Recipes

How to make lacto-fermented fruit, with recipes

How to make lacto-fermented fruit, with recipes thumbnail

Learning how to make lacto-fermented fruit will give you access to a secret ingredient used by the world’s top restaurants and chefs. In addition to incredible flavor, lacto-fermented fruits also have numerous health benefits. In this article, we’ll show you exactly how you can make lacto-fermented fruit at home. 


For my birthday earlier this summer, The Tyrant got me the perfect gift: The Noma Guide to Fermentation. In case you’ve never heard of it, Noma (a restaurant located in Denmark) consistently competes for consideration as the world’s #1 restaurant. 

One not-so-secret ingredient that Head Chef Rene Redzepi attributes to Noma’s incredible success is fermentation. In fact, fermentation is so essential to Noma’s culinary creations that they started an actual “fermentation lab” that’s equal parts kitchen and science lab. 

The Noma Guide to Fermentation is essentially everything they’ve learned about fermentation over the past decade cooked down into a single book.  

Now, if you follow our website or social media channels, you know that we love fermentation AND eating home-grown fruit.

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Perfect snack. Homemade milk kefir, lacto fermented blueberries from our bushes, and honey from the backyard hive. Gratifying. #gardentotable #fermentation #microbiomehealth

A post shared by Tyrant Farms (@tyrantfarms) on

Thus, the first parts of the book I dove into were all about how Noma makes and uses various lacto-fermented fruits.  

Even though the process of lacto-fermenting fruit is fairly simple and straightforward, I’ve already learned a ton from this book…

Continue Reading

6 Comments

  • Reply
    Abeille Kaelin
    September 25, 2023 at 11:01 am

    Thank you ! Quite the morning read today for me ! I am extremely excited to try this whole ferment process !!! What’s the most direct way to ask my thousand questions that are forming!!??

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 25, 2023 at 2:46 pm

      Ha! Feel free to post a list of questions here in the comments or use our contact form to message us directly.

  • Reply
    Finnish foragers
    September 18, 2023 at 4:35 am

    Friendly greetings from fellow Finnish foragers from the North, happy to see people around the world doing similar projects!

    We noticed the purple mint family Lamiaceae herb you are using with your LAB-fermented peaches is clearly not purple basil but it’s cousin the Japanese Umeboshi herb ”Shiso” also known as Perilla (Perilla frutescens var. crispa) one of our favourite aromatic herbs!

    It’s called ”Purppurakähäräveripeippi” (which translates to roughly Purple Curly Blood Dead Nettle) in Finnish and it became an inside joke when you tried to say it many times as fast as possible

    Purppurakähäräveripeippi, shiso is maybe a bit easier

    Have a beautiful autumn and may your mushrooms be many

    J & M

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 18, 2023 at 7:24 am

      Hello Finnish foragers! Thanks for reaching out. The herb in question comes by way of Frank Morton of Gathering Together Farm. He’s an incredible plant breeder. The name of his family seed company in Oregon, USA, is Gathering Together Farm. Despite its appearance, the herb is indeed basil/Ocimum basilicum. The varietal name is ‘Opalescent’ and it’s a cross between Mrihani x Opal basil. Other seed companies here in the US now offer this same variety, sometimes under different names. We also grow shiso, and it would work well as a substitute, but basil would be our preference in fermented peaches.

  • Reply
    Aaron Ross Palmieri
    July 31, 2020 at 4:28 pm

    I was curious what you do once the lacto-fermentation has hit the peak (like when you hit day 10). Do you just freeze it or put the fruit in a new jar without the brine?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 2, 2020 at 9:05 am

      There are two parts to the answer: 1) how do you arrest fermentation, and 2) what do you (or can you) do with the lacto-fermented fruit + brine?

      1. When your fermentation is done, you’ll need to slow or stop the microbial activity. Putting it in the fridge slows the LAB’s metabolism to a crawl and you can probably leave it in the fridge for 6-8 weeks without too much flavor change. If you freeze it, obviously this completely stops microbial activity. The option you choose here is going to come down to how much end product you have, how quickly you can eat it, or what you intend to do with it.

      2. As far as WHAT you do with lacto-fermented fruit/brine, there’s no single right answer and it can even vary by fruit. For instance, we like to strain our blueberries out of their brine and use the lacto blueberries as a topping on fermented dairy products like kefir (with a little honey). The brine is great added to sauces, salad dressings, etc. But you don’t have to separate the brine from the fruit. You can just put the whole ferment in your fridge as-is and use it slowly over the next month or so, or you can blend it all together. For instance, with the peach-basil-honey lacto-fermentation recipe in this article, we blended all the ingredients together at the end and have been using it as a rub on finished corn on the cob. But we could have also strained the peaches + basil and used them for other applications.

      Short answer: there is no single answer and you can experiment with each lacto-fermented fruit recipe you make to establish favorite use methods and discover new ones.

Leave a Reply

Recipe Rating




Gardening

How to grow organic peaches in the southeast US – an interview with Clemson scientists

How to grow organic peaches in the southeast US - an interview with Clemson scientists thumbnail

Looking for a detailed guide about how to grow organic peaches in the southeast? This article will provide evidence-based solutions provided by two of the world’s top peach scientists to improve your chances of growing peaches successfully using organic methods. 


This is one of our longer articles. We’d encourage you to read the whole thing to gain a thorough understanding of the subject matter, but if you’d like to skip right to a particular section of interest, here is a table of contents:

I. Introduction: How this article came to be (and our organic peach growing success)

II. Interview with Clemson University’s Drs. Guido Schnabel and Juan Carlos Melgar

III. Key takeaways: a printable quick guide to growing organic peaches in the southeastern US

Peaches we grew organically in Greenville, South Carolina.

Peaches we grew organically in Greenville, South Carolina.

Continue Reading

8 Comments

  • Reply
    Dan Lefever
    July 29, 2021 at 9:26 am

    A few major points that the professors missed:
    Plum curculio (PC) is a weevil not a beetle (this can make a difference when it comes to management). Use Surround and keep tree covered for 8 weeks post bloom. Also Bt was suggested, this has no effect on PC. There are many other options for PC management for small growers. Bagging is probably not one, because fruit is too small to bag when damage is occurring (pea sized fruit). But probably useful for brown rot and Oriental Fruit Moth (OFM) control.
    The advice to spray the fruit with Bonide, before to bag means nothing because Bonide is not a product; it is the name of a company that repackages lawn and garden pesticides in homeowner portions. They have 212 products listed on their website, which one is it?
    I can’t fathom why the professors failed to even mention OFM. It is a major culprit along with PC in causing damage which then opens up the fruit to infection with brown rot. It may be that because in large commercial orchards it can be controlled without pesticides by mating disruption, thus no longer seen as a major problem, but this technique does not work in small plantings.
    Scale is usually kept at bay by lady bugs until you disrupt them with insecticides, oil is an option if needed.
    Peach tree borer is very devastating to small trees, a trunk spray of neem oil, or a root drench of Azasol (a water soluble systemic neem) should give enough control and along with a physical barrier like an aluminum foil trunk wrap.

    Peach scab can be a problem in severe infection years, but I find good foliar micros nutrition, from bud break, along with biologicals at bloom, and sulfur included (one of the most effective controls,even for chemical growers) at petal fall with first Surround spray keeps it in bounds. big problem is you never know if you have it until 70 days from infection.
    I don’t see major issues with bacterial spot, maybe because of better nutrition and less chemical disruption of the surface microbiome. Also many varieties have resistance.
    Armillaria root rot should never be real issue in a home growing situation where the ground under the tree is mulched or cover cropped and has good biology, not bare ground with the soil biology and mycorrhizae totally disrupted by herbicides such as glyphosate, allowing “pathogenic” organisms to get out of control. In my opinion glyphosate (active ingredient in Roundup) has done more than any other single product to disrupt plant health and ecology; to induce multiple problems and thus huge increases of pesticide use in conventional agriculture.
    The easiest and probably single most important thing to do; is to spray your fruit trees foliarly, with soluble seaweed, from bud swell thru leaf drop. Weekly, for the first 8 weeks, (can be added to any other sprays), and then every two weeks or so, if you can keep up with it, for the rest of the season until leaf drop. The micronutrients and plant hormones (cytokinins, etc) go a long way towards promoting plant health and lessening problems over all.
    Plant nutrition and soil biology is the root to address all plant health / insect problems including brown rot. Start exploring on YouTube: John Kempf, plant health pyramid and

  • Reply
    Dan Lefever
    June 27, 2021 at 7:37 am

    Aaron, I read your interview with the ” expert Drs” regarding organic peach growing and felt I needed to respond to some of their comments, and omissions, from a truly organic small scale perspective. I did so with a reply which took 7 hours to compose, all night til now, only to loose it during the final edit, when it totally disappeared. I haven’t the courage to retype it but would be glad to have you interview me for a follow up article, which can be shared with all. I have worked with small scale organic fruit growing for 50 years.
    Dan Lefever
    BioRational Resource
    Nellysford, VA 484-318-3789 mobile

  • Reply
    Christopher Madden
    March 13, 2021 at 9:01 pm

    Aaron-

    Totally agree with your points. Its a much stickier wicket for commercial growers, who, as you say, are who the good doctors are mostly dealing with.

    As far as the beneficial microbes, I’m basically blindly following the advice of Michael Phillips from his book The Holistic Orchard. He includes the beneficial microbes in each of his four recommended sprays in the spring- at 1/4” green, early pink, petal fall and first cover, and then I *think* periodically after that. So I guess initially targeting the roots, and then the leaves. We use SCD ProBio Balance Plus Mother Culture Concentrate. But I can’t say what research led me to choose that brand.

    I’ve been fishing around for advice on when and how to use Bt, which led me to your page. Have you ever used it? If so, when did you apply it? Sounds like you had a good experience with the clay. I may look into using that.

    Anyway, glad you’re enjoying your peaches. We certainly do ours.

    Thanks for the response and the good info!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 14, 2021 at 10:55 am

      We haven’t used bT on our fruit trees, but we have used it with good results on squash (for squash vine borers). The primary thing we’ve used thus far on our peaches is kaolin clay/Surround since we were taking the lazy approach, which didn’t yield great fruit production. The only other application I’ve ever used on our peach trees was a homemade tansy/mint tea combo after fruit set, but the botanicals volatilize so quickly that I doubt it had any effect. I think for the botanicals to be effective, you’d need a chemist to design some sort of benign surfactant to mix in. I know Clemson is working on some essential oil applications that show promise on peaches, so I’m curious to see what they come up with and what the efficacy is.

      If what you’re doing is working for you, don’t fix it!

      • Reply
        Christopher Madden
        March 16, 2021 at 10:41 am

        Ha ha. Yes. Good advice!

  • Reply
    Chris Madden
    March 12, 2021 at 3:44 pm

    Hey Guys- Thanks for the article. I’m here in Charlotte, NC growing a couple of peach trees (a Contender and a Carolina Gold) on our 1/2 lot. It was kind of the two experts to offer all that knowledgeable advice. I would just say though, as a complete and utter non-expert, that the tone of their opinions felt a little more pessimistic than warranted, especially for the home grower. Maybe we’ve just been lucky, but we’ve been cultivating our couple of trees for a few years now and have always gotten a nice big crop of peaches, with, I would say, a variety of weather: wet, dry, etc. We use a combination of neem oil, beneficial microbes, liquid fish, Bt, as well as bagging, and our peaches have generally been good- a little spotty and buggy, but generally a bountiful and delicious crop. Anyway, thanks again and let us know if you come upon any more good sources for organic fruit growing advice. Good luck!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 13, 2021 at 10:47 am

      Thanks Chris! A few considerations:

      1) These scientists only deal with large scale peach operations, e.g. many acres of a single crop. It’s hard to understate the difference between that type of cropping system (large monoculture) and a small diversified home landscape (polyculture). The disease and insect pressure in a large peach operation is probably orders of magnitude higher. So, their experience, expertise, and advice is built around that paradigm.

      2) A commercial peach operation is operating on a razor’s edge. If certain diseases like brown rot (Monilinia fructicola) get into their crops, it can mean total crop failure since they can’t bring that fruit to market. For home growers like you (and us), we can easily cut a worm out of a peach, cut off a chunk of rotten fruit, etc. Grocery store buyers aren’t so forgiving – they require picture perfect fruit. Here again, that’s the paradigm that these peach scientists have to operate under.

      3. It sounds like you’re already doing a lot of things they recommended, especially with bagging your fruit, which makes a huge difference. So kudos!

      When I reflected on their advice (which can seem daunting/pessimistic at first), it made me realize what a tremendous advantage home peach growers have versus commercial growers. We can take much better care of our trees since we’re not having to calculate an ROI on each input and hour of labor. We’ll continue to define success as filling our freezer full of delicious, mostly imperfect organically grown peaches that we could never sell, and counting ourselves fortunate to have ~30-50% perfect fruit.

      Question: what beneficial microbes are you using and are you applying them as a root drench, foliar spray, or both?

Leave a Reply

Recipe Rating




Foraged Recipes

Reishi mushrooms: How to find, ID, & use — with recipe!

Reishi mushrooms: How to find, ID, & use — with recipe! thumbnail

In this article, you’ll learn how to find, identify, and use reishi mushrooms. Reishis have been used medicinally in Asian cultures for thousands of years, and also grow in the wild in North America.


“Divine mushroom,” “mushroom of immortality”…  These are the meanings behind the common names of what is perhaps the most famous of all Asian medicinal mushrooms: reishi (aka lingzhi)

Reishi mushrooms have been used for thousands of years in traditional Chinese medicine. Granted, the people who originally referred to them as the mushroom of immortality are no longer around, so it’s safe to assume they won’t actually help you live forever. 

However, modern research has shown reishi mushrooms to have some fascinating medicinal properties. Other good news: you don’t have to import reishis from Asia. 

In fact, there’s a good chance they’re growing in a forest near you. You just have to know how to safely identify and use them in order to take advantage of their health benefits.

Let’s dive in and find out how!

A young — and still tender — cluster or reishi mushrooms fruiting in August from the base of a dead hardwood tree.

A young — and still tender — cluster or reishi mushrooms fruiting in August from the base of a dead hardwood tree.

Continue Reading

4 Comments

  • Reply
    Shea D Broussard
    August 22, 2022 at 8:03 am

    Great recipe! It was just the creative approach I was looking for in my medicinal explorations 💕

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 22, 2022 at 11:56 am

      Thanks, Shea! So glad to hear you enjoyed our reishi mushroom fermentation recipe. Cheers to your health and enjoyment!

  • Reply
    milo
    February 12, 2021 at 12:52 pm

    Yay! Thanks for the info and cordial recipe. Excited to try it (once I find the ingredients 🙂

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 13, 2021 at 1:04 pm

      You’re very welcome! Hope your reishi mushroom-mimosa flower cordial turns out great. If you live in our hemisphere, you’ll be waiting until summer when mimosa flowers are in bloom and reishis are fruiting.

Leave a Reply

Recipe Rating




Ducks

How to herd your ducks (aka get your ducks in a row!) – with video

How to herd your ducks (aka get your ducks in a row!) - with video thumbnail

We’ve recently come to realize that lots of new pet and backyard duck parents have trouble getting their ducks to go where they (the humans) want them to. In this article, you’ll find out how to easily herd your ducks to get them to go wherever you want! 


What’s the origin of getting your ducks in a row? 

There’s debate about when and where the term “get your ducks in a row” originated. Perhaps it was an old bowling pin reference, a carnival game term, or an allusion to wild ducklings lining up behind momma duck. 

Regardless of the term’s etymology, to get your ducks in a row has a clear meaning: get your things in order.

Proof that you can sometimes get your ducks in a row.

Proof that you can sometimes get your ducks in a row.

We can say with certainty that whoever actually coined this term clearly did not have backyard or pet ducks. When you become owned by ducks, your life inevitably becomes more chaotic, not less. That’s because your ducks will spend their days trying to figure out how to get you out of your row. 

But you fall head-over-flippers in love with them regardless. 

Yes, you can actually get your ducks to go where you want them

Two common questions we get asked by other ducks parents:

  • How do you get your ducks to go into their coop at night?
  • How do you get them to go where you want them when you let them out in your gardens — or keep them from running off to your neighbors’ property?

The answer to this question is quite simple: a stick. Nope, we don’t use a stick to smack our ducks like horses, we simply herd them. 

And without a herding stick in hand, our ducks are nearly impossible to get in a row. 

How to herd your ducks

Ducks are highly social animals. When let out in our gardens at night, our five girls forage in close proximity to one another. 

Our ducks foraging one of our front yard beds. As you can see, they like to stick pretty close together.

Our ducks foraging one of our front yard beds. As you can see, they like to stick pretty close together.

If one accidentally gets separated from the flock, she’ll soon let out a “where are you” alarm quack, in hopes of eliciting a response from the others so she can run over to be reunited. 

This grouping instinct comes in handy when you’re trying to get multiple ducks to go to a specific spot or move in a specific direction. 

Ducks also seem to have a strong innate herding instinct in the presence of a human with a herding stick. We’re not sure whether this was bred into ducks over thousands of generations of domestication or simply some glitchy adaptive, epigenetic response associated with fear of airborne predators. Or perhaps some combination of the two…

Regardless, ducks herd really easily when directed with a stick. So when you’re in your yard herding ducks, think of yourself as a maestro or maestra and your ducks as an orchestra. Granted the cacophony of quacks you’ll elicit from your ducks would make Beethoven shriek in horror, but it still warms the cockles.  

A magic wand that makes ducks do what you want? When you have a herding stick, you'll be amazed at how much easier it is to make your ducks go where you want them. How to herd your ducks, by Tyrant Farms.

A magic wand that makes your ducks do what you want? When you have a herding stick in hand, you’ll be amazed at how much easier it is to make your ducks go where you want them.

7 duck herding stick tips:

1. Use a stick that’s about 3-4′ long to herd ducks. Nope, you don’t have to buy a herding stick, any ol’ stick of the right length will do. Our personal favorite materials are bamboo and elderberry because they’re straight and light weight.  

2. Keep a few duck herding sticks around in places where you’ll need them. For instance, we have certain spots throughout our front and back yard where there’s always a few duck stick on the ready if/when we need them. 

3. If you have a larger flock (20+ birds) or a small free-range farming operation, you may want to attach a small flag to the end of your duck herding stick to make it more visible to birds in the front of the formation.   

4. Want your ducks to go to the right? Place your stick to the left of them or tap it on the ground to the left of them.

5. Want your ducks to go left? Place your stick to the right of them or tap it on the ground to the right of them.

how to herd ducks - herding stick

Go left, ducks! Place your herding stick to the right.

6. Want your ducks to go straight ahead? Go back and forth with your stick, right-left-right-left while walking forward. Once they get moving, you can just pull the stick up to your center. 

7. If you want your ducks to slow down or stop, simply put the herding stick behind your back and also stop moving forward yourself. “Out of sight out of mind” was a saying coined by duck herders. No, not really.  

Duck herding video:

Here’s a quick 30 second video showing duck herding in action so you can see what it’s like behind the stick: 

 

(*The video may not display if you have ad blocking software on your computer, sorry!)

Can you train ducks to respond to sounds? 

Yes, your ducks can be trained to respond to specific sounds! At least ours can, and they wouldn’t exactly qualify as honor roll students at the local elementary school. (No offense to bird brains, which are actually remarkably intelligent.)   

A few examples:

We have a loud, drawn out duuuuck-a-liiing call that we’ve trained our ducks to associate with receiving treats (tomatoes, mealworms, Japanese beetles, etc). When they hear the call, they come waddle-running over to us, quacking excitedly the whole way.   

Our ducks also respond to specific tapping sounds of a herding stick. For instance, a loud “tap, tap” against a tree trunk or tomato cage means they need to come out of a certain bed they’re foraging in.

Multiple loud tap, tap, taps of a herding stick as dusk approaches means it’s time to head back to the backyard in preparation for going into their coop at night. And work on their multiplication tables. No, not really.    


So now you know how to herd your ducks and how you can potentially train them to respond to certain sounds or calls to make your job as Chief Duck Herder even easier. 

Thank us next time you put your ducks into their coop at night or need to shew them away from one of your garden beds. 

Quack on, 


 
the impractical guide to keeping pet and backyard ducks banner

Other articles that will tickle your flippers:

No Comments

    Leave a Reply

    Recipe Rating




    Gardening

    14 garden greens you can grow in the summer in hot climates

    14 garden greens you can grow in the summer in hot climates thumbnail

    Trying to find garden greens you can grow in the summer in hot climates? Here’s a list of 14 greens that can grow all summer long no matter how hot it gets.


    We live in the hot, humid southeast where daytime temperatures regularly stay in the mid-90s for weeks at a time. If you’re a cicada or a cactus, these are wonderful weather conditions.

    However, our hot summers are not hospitable for any of the common greens we can grow in the cooler months: lettuce, spinach, kale… all quickly go to bolt (seed) and die out. The last of the standard greens to die off in our garden is kale, which is now flowering and near the end of its lifecycle in late June.

    Kale florets are delicious, but the leaves take on a mustardy flavor due to heat stress and phytochemical changes the plant undergoes to defend its offspring against herbivores. 

    From July through early October, there’s virtually no chance of growing standard leafy greens outdoors in our climate. However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of edible plant leaves/greens in our garden when it’s scorching hot outside… 

    Continue Reading

    2 Comments

    • Reply
      Christine from Friction Farm
      June 15, 2021 at 3:19 pm

      Day lilies are edible – leaves and flowers. Young sassafras leaves are also good

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        June 16, 2021 at 12:04 pm

        Thanks Christine! Day lily leaves are best when they’re young and tender; just emerging. For us, that’s in late winter through early spring, not summer. By summer, our day lily leaves are too mature and fibrous to be used as a green. The flowers are delicious though – we eat them nightly this time of year. As for sassafras: that is another wonderful edible, albeit from a perennial tree. If I’m not mistaken, sassafras leaves are better as a flavoring for things like tea and file (spice for gumbo) than as a fresh-eating or cooked green. Do you have experience eating sassafras leaves in the summer? If so, any eating tips?

    Leave a Reply

    Recipe Rating




    Foraged

    Bicolor bolete (Baorangia bicolor) – how to find, ID, and eat this wild gourmet mushroom

    Bicolor bolete (Baorangia bicolor) - how to find, ID, and eat this wild gourmet mushroom thumbnail

    Bicolor bolete mushrooms are one of our favorite summer fungi — and one of the few wild-foraged mushrooms we know of that pairs well with red meat. Find out how to locate, identify, and eat this summer delicacy!


    Warning: Before reading this article, note that there are lots of wild mushrooms and plants that can kill you or make you very sick. There are also poisonous lookalikes to bicolor bolete mushrooms, some of which we highlight in this article. As we detail in our Beginner’s Guide to Foraging, you should never eat anything you’re not 100% certain you’ve correctly ID’d AND you’re not 100% certain is edible. 


    Introducing boletes: A fun fungi family

    Boletes (Boletaceae) are a large family of fungi that can be found around the world. They’re particularly beloved by mushroom foragers due to their many edible species — although there are also poisonous boletes to be cautious of. 

    Shaggy stalked boletes (Heimioporus Betula). We jokingly call these giraffe boletes, for obvious reasons. Technically, these are an edible bolete but not considered a choice edible.

    Shaggy stalked boletes (Heimioporus Betula). We jokingly call these giraffe boletes, for obvious reasons. Technically, these are an edible bolete but not considered a choice edible.

    Most bolete family fungi are easy to spot due:

    1. their classic cartoon mushroom shape (large round cap attached to single stems), and
    2. lack of gills.

    Instead of gills, the underside of a bolete cap looks like a fine-pored sponge; millions of spores emanate from these structures on mature mushrooms. Spores are to mushrooms as seeds are to plants. 

    Exception – There is one bolete species in our area that does have gills: the aptly named gilled bolete (Phylloporus rhodoxanthus). This is also an excellent edible mushroom.

    Bicolor bolete (left) vs gilled bolete (right).

    A couple of other edible boletes: Boletus pseudosensibilis (left), which looks almost identical to bicolor boletes and gilled bolete (right). 

    Perhaps the most famous of all boletes is the King bolete, aka porcini (Boletus edulis). Unfortunately for us, porcinis don’t grow natively in our area, Greenville, South Carolina.

    However, there are plenty of other commonly found, edible bolete species that grow abundantly here. Our personal favorite: bicolor boletes (Baorangia bicolor). 

     

    Continue Reading

    12 Comments

    • Reply
      Lisa
      September 9, 2022 at 11:50 am

      Hi, I’ve read a lot of things about mushrooms but I don’t recall seeing any source that says “boletes, in general, can be eaten raw.” The only ones I know about that are recommended raw are Boletus edulis, and not in large amounts–a few thin slices dressed w/ oil, lemon, salt & pepper as a small tasty salad.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        September 9, 2022 at 4:19 pm

        We definitely do not recommend eating boletes raw, for reasons we detail in the article. The sentence reads, “Although some sources say boletes, in general, can be eaten raw, we highly recommend cooking bicolor boletes before eating them.” We linked out to the source that originally mentioned eating boletes raw, but it looks like that reference has now been edited out. Regardless, to anyone else reading: cook your boletes before eating!

    • Reply
      Jonny "Pawley's Island Pirate" Rigs
      August 28, 2022 at 8:22 am

      I used to live upstate SC in Greenville and only ever saw the big white yard mushrooms, but since moving coastal I have seen a huge variety of Fungi and it’s peaked my interest. I have always loved mushrooms but only have ever gotten them from the store because “Safety first.” But down here there are just so many kinds and my new neighborhood is covered in what I have been assuming to be Boletes, now I can go out and test them and really find out what I have got here. Maybe I’ll make some for my burgers this next weekend.
      Thanks for this simple but well written out line of how to identify them, most of the Mycology pages are kinda hard to read ha!

      If you’re ever in PI send me a reply and I’ll walk you through my mushroom dense neighborhood.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 29, 2022 at 10:59 am

        We also have family who live on the coast in Mt. Pleasant, SC. They’ve been getting hammered by huge rainstorms almost daily over the past few weeks and said the fungi are fruiting like crazy down there. They’ve been sending us pictures of the various edible boletes (including bicolors) they’ve been finding as well. “Safety first” is always a good rule, whether you’re a new or experienced forager. Glad our article was helpful and hope you learn a ton about the fascinating field of mycology during your outdoor forays. Enjoy!

    • Reply
      John
      August 25, 2022 at 4:14 pm

      Just bought a home in Cataula Georgia, and back yard is littered with them. So wanting to go at them, did the cut test and low and behold, I believe I have a garden of edibles. Your site and details have made me almost positive that I am okay with what i have found. Cut test again, yielded the identical results (photos) of what you depict as winners.

      Skeptical in Georgia….

      John

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 26, 2022 at 10:02 am

        Lucky you! We have a bicolor bolete patch on our property too. Glad the information we provided was helpful, and good on you for being cautious and careful in your identification.

    • Reply
      Michael H
      July 17, 2022 at 6:20 pm

      My fiancee and I have been mushroom hunting for about a year now and we re also from the upstate SC area. We recently found this mushroom in the Hartwell, GA area and are very excited to try it. I originally though it was a boletus sensibilus, but when cut, it bruised slowly. I didn’t know there was a pseudosensibilus and glad to have found this. The one we found was a bit old so we aren’t going to eat it, but the next one we find I am definitely going to try out this recipe!!!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        July 18, 2022 at 8:45 am

        Sounds like a good plan, Michael! Bicolor boletes are wonderful. We much prefer them when they’re still firm upon giving them a gentle squeeze versus the softer, spongy texture they take on when they’re older. When conditions are right, you can still find very large ones that are firm. We actually found a bunch of large firm ones this past weekend. Yum! Happy mushroom foraging to you and your fiancee.

    • Reply
      Lisa
      July 17, 2022 at 1:22 pm

      Hi there, I found what appears to be a typo, it says “There are a few bolete species that don’t have gills, such as gilled boletes (Phylloporus rhodoxanthus)…” I believe it’s meant to say “There are a few bolete species that DO have gills…”

    • Reply
      Jewel
      August 2, 2021 at 7:42 pm

      Hi, I would like to know what you consider flushing blue “slowly” means. I recently found a mushroom and performed the cut test. It took about 7 minutes for all the flesh to turn a blue hue. Would that be considered more immediate or slow?

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        August 3, 2021 at 12:38 pm

        Hi Jewel! That’s quite slow on the blue flushing, indicating that what you’ve found is NOT a Boletus sensibilis. When the caps or stems of B. sensibilis are cut, they’ll blush blue in a matter of seconds, almost instantly. Hope this helps!

    Leave a Reply

    Recipe Rating




    Ducks

    Why and how to make a duck go broody

    Why and how to make a duck go broody thumbnail

    If your ducks (or other poultry) are laying soft eggs or having other reproductive problems like being egg bound, making them go broody may be a life-saving intervention. In this article, we’ll show you exactly how to make a duck go broody. 


    We’ve been owned by ducks for about a decade now. Over that time period, we’ve had to learn about (and deal with) a wide range of duck health problems, some of them caused by our initial inexperience as duck parents and some of them purely coincidental. 

    In recent years, we’ve had lots of people reach out to us via email and private message on our social media accounts for help or advice dealing with their sick ducks. Some of the most common health problems we hear about fall under the category of “reproductive issues.” 

    Examples of common duck health issues we get inquiries about:

    • My duck is laying soft eggs, what should I do?
    • Help, I think my duck is egg bound!  
    • My duck hasn’t laid eggs in a few days and is acting lethargic – is something wrong?

    While we certainly don’t claim to have the knowledge or expertise of someone like our beloved avian vet, Dr. Hurlbert at HealthPointe Veterinary Clinic, we have learned to troubleshoot these common duck health issues. Depending on the context and severity, one good solution to many duck health reproductive problems is to make them go “broody.”

    Jackson, our broody Welsh Harlequin duck, hamming it up for a photo.

    Jackson, our broody Welsh Harlequin duck, hamming it up for a photo.

     

    Continue Reading

    12 Comments

    • Reply
      Kate
      June 19, 2023 at 7:27 pm

      Our Pekin, Susan, was our only duck who laid eggs all winter long and it really took a toll on her with soft shelled eggs, etc. I finally have convinced her to “adopt” a pair of ceramic eggs and she has been lovingly tending them for a few weeks now. She’s not the best mother, so for example was out for several hours in the yard with her friends but then hopped right back on the nest when she came back into the run.

      Do you think there would be any harm in letting her sit on them for longer than a month, especially if she is sort of half-hearted about it? I’d love for her to get as long of a break as possible from egg laying.

      Thanks!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        June 20, 2023 at 9:58 am

        Great question, Kate! The risk with extending Susan the duck’s broodiness would be that she correspondingly reduces her food intake over a longer time period. Broody ducks tend to severely reduce their food intake, which is a normal physiological/hormonal response necessary to incubate eggs and protect their nest. In your case, if Susan has gone broody and shut off egg production but is otherwise eating normally, you’ll have the best case scenario to help her body remineralize and rebound. However, if she’s eating less than normal, you might want to maintain a normal broody schedule of ~1 month rather than trying to extend it. Also, note that even when a domestic duck snaps out of broodiness, it can still take many weeks or months for them to start laying again, depending on a wide range of factors.

        • Reply
          Kate
          June 27, 2023 at 9:10 pm

          Thanks! I think we are going to keep going with it… she was out in the yard foraging for several hours today then hopped back onto the nest when I put her in. Interestingly, she has had a spot of bumblefoot that I have been trying to treat for months and months with very slow progress. I looked at it today for the first time in a few weeks after honestly doing nothing to it (we’ve had some other animal issues taking up our time) and it’s pretty much healed! I think her body was really stressed.

          • Aaron von Frank
            June 28, 2023 at 10:47 am

            Glad to hear things are going well, Kate! The vast majority of our ducks’ bumblefoot infections are mild, ergo not severe enough for us to treat. We’ve found that healthy ducks can easily fend off most bumblefoot infections. We’ve also noticed the same thing as you: our ducks get more bumblefoot infections and those infections take longer to heal when they’re laying eggs. Also, as best we know, our drake has never had so much as a mild bumblefoot infection. Our conclusion based on these observations is that laying so many eggs over so long a time period (which doesn’t happen in wild ducks) takes an enormous amount of energy and bodily resources, thus making such ducks more susceptible to infection and illness. Since our ducks are also pets, this is a primary reason we don’t aim for maximum egg production; we instead aim for optimal health and longevity.

            Two possibly useful resources for you and/or other readers:
            1. How to safely and humanely treat bumblefoot in ducks: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/how-to-treat-bumblefoot-in-ducks-safely-effectively-and-humanely-with-video/
            2. What to feed backyard ducks to maximize their health and longevity: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/what-to-feed-pet-or-backyard-ducks-to-maximize-their-health-and-longevity/

    • Reply
      Bob
      February 12, 2023 at 2:46 pm

      Hi, I have 2 hen ducks who finally started laying, and I want at least one of them to go broody in March-April. Since it’s February I don’t want them to brood yet, but I never collected about 5 days worth of eggs, and in the corner of the coop they’re all organized neatly in what looks like a clutch. No down or anything, though, just the eggs sitting there. If one of them is already trying to go broody, can I take the eggs thus breaking the broodiness and still have her go broody in a month?

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        February 12, 2023 at 3:39 pm

        Hi Bob! Yes, removing the eggs from the nest now under the circumstances you’ve described would prevent your duck from going broody.

    • Reply
      Donette
      February 10, 2023 at 3:23 pm

      how long do you wait before letting her out of cage. my welsh harlequin has laid daily in a beautiful nest she built in our duck house but just drops the egg and stays outside day and night. we just pulled all but 12 eggs and locked her in alone the cage. you mentioned dont touch them but we normally have ro chase her and physically put her in the cage. how l9ng should we leave her in before we let her out for sun water and pooping?

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        February 11, 2023 at 3:12 pm

        Hi! I’ll try to clarify things a bit to answer your questions:

        1. Assuming your duck is not already broody (it sounds like your girl isn’t), it may take 3-7 days of being caged on a nest for your duck to go broody. We recommend using fake eggs, but you can use real eggs if that’s easier for you.
        2. Initially, you should provide both food and water in the cage next to her nest. You should also let her out 2-3 times per day for sunlight, swims, etc. You’ll have to touch your duck to catch her, put her in her cage, etc. However, we recommend keeping physical contact to a minimum at this point (don’t pet them) otherwise you can delay or prevent them from going broody.
        3. Once she goes broody, you’ll know it. That’s because she won’t want to come off of her nest and her behavior will change. Even her voice will change a bit. From there, you’ll still need to remove her 2-3 times per day for sunlight, exercise, swim, etc.
        4. Pay close attention to the number of eggs. She should stop laying eggs within a few days of going broody.
        5. How long you wait from the day she stops laying until the day you remove her from her nest to put her back outside is somewhat subjective. We usually wait about 30 days from start to finish to mimic a natural brooding cycle, but you don’t have to wait that long.

        Hope this answers your questions, but let me know if you need anything else!

    • Reply
      Hayden Sykes
      October 8, 2022 at 7:10 am

      Fascinating, educating and thoroughly enjoyable advice on how to get ducks to get broody. Found it whilst trying to find advice on the opposite problem!

      We have 2 Khaki Campbell’s which have both laid at one time or another, but never for more than about 3-4 months. In fact, one has only laid for a couple of 2 month periods. They’re now approaching 2 years old, have a 20 ft pond, surrounded by grass, and a choice of nesting areas and shelters. They’re fed layers mash, with treats of fish pellets (love ’em!) and lettuce leaves.

      If you’ve had reason to write any advice on LOW egg production, I’d really appreciate a steer on how to find it. Khaki Campbells are supposed to be pretty prolific, aren’t they?

      All the very best,

      Hayden

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        October 10, 2022 at 11:03 am

        Hi Hayden! That’s a very odd scenario you’ve described. 

        Yes, Khaki Campbells are considered excellent egg layers. In our article about duck breed comparisons (https://www.tyrantfarms.com/how-to-choose-the-best-duck-breed-or-breeds-for-you/) we detail that they can lay up to 240 eggs/year with a laying score of 8.5 out of 10. The only breeds we know of that have the potential to be more prolific layers are Golden 300, Hybrid Layer, and White Layer. 
        It sounds like you’re feeding your Khakis for maximum egg production. The only three possibilities we can think of that would cause lower egg production under the circumstances you’ve described are: 

        1) Low light levels. Are your ducks in a shady spot for most of the day? Just to clarify, seasonal sunlight fluctuations affect egg production. Ducks need at least 14 hours of daylight to produce eggs, but if they’re in a spot that’s shady, they might not be getting the light stimulation they need for egg production. Just for clarity, this does NOT mean ducks should be forced to live in full blazing sun during the hot months – they should always have shady spots to retreat to if they desire. 

        2. Hiding eggs. Is it possible your ducks have a really good hiding spot for their eggs? You’d probably notice this by the awful smell produced once the eggs went bad at some point, but it’s worth considering. Our ducks can be quite sneaky when it comes to hiding eggs – especially when they lay outside their coops. 

        3. Breeding. Did you get your ducks from a source like Metzer Farms or somewhere else? Big breeders tend to breed with egg production in mind, whereas a local/backyard breeder might not. 
        Hope this helps narrow down a cause of your low egg production! 

    • Reply
      Emily
      February 24, 2022 at 12:08 pm

      Hi! I’m hoping you’ll have some advice regarding our Khaki Campbell. She has laid an egg every day for over 18 months. She seems perfectly healthy and the eggs are still normal (hard-shelled, no deformity, etc), but her last two molts have been incomplete, presumably because she doesn’t stop laying during them. She only has new feathers on about half of her body and the older feathers have lost their waterproofing, so she no longer bathes/swims. I would really love to halt her egg-laying so she can do a complete molt and rest her body, but I worry that the broodiness won’t take due to her being a Khaki Campbell. From what I’ve read, they almost never display any maternal behavior. Do you think it’s worth trying or have any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks for your time!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        February 24, 2022 at 1:18 pm

        Hi Emily! Yikes, 18 months straight of egg laying is a lot of stress and strain on a little duck body.

        Years back, we had a similar situation with a duck and it ended up causing ovarian damage, so she no longer lays eggs. Odd as it sounds, this caused her body to stop producing female hormones (the default sex in ducks is male) so she now displays secondary sex characteristics of a drake, e.g. she looks like a boy duck. (If you’re interested you can read details here: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/can-birds-change-sex-the-curious-story-of-mary-marty-the-duck/)

        Now, I’m not saying any of that is going to happen to your duck, only that laying eggs for that duration takes a LOT out of them and can cause damage to their reproductive system in addition to a wide range of other health problems, some of which you’re starting to experience. So you definitely want to get her to stop laying eggs asap in order to molt, remineralize, and recover.

        We only know of two ways to make a duck stop laying eggs:
        1) Make them go broody, as we detail in this article.
        2) Get an avian vet to do a deslorelin implant (the brand name medication vets use is Suprelorin).

        Making a duck go broody can be a pain for all involved, but it’s free and doesn’t require a hormonal injection. A deslorelin implant is going to likely run you at least a couple hundred dollars, but it’s fast-acting and guaranteed to shut down your duck’s reproductive processes within 1-2 weeks. She’ll be molting shortly thereafter. (We’ve taken this route a couple times over the years.) The implant is a good option if you’re stretched for time and/or have a duck who refuses to go broody.

        If you’re wondering what the heck deslorelin is, it’s a synthetic gonadotropin-releasing hormone (GnRH) agonist deslorelin acetate. Non-jargon: it’s a synthetic version of a hormone birds/ducks naturally make, and the continuous, high-dose presence of the hormone (via the implant) quickly shuts down the processes that lead to reproduction/egg laying. The effects of a deslorelin implant will last for 4-8 months, depending on the implant your vet uses. Either timespan should hopefully be enough for recovery and remineralization, assuming they have good nutrition, time in the sun, etc.

        Not sure of your exact circumstances, but you could always try to make your duck go broody (example: give it two weeks of effort) and then if things just aren’t going as hoped/planned, you could opt for the implant. Either way, since your duck has been laying non-stop for 18 months and is beginning to display outward signs of health issues, you want to get moving on it as soon as you’re able to.

        Best of luck and please keep us posted on how things go, for our sake and the sake of other readers!

    Leave a Reply

    Recipe Rating




    Recipes

    Recipe: Elderflower kombucha

    Recipe: Elderflower kombucha thumbnail

    Find out how to make elderflower kombucha: a delicious easy-to-make beverage with probiotic properties. 


    If you go into our kitchen, you’ll see a large glass jar with a breathable cloth affixed over the lid. Inside the jar is a honey-colored liquid with what appears to be a mysterious sea creature floating on the surface. 

    Pet jellyfish? Albino seaweed? 

    The Tyrant Farms kombucha.

    The Tyrant Farms kombucha jar.

    Nope, the floating mass isn’t a sea creature or even a single organism. It’s actually a holobiont; a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) that makes the drink called kombucha.

    Our kombucha SCOBY lives in a sugar-rich black and green tea mixture. After 2-4 weeks, the SCOBY has digested nearly all the sugar in the tea, converting it into gluconic and acetic acid. At that point, we strain out the SCOBY mother, refrigerate the liquid to arrest continued fermentation, and repeat the process.

    Yes, making your own kombucha is ridiculously easy and there’s no reason to buy a bottle of expensive commercial kombucha when you can make your own. This is especially true when you know how to start making your own flavored kombuchas with garden-fresh or foraged ingredients like elderflowers.

    A handful of freshly processed elderflowers from our garden.

    A handful of freshly processed elderflowers from our garden.

     

    Continue Reading

    No Comments

      Leave a Reply

      Recipe Rating




      Gardening

      Easiest fruit to grow organically in the southeastern US

      Easiest fruit to grow organically in the southeastern US thumbnail

      What’s the easiest fruit to grow organically in the southeastern United States? Over the past 10+ years, we’ve grown (or tried to grow) pretty much every type of fruit that can live in our climate zone. Here’s a list of 30+ types of fruit you can grow organically, ranked from easiest to hardest. 


      One question that’s popped up a lot over the years from new (and sometimes experienced) gardeners we know is: “is that fruit easy to grow organically here?” Depending on the fruit, our answer may be yes, somewhat, no, or don’t even try it. 

      Want to grow organic fruit in the southeast? Read through our list of easiest and hardest to go fruit species before you invest time and money in fruit plants.

      Want to grow organic fruit in the southeast? Read through our list of easiest and hardest to go fruit species before you invest time and money in fruit plants.

      Continue Reading

      16 Comments

      • Reply
        Kayla
        June 11, 2025 at 10:45 am

        Thank you for sharing all of this info. I first arrived at your blog a few years ago when I was preparing to acquire ducks for our little homestead (we included a few welshies, of course!). Today I came hunting for information on growing raspberries as I just purchased some and THEN began reading about how impossible it would be to grow them organically here. I really appreciate being able to hear from someone close by, we live about an hour or so south of you in Prosperity. I was wondering if you have any recommendations for sourcing the plants that you mentioned in this blog?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          June 11, 2025 at 1:58 pm

          If you want to grow organic cane berries (including raspberries) here, you’ll definitely want to read our article: 6 tips for growing organic blackberries and raspberries in the southeast – https://www.tyrantfarms.com/tips-for-growing-organic-blackberries-and-raspberries-in-southeast/. We originally purchased our raspberry plants at a small nursery in Asheville, but it’s been so long that I don’t remember the name. I’d call around to area nurseries to see what your options are, put the varieties into a spreadsheet, do a bit of research, then drive to the nursery (or nurseries) with the varietal options that sound like the best match for you.

      • Reply
        Anthony
        May 3, 2025 at 3:21 pm

        Yall need to try Keiffer pears. I’ve planted moonglow and Bartlett with varying success. Moonglow is annoyingly susceptible to fire blight. One thing I learned was to let certain varieties heal themselves. After I stopped pruning off the blight, I realized the moonglow pear tree usually can survive a bout of fire blight. The Kieffer pear is my all star. Produces every year with no need to ever spray anything. In my experience the easiest fruit to grow here in SC is blueberries. I never have to do anything and get literal gallons from one bush (and I have 11 of them). Mine are Rabbiteye varieties and the only pest I have is birds. They always get a few but never make a dent because I have so many bushes.
        As for grapes, I grow Mars variety of Bunching Grapes. Only had one issue with black rot and after that one season, they’ve been stellar. Again, only pest I have is birds. Deer will annihilate them too, so I built a fence around them. I hope my experiences can help somebody.

        • Reply
          Susan von Frank
          May 5, 2025 at 12:18 pm

          Good tip on pear varieties, thanks Anthony! We’ll try those. Agree on blueberries: we have many bushes and do nothing to them other than mulch them (for weed suppression and soil fertility) and let our ducks poop underneath them for extra fertilizer. We also do quite well on grapes, despite Japanese beetles love for our non-muscadine varieties/species. We primarily use Surround WP (aka kaolin clay) to control those.

        • Reply
          Kayla
          June 11, 2025 at 10:40 am

          I agree about the Keiffer pears. We have one tree growing on our property that has been severely neglected for over a decade, and we harvested 15 gallons off of it last year! It also seems that blueberries are really easy to grow in my area because we have 2 bushes that have also been neglected, and they continue to thrive. In fact, one had a cedar tree growing in it and the other had an enormous pine tree growing in it…we pulled the trees up last year and the blueberry bushes are still producing this year, I’m surprised by what they seem able to handle. They are also in heavy clay soil. Now that we are living on our property, we are trying to clean things up. Last week I removed several shoots from the blueberry bushes and replanted them elsewhere. I hope they survive so that we can have a blueberry grove, which is a long time dream of ours!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 11, 2025 at 1:43 pm

            Thanks for confirming the ability to grow Keiffer pears here in the southeast, Kayla! Now we’re going to have to figure out where on our property we can find or make room for a tree. We have the same experience as you do with blueberries – we do virtually nothing to our plants other than putting mulch underneath them each year, yet they’ve been highly productive for over a decade. We have some varieties that produce a lot of runners and some that don’t. When we dig up the runners, we’ll baby them in small pots with well-draining potted soil in a shady place for about 4-6 weeks until their roots establish and they show signs of new leaf growth. Then we move them into full sun for about a month before transplanting (or wait until fall for transplanting).

      • Reply
        Matthew
        March 28, 2025 at 8:46 am

        I have had amazing success with Asian Pears in Midlands of South Carolina. With their thick skin they are almost completely bug resistant until they get overripe. I have two varieties in my yard, my favorite is the 20th Century Asian Pear. I do have some struggles with disease I’m hoping I can find a good solution for.

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          March 31, 2025 at 11:08 am

          Thanks for the input, Matthew! Yes, we’ve seen people successfully grow pears here (fireblight-resistant Asian varieties). My parents have a lakehouse in Summerton, SC, where they have an Asian pear tree that produces over a thousand pounds of fruit each year.

      • Reply
        David
        August 6, 2023 at 10:36 pm

        Great info, even if, like myself, one lives in upstate California.

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          August 7, 2023 at 10:19 am

          Ha! Thanks David. Could be wrong, but I think you may have any easier time growing organic fruit in upstate California than we do here in the Southeast US.

      • Reply
        Lindsey
        February 21, 2022 at 10:20 pm

        What a helpful blog post! Thank you! I have been searching for a guide of easy care fruiting plants suited for South Carolina. I’ve grown fig trees and blueberry bushes, but now I’m excited to try out a few more plants from your list. Also, this past summer I spotted some maypop fruit and flowers on the roadside, but I never knew what they were much less that they were edible. I can’t wait to give them a try in the upcoming season. Additionally, I wanted to ask if you’d ever tried growing loquat trees? I have seen numerous loquat trees fruiting and seemingly thriving in my area (North Augusta, SC).

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          February 21, 2022 at 10:58 pm

          Thanks Lindsey! When you first try maypops/passionfruit, know that if it’s not out-of-this world delicious then the fruit was almost certainly underripe. It takes a bit of experience to know when they’re ripe if you’re picking them off the vine. Of course, if they’ve already dropped off or pull off easily, you know you’ve likely got a good one.

          As for loquats, they won’t produce fruit as far north as we are (Greenville, SC). Our winters are too cold. They will survive and may even produce some flowers, but no fruit. We’ve had friends give it a shot with no luck, but we haven’t bothered. We LOVE loquat fruit and are lucky to have an abundant supply from our family in Lowstate SC (Santee and Mount Pleasant) when they’re in season. Where you are in N Augusta, it’s probably worth giving it a shot. In cold years, you may not get fruit but you could in warm years.

          Best of luck in your fruit-growing adventures!

      • Reply
        Ryan
        May 19, 2021 at 7:47 am

        Aaron and Susan,

        Thank you for creating this blog/website. Your style of writing is easy to read and follow.
        My wife and I live in Belton, SC, and we share your passion of permaculture and edible gardens. We are not very intelligent in terms of what grows best and how to layout a “naturally” planted landscape, but we can learn anything. We have some land with a vision of fruit trees, wine grapes, veges, all being grown as natural as possible with a no till permaculture approach. We would like to use the land as is without changing nature as much as possible. Problem is, we have little clue as to how plants should be placed with our goals. Our desire is to plant edible items in their natural growing space and our experience is we’ve only grown gardens produced by tilling the land and buying plants from box stores.
        The question I have is, do you offer consultation and planning advice for permaculture farming? You seem extremely knowledgeable and you are within my growing region of 7b.
        I’d love to meet with you and develop a plan. Please contact me when you have an opportunity.
        Thank you,
        Ryan Anzur

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          May 19, 2021 at 12:11 pm

          Hi Ryan! Thanks for the kind words. I don’t have the capacity to do farm/permaculture consulting work, but I’d be happy to connect you to some folks that do that sort of thing. I’ll email you directly.

      • Reply
        Kate Reznikov
        May 11, 2021 at 2:10 pm

        I enjoyed reading this article.
        Very rich and informative.
        I live in Brooklyn NY and hoping to relocate to SC soon
        Counting days.
        This is what we want to do. To grow our garden and eat what we grow.

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          May 12, 2021 at 7:23 am

          Thanks, Kate! And welcome (almost) to South Carolina. Best of luck growing fruit and other garden produce when you get here. 🙂

      Leave a Reply

      Recipe Rating




      Gardening Recipes

      Recipe: Savory garden green crepes

      Recipe: Savory garden green crepes thumbnail

      You’ll love this delicious and simple savory crepe recipe made with organic whole wheat flour, duck eggs, fresh garden greens & herbs! 


      Mmm, crêpes. Or just simply crepes if you want to drop the circumflex (the fancy ^ mark) and appear less pretentious. 

      When I was a kid, the only homemade breakfast that made me more excited than waffles or pancakes was crepes. My mom would typically reserve crepes for: 1) special occasions, and 2) times when we had fresh, seasonal berries. 

      I drool a little bit thinking about mom’s blueberry crepes with freshly made whipped cream. 

      Savory crepes? Yes, please.  

      Savory crepe recipe - crepes stuffed full of fresh seasonal goodies. Read on for DIY instructions and ingredients!

      Savory crepes stuffed full of fresh seasonal goodies. Read on for DIY instructions and ingredients!

      Continue Reading

      No Comments

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Ducks

        5 steps: how to raise & harvest mealworms

        5 steps: how to raise & harvest mealworms thumbnail

        Raising mealworms is an easy way to produce a high-protein food for your poultry (or for adventuresome humans). Mealworms also turn food scraps into a nutrient-rich fertilizer that’s great for your garden or potted plants. In this article, you’ll find out how to easily & affordably raise your own mealworms! 


        We’ve been raising mealworms for over five years. Without question, of all the plants and animals we raise, mealworms are by far the easiest life form to maintain.     

        In fact, there are periods where we get so busy that we forget about tending to our mealworms for weeks at a time. Then we panic, rush to check on them, and find they’re still plugging along — albeit a little hungrier with a less populated home. That’s our kind of critter! 

        What are mealworms? 

        In case you’ve never heard of them, mealworms aren’t actually worms, they’re insects. They’re actually the larval stage of mealworm beetles (Tenebrio molitor), a species of Darkling beetle

        What are mealworms? Mealworm (left) are the larvae of mealworm beetles (Tenebrio molitor), a species of Darkling beetle. Adult mealworm beetles are on the right in this picture.

        Mealworm (left) are the larvae of mealworm beetles (Tenebrio molitor), a species of Darkling beetle. Adult mealworm beetles are on the right in this picture.

        Why do we bother to raise mealworms? What do we use them for? And — perhaps most importantly — how can you raise your own mealworms? 

        Let’s jump in and get answers to all your mealworm questions! 

        Continue Reading

        2 Comments

        • Reply
          Wendy
          October 5, 2021 at 6:33 pm

          This article facinated me. I wanted to know more so I went to the link from Stanford that you provided. The study was done in 2015, so I was curious if there was a follow up, or more newer information. Turns out that there was another study and report dated 2019 which found that toxic chemicles in the polystyrene that are added as flame retardants are excreated by the meal worm without being broken down. So while the mealworm takes care of the polystyrene, and seperates out the toxic chemicals that were once together, it’s frass might not be so great to put on your plants. I thought you would want to know. Here is where I found this information. https://news.stanford.edu/2019/12/19/mealworms-provide-plastic-solution/
          Thanks for your blog. I am learning a lot.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 6, 2021 at 8:02 am

            Thanks much, Wendy! That’s good to know. Thankfully, the mealworm frass we’ve used on our plants has always been from digested foodscraps not styrofoam. We’ll definitely update the article with the information you’ve shared here.

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Gardening

        How to get skunk smell off your cat or dog

        How to get skunk smell off your cat or dog thumbnail

        Here’s a step-by-step guide showing you how to safely and effectively get skunk smell off your cat or dog in one treatment. Since we’ve gotten skunk spray off of our cat six times, we now consider ourselves experts!  


        It’s 5am. You’re peacefully sleeping with your spouse and duck in your bed.

        Duck sleeping on woman in bed.

        Svetlana the duck sleeping (sort of) on The Tyrant.

        Your unconscious mind is suddenly confronted with a smell so noxious that it triggers you to wake up. Groggy, you look at the foot of your bed and see your rotund, orange tabby cat loudly purring and staring back at you.

        In a moment of horror, you realize that the smell wasn’t a dream: your pet has been doused in skunk spray, and he is happily spreading the skunk odor throughout your house, including your bed.

        Gag. Yes, this actually happened to us. In fact, after six skunk sprayings, we’ve come to believe that our cat must really enjoy getting sprayed by skunks.

        Funny thing: the first time this took place, my wife (The Tyrant) said she was dreaming about walking through a perfume section at a mall when she was suddenly sprayed with a new fragrance that woke her up. For the record “Ode de moufette” (that’s “skunk” in French) would not be a popular perfume, despite what Pepé Le Pew may believe.

        How and why do skunks spray cats and dogs?

        If you’ve never smelled skunk before, count yourself lucky. It smells like burning car tires and sulfur – and it does not dissipate with time. In fact, unlike other smells, you don’t seem to get used to it with time; it gets worse and starts to cause a slight burning feeling in your nasal passages.

        This wretched scent is so bad that it even scares off wolves, bears, and coyotes. Skunks can hit their target from as far away as 10 feet, so Bob the Cat didn’t even have to be that close to Pepé to get sprayed. Bob the Cat is likely not blameless even though he’s confined to his yard with an electric cat fence/collar.

        Skunks do NOT just spray for the heck of it. It’s a last resort. Once they’ve exhausted their defensive spray, it can take them up to 10 days to reload, leaving them defenseless in the meantime.

        That means Bob the Cat must have given the skunk good reason to spray him.

        how to get skunk smell off your cat / How we imagine our front yard to look when our cats (and the offending skunk) are outside.

        How we imagine our front yard to look when our cats (and the offending skunk) are outside.

        Yes, you HAVE to get the skunk spray off your cat (or dog)

        Bad news: our cat gets sprayed by skunks constantly. Good news: we now know how to get the smell off and we keep all the skunk spray removal ingredients on-hand at all times, similar to a first aid kit. 

        If you have a similar problem, we’ll show you how to make your own DIY skunk-smell removal kit. 

        How long does it take for the smell of skunk to go away? 

        If your cat or dog is sprayed by a skunk, doing nothing is NOT an option because the skunk smell can linger on your pet’s fur for up to three weeks. All the while, your pet will spread that awful skunk smell around your house… which can also last for three weeks.

        If that’s not motivation enough for you to take action, then consider this: that foul-smelling skunk spray comes from a skunk’s anal glands. Blech. Motivated yet? We thought so! 

        Below, we’re going to tell you exactly how to permanently get skunk smell off your cat or dog in one fell swoop.

        First, we should say that if your pet was sprayed in the eyes, is foaming at the mouth, or has injuries on it (from an actual physical encounter with a skunk), you should plan to bring your pet straight to the vet. 

        Step-by-step guide: how to get skunk smell off your cat or dog

        If your pet is physically fine, other than being godawful smelly, follow these instructions to get the skunk spray smell off:

        Step 1. Get another person to help. 

        Unless your cat likes to be bathed (doubtful), you’re going to need two people (one to hold the cat, the other to apply the various applications and wash the cat… and maybe take a picture or twenty).

        Both people would be smart to wear rubber kitchen gloves throughout the process. This keeps you from getting skunky and provides a bit of extra protection from errant cat claws.

        Step 2. Gather the ingredients. 

        To remove the skunk spray, you’ll need the following ingredients:

        • Dawn liquid dish detergent,
        • hydrogen peroxide,
        • baking soda,
        • animal shampoo, and
        • a bucket

        The “recipe” is down below. Bring all “ingredients” to your bathtub and mix right before you’re going to use them.

        Step 3: Wet the cat with warm water. 

        While one person holds the cat, the other person needs to pour warm water over the cat. Be careful not to pour water down the cats ears or into its eyes.

        Step 4: First wash. 

        Now you’re ready for the FIRST wash.

        You’re going to use straight Dawn detergent here. FYI: this is the same stuff that animal rescue folks use to wash animals caught in oil spills. It truly is “tough on grease,” and it will help to start breaking apart the oily disgustingness of the skunk spray.

        Once lathered, rinse the cat, while one person continues to hold the poor creature in place and try to comfort it.

        Step 5: Second wash. 

        The recipe for the second wash is:

        • 1 quart peroxide,
        • ¼ cup baking soda,
        • 1 tsp Dawn liquid detergent.

        Mix all ingredients together in your bucket. Then scrub the cat thoroughly with the mixture.

        This wash oxidizes the thiol compounds in the skunk spray (the most offensive part of the skunk smell). Once fully lathered, let the mixture sit on the cat for 5-15 minutes (the longer the better if your pet really smells). Then rinse off the cat using warm water.

        How to get skunk smell off your pet. A cat being washed to remove skunk spray smell.

        Bob the Cat not-so-patiently waiting for his 5-15 minutes to be up.

        Step 6: THIRD wash.

        This is the final wash to help get rid of any remaining offensive skunk smell and mask whatever lingering odors remain with something more pleasant. We used a natural, clove-based flea & tick shampoo that we had from when someone originally dropped off stray cats on our doorstep.

        Once fully lathered, rinse the creature off with water. If you have a cat, they’re not likely to be terribly happy about any of this, so long sleeve shirts and gloves may be warranted. 

        Step 7: Dry your pet.

        You’ve survived! Now, it’s time to towel, blow dry or air dry your pet, while providing plenty of reassurance that it’s still loved. Treats come in handy here.

        how to get skunk smell off your cat

        Bob the formerly skunk-sprayed cat getting hair dried after his skunk spray removal treatment.

        All is forgiven! Bob the cat napping in our bed with no offensive skunk smell. He's likely dreaming of his next fight with a skunk though.

        All is forgiven! Bob the cat napping in our bed with no offensive skunk smell. He’s likely dreaming of his next fight with a skunk though.

        Other questions about how to get rid of skunk smell in your house or on your pets…

        Does tomato juice get rid of skunk smell on cats and dogs? 

        Despite what some people say, NO, tomato juice does not effectively get rid of skunk spray. It will temporarily make your pet smell more like a tomato though. We don’t think skunk marinara is that much of an improvement over pure skunk smell.

        Does Febreeze, citrus oil, or vinegar get rid of skunk smell?

        No. Febreeze does not get rid of skunk smell. Neither will citrus oil or perfume. Neither will vinegar.

        You have to break apart the oils in the skunk spray and thoroughly remove the volatile compounds using the methods and ingredients recommended above. 

        How do you get the skunk smell out of your house? 

        Yes, we’ve had to figure out how to get skunk smell out of our house and belongings as well. (Thanks, Bob!) First, open all your windows, then go through this list as necessary:

        How do you get skunk smell out of carpet?

        Lucky enough, you can remove the skunk smell from your carpet using the exact steps and ingredients listed above.

        How do you get skunk smell off of tile or hardwood floors or walls?

        Scrub any spots with skunk spray on them with hot soapy water using dawn dish detergent. Use a sponge on your walls, not anything abrasive, or you risk scrubbing off your paint.

        How do you get skunk smell out of clothes and bedding?

        Set your washer on a high water heat setting and run it through a cycle. Smell and repeat as many times as necessary.

        How do you get skunk spray off of upholstery? 

        Getting skunk smell off of your upholstery is the trickiest of them all. You want to be careful not to make the colors run or stain.

        Combine 1 quart peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda, and 1 tsp Dawn liquid detergent in a bucket. Test an inconspicuous spot on the chair/sofa using a rag or washcloth. If it doesn’t stain or cause the fabric colors to bleed, scrub the skunk-sprayed spots until clean.

        You’ll need to rinse and wash the washcloth as you go. Repeat as many times as necessary into the skunk smell is gone.

        How can you keep your cat or dog from getting sprayed by a skunk? 

        Skunks are nocturnal creatures with poor eyesight, but a keen sense of smell and hearing. As mentioned above, they only spray when they feel surprised, threatened, and/or attacked.

        A few tips for keeping your dog or cat from getting sprayed by a skunk:

        • Don’t let your pet out at night unless you’re walking them on a leash.
        • Keep your pets in a fenced back yard where skunks are less likely to have access.
        • Put a bell collar on your pets so that skunks can hear them and (hopefully) get away before a smelly encounter happens.

        How do you avoid getting sprayed by a skunk?

        For the past two summers, we’ve had a momma skunk raise her young under our porch (The Tyrant fell in love with the creature and feeds it).

        We’ve also had to trap and release skunks from ground hog traps.

         

         
         
         
         
         
        View this post on Instagram
         
         
         
         
         
         
         
         
         

         

        “Honey, I don’t think that’s a groundhog.” We set out traps so we can relocate the groundhogs that have been fattening themselves for winter hibernation on some of our garden beds. Note to self: close the traps before dark or you’ll catch other critters too. This cute little skunk spent the night in a cage, but at least it got to dine on apple slices and peanut butter. It was not at all aggressive. We walked very slowly towards it and covered the cage with a blanket just in case it felt threatened enough to spray. Once the trap’s door was opened, it hung out inside for a few more minutes before scurrying off into the woods. Gorgeous little critter. #skunksofinstagram #skunk #skunkfest

        A post shared by Tyrant Farms (@tyrantfarms) on

        So we know how NOT to get sprayed by a skunk ourselves:

        • If you go outside at night, turn on the lights and bring a flashlight so you can see any potential skunks.
        • Make noise (clapping or whistling is good) so any skunk know you’re there. If they can’t smell or hear you, you can surprise them.
        • If you see a skunk, stop, make some noise, and let it move away on its own. Don’t act threatening or go within 15 feet of the skunk.

        We hope this article helps you and your pet survive a skunk-spray emergency.

        How to remove skunk odor from your cat or dog

        how to get skunk smell off your cat

        KIGI,

        2 Comments

        • Reply
          Liz P.
          November 1, 2019 at 10:52 pm

          Much as I would have been very happy never to need this article, I was very glad to find it today. One of my cats got sprayed while out in our catio last night (Halloween), so for some Friday night fun, hubby & I gloves up and washed the cat… three times. He seems to smell better, so fingers crossed this does the trick. Thanks for the helpful, straightforward advice, and to the cooperative photo model (though it sounds like he could stand to provide a little less fodder for this column.)

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            November 7, 2019 at 3:23 pm

            Ha! Sorry for your pain, Liz. Hopefully, kitty continues to smell better for your sake and his.

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Foraged Gardening

        Tradescantia virginiana – a native edible plant common in home landscapes

        Tradescantia virginiana - a native edible plant common in home landscapes thumbnail

        In our Zone 7b garden, there’s a gorgeous, purple-flowering plant that’s covered with pollinators from May – July: Tradescantia virginiana. This plant is fairly common in flower gardens due to its showy blooms, but we feel it deserves a closer look due to its edibility as well… 

        Tradescantia virginiana (purple flowers in back row) in bloom in our front yard in early June.

        Tradescantia virginiana (purple flowers in back row) in bloom in our front yard in early June.

        Continue Reading

        7 Comments

        • Reply
          Michelle
          June 7, 2025 at 6:25 pm

          We are just beginning our urban homestead adventure and have a lot of this volunteering in our space. This article has given me a lot more (much-needed) appreciation for the opportunistic Tradescantia Virginiana! I came to this article from a link on your Stridolo page (the most informative on the topic that I have found thus far). Thank you so much for your outstanding blog!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 9, 2025 at 10:12 am

            Thanks so much, Michelle! Glad the information shared has been helpful for you. Best of luck in your urban homestead adventures!

        • Reply
          Logan Addison
          March 8, 2025 at 6:12 am

          Another for the flowers! Remove the reproductive parts in the middle (alternatively pluck the petals however doing so is more likey to bruise them which results in a less desirable end product), then dry the petals (a day on a windowsill can be all thats needed for these thin thin thinnnnnn petals), store as is once dried from here or move onto these next steps immediately, then grind or crumble the petals into a fine powder. Guess what, we’ve just gone on a journey together creating plant-based and natural purple food dye! Mix the powder into icecreams, puddings, frostings, the likes. I would keep this one to using with things that do not get cooked but just combined. For example, adding the powder to a cake batter would result in a more gray-tinged cake after baking rather than purple, the heat seems to destroy the pigments. Cheers!

        • Reply
          Sara
          May 7, 2024 at 2:59 pm

          I just broiled some like asparagus with olive oil, salt and pepper. The leaves crisp like broiled cabbage and the pods are really good too. I’m going to try again by starting with the stalks, then adding leaves, followed by the leaves. Its all really quiet good.

        • Reply
          Pcwalker
          June 3, 2020 at 9:14 pm

          I have lots of Tradescantia and love it as an ornamental. My mother grew it and as a child I used to love to squish the purple flowers and think it would make a great ink or dye, if only I could figure it out. It was fun reading your article about the many ways to eat it.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 4, 2020 at 10:09 am

            Tradescantia virginiana is a really beautiful plant. It would be interesting to try to make an ink with the flowers – maybe you could paint with it? 🙂 It seems like the purple color oxidizes relatively quickly and turns brown but adding some acid might help arrest that process.

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Foraged Gardening

        Plantain: a common edible weed that treats bee and other insect stings

        Plantain: a common edible weed that treats bee and other insect stings thumbnail

        Plantain (Plantago spp.) is a common weedy plant found growing throughout the world, in urban and rural areas alike. Plantain is also edible and has a long history of use as a medicinal plant — including treating bee and wasp stings. 


        The other day, The Tyrant and I were walking our property with our baby, Sebastian. I stopped to harvest stinging nettle and Susan wandered about showing Sebastian flowers and other plants. 

        A few minutes later, I heard Susan’s panicked voice and saw her running towards me on the garden path. “Help, there’s a honeybee trying to sting me!” (Much scarier when a bee can sting your baby, too.)

        It was a cooler morning, so Susan was wearing a long black sweater. To a worker honeybee, this type of attire looks far too similar to a bear and triggers a defensive reaction. “Sting the bear before it gets our hive,” is what was going through the worker bee’s mind.  

        Next thing I knew, Susan yelped. The bee stung her through her pants on the top of her leg. 

        We both knew exactly what to do next in order to treat the oncoming pain and inflammatory response: get to the nearest plantain plant in our yard. (And remember not to wear dark-colored clothes near our beehive.) 

        A broadleaf plantain (Plantago) growing in our yard. Plantain leaves are our go-to medicine for treating insect stings.

        A broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) growing in our yard. Plantain leaves are our go-to medicine for treating insect stings.

        Continue Reading

        10 Comments

        • Reply
          C.A. Simonson
          June 26, 2023 at 12:04 pm

          I have found many uses for my broadleaf plantain. Medicinally, I dried the leaves, soaked them in coconut oil and then made them into an ointment along with purple deadnettle. We have found it relieves achy muscles within 20 minutes. I’ve picked very young leaves and sauteed them in bacon grease with a little garlic salt. YUM! Nature’s potato chip! Cooking the young leaves along with a few drops of lemon juice makes them taste like spinach. I’ve also toasted the seeds and used as a salad topping.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 27, 2023 at 10:20 am

            Good tips for eating broadleaf plantain, thanks C.A.!

        • Reply
          Lance Homman
          April 21, 2023 at 10:59 pm

          The most amazing benefit of broadleaf plantain is in the neutralization of brown recluse venom. As you noted above, chew up the leaves to release the sap, then apply as a poultice directly over the bite site for 24 hours. At that point, the poultice will have drawn the venom and infection from the site leaving it pink and healthy again. I’ve used this to help 8 different skeptics, all of whom were converted to big believers in the power of plantain. I now pick it every spring and dry it for future use. Reconstituted in water, it still works quite well.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 24, 2023 at 11:22 am

            Interesting, thanks for your note, Lance! Thankfully, we’ve never been bitten by a brown recluse spider, nor has anyone we know. (Knock on wood.) But if that should occur in the future, this will be a helpful reference. Related: I just used chewed plantain sap on my toddler’s stinging nettle sting yesterday and it seemed to be quickly helpful as a remedy for that as well. Great plant!

        • Reply
          Terry
          August 17, 2022 at 3:07 pm

          I just learned about various plants that can be used for medicine and plantain was one of them we have many plantain plants growing in our front yard and I use to mow them down. But now I harvest them along with other herbs. One that also works for bee /wasp stings is lamb ears plant. In fact I just got stung by a wasp and use that first then change over to the plantain leaves. The pain was gone in a few seconds and the swelling is not that bad. You have a great article thanks for the info

          • Reply
            Susan von Frank
            August 19, 2022 at 10:21 am

            Thanks, Terry! Glad to hear that you’re now using plantain and other useful plants around you. We actually didn’t know about lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina) being helpful for insect stings until your comment, even though we do grow it. It’s actually a pretty good edible plant as well that tastes mildly like pineapple and mint. Our toddler loves to eat it – ha! Our go-to for insect stings continues to be a quickly chewed up plantain leaf, but there are certainly plenty of other plants that are also effective at taking away pain/inflammation caused by insect stings. Best to you!

        • Reply
          Brad Saunders
          June 9, 2021 at 8:18 pm

          Very good article.

          I actually stumbled across your page during a search. I was looking for some answerers as to why
          my Broadleaf Plantain which has formerly grown all over my lawn just suddenly disappeared this year.
          I formerly harvested my plantain for tea that I would drink throughout the winter. I prefer the taste of my
          own Maine plantain over the Ukrainian stuff I bought on Amazon.

          Do you have any thoughts?

          Thanks

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 10, 2021 at 12:15 pm

            Hmm, that is interesting. Most likely culprits would seem to be either herbicide exposure or disease. Plantains are pretty persistent plants and seed prolifically. Do you know of anything that’s changed or was different about your lawn this year relative to previous years? Another possibility is the plantains may have been killed via allelopathic properties of annual rye grass if you used that in your lawn. We detail that here: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/7-diy-organic-lawn-care-tips/.

        • Reply
          Bob Miyake-Stoner
          May 11, 2021 at 2:03 am

          I was delighted to find your article on the internet this evening. I Googled “plantain and stings”, knowing already the truth of what you write. Amazing it is to me how few references there are to plantain as a bee sting antidote. I am now 77 years old, and many, many years ago I got a hornet sting between my eyes at the center of my face. I immediately chewed on a plantain leaf and pressed it on. Very quickly, the pain disappeared and never returned. As best I can remember, it was less than a minute. That was in Pennsylvania, but I now live in Hawaii. I had to seek out the plant here since it was not on my own property. But today I have abundant patches of both broadleaf and narrow leaf. I do eat the leaves also, generally mixing young and tender ones with stir fry.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 11, 2021 at 12:47 pm

            Thanks for sharing your experience with a hornet sting and plantain – ouch! Yes, plantain is a versatile garden friend to have around. We were pleased to discover the edible and very tasty mature seed stalks which are delightful sauteed in olive oil. Yet another reason to grow plantain. Cheers to you from the mainland!

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Parenting

        Our breastfeeding nightmare: overcoming a tongue-tie (ankyloglossia)

        Our breastfeeding nightmare: overcoming a tongue-tie (ankyloglossia) thumbnail

        Our family overcame a tongue-tied baby (a condition known as ankyloglossia) and went on to successfully breastfeed. Here’s what we learned through the process… 


        Our purpose in writing this article is threefold:

        1. More people should know that breastfeeding is often incredibly difficult for moms (especially first-time moms). 
        2. Tongue-ties are frequently undiagnosed or misdiagnosed by pediatricians and other medical professionals, causing moms to wrongly blame themselves for breastfeeding problems or give up on breastfeeding prematurely. 
        3. If you have a tongue-tied baby, you’re not alone (far from it) — and there are steps you can take if you want to continue breastfeeding. 
        Sebastian asks that you keep reading through the difficult parts of this article and make it all the way to the happy ending!

        Sebastian asks that you keep reading through the difficult parts of this article and make it all the way to the happy ending.

        Continue Reading

        14 Comments

        • Reply
          Meg
          July 4, 2022 at 3:02 am

          Thanks so much for sharing your story – we are going through something similar and it gives me some hope! How was your wife able to get your son back to breastfeeding after he had developed a preference for the bottle? This is the part we are struggling with the most – my baby accepts the breast some of the time but will not take a full feeding at the breast as of now.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 5, 2022 at 11:03 am

            A few things helped us transition from the bottle back to breastfeeding. For one, I (Aaron) started doing “paced feeding” with the bottle with the intent of making it slower and more difficult for our baby to get a meal via bottle feeding so that it more closely approximated getting milk straight from the breast. They’re going to develop a preference for whatever provides the fastest, biggest meal so this is super important. Susan also started sitting on an exercise ball during breastfeeding in order to also lightly bounce our baby during breastfeeding sessions. He really liked the bouncing so this also added an additional positive reinforcement with breastfeeding. It still took time for the transition to completely click. Exactly how long is a little hazy in hindsight, but likely at least a month+ based on our recollection. It was a graduated process but one day it just sort of clicked and he was fully back to breastfeeding. Meg, hang in there if you can – you can do this!   

        • Reply
          Malvika Jethwani
          October 24, 2021 at 1:11 pm

          Hey guys! I’ve completed a month of exclusively breastfeeding my son Tivaan thanks to your blog!! If it wasn’t for the wisdom you have shared here, I wouldn’t have understood that healing from a tongue tie takes time! I would keep reminding myself each time I felt like giving up that it took you guys 8 weeks!! And so I should keep going because I haven’t hit the 8th week mark yet! Tivaan turned around in 4 weeks but still I was mentally prepared for 8 weeks thanks to your insights. Your tip on flange size was a true game changer for me as well!! I moved from size 24 mm Medela to size 21 mm Medela and within 10 days my supply had doubled! I went from needing 40% formula to no formula at all!! I also understood the right technique of paced feeding from you.. and it was the most valuable advice I received.. I broke his bottle preference thanks to your method of paced feeding of waiting for 30 secs at the beginning of the feed before letting the milk flow and tilting the bottle down every few sucks. More than anything, your story gave me hope.. thank you so much for sharing!

        • Reply
          Katherine
          May 24, 2021 at 5:59 pm

          Thank you for writing this! I am on week 6 of triple feeding my almost 7 week old daughter and it’s exhausting. Her tongue tie was revised when she was 3 weeks so we’re almost a month out from the procedure. While we’ve seen some improvement, it’s far from enough to stop triple feeding or modify what we’ve been doing. I’ve been feeling discouraged and just generally tired, questioning how long this is sustainable for me. Your experience has given me a little hope that if we can hang in there a few more weeks, we may get to drop the triple feeding for good without having to transition to formula.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 26, 2021 at 10:45 am

            Hi Katherine! We’re crazy busy and have family coming to see us so Susan (aka The Tyrant) isn’t currently able to reply to you with the degree of care your comment and experience deserve. Boy have we been there with you. If it was possible to chart the emotional and physical roller coaster of the journey from bottle > breastfeeding after our baby’s tongue-tie revision, it would look like a very jagged up and down line that ultimately kept going slowly (very slowly at times) and steadily up to the finish line. Triple feeding is absolutely exhausting; our hearts really go out to you. We were in a unique situation (working from home, etc) so we don’t want anyone/mom to feel bad or guilty if they can’t make it through. We hope sharing our experience is more educational in nature and to let other parents know it is possible to get back to breastfeeding if they have the capacity and resources to devote to making it happen. It sure as heck wasn’t easy, and it seemed impossible at various stages along the way. However, for us, it was totally worth it (with the benefit of hindsight). Susan still has a great breastfeeding relationship with almost 18 month old Sebastian. Are you working with an IBCLC on a regular basis? Having someone with lots of experience in our corner really helped Susan when doubt crept in or we weren’t sure things were going well.

        • Reply
          Mia
          March 20, 2021 at 10:59 pm

          Thank you for sharing your story. I can relate so much. My daughter was also born in 2019 and if I had known what I know now back then, she was have been breastfed. She couldn’t latch and I was distraught. I thought it had some thing to do with me. Being a new mom I just thought I was not doing it right. I was not able to breast feed her, thinking about it just makes me so emotional. I had to resort to formula. All the health care professionals I took her to, never once checked her tongue. She was hitting all her milestones but I noticed something was up when she tried to speak. I would talk with her and she wanted to talk back but it was just not clear, she seemed restricted. And I noticed when she lifted her tongue there was thing band that was hindering it. Then I researched what that could possibly be and it said tongue tie. So I took her to a pediatrician, they checked and she does in fact have a tongue tie. She is 21 month old, she talks a lot but it’s just really babbling. She can say probably 5 words the most clearly. However she understands commands. It has been almost two years of struggle. She has her next appointment coming up soon.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            March 21, 2021 at 9:42 am

            Ugh, so sorry Mia. It’s still baffling to us that tongue-ties seem to be both incredibly common AND seldom properly diagnosed within the healthcare community. We sure hope that changes soon because there are a lot of parents and babies out there suffering unnecessarily. You may want to also consider finding a pediatric dentist who does tongue-tie revisions + can walk you through what you’d need to do at this stage AFTER the procedure to make sure the tissue doesn’t grow back. Apparently, that’s another problem: some practitioners that do tongue-tie revisions don’t provide guidance for the tongue stretches that need to happen afterwards to prevent the tissue reforming and the issue from coming back. This also contributes to the misguided notion that the procedure isn’t very effective. It’s a mess out there on this one, and we’re sorry that your family is also having to wade through it. Best of luck moving forward!

        • Reply
          Pavan
          February 14, 2021 at 3:05 pm

          Thanks Aaron for the detailed article. Very much thankful for sharing. My daughter born last month was having same issues as your son and we never figured that out nor the pediatrics or the lactation consultants. As my wife was browsing for latching issues she found your article, and thanks to your detailed description we now know the exact problem, and will take future necessary steps. Take care. Cheers, Pavan.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            February 15, 2021 at 4:41 pm

            Thanks for your kind words, Pavan. Very sorry to hear that you and your wife experienced an undiagnosed tongue-tie with your baby. It’s a very difficult process to undergo, emotionally and otherwise. We’re incredibly grateful to our lactation consultant for figuring out the source problem and helping us overcome it. Our son eats primarily solid foods now, but still loves his breastfeeding relationship with mom. Best wishes to you and your family moving forward.

        • Reply
          MJ&Sean Smith
          May 24, 2020 at 11:34 am

          Fantastic article and you three are truly heroic! I got a bit teary reading this; I can’t imagine the distress you went through. SO glad that you found such amazing support to guide you through, and very happy that this story has a happy ending!! This article has got to be an excellent resource for every parent dealing with tongue and lip tie – and also those who have other difficulties with breastfeeding (or feeding in general). Even though our little guy does not have tongue and lip tie, you covered a lot of very useful information for me: I am now reevaluating our bottle nipples and my pump flanges. Thank you!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 25, 2020 at 3:03 pm

            Thanks so much, MJ! Glad you and Susan have become such good virtual friends over the past year. Hope our families are able to meet in person one day .

        • Reply
          Cecile Arquette
          May 19, 2020 at 2:38 pm

          Oh my goodness, I’m so sorry the three of you went through this! 18 years ago, our lactation consultant figured out Joel was tongue-tied within a week. But then we were told we had to wait 6 weeks for an appointment to get things taken care of because the ENT ‘didn’t have any appointments.’ Interestingly, to avoid bottle preference, we were shown how to give Joel milk from a tiny medicine cup. I’d try to feed, then pump and we’d sit Joel up and he’d suck the milk out of the cup. It was the strangest thing, having a tiny week old baby drinking like that. Joel ended up ripping his frenulum during an intense cry one day…and the problem was solved. Sebastian has a pair of wonderful parents for sticking through this very difficult time. He is absolutely adorable!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 19, 2020 at 11:06 pm

            Wow, what a story! We never even though about the possibility of using a sippy cup for Sebastian. 😛 Joel’s frenulum didn’t grow back? It sounds like he was able to breastfeed normally after that? Sorry for all the questions, we just find this topic so strange and interesting given our experiences. We’re also continuously amazed by how many parents seem to have had similar experiences.

            • Reply
              Cecile Arquette
              May 21, 2020 at 4:17 pm

              Joel’s frenulum never grew back, and we were never told to do any sort of stretching with him. Maybe they know more now, 18 years later? And yes, he did breast feed until he was 26 months old :-). By the way, we didn’t use a sippy cup, we used a medicine cup, like those that come with cough medicine. We just sat him up, supported his head and he sucked on the rim of the cup. We’d tilt it a little, he’d drink some more, then we’d fill it to the brim again. It was pretty crazy watching him do that!

        Leave a Reply

        Recipe Rating




        Native Passion Fruit (Passiflora Incarnata): How To Grow, Forage, & Eat How to hatch goose eggs – tips, tricks, and troubleshooting How to hatch duck eggs via a mama duck or incubator Best EDIBLE plants to grow in shade (fruit, herbs & veggies) Understanding duck mating & courtship 9 amazing duck facts that will blow your human mind