of our absolute favorites, and we usually find it in abundance growing in areas where we look for morels. Many other common “weeds” in our area of the world are also flavorful and nutrient-dense wild vegetables as well. What a nice, free addition to a garden, for anyone willing to learn about and appreciate them!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        January 8, 2017 at 3:22 pm

        We just realized our comment system was broken, so I’m not sure if you saw my original response here: Thanks Manu! Hope you have an opportunity to taste Gucci/morels at some point. They’re a wonderful fungi. And congratulations on discovering chickweed! That’s one of our absolute favorites, and we usually find it in abundance growing in areas where we look for morels. Many other common “weeds” in our area of the world are also flavorful and nutrient-dense wild vegetables as well. What a nice, free addition to a garden, for anyone willing to learn about and appreciate them!

        • Reply
          Manu Sharma
          January 8, 2017 at 10:57 pm

          You’re right, Aaron. I just saw your comment. Thank you for inspiring me and others to lead the life you’re living. In a few months’ time we’ll have our own little abode in the farm and with it, the opportunity to spend more time co-creating a garden around it.

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    Gardening

    Fall and winter gardening tips

    Fall and winter gardening tips thumbnail

    Fall and winter gardening is possible for most people in the US. Cool and cold-season gardening is every bit as rewarding and productive as warm season gardening once you learn how, so don’t skip the season! 


    When most people think of gardening, it conjures images of warm weather and tomato plants. Sure, the spring and summer gardening seasons are amazing.

    However, over the years, we’ve come to look forward to fall and winter gardening just as much as warm-season gardening.

    A pile of delicious fall produce (purple kohlrabi, kale, perpetual spinach, and other greens, plus fresh citrus (kumquats, calamondin orange, and meyer lemons). We grow citrus in pots that we take indoors during the winter. Winter garden harvest

    A pile of delicious fall produce: purple kohlrabi, kale, perpetual spinach, and other greens, plus fresh citrus (kumquats, calamondin oranges, and meyer lemons). We grow citrus in pots even during the winter.

    Why? During the cool seasons (October – March in our Ag Zone), there are virtually no plant diseases or pest insects to deal with. Plus, watering and maintenance is also drastically reduced.

    As long as it rains once every couple of weeks, we don’t even bother to water our fall/winter crops.

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      Recipes

      Recipe: Aioli – Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise

      This Aioli Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise recipe is simple to make and only has a handful of ingredients. However, once you taste it, you’ll never buy store-bought mayonnaise again!


      How to make your own Aioli Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise 

      This is a New York Times-inspired recipe for a kitchen staple: mayonnaise. Or, if you want to be all fancy-pants, Garlic Aioli: Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise. Once you’ve had homemade, you’ll never go back. Promise.

      We needed some mayo the other night to make some Tyrant Farms Thai Red Curry Slaw using the cabbage, broccoli, and kohlrabi trimmings from our garden. Since we try not to keep pre-processed junk food in the house, that meant we had no mayo in the pantry.

      With about 3-4 lbs of succulent leafy greens needing a new home in a big bowl of slaw, we had no choice but to whip up some of our homemade garlic mayonnaise.

      The trick to delicious homemade mayonnaise? Technique. 

      This is a ridiculously simple recipe, but it is more time-consuming than getting out that big blah-flavored jar of grocery store mayo.

      The trick to good mayonnaise (or Aioli, if you prefer to leave out the vinegar and use it as a sauce) is making sure that the oil emulsifies with the egg…

      • Oil + Egg emulsified together = yum.
      • Oil + Egg not emulsified together = Oil + Egg semi-mixed floating together in a bowl with some bits of garlic. Not yum.

      Once we mastered this simple recipe, we almost always have a small jar of Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise in the fridge. It’s great for use in coleslaw, sandwiches, and veggie dips.

      We have detailed instructions in the recipe below, but one tool that REALLY helps make this recipe easy is an emersion blender. We can’t recommend our Swiss-made Bamix immersion blender enough. It’s incredibly well made, comes with a lifetime warranty, and we’ve used it at least once per day in our kitchen for years.   

      How to use your garlic aioli: provençal garlic mayonnaise

      Our personal favorite use of this recipe is for a cool, fall or winter meal… Chop root veggies (beets, onions, turnips, potatoes, rutabagas, etc) into 1″ squares, then toss them in a bowl with extra virgin olive oil and pink sea salt until evenly coated. Put them in a pre-heated 350° oven for about 20-30 minutes, or until they’re soft all the way through with a fork + slightly browned.

      Once removed, let them cool for a few minutes then serve them on a platter with a bowl of Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise in the middle for use as a dipping sauce. So. Dang. Good.

      No matter how you decide to use your Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise, you’ll absolutely love the flavor it provides. You’ll also enjoy knowing that your own homemade mayo was created with love using all healthy ingredients that you can pronounce.

      One last tip: this recipe is way easier and faster to make if you use an immersion blender. Our personal fave is the Swiss-made Bamix immersion blender, which we use almost daily since we cook a lot. An immersion blender is far easier to use and clean than a food processor, and will quickly become your favorite kitchen tool!

      Print

      Recipe: Aioli (Provençal Garlic Mayonnaise) aka "Mayo"

      Course: Sauce
      Keyword: Aioli, garlic mayonnaise, mayonnaise
      Prep Time: 10 minutes
      Author: Susan von Frank

      A simple but exquisitely delicious mayonnaise recipe. You'll never buy store-bought mayo again! Use it just as you would regular mayonnaise or as a stand-alone dip for fresh or roasted veggies. 

      Ingredients

      • 4-8 Cloves garlic
      • 2 duck or chicken eggs or 4 Egg Yolks - 100% yolks will yield a creamier, richer sauce
      • 1 C. safflower or grapeseed oil
      • 1 C. extra virgin olive oil *if you use duck eggs, you may need a bit more oil since duck eggs tend to be larger than chicken eggs
      • 1/4 tsp paprika
      • 1/4 tsp cayenne
      • 1/4 tsp dried mustard
      • salt to taste
      • 2-4 Tbsp white vinegar or fresh lemon juice

      Instructions

      1. Chop up your garlic and put it in a mortar and pestle. Smash it until it's a creamy paste. A pinch of sea salt sometimes aids the process. The goal is to get the flavor infused throughout the mayonnaise (sliced garlic chunks or a regular garlic smasher won't accomplish this nearly as well as a creamy garlic paste will).


        As mentioned above the recipe a Bamix immersion blender can be used to really speed up this recipe and get great results. If you don't have an immersion blender, just stick with the manual recipe instructions! 

      2. This next step is where the time-consuming part begins... but it's SO IMPORTANT that you do it right, or you'll end up with egg + oil, not mayo. 


        If you used a mortar & pestle in step 2, you'll probably need to transfer everything to a bigger glass bowl before you begin. VERY slowly, start to whisk the 1C Safflower or Grapeseed oil into your egg and garlic mixture. It's best to start with the lighter oils because they emulsify better than a heavier oil like olive oil. Again, an immersion blender will help speed up the process considerably. Otherwise, you can use good ole manual labor and a whisk. 

        About 1/2 C oil in, you'll start to notice the oil emulsifying with the egg and the mixture will start to stiffen. It's very rewarding! Keep going, slowly adding more oil, until it's done. 

      3. Once you've added in the first cup of oil, slowly begin whisking/blending in the additional 1C of extra virgin olive oil. You don't have a to go as slowly with the olive oil as you did with the first cup, but I do recommend keeping it to a slow, steady stream. By the time you're done you should have a nice, stiff, creamy sauce.

      4. At this point, you've got the base for your Aioli and your Mayo. The main difference between the two is the addition of Vinegar. If your goal is to have a Garlic Aioli, simply mix in your salt, other spices and some lemon juice - refrigerate, and serve.
      5. If you're trying to make Garlic Mayonnaise, slowly add in a small amount of Vinegar to your base, stir, and taste. Adjust accordingly. <em>Remember:</em> you can always add more, but you can't take away. Patience, grasshopper, patience. Once you have the proper amount of tang, add in any additional desired spices and/or lemon juice, refrigerate, and use as needed.

      Recipe Notes

      For a Thai take on things, red or green curry paste (~2 Tbsp) or curry powder is delicious! The mayonnaise pictured above has red curry & paprika added. For tartar sauce, add some minced onion and 2Tbsp of sweet relish. Experiment. Try different flavorings to make fun sandwich spreads. The main thing is to be creative and enjoy!

      You now have yummy mayo or aioli that you can use as a dipping sauce or as an ingredient in tons of other great recipes. Try it as a base in our Thai red curry slaw!

      Let us know how your homemade mayo or aioli turned out, and what you used it on.

      KIGI,

      Other garlic articles to spice up your life:

      3 Comments

      • Reply
        Nola Connor
        November 21, 2021 at 4:57 pm

        I am IN LOVE with all of your recipes! This one is divine! I eat it by the spoonful straight out of the container. I am SO HAPPY that I wandered onto you online (thanks to your black garlic dehydrator recipe). Keep publishing your unique food items!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          November 22, 2021 at 12:39 pm

          Thanks once again, Nola! We love this aioli recipe too. Pretty hard to go back to store-bought mayo after tasting homemade aioli. Using it for a roasted root veggie dip is one of our absolute favorite fall/winter dishes.

      • Reply
        Recipe: Tyrant Farms Thai Red Curry Slaw - Tyrant Farms
        November 12, 2012 at 9:04 pm

        […] C Tyrant Farms Garlic Mayonnaise (we add organic white wine vinegar & a small amount of fresh lemon juice to our base as it […]

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      Recipes

      Recipe: 10-minute authentic flour tortillas

      Recipe: 10-minute authentic flour tortillas thumbnail
       

      Here’s a quick, easy, delicious flour tortilla recipe that uses simple, whole ingredients. You’ll never have to buy tortillas from the store again. 


      We love tasting each season.

      Our quality of life and the quality of food we eat has drastically improved over the years as we’ve adapted our diets to what’s ripe in our garden, the woods, or from our local farming friends. We feel better, our food tastes better, and we have a much deeper connection to the journey our little blue planet is taking around the sun each year.

      In the height of summer gardening season, we eat a lot of Latin American-inspired cuisines. With piles of peppers, tomatoes, tomatillos, coriander seeds, and other warm weather goodies piling up on the counter, Latin American cuisine provides a great way to put that produce to work. And that also means we have to know how to make authentic tortillas from scratch… 

      Foods for every season, including tortillas  

      One form of carbohydrate we eat throughout all seasons is wheat. We do a lot of sourdough bread baking in our cob oven, and during the summer, we also make a lot of quick flatbreads and tortillas in a cast iron skillet on our stovetop.

      Mmm! Tortillas hot out of the cast iron skillet.

      Mmm! Tortillas hot out of the cast iron skillet.

      When you’re acutely aware of where your food comes from, you begin to appreciate it on a level that’s hard to explain to a fast-fooder. Wasting food becomes a desecration. No food goes into the trash. Food scraps that aren’t eaten are either recycled via our worm bin or via hot composting, so that they can become new soil which will then become new food. And the cycle repeats.

      The Inconvenience and High Cost of Eating Out

      Once you know how to cook, it’s far easier, faster, and more affordable to make your own food at home—eating out becomes an expensive inconvenience that often makes you disappointed due to the quality of what you get.

      Homemade sweet potato latkes with apple butter. Good for any meal (including second breakfast).

      Homemade sweet potato latkes with apple butter. Good for any meal (including second breakfast).

      Getting dressed, driving, sitting, ordering, waiting… then the food comes and 9 out of 10 times you know that you could have made a better meal at home in a fraction of the time at a fraction of the cost while using better ingredients. Ugh.

      That’s why we highly recommend learning how to cook. And if you have a yard, why not use that spot to also grow some delicious, organic food for you and your family while providing safe, non-toxic habitat for bees, butterflies, frogs, and other critters?

      Food Has a Story to Tell. Are You Listening?

      If you learn to cook various ethnic cuisines, you can also enjoy a portal into a different time and place similar to the way that a good book transports you out of your own world and into someone else’s. Why did they use this ingredient instead of something else? What was the cultural significance of the dish? How did they discover that these particular spices would pair so well together? What was happening in their country or village when their family ate this meal?

      We also love southeast Asian cuisines, which is one of the reasons we grow lemongrass. Lemongrass isn't native to the Americas, but it can be grown as an annual or perennial plant depending on the agricultural zone you live in.

      We also love southeast Asian cuisines, which is one of the reasons we grow lemongrass. Lemongrass isn’t native to the Americas, but it can be grown as an annual or perennial plant depending on the agricultural zone you live in.

      We’ve learned an incredible amount about food by simply researching the history of individual ingredients. We love knowing the incredible “grow journey” those ingredients have been on before they arrived on our plate. 😉

      Back to tortillas…

      We used to make them with extra virgin olive oil. They were pretty good. However, olive trees are native to the Mediterranean region and tortillas are a Latin American food. Traditional tortillas were made from corn (which is native to the Americas), and the people making them weren’t using non-native olive oil as an ingredient; they were using animal fat. Even though wheat is originally from the Mediterranean region (not the Americas), it’s been incorporated into Central American cuisines for hundreds of years now. So people from these cultures have been making flour tortillas with animal fat for a few hundred years—and they’ve gotten really, really good at it.

      What would be a good source for high-quality animal *fat? We happen to have access to some amazingly good thick-cut bacon from pastured pigs that we eat from time to time. Rather than throw out the leftover fat from the pan, we save it in a canning jar and use it in other dishes. Why waste it?

      (*Note: If you’re thinking: “isn’t animal fat bad for me?” Despite the nutritional advice we all received for the past few decades, new medical researcher has shown that animal fat isn’t bad for you—especially if you’re getting protein and fat from healthy, pastured animals.) If you’re interested, we dive deeper into this topic in our interview with a nutrition scientist.

      The left over bacon fat mentioned above is the secret ingredient to these amazingly delicious, and truly authentic, 10 Minute Authentic Flour Tortillas. (If you’re a vegetarian or vegan, you could probably substitute raw coconut oil for the bacon fat.)

      How good are these tortillas? The first time we made them, The Tyrant’s exact words were “The internet needs to know about this.”

      And now, internet, here is the recipe you need to know about…

      Step-by-step: Making 10 minute authentic flour tortillas

      *10 minutes is the amount of time it should take you to prep the dough once you’ve gotten the hang of the recipe. As the instructions below state, you still need to let the dough rest, roll it out, and cook the tortillas, so the total time from start to meal is likely to be about 45+ minutes. If you’re hungry, don’t rest your dough as long as recommended in the instructions.   

      Authentic Flour Tortillas – Picture Guide

      If you’re like us, it helps to see something when you’re learning it for the first time. The recipe is at the end of the post; the photos below will help you as you’re making this recipe:

      1. Here’s a look at the ingredients you’ll need for this authentic flour tortilla recipe. Also, notice the “pastry blender” on the bottom left. A pastry blender is a must-have tool if you make a lot of pastries, pie crusts, tortillas, etc. It lets you work and cut the dough without heating it with your hands, which changes its consistency.

      A look at the ingredients you'll need for this recipe. | www.tyrantfarms.com

      2. This is what the dough should like during step 1 on the instructions when all of the dry ingredients + the fat have been added, but BEFORE you add the warm water. Notice the pieces are coming together into small crumbly balls.

      During step 1 before warm water is added. | www.tyrantfarms.com

      And a closer look:

      Crumbly tortilla dough before water is added. | www.TyrantFarms.com

      3. This is what the dough should look like AFTER you’ve added the warm water, worked it, and brought all the ingredients together.

      The dough at the end of step 1. | www.TyrantFarms.com

      4. This is what the dough should like when cut into pieces during step 3. 

      Dough during step 3. | www.TyrantFarms.com

      5. Time to cook! Don’t panic when you see small or large bubbles forming on your tortillas as you cook them. This is normal and the bubbles will deflate as soon as you remove them from the heat.

      Tortilla cooking. Check out that bubble! | www.TyrantFarms.com

      And another one:

      Tortilla cooking. | www.TyrantFarms.com

      6. Now comes the part you’ve been waiting for! Time to serve and eat…

      Authentic homemade flour tortilla recipe.

      Done: homemade tortillas just out of the skillet.

      *These tortillas are delicious as-is, but they can also be used for dipping, tapas, or—our personal favorite—as the wrapping for a homemade quesadilla. We’ll have our quesadilla recipe coming soon!

      Homemade quesadillas with garden-fresh salsa. We use the tortillas from this recipe to make our quesadillas.

      Homemade quesadillas with garden-fresh salsa. We use the tortillas from this recipe to make our quesadillas.


      recipe: authentic flour tortillas
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      10 Minute Authentic Flour Tortillas

      Course: Dinner, lunch
      Cuisine: Latin American
      Keyword: authentic tortilla, bacon fat tortilla, tortilla recipe
      Prep Time: 10 minutes
      Cook Time: 5 minutes
      Resting time: 30 minutes
      Total Time: 50 minutes
      Servings: 8
      Author: Aaron von Frank

      A quick, easy, authentic flour tortilla recipe. You'll never have to buy tortillas from the store again!

      Ingredients

      • 2 cups organic all-purpose flour or 1 cup whole wheat / 1 cup all-purpose
      • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
      • 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
      • 3 tablespoons left over bacon fat or lard *use grass-finished animal fat
      • 3/4 cups warm water ~110°F; tap water is fine

      Instructions

      1. Add flour, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl. Whisk or stir together. Using a pastry blender, cut bacon fat into flour mixture (you can use your hands if you don't have a pastry blender, but this can warm the dough too much if you handle it too much). Mixture should look like coarse crumbs once fully incorporated. Next, add warm water. Work the dough with your pastry blender or hands until all ingredients have come together and no dry flour remains.
      2. Place finished dough onto a lightly floured surface (countertop, large cutting board, etc.). Knead the dough by hand for about 1 minute, or until smooth. Cover the dough with a lightly damp cloth or plastic wrap and allow it to rest for about 10 minutes.
      3. Cut dough into 8 equal pieces, then roll each piece into a ball. Preheat cast iron pan or griddle to medium heat (we set our stove to ~3-4, but every stove is different). Place one ball of dough on a lightly floured surface and work into the shape of a flat circle with your hands. Next, use a rolling pin to roll out the dough into an 8-inch round circular shape.
      4. Before placing dough into the pan, coat the pan with a teaspoon or more of bacon fat. Place dough in pan and cook until bubbles form on the visible side and the underneath has begun to brown. This happens very quickly (usually a minute or less), so be careful not to overcook. Flip and cook the other side until lightly browned. Transfer tortilla to a plate or cookie sheet, then cover with clean dish towel or foil. If you're making lots of them, put them in your stove on "keep warm" setting". Repeat the cooking steps with remaining balls of dough. These are best served immediately while still warm and slightly soft!

      We hope you enjoy these flour tortillas as much as we do! 

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        Gardening Recipes

        Can you eat watermelon seeds?

        Can you eat watermelon seeds? thumbnail
        https://tyrant.s3.amazonaws.com/Img/Tyrant%20Farms%20-%20Blog/September%202015/tyrantfarms-cooked-watermelon-seeds-fi.jpg

        Yes, watermelon seeds are edible — in some cultures they’re even more valued as a food than the fruit! Here’s how to grow and eat your own watermelon seeds.


        When I was a kid, I remember my grandmother telling me that if I ate watermelon seeds, they’d sprout in my stomach and grow out of my ears. Although this sounded a bit terrifying, my curiosity got the better of me: I ate watermelon seeds every time I got the chance.

        Mmm. Nothing beats homegrown organic watermelon on a hot summer day! Make sure to save those watermelon seeds for cooking and for growing watermelon in future years.

        Mmm. Nothing beats homegrown organic watermelon on a hot summer day! Make sure to save those watermelon seeds for cooking and for growing watermelon in future years.

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        12 Comments

        • Reply
          Michele Pace
          June 1, 2022 at 12:02 am

          I’m so happy to see this recipe and all of the great comments. Love watermelon and growing them now I can use it all with no waste. I can’t believe I never knew about eating the seeds no one has ever mentioned roasting them to me nor have I seen it in any recipe books before. Wow! They are so good for you in so many ways too. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 1, 2022 at 11:33 am

            Thanks Michele! Yes, watermelon seeds are a nice secondary edible part of the fruit (which is technically a berry). There is some variability between watermelon varieties when it comes to size or seed, toughness, etc. but all are edible. Enjoy!

        • Reply
          Riya Agrawal
          December 9, 2021 at 11:02 am

          Wow awesome recipe, I use true elements raw watermelon seeds for this, and it was really good. The recipe tastes yum!

        • Reply
          Tacita Wallace
          May 24, 2018 at 10:57 am

          As it is now watermelon season and both myself and my 2yr old are loving them – what are the thinner white pip like seeds in the watermelon. Are they of any risk?

          The large black seeds i can pick out, but these smaller ones are a lot harder

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 29, 2018 at 10:50 am

            The small white seeds are just immature seeds that never fully developed before the fruit ripened. Perfectly safe to eat them as well although they’re flavorless.

        • Reply
          Lucia Giesler
          November 2, 2017 at 4:10 am

          Hi Aaron, I’m inspired by your writing about watermelon seeds and keen to sprout my own, but find no guidance on how to do it. Can you help me please?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            November 2, 2017 at 8:43 pm

            Hi Lucia! Are you interested in sprouting watermelon seeds to grow mature plants or sprouting them to eat as sprouts? Assuming you’re interested in growing watermelons as plants in your garden, they’re actually really easy to start and grow. As with other large seeds in the cucurbit family (summer squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc) we recommend direct-sowing them in the ground about 1″ below the soil surface.

            • Reply
              Lucia Giesler
              November 3, 2017 at 2:24 am

              Nope, I want to sprout them for eating….

              • Aaron von Frank
                November 14, 2017 at 5:27 pm

                Hmm, I’ve never heard of anyone eating watermelon sprouts. There probably aren’t any compounds in the young plants that would cause averse and/or allergic reactions, but you may want to take it slow at first by only eating a few sprouts your first time to see how your body responds. I’d just follow basic sprouting instructions for other large seeds, such as sunflower seeds, that are sometimes grown for edible sprouts.

        • Reply
          cielo
          August 5, 2017 at 12:25 pm

          Hi. Is it ok if I ate a watermelon with the seed inside it? no chewing them.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            August 8, 2017 at 3:52 pm

            Sure! There’s absolutely no risk in eating watermelon seeds. They’re quite healthy: high in protein and fiber. And they will not sprout out of your ears if you eat them.

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          September 17, 2015 at 4:36 pm

          Below is an interesting comment that was shared with us via email by Alan Morse. Alan gave us permission to share:

          “Had to pass this on: Have a daughter and multiple friends from China. Of course, watermelon seeds are often served as a “dessert” course after meals in China. One friend recalled fond memories of going out to farms with her family during watermelon harvesting season. The farmers would let anyone eat his/her fill of melon at no charge…on one condition. They had to leave all the seeds behind. The seeds were the cash crop, and the families feasting on watermelon helped separate the seeds. (No seed spitting contests there!)

          One more comment: Don’t be tempted to look on this as a “Chinese” cultural practice. It’s a huge geographically and culturally diverse country of 1.3 billion people, and this was a practice among only one small piece of that vast multitude of people.”

        Leave a Reply

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        Gardening

        How to grow strawberry plants from runners

        Oscar von Kitten with a strawberry runner - Tyrant Farms

        Want to turn one strawberry plant into a garden full of strawberry plants? Learn how to grow strawberries from runners.


        Strawberries. We’ve never met anyone who doesn’t like ’em.

        Eating a perfectly ripe strawberry freshly warmed by the sun’s rays is the perfect way to eat a strawberry. The only thing that makes that experience any better is when you happen to be picking those strawberries in your own yard or garden, knowing that there is not a single drop of pesticide on them.

        Using strawberry plants as a ground cover

        Strawberries also make an attractive, edible ground cover in an edible landscape. You can put them in your front yard beds or under your fruit trees.

        We also recommend growing a few different strawberry varieties:

        Strawberry varieties we grow and enjoy:

        • several old European varieties with small fruit whose flavor is 10x more intense than our large hybrid varieties;
        • ever-bearing hybrid varieties so we get fruit in the spring and another smaller crop when the weather cools back down in the late summer-fall;
        • our native Fragaria virginiana which also produces an intensely delicious small red fruit;
        • Yellow Wonder Wild Strawberry” that produces a small yellow fruit that tastes like tropical fruit punch (*this variety does NOT produce runners). 
        One of the strawberry beds at Tyrant Farms.

        A nice ground cover of strawberry plants in a bed at Tyrant Farms.

        What are strawberry runners?

        If you’ve ever grown strawberries, you probably know that they can spread really quickly. They accomplish this feat by sending out above-ground “runners” throughout the summer growing season.

        Runners basically look like a strawberry tentacle. As the runners grow, a cluster of small leaves form on their tips, and new roots start growing from the base. Once those roots set and the leaves mature, voila!

        A new strawberry plant is born. The following year, the plant will produce fruit. 

        A strawberry runner looking for a place to call home at Tyrant Farms.

        A strawberry runner looking for a place to call home in a rock wall at Tyrant Farms.

        Strawberry runners take a lot of energy out of the “mother plant.” If your strawberries are in a confined bed or planter where there isn’t enough room for new strawberry plants, you don’t want these runners taking energy away from the mother plant thereby making the mother’s fruit smaller.

        Nor do you want a bunch of new strawberry plants in a tight space (like a pot) because you can cause them all to become root-bound. For that reason, it’s common for gardeners to trim off and discard their strawberry runners.

        Not so fast if you want or need more strawberry plants and you have the space!

        A home-grown Tyrant Farms strawberry full of flavor and warm afternoon sun.

        A homegrown Tyrant Farms strawberry full of flavor and warm afternoon sun. Who does’t want more strawberries in their life? 

        How to grow new strawberry plants for FREE from runners

        If you have other garden beds where you’d like to add strawberry plants, you can easily grow all the strawberries you’ll ever want for FREE starting from a single plant. Here’s how:

        Step 1: Identify the strawberry runners. 

        Look for strawberry runners that are growing in places where you don’t want new strawberry plants to take root.

        A strawberry growing out in the path at Tyrant Farms

        A strawberry runner growing out into a stone walking path at Tyrant Farms. These are ideal for turning into new strawberry plants!

        Step 2: Pot & pin your strawberry runners. 

        When you find a runner with a small, leafy growth tip and starter roots, put a small seedling pot underneath the growth tip and firmly set the roots into the soil. Do NOT cut the runner leading back to the mother plant… yet.

        To keep the new pinned runner plant from popping out of the soil before it sets roots, use a u-shaped pin or a thin flexible stick to hold the roots down in the pot.

        The Strawberry Clip

        Potting and pinning a strawberry runner using a twig to hold it in place so it can set roots.  

        Step 3: Cut the cord.

        Once the new roots are well established in the pot (meaning a light pull on the tip doesn’t pull up the new plant) you can “cut the cord.”

        Simply take a pair of clippers and cut the runner connecting the growth tip to the mother plant. If you’re nervous about doing this step too early, you can just wait to cut the cord until the connecting runner has turned brown, which indicates that the new plant is getting all the nutrition it needs from its own roots, not the mother plant.

        Step 4: Plant & share. 

        Plant your new strawberry plants in new locations throughout your yard, garden, or farm. These little potted strawberry plants also make great gifts. 

        A Strawberry Runner taking off through some low growing Dianthus.

        A strawberry runner taking off through some low growing dianthus.

        We hope this tip helps you fill your world with new strawberry plants and feed your strawberry addiction!  

        KIGI,

         

        3 Comments

        • Reply
          Amanda
          May 5, 2015 at 8:50 pm

          We have our berries in raised beds with plastic mulch, would it work to cut the tips off and plant in flats until well rooted or would they die? Thank you!

        • Reply
          rushin2
          August 22, 2014 at 3:20 pm

          Very nice blog! We had lots of strawberry runners this year, but so limited on space to plant them…

        • Reply
          veganactivist
          August 15, 2014 at 8:31 am

          Thanks for the tip! That is a very clean and clever way to propagate strawberries.

        Leave a Reply

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        In Depth

        A Response to Slate Magazine on GMOs & Biotech

        A Response to Slate Magazine on GMOs & Biotech thumbnail

        Recently, Slate Magazine’s Will Saletan wrote an article which essentially castigated those who think organic agriculture has beneficial attributes when compared to conventional agriculture. The article also aimed to shame people who express broader concerns about some of the primary tools used by biotech companies: namely synthetic pesticides and herbicides and genetically engineered crops, aka GMOs (an umbrella term which includes cisgenic, transgenic and other gene-altering technologies).

        It’s a well-researched and well-written article that’s definitely worth a read (apparently it took the author and several interns a year to write). Unfortunately, it’s also wrong and/or misleading on several critical points.

        Cropduster spraying pesticides.jpg
        Pesticides being applied on crops by crop-dusting plane. Image credit: USDA Photo by: Charles O’Rear – http://www.usda.gov/oc/photo/95cs2841.htm – Image Number:95c2841 CD0623-027, Public Domain, Link

        The most glaring hole is the article’s third claim “Organics are not safer” than conventionally grown foods. The author cites the commonly used bioinsecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) as the sole supporting evidence for this sweeping generalization.

        At best, this argument construct might be called a part-to-whole fallacy or “fallacy of composition.” At worst, it’s cherry-picking a single data point in order to construct an argument that would not hold up to broader scrutiny.

        So, let’s take a closer look to see if good scientific research supports this broad claim.

        Conventional vs Organic Food & Food Production

        First, let’s take a look at Consumer Reports’ recently released analysis of the huge array of pesticides you’re likely to find on conventional grocery store produce and not on the equivalent organic produce (which is why the average American has 29 different pesticides in their bodies). Click here to view the full report.

        Using 12 years of USDA data, Consumer Reports analyzed 48 different varieties of common grocery store produce and broke each one into different risk categories depending on the type and amount of pesticides found. If you don’t want to read the full report, their conclusions can be summed up by these statements:

        Experts at Consumer Reports believe that organic is always the best choice because it is better for your health, the environment, and the people who grow our food… We recommend buying organic for any produce-country combination in the medium or higher risk categories. We found that all organic produce falls into the low- or very low-risk categories.

        As noted in the report, exposure to many of these pesticides are especially risky at key stages in prenatal and early childhood development. When you also factor in the combination of multiple pesticide interactions and long-term exposure, that further increases health risks.

        Meanwhile, in the highly esteemed British Journal of Medicine, Barański et al. published a meta-analyses in September 2014 combining data from 343 other peer-reviewed research studies to quantify any measurable differences between organic and conventional produce.

        Their findings are well-summarized in the paper’s abstract:

        …statistically significant and meaningful differences in composition between organic and non-organic crops/crop-based foods. Most importantly, the concentrations of a range of antioxidants such as polyphenolics were found to be substantially higher in organic crops/crop-based foods, with those of phenolic acids, flavanones, stilbenes, flavones, flavonols and anthocyanins being an estimated 19 (95 % CI 5, 33) %, 69 (95 % CI 13, 125) %, 28 (95 % CI 12, 44) %, 26 (95 % CI 3, 48) %, 50 (95 % CI 28, 72) % and 51 (95 % CI 17, 86) % higher, respectively. Many of these compounds have previously been linked to a reduced risk of chronic diseases, including CVD and neurodegenerative diseases and certain cancers, in dietary intervention and epidemiological studies. Additionally, the frequency of occurrence of pesticide residues was found to be four times higher in conventional crops, which also contained significantly higher concentrations of the toxic metal Cd. Significant differences were also detected for some other (e.g. minerals and vitamins) compounds. There is evidence that higher antioxidant concentrations and lower Cd concentrations are linked to specific agronomic practices (e.g. non-use of mineral N and P fertilisers, respectively) prescribed in organic farming systems. In conclusion, organic crops, on average, have higher concentrations of antioxidants, lower concentrations of Cd and a lower incidence of pesticide residues than the non-organic comparators across regions and production seasons.

        So, when you look beyond the single biopesticide Bt, as the author(s) of the Slate article failed to do, you get a much different picture of organic vs. conventional foods. It’s quite clear that there are indeed far greater risks of pesticide exposure from eating conventional versus organic produce, despite claims to the contrary. Not to mention, organic foods come with the added benefits of offering greater nutrient density without the risk of Cadmium (Cd) poisoning. As we’ve discussed elsewhere, this means you get more nutrition from less calories when you eat organic foods, the opposite of “calorie inflation.”

        The reasons for the benefits of organic food aren’t magical in origin. If you have a basic understand of soil ecology and the differences between the way organic farmers and conventional farmers treat their soil and grow their plants, you understand why plants grown in well-managed organic soils teeming with microbial life are going to inevitably produce healthier, safer foods.

        In aggregate, organic farmers are better utilizing the biological systems that allow forests and other functional ecosystems to grow better, stronger, more resilient and more biodiverse each year with zero human input. The plant’s DNA operating within that system is an important part of the equation, but it’s not the solution to the equation. 

        Hysteria

        We generally agree with the overall point of the article that there is a lot of unnecessary and/or unsubstantiated hysteria around GE/GMOs. This doesn’t help the cause of those rightfully seeking to transition civilization’s agricultural model from the destructive, chemically-intensive/dependent industrial model to an ecologically rational, regenerative agroecological/permaculture model. (In our opinion, these are the best approaches under the broad “organic” umbrella.)

        Personally, we don’t want to support rapacious agricultural practices, so our food comes from one of three sources:

        1. certified organic food at grocery stores,
        2. food from farmers we know and trust, or
        3. food we grow using permaculture methods or food we wild forage.

        By default, that means that GMO foods don’t end up in our grocery baskets. GMO plants/seeds are not permitted under USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) guidelines and there are currently no GMO home gardening seeds available. If you live in the US, can’t grow your own food, but want to avoid GMO foods, simply buy USDA certified organic foods.

        All but a tiny fraction of genetically engineered foods in this country are Roundup-Ready corn and soy, and most of those products go to feed our cars (ethanol) and to quickly fatten the sick, antibiotic-laden animals at Confined Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs), one of the worst design errors humans have ever conceived of. The GE corn and soy grown for human consumption mostly goes into making the “cheap” highly processed junk and fast foods that you shouldn’t be eating much (or any) of anyway.

        Confined-animal-feeding-operation.jpg
        Cows in a concentrated animal feeding operation (CAFO). Image credit: original uploader was SlimVirgin at en.wikipedia – U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Region 7 Office, Kansas City, KS. “What is a CAFO?”, Public Domain, Link

        Whether you’re vehemently for or against GMOs, if the option is available to you, we highly recommend growing some of your own food. The hands-on knowledge that can only be obtained through actually growing food (rather than approaching the subject abstractly) seems to be something that is sorely lacking by those most vocally shouting from the sidelines on both sides of these often heated discussions.

        Yes, even highly specialized industry scientists have their minds blown (and changed) once they experience the soil food web working firsthand. On the other side, frothy-mouthed urban environmentalists may realize that growing large quantities of food isn’t as simple as slapping a seed in the ground and coming back to harvest it a few months later.

        Contrary to the narrative of the Slate article, fringe environmental groups aren’t the only party guilty of hysterics. Claims made by conventional ag proponents have been equally outlandish over the years. The track record of the major industry players (initial safety and performance claims vs. long-term findings by independent researchers) would be enough to embarrass the much-maligned Food Babe, and certainly enough to make any critically thinking person a little suspicious of new claims made by the same parties.

        Claims versus reality

        The general pattern is this:

        1. New product/tech is launched with massive PR campaign and little/no/insufficient independent testing conducted (other than internal tests done by those selling the product).

        2. Independent public sector/university scientists find a huge previously unrecognized problem with the product often as a result of new/better understandings of complex biological systems – often many years (or decades) after the product has been in public use.

        3. Company and/or industry groups launch smear and fear campaigns against the scientists and their findings, often using the same public relations and marketing firms that honed their craft defending the cigarette, oil, asbestos, lead, etc industries from public scrutiny.

        4. A decade or so later, the product is unceremoniously removed from the market and replaced with a “new and better” miracle product. Then the cycle repeats.

        See Dust Bowl and the “rain follows the plow” claims that perpetuated the worst man-made environmental disaster in US history, DDT, Agent Orange, atrazine, synthetic nitrogen fertilizer, neonicotinoids, etc. for a handful of examples of this pattern.

        This isn’t necessarily because the people/companies creating these things are evil or bad. They probably mean well and have very noble aims, even if they’re being driven by management’s relentless drive to increase quarterly earnings for their shareholders. As Dr. John Vandemeer (Evolutionary Biologist at Michigan) and others have pointed out, these preventable mistakes often result from specialists working within a reductionistic framework—e.g. they can’t see outside of their specific area of expertise in order to grasp the larger context in which they’re operating or the damage they’re causing in areas they know nothing about.

        A Genetic Analogy

        The Human Genome Project — in which the full genome of human beings was mapped for the first time — was an incredible and very important scientific feat. However, relative to its initial hype, it was also a rather colossal failure.

        At the time, many geneticists thought that decoding the human genome would unlock a cure for virtually every human disease and illness imaginable. Companies begin buying and patenting human gene sequences (yes, really) that they thought held the cure for certain diseases. Oops.
        <

        AMY1gene.png
        DNA in digital format. Image credit: Unknown, Public Domain, Link

        Short of discovering a few genetically linked diseases, the project’s greatest discovery was the understanding that we humans (and our diseases) are much more complex than our DNA. Yet people (including some scientists) still cling to this unscientific and reductionist belief that belies the complexity of dynamic, biological organisms and their interactions with even more complex, dynamic environments made up of trillions of other organisms.

        Acknowledging the Complexity of Dynamic Biological Systems

        The “GMO revolution” certainly offers enormous potential and discoveries. However, proponents and practitioners of industrial/conventional ag often completely ignore the broader growing systems/environment in which the plants’ genes are operating. DNA can not fix the bad system designs endemic to industrial ag. At best, it might be able to postpone the inevitable, at the expense of creating more downstream problems in the process.

        When you erode 6 pounds of topsoil for every one pound of food you produce; when it takes you 10 calories of fossil fuel energy to create a calorie of edible human food; when you systematically kill your soil microorganisms that feed, nurture and protect your plants; when you apply synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers that induce systemic imbalances and select for ever-stronger diseases and pathogens; when you produce 25-50% of the greenhouse gasses that are causing massive climactic changes rather than sequestering those gasses in your once-living soils; when your pesticides cause the mass die-off of critically important insects, birds and amphibians; when your rivers and oceans are poisonous dead zones; when the result of all of these activities is a human population with the second worst morbidity ratings of any society in modern history with obesity, overweight and chronic preventable diseases far more common than good health—then you are not deserving of accolades or rewards. You are certainly not worthy of public trust. And you should not be shocked when that trust is not easily granted.

        These are systems problems that must be solved by systems thinking; not the continued reliance on reductionist approaches operating under extractive economic models that ignore basic ecological realities.

        We still have a very primitive understanding of how biological systems work, whether we’re willing to acknowledge that or not. New understandings of epigenetics is making us rethink our understanding of genetics; the discovery of the microbiome is making us rethink whether we should consider ourselves to be autonomous lifeforms or superorganisms.

        The complexity of even the simplest living organism is orders of magnitude more complex than any technology we’ve yet to invent. Yes, we’ve come a long way and we need to continue to innovate, explore, and expand our collective knowledge and practices. However, it would not surprise us in the least if new understandings and corresponding analytical technologies allow us to discover that we’re making significant mistakes with some of our GE tech that we didn’t foresee, once again. 

        For example, a 2017 study published in Nature Methods made a disturbing discovery about huge numbers of off-target, previously unknown mutations in genetically engineered organisms via CRISPR. As the study’s co-author, Stephen Tsang, MD, PhD, stated: 

        “We feel it’s critical that the scientific community consider the potential hazards of all off-target mutations caused by CRISPR, including single nucleotide mutations and mutations in non-coding regions of the genome.”

        Dr. Tsang is the Laszlo T. Bito Associate Professor of Ophthalmology and associate professor of pathology and cell biology at Columbia University Medical Center and in Columbia’s Institute of Genomic Medicine and the Institute of Human Nutrition.

        Final Thoughts

        This is not a sweeping argument against all GE/GMOs. We are pro-technology and pro-science. However, when we see science and technology being abused, misused and/or mischaracterized, we feel the need to speak out and bring information to light that might help inform the public narrative.

        In regards to the Slate article, the notion that conventional ag is superior to organic ag (especially agroecological/permaculture approaches) is one such instance where silence is not an option. We’ve stood in (and eaten) the efficacy of these approaches and seen meticulous independent, peer-reviewed research that affirms our own experiences.

        The agricultural approaches we support, utilize, and promote have proven that they can indeed feed the world both now and into the foreseeable future. Even in large scale, side-by-side 30 year field trials, these methods have proven they can perform as well as or better than industrial models without any of the chemical inputs and none of the costly negative externalities. They can do so while preserving local cultures and cuisines; sustaining seed agrobiodiversity; putting a halt to the anthropocene extinction and global warming; creating more just economic models; reducing or eliminating our agricultural dependency on synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides; and ultimately optimizing the “growing environments” that produce healthy human beings.

        To us, it’s not a question of “can we feed the world?” It’s a question of “what kind of world do we want to feed?”

        When you ask the wrong questions, you’ll often get the wrong answers. Here’s hoping we all start asking and answering better questions. 

        KIGI,


        Updates:
        1. In a conversation we had with Will Saletan (the author of the referenced Slate article) on twitter, he somewhat apologized/backed away from his article’s claim that organic food was no better/different than conventional, which was nice to see. 

        2. Another rather egregious flaw in Saletan’s piece (that we could write another entire article about) is “golden rice.” Saletan claims that environmental extremists have kept this life-saving product off the market, and are therefore responsible for millions of deaths around the world.

        The problem is that this claim is completely false on two levels, as professors from Washington University in St. Louis School of Public Health have pointed out:

        • For one: the IRRI, the developers of golden rice, are completely transparent in acknowledging that golden rice is still 3-5 years away from being commercially viable because it’s underperforming other rice varieties in the field (lower yields) and they’re still working out the kinks. Even if Filipino rice farmers were begging for golden rice (which they’re not), golden rice’s developers would not be able to supply it—for reasons that have nothing to do with the actions of environmental groups and aid organizations. This argument is akin to a Chevy fan blaming Ford that Chevy’s 2019 models haven’t come out yet.
        • Secondly, during the years since they began developing golden rice, the problem of Vitamin A deficiency has already been largely solved using other strategies, so the notion that golden rice is somehow the only way to solve this problem is demonstrably false.

        As the WUSL article states: “Golden Rice seeds arrived at IRRI in 2001 and began the long journey of being crossed into varieties that grow well in the Philippines. By 2008, IRRI (along with the Philippine Rice Inst.) was running confined field trials of two different versions of Golden Rice bred into four rice varieties. During 2011-2013, they focused on field trials of Golden Rice bred into the Green Revolution workhorse rice called IR64 and also a popular variety called “Peñaranda” (A. Alfonso, pers comm). But as of this writing, over 14 years after IRRI began trying to bring Golden Rice down to earth in the Philippines, the best varieties still exhibit a “yield drag”—i.e., lower productivity than seeds that are identical except for the Golden Rice trait (Dubock 2014; Eisenstein 2014; IRRI 2014). Contrary to claims that millions of children are dying worldwide because of Greenpeace’s opposition to Golden Rice, the new strains simply are not ready and they have not even been submitted to regulatory authorities for approval. IRRI is quite clear about this, as a visit to their website will show. I visit IRRI regularly, and as of last month the word was that 3-5 more years of breeding would probably be needed.

        Looking ahead, even if Golden Rice is brought up to speed agronomically, and it is approved, released, and adopted by farmers, the stated goal of saving millions of lives—or even having any significant public health impact—is probably unlikely. Nutrition programs have brought the incidence of childhood VAD from a peak of 40.1% in 2003 to 15.2% in 2008 (Food & Nutrition Research Inst. nd). VAD figures from the 2013 national nutrition survey have not been released, but other types of malnutrition have fallen, and the VAD rate probably has too. Again, IRRI itself has been transparent, acknowledging that VAD is being effectively reduced without Golden Rice (IRRI nd).”

        7 Comments

        • Reply
          libertyfreedompatriot
          September 4, 2015 at 8:52 pm

          Saletan is scientifically and agriculturally illiterate, as he made clear in that article. Thank you for taking the time to respond so convincingly.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            September 9, 2015 at 10:32 am

            You’re quite welcome. Just updated this article with some other interesting info that’s come out since Salatan’s article was published:

            Updates:
            1. Will Salatan, the author of the referenced Slate article, apologized to us on twitter for his article’s claim that organic was not better than conventional. He seemed to blame his editors for the misleading verbiage, but the claim is still on the article.
            2. Another rather egregious flaw in Salatan’s piece (that we could write another entire article about) is “golden rice.” Salatan claims that environmental extremists have kept this life-saving product off the market, and are therefore responsible for millions of deaths around the world. Sounds terrible, right? The problem is that this claim is completely false on two levels, as professors from Washington University in St. Louis School of Public Health have pointed out:

            The IRRI, the developers of golden rice, are completely transparent in acknowledging that golden rice is still 3-5 years away from being commercially viable because it’s underperforming other rice varieties in the field (lower yields).

            During the years since they began developing golden rice, the problem of Vitamin A deficiency has already been largely solved using other strategies, so the notion that golden rice is somehow the only way to solve this problem is demonstrably false.

            As the WUSL article (http://publichealth.wustl.edu/bringing-a-superfood-down-to-earth/) states: “Golden Rice seeds arrived at IRRI in 2001 and began the long journey of being crossed into varieties that grow well in the Philippines. By 2008, IRRI (along with the Philippine Rice Inst.) was running confined field trials of two different versions of Golden Rice bred into four rice varieties. During 2011-2013, they focused on field trials of Golden Rice bred into the Green Revolution workhorse rice called IR64 and also a popular variety called “Peñaranda” (A. Alfonso, pers comm). But as of this writing, over 14 years after IRRI began trying to bring Golden Rice down to earth in the Philippines, the best varieties still exhibit a “yield drag”—i.e., lower productivity than seeds that are identical except for the Golden Rice trait (Dubock 2014; Eisenstein 2014; IRRI 2014). Contrary to claims that millions of children are dying worldwide because of Greenpeace’s opposition to Golden Rice, the new strains simply are not ready and they have not even been submitted to regulatory authorities for approval. IRRI is quite clear about this, as a visit to their website will show. I visit IRRI regularly, and as of last month the word was that 3-5 more years of breeding would probably be needed.

            Looking ahead, even if Golden Rice is brought up to speed agronomically, and it is approved, released, and adopted by farmers, the stated goal of saving millions of lives—or even having any significant public health impact—is probably unlikely. Nutrition programs have brought the incidence of childhood VAD from a peak of 40.1% in 2003 to 15.2% in 2008 (Food & Nutrition Research Inst. nd). VAD figures from the 2013 national nutrition survey have not been released, but other types of malnutrition have fallen, and the VAD rate probably has too. Again, IRRI itself has been transparent, acknowledging that VAD is being effectively reduced without Golden Rice (IRRI nd).”

            If Salatan were to remove the inaccuracies in his article, there would be nothing left on the page but his name. A full retraction and public apology would seem appropriate here, but we’re not holding our breath. We would love to know where his information came from and why he was apparently unable to contact the IRRI during the full year it supposedly took him and his team to “research” the article. It’s a pretty appalling piece of journalism.)

        • Reply
          vince gould
          July 22, 2015 at 9:30 pm

          Slate is, as all “news” should be considered, a source. Always ahead of what you want to hear and open for discussion.

        • Reply
          Braizyn
          July 22, 2015 at 12:42 pm

          Thank you for this article. I will admit, the Will Saletan’s article made me angry. There are extremists on both sides of this discussion, and thank you for your voice of reason.

        • Reply
          Jean Thompson
          July 21, 2015 at 6:17 pm

          Excellent, excellent rebuttal to the Slate article! I commend you both.

        • Reply
          Patricia Chandler Walker
          July 21, 2015 at 4:45 pm

          An excellent measured response. Thank you.

        • Reply
          Peter
          July 20, 2015 at 9:31 am

          Only organic food can cleanse your body from GMO poison!!

        Leave a Reply

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        Gardening

        Tomato Grafting: How to Grow Disease-Resistant Heirloom Tomatoes

        Heirloom Tomatoes Grafting Guide (Pictured: Persimmon, Grape, Garden Peach, Black Prince) by Tyrant Farms

        Tomato grafting is a relatively advanced gardening technique used to produce extremely disease-resistant tomatoes — and make heirloom tomatoes disease-resistant. Tomato grafting can be essential for gardeners and farmers growing tomatoes in hot, humid climates (like the southeast US) where tomato diseases proliferate. 


        Want to grow disease-resistant heirloom tomatoes? Try tomato grafting! 

        We live in the southeast, USA. In case you’ve never been here, it’s so hot and humid in the summer, that you have to take a hot shower at night to cool and dry off. (Not really, but you get the point.)   

        Unfortunately, soils in our region have also been ravaged by years of unsustainable farming and soil management practices.

        Industrial agriculture (www.TyrantFarms.com)

        This is not a healthy ecosystem with living soil. It’s a broken one courtesy of unsustainable farming practices.

        The combination of hot, humid weather conditions + poor soil + intensive monoculture farming practices means our region is the ideal breeding ground for every tomato disease known to mankind. Some of the worst tomato diseases are fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt which can turn seemingly healthy tomato plants into limp heaps seemingly overnight. 

        What are heirloom tomatoes and why should you grow them? 

        Think of heirloom tomatoes as “antique” varieties of tomatoes. Some of them date back hundreds of years, and have cultural significance to their regions of origin.  

        Heirloom tomatoes are renown for their rich, distinct flavors and their unique shapes, colors, and sizes. People who’ve eaten their first sun-ripened heirloom tomato directly off of a plant at Tyrant Farms have remarked that they “never knew tomatoes could taste this good.”

        Heirloom tomatoes (black prince and persimmon tomatoes with thai and purple basil) at Tyrant Farms.

        An heirloom tomato snack (black prince and persimmon tomatoes with thai and purple basil) at Tyrant Farms. Yum!

        The older heirloom tomato varieties might have incredible flavor, but they are nearly impossible to grow year after year in the same spots in the southeast because tomato plant pathogens build up in the soil. That’s why many gardeners and farmers in our area only grow hybrid tomatoes.   

        What are hybrid tomatoes?  

        Hybrid tomatoes are genetically stabilized crosses of other tomato varieties. They’re typically very vigorous and productive. Many hybrids have also been bred to be highly resistant to a wide range of tomato diseases. 

        Chances are, nearly every tomato in your local grocery store is a hybrid tomato. 

        In this fascinating NPR interview, Barry Estabrook, the author of Tomatoland, outlines some unfortunate truths about many of today’s tomatoes. Namely, the most commonly grown hybrid varieties were bred to:

        1. be disease-resistant,
        2. produce indestructible fruit that lasts virtually forever, and
        3. be visually appealing (big, round and red).

        Notice that “better flavor” was not included in that top-3 list of priorities. Nor was “more nutritious.”   

        What if you could somehow get the flavor and nutrition of heirloom tomatoes with the disease-resistance and root vigor of hybrid tomatoes. We’ve got good news: you can!

        Tomato grafting to grow disease-resistant heirloom tomatoes on hybrid rootstock

        Plant grafting is a process wherein a cutting/branch of a desired plant lineage is grafted atop a hardy rootstock from another plant. It’s an ancient technique that likely dates back at least 3,000 years. 

        Nearly all apples, peaches, pears, plums and similar fruits that we enjoy today are grown using plant grafting.

        grafted cherry - craigs crimson - TyrantFarms.com

        A grafted Craig’s Crimson cherry at Tyrant Farms (the graft line is clearly visible a few inches above the ground).

        Can you graft tomato plants too? Yes! 

        In fact, grafting tomatoes is fairly easy to do. You can graft tomatoes to produce extremely vigorous, disease-resistant heirloom tomatoes plants that are also genetically true to the original. This means you’ll get that great heirloom flavor and you’ll be able to save the seeds for future years.

        How to graft heirloom tomato plants

        There are three basic methods that can be utilized to grow grafted heirloom tomatoes:

        1. Approach Grafting
        2. Cleft Grafting
        3. Tube Grafting

        After reviewing the nuts & bolts of all three methods, we decided on Cleft Grafting. Why? It seemed to be the easiest method requiring the least amount of purchased materials. 

        Since Cleft Grafting is the only tomato grafting method we have experience with, that’s the method we detail below. (*We did try grafting a couple of tomatoes using Approach Grafting and they all died—this was probably due to our lack of experience, not due to any fault inherent to the method itself.)

        Step by step: cleft grafting heirloom tomatoes

        Overview:

        Cleft Grafting requires slightly larger tomato plants than the other two grafting methods. The tomato plants’ stems should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter.

        You’ll need one disease resistant hybrid tomato plant and one heirloom tomato plant for each grafted plant you intend to grow. Popular hybrid root stock tomatoes that you grow from seed are:

        Materials you’ll need for tomato grafting:

        • Razor blades (or box cutter),
        • Rubbing alcohol in small bowl (to clean the blades before and after cutting each plant),
        • Parafilm grafting tape to secure and hold the heirloom plant top to the hybrid root stock base,
        • Small planters for each newly grafted plant,
        • Spray bottle/mister.

        Tomato grafting steps:

        1. Start your hybrid seeds before your heirloom seeds. 

        Put your hybrid rootstock seeds into small containers about 1 week before you sow your heirloom tomato seeds. The hybrid root stock plants must be at least the same size if not larger than the heirloom stalks you’ll eventually be grafting onto them.

        2. Match a hybrid to an heirloom to graft. 

        After the plants have produced at least 5 leaves or grown to be 1/4 – 1/2″ thick, pick out a hybrid and an heirloom to graft together. Again, it’s important that the hybrid base be AT LEAST as thick if not thicker than the heirloom tomato’s stem you’ll place on it.

        3. Hybrid surgery: make the wedge opening.

        At first, it feels really strange to decapitate perfectly healthy tomato plants, but you’ll get used to it! Cut the hybrid plant between 2″ and 4″ above the soil line (do a straight cut parallel to the ground).

        Remove any remaining leaves on the hybrid plant base, then cut your “wedge opening.” The wedge opening is a single cut straight down the center of the hybrid stem. You’ll be putting your heirloom stalk in the opening shortly.
        Grafting Heirloom Tomatoes - Slice Rootstock with Blade (www.TyrantFarms.com)

        4. Heirloom surgery: make the top graft wedge. 

        Cut your heirloom plant off of its base parallel to the ground, approximately 2-4″ above ground level. Next, carefully cut a “wedge” on the heirloom’s bottom stem by cutting both sides of the heirloom stem into a V-shape to fit into the hybrid plant base’s “wedge opening.” 

        The purpose of this step is to prepare the V-shaped wedge at the bottom of your beheaded heirloom tomato seedling to slip into the wedge opening of the decapitated hybrid tomato seedling.

        Next, remove all but the top scion leaves on the heirloom stalk so the plant can put it’s energy into rooting/grafting rather than maintaining its leaves. Grafting Heirloom Tomatoes - Cut Scion to A Wedge (www.TyrantFarms.com)

        5. Join & tape the plants. 

        And the two become one! Firmly insert your heirloom wedge (top) into your hybrid wedge opening (base) making sure that at least one side of the outside edge (cambium layer) of the scion is lined up with the outside edge of the rootstock so as to ensure good “blood flow” between the two plants.

        Cut a small piece of parafilm off your roll, and stretch it out (not too thick, about 3″ of tape AFTER it’s been stretched so the plant can break out of it when ready). Wrap the strip of stretched parafilm tape around the grafted area.

        Some people use grafting clips instead of parafilm tape, but we like tape better since the plant tells you when it’s ready by breaking out of the parafilm tape rather than you guessing when it’s time to remove the clip.
        Grafting Heirloom Tomatoes - Scion into Rootstock (www.TyrantFarms.com)
        Grafting heirloom tomatoes - Parafilm scion to roostock attachment (www.TyrantFarms.com)

        6. Days 1-3: Cover grafted tomatoes and keep them in a warm, humid, dark spot while spraying.

        Your freshly grafted tomatoes are going to need a lot of loving. They need to be kept in a humid, dark place completely out of the sun. We put ours under plastic storage bins in our garage during this step.

        Keep them very damp for the next three days, using a spray bottle several times per day to spray down the stem and foliage, and keep the roots moist. It’s difficult to overmist during this step. 

        7. Days 4-7: Place grafted tomatoes in shade. 

        Bring your grafted tomatoes out from the dark, but make sure they’re in a shady spot, watering often until around day 7. If they seem like they’re going strong, try moving them into partial sun but keep an eye on them to make sure they don’t look wilted or stressed.

        8. Days 7-10: Bring grafted tomatoes into sun.  

        Now it’s time to bring your grafted tomatoes into full sun! Keep a close eye on them, especially when you first move them into sun. If they look limp or stressed, move them back into a shadier spot. Make sure the soil never dries out.  

        9. Day 10: Transplant your grafted tomatoes. 

        Put your grafted heirlooms into the ground in a full sun spot. Make sure that your graft line is NOT below the surface of the soil, since this will make the heirloom susceptible to whatever diseases are in your soil.

        Grafting heirloom tomatoes - healed graft (www.TyrantFarms.com)


        Well done! Your grafted heirloom tomatoes should be extremely vigorous and produce an abundance of fruit throughout the season (yep, tomatoes are a fruit).

        Again, your DIY grafted heirloom tomatoes will be genetically pure to their lineage, so make sure to save some seeds for the future.

        KIGI,

        Other tomato articles you might enjoy: 

        3 Comments

        • Reply
          katanahamon
          May 28, 2018 at 10:44 am

          Grafting with the small silicone soft clips is easier than this method described. You select very young seedlings, after maybe the first “real set” of leaves has formed, trim off half the leaves to reduce transpiration load, slice at a 45-65 degree angle, and fit them together inside the clip. One trick to ensure good fit is to hold up and turn the graft to a window, wearing a headset magnifier..it’s easy to see if you have a good fit, if not, cut again, or discard and try again. You don’t ever have to “remove the clip,” the plants will grow and expand and the clip will fall off. Grafts take quickly because the plants are so small and growing quickly.

        • Reply
          April Gordon
          May 27, 2013 at 6:56 am

          I was gratified to see the oppressive conditions faced by Florida farm workers mentioned in the post on tomatoes. If you support sustainable commercial agriculture, this includes not only the quality of the food but the treatment of the people who produce it. Those concerned with alleviating the exploitation of (largely immigrant) farm workers may want to learn more about and support the efforts of such groups as the Immokalee farm workers movement. They are having some success in getting better working conditions and pay for tomato workers, but such efforts will depend heavily on the willingness of consumers to let fast food and grocery chains know that they are willing to pay slightly more for their food.

          • Reply
            Aaron
            June 11, 2013 at 12:15 pm

            We absolutely agree! Thanks for sharing.

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        Foraged

        Our top-3 favorite wild edible flowers of spring

        Our top-3 favorite wild edible flowers of spring thumbnail

        Wild edible flowers abound throughout the warm months in most of North America. Here are three of our favorite wild edible flowers of spring that might grow wild where you live too!  


        We love spring. Frankly, if you’re a human being who doesn’t love spring, we’re a little worried about you. It’s a great time to rediscover all the perennials you forgot you planted in years past while also watching your newly-planted annuals double in size each week.

        Continue Reading

        8 Comments

        • Reply
          Jenn Falcon
          May 1, 2022 at 8:45 am

          I am obsessed with black locust flowers. Just one problem. A lot of the flowers have these teeny tiny little green caterpillars/worms!!! When you wash the flowers they seem to really lose their flavor. Any suggestions how to get them out? When the flowers have little tiny circle holes they are more likely to be there, but not always. As a kid I didn’t know what these trees were called or that the flowers were edible. That was long before internet, so I gave them my own name: giant thorn trees. Anyway, is there a way to get the little green worms/caterpillars out besides pulling apart each flower?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 1, 2022 at 2:40 pm

            Interesting! We’ve never seen caterpillars in black locust flowers we’ve foraged, which means either: a) we don’t have that insect species in abundance here, or b) we’ve consumed them without noticing – ha. Removing the caterpillars without rinsing the flowers is going to be a challenge and might require some experimentation… I wonder if giving the flowers a vigorous shake atop a strainer with holes large enough for the caterpillars to fit through would do the trick? Otherwise, we’re not sure what you’d do that wouldn’t require water or diminish the quality of the flavor and texture. Sorry!

        • Reply
          JustASC
          May 30, 2018 at 11:27 pm

          Well, my crabapple blossom jam, my magnolia petal jam, and my redbud jam turned out really well, so I guess those are my favourites to make jam with. lol Making honeysuckle jam now, so we’ll see. I like to eat rose petals and primrose petals raw. Honeysuckle flowers can be nice raw as well. I also like those complimentary orchids that restaurants put on your plate. Just collected black locust flowers today and I plan to make jam with them tomorrow!

        • Reply
          MarilynnB
          April 23, 2016 at 1:35 am

          Some of the others I like are clover, honeysuckle, kudzu and mimosa.

          • Reply
            Aaron
            April 25, 2016 at 8:03 am

            Yes! Those are great too. Thanks for sharing. 🙂

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            January 8, 2017 at 4:00 pm

            Sorry, Marilynn – our comment system was broken so my original response to you didn’t show up. Yes! Those are great too. Thanks for sharing. 🙂

        • Reply
          Ty
          May 20, 2015 at 6:15 pm

          Thank you for this beautiful article. I am absolutely in love with wisteria! I will have it on my permaculture farm along with the 2 others as well as many more. You asked what my favorite is!? I really enjoy moringa I eat the leaves raw almost daily, extremely delicious and nutritious. The flowers have a pleasant umph of a bite to them and the young tender pods are edible raw/stir fry 🙂 so that’s what I have been growing and experimenting with lately! keep up the beautiful work! <3

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        Native Passion Fruit (Passiflora Incarnata): How To Grow, Forage, & Eat How to hatch goose eggs – tips, tricks, and troubleshooting How to hatch duck eggs via a mama duck or incubator Best EDIBLE plants to grow in shade (fruit, herbs & veggies) Understanding duck mating & courtship 9 amazing duck facts that will blow your human mind