Foraged Gardening Recipes

Native passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata): How to grow, forage & eat

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“Maypop” is the common name for one of North America’s most delicious native fruits: passion fruit (scientific name: Passiflora incarnata). In this article, we’ll share everything you need to know to find, identify, harvest, grow, and eat this native tropical-flavored delicacy!


Table of contents: 

1. Video: Quick look at Passiflora incarnata plants, flowers, and fruit
2. A lifelong love of Passiflora incarnata, a North American native passion fruit
3. All about American passionfruit (history, ID, edible parts, medicinal uses)
4. How to grow your own native passion fruit from seeds or runners
5. How to eat Passiflora incarnata – with recipes!

1. Video: Take a quick look at P. incarnata plants, flowers, and fruit

In the video below, you’ll see native passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata) leaves, flowers, and fruit. Plus, you’ll also see Gulf fritillary butterfly larvae, since this native vine is their host plant and the two are often found together.

 

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2. A lifelong love of Passiflora incarnata, North America’s native passion fruit

I was fortunate to have parents who encouraged me to go outdoors when I was a kid. Summer days at my parents’ lake house were spent outdoors from morning to night, exploring, fishing, foraging, swimming, and playing with other kids.  

In late summer, we’d walk down to an overgrown field in search of ripe “maypops” (our name for the fruit of native purple passion fruit plants). The vines sprawled through the field, climbing over taller plants. 

Maypops were easy to spot due to their distinctive leaves, but more so due to their gorgeous, showy flowers. By late summer, fruit about the shape and size of a chicken egg dangled from the vines or ripened and fell to the ground. 

Maypop passion fruit flower / The flower of Passiflora incarnata flower

You won’t find more beautiful flowers than a maypop passionflower, although they’re not very fragrant flowers. Here you can also get insight into the plant’s etymology / genus name passiflora. They were originally called passionflower or passion vine because the floral parts were used to represent the Christian crucifixion story, aka the passion of Christ. The ten outer petals represent Jesus’s loyal disciples; the filaments the crown of thorns; the anthers the wounds; the style the nails.

My brother and I would eat our fill of the delicious, tangy tropical-flavored fruit. Afterwards, we’d occasionally engage in a maypop battle, throwing the unopened fruit at one another and laughing when one met its target, creating an explosion of pulp and seeds. 

Why is it called maypop?

Some say the name “maypop” derives from the plant popping up from the ground each May. Others say it’s due to the pop sound the fruit makes when you accidentally step on it (or hit your sibling with it).

Regardless, decades after my childhood introduction to this plant, The Tyrant and I have now forged an equally passionate relationship with passion fruit up in Greenville, South Carolina, three hours north and west of the family lake house. We grow maypops in our yard and forage them in the wild. Yes, The Tyrant will occasionally hit me with a maypop when I’ve agitated her, but the fruit can still be consumed after impact.

When it comes to delicious native fruits, we rank maypops as highly as pawpaws and American persimmons. And we’d like you to fall in love with this important plant, too!

3. All about American passion fruit 

“Isn’t passion fruit a tropical plant?” you might be wondering. Yes and no. 

There are lots of species of passion fruit, many of which only grow in tropical regions. Perhaps the best known species is Passiflora edulis, native to the tropics of South America. 

However, P. incarnata is the non-tropical species of passion fruit native to the eastern U.S. (primarily the Southeast) that produces delicious edible fruits that are roughly the same size as tropical Passiflora edulis.

Common name confusion

In addition to “maypop,” Passiflora incarnata has a couple other common names which you might have grown up using:

  • purple passionvine (due to the purple flowers), and
  • wild apricot / apricot vine (not because of the fruit’s flavor, but because of the fruit’s size and shape).

What species of passionflower are native to the United States? 

In addition to Passiflora incarnata, other U.S. native passiflora species include:

  1. Birdwing Passionflower (Passiflora tenuiloba) – Edible fruit; native to New Mexico and Texas.
  2. Corkystem Passionflower (Passiflora suberosa) – Edible fruit; native to Florida and southern Texas.
  3. Fetid passionflower (Passiflora foetida) – Edible fruit; native to the Southwest. 
  4. Yellow passionflower (Passiflora lutea) – Edible fruit, but very small with subpar flavor. Native to the east coast north to Pennsylvania and west to Kansas. We also see yellow passion fruit growing in our area, Upstate South Carolina.   

Native plants perform well in the geographic ranges they’ve adapted to over many millennia. Plus, they tend to be host plants for native pollinators and other species. Depending on where you live, consider planting passion vine species native to your area.

Yellow passionflower (P. lutea) is another variety native to our area. They're gorgeous plants (and host plants for multiple butterfly species) but their fruit is very small and not nearly as flavorful as P. incarnata.

Yellow passionflower (Passiflora lutea) is another variety native to our area. They’re gorgeous plants (and host plants for multiple butterfly species) but their fruit is very small and not nearly as flavorful as P. incarnata.

Where do maypops (Passiflora incarnata) grow – what’s their native range?  

Maypops primarily grow in the Southeastern United States. However, the plant’s native range extends all the way up to Ohio and Pennsylvania and all the way west to Oklahoma and Kansas.  

By Density - GIS-gestützte Erstellung anhand freier Geodaten (Staatsgrenzen: National Atlas of the United States, http://nationalatlas.gov/atlasftp.html, Verbreitungsangaben: http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=PAIN6) GIS-based compilation of free geodata (State Boundaries: National Atlas of the United States, http://nationalatlas.gov/atlasftp.html, Distribution information: http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=PAIN6), Public Domain, Link

Map showing the states in which native maypops/passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata) can be found growing in the wild. Image credit: Density. USDA distribution information, Public Domain.

A sacred plant to America’s indigenous populations

As you might imagine, Native Americans swooned for passion fruit. They also used various parts of the plant medicinally (more on that below). 

To the west of us in Georgia and Tennessee is the Ocoee River, a rather unusual sounding name. Its etymology?

The Cherokee word for passion fruit is “u-wa-ga,” and the the area around the Ocoee River was called “u-wa-go-hi,” which translated to “place where the passion fruits grow.” To English speaking ears, this sounded like “o-co-ee,” hence the river’s modern anglicized name.     

Maypop fruits at various stages of ripeness. The more green fruit in this image are equally tangy and sweet (our favorite). The older more wrinkly and yellow-skinned maypops are more sweet than tangy. Ripe maypops, passion fruit, passiflora incarnata

Uwaga! Passiflora incarnata maypop fruit at various stages of ripeness. The more green-colored fruit in this image are equally tangy and sweet (our favorite stage of ripeness). The older more wrinkly and yellow-skinned maypops are more sweet than tangy.

How did Native American societies use Passiflora incarnata? A USDA NRCS plant guide notes the following: 

“The Houma, Cherokee and other Native American tribes used purple passionflower for food, drink, and medicinal purposes. Captain Smith, in 1612, reported that Native Americans in Virginia planted the vines for the fruits. The fruits were eaten either raw or boiled to make syrup. A beverage was made from the fruits by crushing and straining the juice. Sometimes the juice was thickened by mixing it with flour or cornmeal. The young shoots and leaves were eaten, cooked with other greens. The roots were used in an infusion to treat boils, and to “draw out inflammation” of wounds from briers or locusts. Babies were given a tea made from the roots to aid in weaning. The roots were beaten with warm water and used as ear drops to treat earaches. Root infusions were used to treat liver problems. Soaking the crushed roots in drinking water made a “blood tonic.” The plant was also used as a sedative to treat nervous conditions and hysteria.” 

How to find and ID maypop passion fruit 

If you live in the states shown in the map above, then you have a good shot at finding native passion fruits (from purple passionflower plants) growing in the wild. 

The plants typically grow in open, full-sun areas although you can also find them on forest edges growing in part shade. The edges of fields, roadways, and open stream banks are ideal places to find passion fruit vines growing in the summer through early fall. (The plants die back to the ground at first frost.)

Unlike many other early succession/pioneer plants, passion fruit is a perennial that grows back from overwintering roots each year. 

Here’s how to identify Passiflora incarnata plants and fruit:   

  1. Growing season – Shoots emerge in late spring. Fruit ripens summer-early fall. Plants die back to the ground at first frost. 
  2. Growth habit – Vines extend up to 20′, either crawling on the ground or climbing vertically atop taller plants. Perennial, so grow in same spot each year, vigorously sending out underground runners.
  3. Leaves – Three-lobed, lightly serrated leaves are about the size of a human hand. Lobes terminate in points. 
  4. Flowers – Ornate and showy purple and white-yellow flowers about 2-3″ in diameter when open. While in bloom, the flowers are perhaps the easiest way to ID the plant since they’re so distinctive and recognizable. 
  5. Fruit – Green fruits turns to dull green or slightly yellow and crinkly when ripe. Egg-shaped fruit is typical, but we’ve seen vines with smaller, round fruit as well.

To help you with plant ID, here’s a closer look at a maypop leaf, which is visible early in the year before maypop flowers and fruit appear:

Maypop passion fruit leaf (Passiflora incarnata).

Maypop passion fruit leaf (Passiflora incarnata). Related interesting factoid: passionflower plants have extrafloral nectaries at the base of their leaves which serve to attract ants. These ants then help fend off caterpillars that would otherwise munch on the plant’s leaves.

What parts of a maypop plant are edible? 

Please note that you should NEVER eat any wild plant that you’re not 100% sure you’ve correctly ID’d and know is edible. You should also avoid eating wild plants in areas where pesticides (including herbicides) are sprayed.     

Although the ripe fruit is by far the most delicious part of a maypop plant, all other parts of the plant are technically edible too: roots, leaves, flowers, and the tendrils which grow from the leaf axils helping the plant grip and climb. (The tendrils make a beautiful garnish, similar to pea tendrils.) 

Since passionflower leaves are an important host plant to Gulf fritillary and zebra longwing butterfly larvae/caterpillars and we’d rather they enjoy eating the leaves than us, we don’t tend to utilize them. 

This orange and black spiky caterpillar might look terrifying, but it's the harmless (to humans) larva of a Gulf fritillary butterfly. Native passion flower plants are their larval host plants.

This orange and black spiky caterpillar might look terrifying, but it’s the harmless (to humans) larva of a Gulf fritillary butterfly. Native passion flower plants are their larval host plants.

How can you tell if maypop fruit is ripe?

From late summer through first frost is the ideal time to find ripe maypops. When they’re ripe, the fruit feels much heavier than non-ripe fruits on the vine and the skin turns a light green/yellow color.

When maypops are REALLY ripe, they often fall off of the vines and can be found on the ground beneath the vines. At this point, they’re usually very sweet with very little tanginess left.    

Here’s our 5-point guide to help you determine if Passiflora incarnata fruit is ripe: 

  1. Did the whole undamaged fruit fall off the plant on its own? It’s ripe. (Even if the skin is still mostly green.) 
  2. Is the fruit skin slightly yellow and slightly crinkly/soft to the touch (even if fruit is still attached)? Ripe.
  3. Is the fruit still attached to the passion flower vines, but it feels light when you hold it in your hand relative to more mature, heavier fruit on the plant? Unripe. 
  4. When you pop open the skin, does it smell like delicious tropical candy inside with slightly yellow/off-white pulp around the seeds? Ripe.
  5. When you pop open the skin, does it NOT have much smell and are the seeds/pulp more white in color? Unripe (it will taste bland or sour depending on how undeveloped it is).
Oops! Unripe maypop that will be very sour/tangy, but not sweet or good tasting. Notice that the pulp around the seeds is still white. The pulp should be more yellow when ripe. Also, the skin of a maypop will be slightly yellow and have a bit of crinkle to it when the fruit is at peak ripeness.

Nooo! Close but still unripe maypop that will be very sour/tangy, but not sweet or good tasting. Notice that the pulp around the seeds is still white. The pulp should be more yellow when ripe. Also, the skin of a maypop will be slightly yellow and have a bit of crinkle to it when the fruit is at peak ripeness.

Are maypops nutritious or medicinal? 

Even though we’ve never seen a nutritional analysis on Passiflora incarnata fruit, it’s likely a good source of vitamin C and A, like its tropical passionfruit cousin, Passiflora edulis.   

As mentioned previously, various parts of the purple passionflower plant were used medicinally by Native Americans. There is interesting recent research showing that compounds in the Passiflora incarnata plants serve as a sleep inducer (also aiding in reduced wakefulness) as well as providing better general sleep quality

The plant’s sleep-conferring benefits may owe to the fact that Passiflora plants contains more gamma-amino butyric acid (GABA) than 20 other known GABA-rich plants. (Read more about GABA.) 

Perhaps these botanical compounds are also responsible for another interesting phenomenon we’ve observed: bumble bees and carpenter bees seemingly becoming intoxicated from the passionflower nectar while foraging — sometimes to the point they fall to the ground and die. Similarly, a friend of ours on Instagram told us she consumed a homemade, highly concentrated tea with P. incarnata leaves and spent the remainder of the afternoon in a peaceful, near-psychedelic stupor in her hammock.

I’ve consumed comparatively moderate amounts of maypop leaves and flowers and felt zero physiological effects. As with any medicine, dosage and individual variability matter. If you plan on using this plant medicinally, tread lightly until you get a sense of how if effects you.

4. How to grow maypop passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata) from runners or seeds

Does all this talk of passion fruit have you itching to grow these wonderful plants in your garden? We hope so! 

Here are five basic maypop facts you should know before growing maypops:

1. Vigorous climbers

Maypops are vigorous growers and climbers. Each vine can grow 20′ long in a season under optimal conditions. Allowing the plant to climb on a fence or trellis is ideal. 

2. Perennial

Maypops are perennial plants. They also send out runners far from their original location. You’ll have to pull these runners if they come up in spots you don’t want them. (Or dig them up and transplant them to where you do.) 

3. Sun-loving

Maypops grow best and produce the most fruit in full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight per day). However, we’ve also grown them in partial shade and had them produce fruit as well, albeit with lower yields.

4. Drought-tolerant

As a native plant, maypops can also tolerate droughts and adverse weather conditions better than many other common garden plants. However, you’ll get the most fruit production if you keep them well-watered and grow them in rich soil.

5. Self-fertile

Unlike some other passionflower species, you can plant just one Passiflora incarnata plant and get fruit since they are self-fertile. However, each maypop flower needs cross-pollination to set fruit and not all flowers will fruit. That’s because they are andromonoecious, with each plant producing flowers that are either: a) perfect/hermaphroditic, or b) functionally male. 

A recently set passionfruit (P. incarnata) with the flower beginning to desiccate.

A recently set passion fruit (P. incarnata) with the flower beginning to desiccate.

How to get your first maypop plants

You can grow new plants by either: 1) digging up rooted runners aka root suckers, or 2) via seed.

Option 1: Growing passion fruit via runners 

If you know where a wild passionflower plant is growing in your area, dig up newly emerged shoots/runners starting about 6″ below the soil surface to ensure there are roots on the plant. (Maypops have a stoloniferous rhizome root system which is why they sucker and form dense patches in the same spot.) Bury the runners you dig up in damp well-drained soil (potting soil or seed starting mix) in suitably sized containers, with shoot and/or leaves above soil surface. 

Place the container in a shady spot for 1-2 weeks, keeping the soil damp, but not sopping wet (you want to stimulate root growth, not rot the roots). Once the plant begins to vigorously put on new growth, you can transplant it into its final location in your garden.  

Option 2: Growing passion fruit from seed 

Know where a wild maypop plant is growing? Great!

Collect seeds from overripe fruit in the late summer or fall. Then immediately sow them in the ground about 1/2 – 1″ deep wherever you want them to come up the following spring. (Or put them in small containers with potting soil and leave them outdoors to overwinter and sprout the next spring.) 

Just to be crystal clear here: we recommend sowing your maypop seeds as soon as you get them; don’t wait until the next spring. And you don’t have to worry about cleaning the pulp off the seed before planting – that will just add a little extra nutrition for the sprouting seed.   

You can also buy maypop seeds online, but we couldn’t find any seed providers with good customer reviews. (This could possibly owe to the fact that passion fruit seeds seem to need to be planted immediately or they lose viability.) 

Maypops can tolerate a wide range of soils, from clay to sand to loam. However, they prefer rich well-draining soil, and don’t like being in wet, boggy soil. For the first year, until the plant is established, the plant will benefit from getting a bit of irrigation if you’re in a drought period. 

We also use wood chip mulch around our maypop plants to reduce competition from weeds and help maintain optimal soil conditions. 

Maypop passion fruit pests and diseases 

Passiflora incarnata plants are quite disease, pest, and drought-resistant. However, here are few things to be on the lookout for:

Root knot nematode – The plants can suffer from root knot nematodes (which damage the root system). These microscopic herbivorous nematodes can be treated by applying predatory nematodes as a root drench. (You can buy predatory nematodes, which are also great at controlling other pests such as Japanese beetles and fungus gnats on indoor seedlings.)

Butterly larvae – Depending on where you live, one or multiple butterfly larvae may feed on P. incarnata leaves. Species include:

  • variegated fritillaries,
  • Gulf fritillaries,
  • zebra longwing,
  • crimson-patch longwing,
  • red-banded hairstreak, and
  • Julia heliconian.

Here in South Carolina, the larvae of Gulf fritillaries are by far the most common and most damaging to our passionflower plants.

Nearly ripe maypops on a trellis in our back yard. Notice the leaf damage caused by Gulf fritillary butterfly caterpillars.

Nearly ripe maypops on a trellis in our back yard. Notice the leaf damage caused by Gulf fritillary caterpillars (the adult butterflies look similar to Monarchs).

We’d encourage you to share your plants with these beautiful pollinators (even if you find the caterpillars unsightly), rather than using pesticides. Another option: grow two patches of passionflower vines – one for maximum fruit production, the other for maximum butterfly production. Transfer any caterpillars you find on your fruit crop to your pollinator crop.

Finally, once maypop fruit starts to ripen and/or fall to the ground, you may have everything from small mammals (raccoons, possums, skunks) to wild turkeys visiting to eat the fruit.

5. How to eat Passiflora incarnata, native passion fruit

How do you eat maypop/passion fruit? 

The simplest way to eat native passion fruit is peeling off the outer skin and plopping the inner seeds and pulp right in your mouth. No preparation needed.

A nice pile of ripe maypops. Inside each green-skinned fruit is a cluster of seeds surrounded by thick deliciously flavored fruit pulp. The skin of the fruit should be removed before eating the inside. Passiflora incarnata, native passion fruit

A nice pile of ripe maypops. Inside each green-skinned fruit is a cluster of seeds surrounded by thick deliciously flavored fruit pulp that turns slightly yellow when ripe. The skin of the fruit should be removed before eating the inside.

If you go this route, we don’t recommend chewing them, since the seeds are hard. You basically just suck on them and swallow the seeds whole once the flavor is extracted from the pulp surrounding the seeds. Once done, you can also spit out the seeds if you’re averse to ingesting them. 

If you gather a bunch of maypops, you can also make a whole range of delicious recipes, ranging from jellies to simple syrups. Since pawpaws and passion fruit can be found at the same time of year, try our passion fruit pawpaw sorbet recipe (which might just be the best thing we’ve ever tasted). 

Or if you love homemade probiotics like we do, you can turn your maypops into a delicious probiotic beverage, sparkling passion fruit-Meyer lemon cordial. If you don’t have Meyer lemons handy, you can also substitute citric acid using the simple recipe below. 

One of the very best (and easiest) recipes for maypop passion fruits: sparkling maypop cordial. Passiflora incarnata recipe

One of the very best (and easiest) recipes for maypop passion fruits: sparkling maypop cordial.

maypop recipe, passion fruit recipe, passiflora incarnata recipe, passion fruit cordial, passion fruit fermentation
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Maypop passion fruit cordial

Course: Drinks, Health Drink / Syrup
Keyword: fermentation, passiflora, passiflora incarnata recipe, passion fruit, probiotic, sparkling cordial
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Fermentation time: 7 days
Servings: 10
Author: Aaron von Frank

A delicious and simple to make tropical-flavored probiotic drink made using native passion fruit (Passiflora incarnata). The bubbles in this recipe are produced via a quick fermentation process that harnesses the power of wild yeasts.  

Ingredients

  • 1 cup passion fruit pulp (seeds and all)
  • 3/4 cup organic cane sugar or honey
  • 3 cups water
  • 1 tsp citric acid or 1 tablespoon lemon juice

Instructions

  1. Add all ingredients to large canning jar and stir vigorously until sugar is dissolved. 

  2. Place a paper towel or linen cloth over mouth of jar and secure with a rubber band. Keep in cool indoor location (NOT a refrigerator) out of the sun. 

  3. Stir mixture vigorously with a clean spoon for 30 seconds at least twice per day (once in the morning and once in the evening). Taste a small amount each time after stirring to track flavor development. Within 3-4 days, you'll notice bubbles developing and a bit of foam on top as native yeasts begin to colonize the mixture, kickstarting the fermentation process.     

  4. After 7-10 days, your cordial should be ready. Strain, then bottle and store in fridge for up to 3-6 months. Do NOT store at room temperature or bottles could explode.

    Ideal served in small cordial glasses as an apertif or digestif.   

Now you know how to find, ID, grow, and eat Passiflora incarnata, aka maypop, a delicious passion fruit native to the United States. Your tastebuds will thank you for years to come, as will native pollinators!  

KIGI,

Want to see a quick visual summary of this article? Check out our Google Web Story about native passionfruit

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25 Comments

  • Reply
    Lisa Martin
    May 27, 2025 at 5:35 pm

    Can I leave a question here? Last summer I discovered a passion flower vine in my garden. I also noticed an upright plant (weed?) growing nearby. It had the same shape leaves but the flowers were nothing like a passion flower. I was afraid to pull it because the leaves looked just like the passion flower. Thoughts?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 28, 2025 at 11:45 am

      Hmm, an upright plant with similar leaves to passionflower is sassafras trees, but young ones wouldn’t produce flowers. The other one I can think of is Canadian moonseed, but that wouldn’t have an upright growth habit since it’s more of a vining plant. Do you have any pictures? If so, please feel free to send to [email protected].

  • Reply
    Emily
    September 28, 2024 at 8:24 pm

    Do you know if deer tend to favor this plant? I’m really eager to grow it but wonder if the always ravenous deer will also be interested. Thanks!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 2, 2024 at 3:07 pm

      Unfortunately, deer do like to eat native passion fruit leaves.

  • Reply
    Belling the Cat
    July 18, 2023 at 1:01 pm

    Hiya, just wanted to mention that I have started passionflower (incarnata) from seed, but it was not easy. Although I don’t recall for sure, I probably got the seeds from Strictly Medicinal. Either soaking or nicking (or both) will increase germination rate. I had no luck at first (when not soaking or nicking) but tried that, waiting impatiently. After I gave up, some late volunteers appeared. A couple of smallish vines last year with no flowers have multiplied to many (many), and a few small fruits as of the last couple of weeks.
    Thanks for the info on how long to wait and suggestions on the sparkly beverage!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 18, 2023 at 2:15 pm

      Thanks for sharing your notes about starting Passiflora incarnata from seed! Also, it sounds like year 1 is all about getting the plants established and year 2 is when to potentially expect first flowers and fruit. Best of luck and we hope you enjoy sparkling passion fruit cordial when the time comes!

  • Reply
    Sherese
    April 23, 2023 at 10:33 pm

    I am so excited to find you! I am in the Pee Dee area of South Carolina. I recently found several “May Pop” vines growing in an area near my garden. The garden is already struggling in the dry heat of spring. The May Pops are thriving all on their own! I found them purely by accident! It is as if there was previously a May Pop garden there! I walked out today to take some pictures of the plants I knew were there and found several more I had not even seen the last time I was in that garden! I grew up on this property but moved away for nearly 20 years. I moved back just over a year ago. One of the first things I set out to do was plant a garden. I have my hobby nursery license and sell a few plants online. I have spent the last year learning and observing the native plants on my property. I have identified several native plants that I would like to focus on propagating and possibly adding to my inventory. I learned so much about the May Pop from this article! I just subscribed and looking forward to learning more about your farm. Thank you so very much for sharing!

    Sherese

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 24, 2023 at 11:18 am

      Thanks for your kind note, Sherese! Maypop/native passionfruit is such a great and under-appreciated plant. Now that yours is established in your garden, expect it to start vigorously running beyond its original footprint. That vigor isn’t something we consider to be a detriment though. In our experience, there’s only two things that can reduce maypop fruit production or seriously harm the plants: 1) root knot nematode (which can be controlled with predatory nematodes) and 2) the larvae/caterpillars of Gulf fritillary butterflies (which don’t usually do too much damage – see: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/a-message-from-fred-gulf-fritillary-butterfly/). One thing you can do for Gulf fritillary control is have two patches of maypops: one is your production patch and another is your sacrificial patch. Just transfer Gulf fritillary caterpillars from your production to your sacrificial patch as you find them.

      I’m not sure if you’ve yet had the chance to eat a ripe maypop, but you’re in for a treat if not. Just make sure you eat them perfectly ripe or a little beyond. Eat them too early and they’re sour and not very flavorful. Perfectly ripe and they’re absolutely delicious.

      Lastly, good on you for focusing on some of the native plants in our area! You might want to join and participate in the SC Native Plant Society: https://scnps.org/.

      • Reply
        Sherese
        May 4, 2023 at 11:09 pm

        Thanks for taking the time to reply and providing such great information.

    • Reply
      Norma Ashburn
      July 25, 2023 at 11:34 pm

      Sherrie,
      Where in the Pee Dee area do you live? I would love to have one of your Maypops plants. Would you consider selling one? I live in Charleston but am originally from Horry County!

  • Reply
    Lois Luckovich
    April 8, 2023 at 10:08 am

    Thanks very much for the info and recipe. I don’t know if maypops will grow where I am on the West Coast of Canada but I’ll get some seeds and give them a try!

    • Reply
      Susan von Frank
      April 8, 2023 at 11:11 pm

      You’re welcome! Please check back in to let us know if and how Passiflora incarnata grows for you there!

  • Reply
    Tammy Pelotto
    September 6, 2022 at 6:58 pm

    So glad I found this website! I do have one question, if you don’t mind. Are maypops safe for chickens? We would like to plant some around the coop so it will help shade the coop during Alabama’s hot summers, but not sure it is safe for chickens. Any advice? Thanks so much!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 7, 2022 at 12:38 pm

      Hi and thanks, Tammy! We raise ducks and native passionfruit/maypops in the same area. Our ducks don’t touch the leaves or the fruit.

      As for whether chickens can safely eat maypops, I reached out to a chicken-raising friend who also grows maypops and she said: “Chickens will eat maypop fruit, but they don’t seem interested in the vines. However, the less greenery they have in a run, the more experimental they’ll get.” (Read: If they’re bored or hungry for greens, they’ll eat things they might not normally eat, like maypop vines and leaves.)

      A couple of other thoughts: since chickens tend to scratch up the ground and destroy tender young plants, it actually might be the maypop plants you’d need to worry about protecting from the chickens more so than protecting the chickens from the maypops. Perhaps you could put up some temporary caging/fencing around the base of the maypops plants where the vines emerge from the soil until you get a better sense of how your chickens and maypops get along. Otherwise, the chickens might not give the maypops a chance to get established.

      Hope this helps and good luck growing native passionfruit!

  • Reply
    Rhonda Huggins
    September 3, 2021 at 4:37 pm

    We just discovered these growing over our backyard fence!! The vine is amongst other uncultivated ‘squash’ vines. Neither of us had any idea what it was other than I thought it looked like a passion flower…growing wild in Arkansas?? With a little investigation we found our plant. Since it has been growing successfully without our intervention, we see no reason to change…but we would like an opportunity to try the fruit when ripe. How can we protect the fruit without pesticides. Have heard that you can loosely wrap melons…but would that work for a maypop?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 4, 2021 at 1:10 pm

      Hi Rhonda! Congrats for finding native passionfruit in your backyard. As for protecting the fruit: there’s nothing you need to do other than let the fruit ripen. The only “pests” that could potentially damage the ripening fruit are Gulf fritillary butterfly larvae/caterpillars since that’s their only host plant. The caterpillars predominantly eat the leaves, but they will occasionally eating the skin of the fruit – especially when they run out of leaves. Some of your fruit should be at least starting to ripen or will be ripe soon. Enjoy!

  • Reply
    Betty Sligh
    July 18, 2021 at 3:25 pm

    Where can I purchase some fruit?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 19, 2021 at 8:54 am

      This isn’t a fruit we’ve ever seen at a grocery store or farmer’s market. Good news: if you live in the southeast, there’s likely passion fruit (specifically Passiflora incarnata) growing near you right now that is either ripe or very close to being ripe. You just need to learn how to identify it. The large, ornate purple flowers and relatively large fruit are pretty unique and hard to mistake. It tends to grow in “edge” type ecosystems – weedy areas full of pioneer plants in border areas between forests and open fields.

  • Reply
    Kelly
    September 27, 2020 at 2:13 pm

    I have nibbled on MayPops since being a kid. I have several fences that are covered in a thick lush wall of their dark green vines and tempting fruits. Lately, I have read lots of people saying the plants are toxic. Is their truth to this?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 27, 2020 at 10:21 pm

      Hi Kelly! Passiflora incarnata, the native passionfruit species endemic to the eastern United States, is NOT poisonous/toxic. That includes all parts of the plant: the fruit, leaves, and flowers. It’s possible people are confusing this species with another plant, as sometimes happens. So just be certain that your vining plants are indeed Passiflora incarnata. For the record, I’ve been foraging and eating native passionfruit since I was a young child, and I’m still very much alive as of the writing of this comment. 🙂

  • Reply
    Kristin West
    September 26, 2020 at 10:31 pm

    Do you have a recipe for Passionflower jam/jelly? I have ½ acre that I bought 2 years ago. I ripped out every plant growing, except for one American Hazelnut, and replanted the entire property with native species. I have 2 Passiflora incarnata and would love some recipes. I’m planning on harvesting all of my edible berries soon and making some organic native plant jams/jellies. I have Black Chokeberry, Red Chokeberry, Blackhaw Viburnum, Nannyberry, River Grape, Spicebush, and Blueberries as well.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 27, 2020 at 1:44 pm

      Wow, wish you were our neighbor! 🙂 We don’t currently have a passionfruit jelly recipe, but we (and family) have made it before. The main thing, which is pretty obvious, is you’ll want to cook the pulp then strain the seeds. Once you have the passionfruit juice separated just weigh/measure it and follow pretty much any good jelly recipe from there. And if you come up with some good chokeberry/black aronia recipes, please let us know!

  • Reply
    David Phillips
    July 28, 2020 at 8:22 pm

    arches. I have transplanted ten plants to my back property line that are growing very fast. I dig a 6 inch ball to get enough root to start. This will take several years to get what I want. I am 82 years old, but very optimistic.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 30, 2020 at 1:10 pm

      Thanks for sharing your passion fruit info, David! Question: are you saying you’ve gotten passion vine cuttings to root? We’ve never tried that so would be curious to know if they’re able to root that way.

  • Reply
    David Phillips
    July 28, 2020 at 8:15 pm

    I have many of these plants in my front yard. They have spread so much that I decided to let them take over . I bought 6 metal arch frames to train the plants and will need more. I dig the plants that go too far into my yard and plant them in other places (and near the legs of the 6 supports). I will plant the seed at the legs of the frames until they cover evenly.. I am planting cuttings using root stimulation where I need more coverage. Some vines have reached the top of the 7 foot arches in 2 weeks. I will continue to transplant at the legs of the

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Foraged

Spruce tips and immature cones: how to ID, harvest, and eat

Spruce tips and immature cones: how to ID, harvest, and eat thumbnail

In this article, you’ll find out how to identify, harvest, and eat the tender young growth tips and immature cones of spruce trees during spring.  


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4 Comments

  • Reply
    Edith
    September 4, 2024 at 3:37 pm

    “Thus, they’re best cooked or fermented with the aim of either tenderizing them to be eaten whole”

    I am so curious about fermenting cones! Could you say more about this or recommend resources?

    • Reply
      Susan von Frank
      September 5, 2024 at 11:07 pm

      We’ve made mugolio (fermented cone syrup). Alan Bergo’s mugolio recipe is linked in the article. We’ve also made fermented soda with immature cones. Both recipes are great and easy to make, although they require a bit of patience. There are lots of recipes online for cone soda. Those are a great place to start!

  • Reply
    Cara
    April 15, 2024 at 6:45 pm

    I’ve had a difficult time finding info the Norway Spruce cones. Recently I harvest a bunch of the very small, immature, red female cones. Are these any good when they are very, very small? Or should I wait for them to get bigger?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 16, 2024 at 1:26 pm

      Hi Cara! Yes, the red immature spruce cones are wonderful. They’re quite mild at that stage in development; almost like a berry in consistency more so than a conifer cone. My son and I were nibbling on some last week!

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Gardening

Stop and eat the roses? How to select & use edible roses in your garden.

Stop and eat the roses? How to select & use edible roses in your garden. thumbnail

Edible roses are a delicious, nutritious, and beautiful addition to your edible landscape. In this article you’ll discover how to use the edible parts of a rose plant, which rose varieties are best for edibility, and how to grow roses organically!


Table of contents:

Read the whole article or jump right to the section you’re interested in:

I. Our introduction to edible roses
II. Edible parts of a rose plant and how to use them
III. Selecting the best edible rose varieties
IV. How to grow edible rose plants organically
V. Frequently asked questions about edible roses

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27 Comments

  • Reply
    Lisa
    November 10, 2023 at 9:35 pm

    Hi there,
    I’m interested in planting the roses as a hedge in my backyard. I’d like to plant a mix of varieties so I would have some that are the best for each edible part. My question is, which varieties would be best to form a nice privacy hedge? Thanks so much!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      November 15, 2023 at 6:55 pm

      Hi! For a hedge of roses, I’d go with rose varieties that have climbing and/or rambling growth habits. Five good contenders mentioned in this article are:
      -David Austin’s ‘Generous Gardener’ (climber)
      -Rosa filipes ‘Rambling Rector’ (climber/rambler)
      -‘Graham Thomas’ (climber)
      -‘Teasing Georgia’ (climber)
      -‘Crown Princess Margareta’

      Ideally you can provide some sort of structure underneath the plants to provide support and shape. Hope this helps!

      • Reply
        Lisa
        November 17, 2023 at 7:26 pm

        Wonderful, thanks so much for the info.

  • Reply
    A. Wikman
    February 20, 2023 at 9:25 am

    Thank you for this useful blog! In your view is the Generous Gardener also good in terms of buds/flower use? I can only find space for one climber and I’d like to harvest both petals and hips if possible.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 20, 2023 at 2:10 pm

      Thank you! Yes, David Austin’s ‘Generous Gardener’ rose is an excellent variety for both edible flowers and hips. Rose flower fragrance translates into flavor, and Generous Gardener’s flowers are described as “a delicious fragrance with aspects of Old Rose, musk and myrrh.” Sounds like this would be a great choice for your single climbing rose!

  • Reply
    Ken Murano
    March 6, 2021 at 11:14 am

    Dear Tyrant and the Rose expert.
    The whole article about which roses and rose hips were the best, biggest and sweetest was great except for one critical price of missing information…Which Rose hips are the biggest and sweetest/ flavorful rose hips.
    As I read the wonderful descriptions of lots of roses, some without even a mention of anything regarding large, sweet rose hips, I kept reading, hoping that part would be discussed, sooner or later, but by the time I arrived at the end of the article….there was still really nothing specifically discussing which roses produced the largest, sweetest flavorful rose hips.
    I was also wondering why mention David Austin roses specifically grown for delicious rose hips ( again no mention of specific rose ) then reading comments stating David Austin strongly recommends against eating their roses because they grow them in a toxic chemical environment.
    So at the beginning of your article you said you’ll tell us which roses produced the most delicious rose hips, but never did… only leaving a reader of the entire presentation wondering, why did I just spend all this time reading this article supposedly going to tell me which roses produce the biggest, most delicious rose hips, and be right back to square one, trying to find which roses produce the largest, sweetest flavorful rose hips.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 6, 2021 at 1:13 pm

      Of all the roses we’ve grown or tasted hips from, we’d recommend Rosa rugosa for best rose hips. As the article also details, all parts of the rose plant have edible uses so hips are just one edible consideration. R. rugosa produces really fragrant tasty flower/buds as well. There may be another type of rose that produces better hips, but we don’t know what it is if so. Hope this helps you narrow down your list of options if it’s rose hips you’re after.

  • Reply
    JoRene Byers
    March 3, 2021 at 4:20 pm

    ORGANIC OWN-ROOT ROSES for alllll of you!! Stargazer Perennial Farm and Nursery!!! I’ve ordered here, my roses have been Wonderful! Pre-Order For Spring 2021 http://www.stargazerperennialscatalog.com
    Organically grown, pesticide-free roses grown and shipped in 4 inch containers or 5 inch deep root pots are a value for the rose lover. Our roses are all grown on their own root for increased hardiness, superior bloom production and increased vigor. Varieties available in this growing program include floribunda roses, hybrid tea roses, ground cover roses, miniature roses, grandiflora roses, hardy Canadian roses and shrub roses. These healthy roses are ready to plant in the garden during the growing season, or can be planted in a larger container to grow on for a season.
    Free Shipping on all container grown roses.
    I am thrilled I happened across your article ~ I’m hoping you can feature these 2 wonderful companies in one of your future articles! Especially with the concern for bees and pollinators, and that neonicotinoids can last for 5 years or longer. Stargazer (in Oregon) is a TREASURE for all of us and the bees too! 🙂
    I have one more! MOUNTAIN VALLEY GROWERS if you’re into ORGANIC herbs, vegetables and perennials and Miniature ORGANIC ROSES (adorable rose buds for teas): https://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/lsearch/?zoom_query=roses They’re in California – the plants I ordered were beautiful!
    Ohhh, I dearly hope you will write about these two opportunities! I was over-the-moon happy when I found I could have pesticide-free beautiful roses and plants! Thank you for all the wonderful information you share! Sending you and your readers my very best!

  • Reply
    Lindsay Grega
    January 3, 2021 at 11:51 pm

    Hi- after reading this post I contacted David Austin roses to suggest some edible varieties and was sent this response:

    Thank you for your email.

    We do not recommend our roses for consumption of any kind. They are treated in our growing fields with pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizer. Because they are not grown organically, we cannot recommend them for food or drinks.

    If you have any further questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

    Best regards,

    Shellie Reese
    David Austin Roses
    15059 State Hwy 64 W.
    Tyler, TX 75704
    1-800-328-8893 Toll Free
    903-526-1800 P
    903-526-1900 F

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      January 5, 2021 at 12:12 pm

      Ugh, good (or bad?) to know, thanks Lindsay. Something to consider: if alternative organically grown edible rose cultivars are hard to come by, you can always grow David Austin varieties for a couple of years prior to using them for consumption. That time window should be more than adequate in letting any pesticide residues degrade, even systemics.

    • Reply
      Nancy Parris
      June 6, 2021 at 9:28 am

      Thank you for this. I was ready to purchase the David Austin rose d/t this article. It mentions them frequently. Your information is valuable.

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        June 6, 2021 at 10:41 am

        Happy to hear this rose information was helpful, thanks Lindsay!

  • Reply
    Erica
    October 1, 2020 at 5:50 pm

    Hello,

    I am in Phoenix AZ, zone 9. Roses do pretty well here in containers and raised beds, but they’re always grafted to root stock that can tolerate our less-than-1%-organic-matter soil. I actually contacted David Austin’s for a recommendation on roses for my climate and received a stern ‘do not eat our roses’ reply. 🙁

    So….can you suggest a variety with edible characteristics that would be suited for zone 9 arid climate?

  • Reply
    Hadassah Rosida Widyastuti
    August 22, 2020 at 9:14 am

    Hi I am Rose from Indonesia, thank you for writing such interesting article. I love roses, and I am planning to plant ones, especially the edible ones. But I am just wondering what type of roses are edible? And does every rose has their buds? I am just totally in the dark about it.
    Since I am living in tropical area, could you please suggest me the best type of edible roses that are adjustable with my area.
    Looking forward to hearing from you. Thank you

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 22, 2020 at 3:34 pm

      Hi Hadassah! Technically the petals and hips on all roses are edible. Some are just better than others, as we detail in this article. Indonesia being a tropical climate, I’d hate to even begin to guess which rose varieties/cultivars might grow best for you there. You’ll probably be better off going to a local nursery and inquiring about varieties bred for your specific climate with edibility in mind. For the flowers/petals, the best way to determine quality of edibility is with your nose. Generally, the better they smell, the better they’ll taste in teas and other recipes. However, that won’t tell you much about the quality of the hips/fruit. Hope this information helps and best of luck finding edible roses that grow in your area!

  • Reply
    Hadassah Rosida Widyastuti
    August 22, 2020 at 9:14 am

    Hi I am Rose from Indonesia, thank you for writing such interesting article. I love roses, and I am planning to plant ones, especially the edible ones. But I am just wondering what type of roses are edible? And does every rose has their buds? I am just totally in the dark about it.
    Since I am living in tropical area, could you please suggest me the best type of edible roses that are adjustable with my area.
    Looking forward to hearing from you. Thank you

  • Reply
    Shaun Daniel
    July 2, 2020 at 1:39 pm

    What are your thoughts on the persistence of synthetic chemical insecticides and fungicides on nursery-bought roses? I contacted David Austin Roses about when their Generous Gardener would be available again and received this note as part of their reply:

    “Just to make sure, though, I do want to let you know that they are not recommended for consumption of any kind as they are not organic. Our roses are treated with insecticides and fungicides during the growing process.”

    As far as I can tell, there are virtually no organic rose suppliers, so that doesn’t leave many other options anyway. But since it would take at least a year or more for a rose like Generous Gardener to establish, does it seem reasonable to assume that few if any insecticides and fungicides would remain on the new growth – especially if the plant were washed back to bare root before planting?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      July 6, 2020 at 8:03 am

      Hi Shaun! Great question. Yes, pesticide residue would long since have washed off the plants after one year in an outdoor environment. The persistence of systemic pesticides (that actually enter the plant’s cells) depends on the exact pesticide. Research I’ve read says they persist for about 90 days.

      • Reply
        Shaun Daniel
        July 6, 2020 at 11:19 am

        Makes sense. There would be no need to reapply such chemicals if they stuck around indefinitely (persistence of byproducts in soil may be another story, but at least we can start with bareroot from vendors). Looking forward to growing some beautiful climbing roses next year! Thanks for your thoughts, Aaron, and for putting together this great guide.

        • Aaron von Frank
          July 7, 2020 at 11:34 am

          You’re very welcome, Shaun! Best of luck with your roses.

  • Reply
    Kathryn Willoughby
    November 30, 2019 at 10:47 am

    I would like to plant rosa rugosa in the same bed with blueberries. Is this a practical combination?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      November 30, 2019 at 2:20 pm

      Yes, we have a Rosa rugosa in a bed with blueberries and this works perfectly well. The only warning is making sure you leave enough space between your rugosa and your blueberries because the rugosas are quite thorny – you don’t want to make blueberry picking a painful experience!

  • Reply
    Sherry
    August 27, 2018 at 11:24 pm

    I have several rose bushes that I planted in my yard (I don’t remember the names), so I was just wondering if all roses are safe to consume?

    • Reply
      susan von frank
      August 29, 2018 at 1:30 pm

      Hi Sherry! This is Susan @ Tyrant Farms. Yes, all rose petals are edible and each offers a slightly unique flavor. Rose hips are edible too, but some are too small to make the effort worthwhile, while others just don’t taste that great. The variety we like best for rose hips is Rosa Rugosa, as mentioned in the above article. (The article also includes a link where you can buy them on Amazon.)

  • Reply
    Britt
    March 28, 2018 at 4:48 pm

    How much is the yield of flowers and hips per plant? I’m in love with roses and thinking of selling the flowers for edible purposes, but not sure if it would be profitable!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 8, 2018 at 9:19 pm

      Hi Britt! Sorry to say that we’ve only grown rose hips for personal consumption, not for market. So we haven’t measured the rose hip yields, just used them immediately to make preserves, sauces, etc. Each hip is fairly large (probably the size of a large cherry) with a thin edible outside flesh with lots of seeds inside (perhaps useable in high quantity to press into oil). My best guess would be that a mature plant could produce 3-5 pounds of hips per year, but most of that weight would be seeds, not actual fruit. If you’re going to grow Rosa Rugosa for profit, it might be more valuable to harvest the rose buds and sell them as tea, depending on the market value of that product relative to the hips. Sorry I can’t be of more help on this topic!

      • Reply
        Britt
        April 8, 2018 at 9:56 pm

        No that’s great, thanks so much for the info!

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Foraged Recipes

Wood ear mushrooms: how to forage, grow, and eat

Wood ear mushrooms: how to forage, grow, and eat thumbnail

In this article, you’ll find out how to forage, identify, grow, and eat edible and medicinal wood ear mushrooms! 


Table of contents:

I. Introduction to wood ear mushrooms
II. How to forage & identify wood ear mushrooms
III. How to grow wood ear mushrooms
IV. How to eat wood ear mushrooms
V. Wood ear mushroom health and medicinal benefits
VI. Recipe: Wood ear mushroom and asparagus salad with citrus miso dressing

Wood ear mushrooms fruiting on a dead branch in South Carolina.

Wood ear mushrooms fruiting on a dead branch.

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    Rachel
    January 30, 2024 at 10:41 pm

    Any reason these couldn’t be harvested when they have dried on trees? Could I just rehydrate, then cook?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      January 31, 2024 at 9:50 pm

      Technically, you can harvest wood ear mushrooms when they’re dehydrated, but it’s much harder to do without taking off chunks of bark and tree with the mushroom. When they’re saturated, they’re much easier to harvest cleanly.

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Chef's Choice Recipes

Gourmet soft-scrambled eggs with stridolo/collejas & stinging nettle

Gourmet soft-scrambled eggs with stridolo/collejas & stinging nettle thumbnail

If you’re searching for the ultimate gourmet soft-scrambled egg recipe, you’re in the right place! Use Chef David Porras’s tips and tricks to make the best soft-scrambled eggs you’ve ever tasted. Add unusual greens like stridolo and stinging nettle to take the recipe to the next level. 


Soft-scrambled eggs can be gourmet food.

The goal of our Chef’s Choice series is to educate and inspire your inner home chef while introducing you to amazing, unusual ingredients. 

For this month’s recipe, Chef David Porras selected two of our favorite early spring greens from a list of potential ingredient options we offered: stridolo and stinging nettle. (More on these ingredients below.) 

After tasting the recipe he created, we immediately realized this recipe article should focus as much on the soft-scrambled eggs he made as the two greens used. Why? 

We raise egg-laying ducks, so eggs are the staple protein in our diet. Suffice it to say, we know a thing or two about how to cook eggs, including scrambled eggs. Or at least we thought we did. 

However, we’ve never thought about scrambled eggs as gourmet food or something we’d excitedly serve to dinner guests. All that changed after tasting Chef David’s soft scrambled eggs.

They were utterly delicious with a silky smooth texture and intense umami flavors beyond what we thought possible. 

One spoonful of Chef David's soft-scrambled eggs with wilted greens will help you realize that eggs can be gourmet food.

One spoonful of Chef David’s soft-scrambled eggs with wilted greens will help you realize that eggs can be gourmet food.

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    Foraged Recipes

    Maple-candied morel mushrooms with spruce needle-whipped cream

    Maple-candied morel mushrooms with spruce needle-whipped cream thumbnail

    Looking for a morel mushroom dessert recipe? You’ll love maple-candied morel mushrooms. And you can fancy the recipe up a notch by also making spruce needle whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with the leftovers from your candied morel pan. 


    Morel mushrooms… for dessert?

    In case you”re thinking, “Mushroom candy! What the _?” Allow us to explain… 

    Yes, maple-candied morel mushrooms are real. Yes, they're delicious. If you make them, we bet you'll love them too.

    Yes, maple-candied morel mushrooms are real. Yes, they’re delicious. If you make them, we bet you’ll love them too.

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      Gardening Recipes

      How to make fermented tea (not kombucha)

      How to make fermented tea (not kombucha) thumbnail

      In this article, you’ll find out how to make a simple, homemade “wild” fermented tea from scratch that offers caffeine, delicious flavor, probiotic benefits, and tongue-tingling effervescence!


      Table of contents: 

      Use the links below to jump to the section you’re interested in or drink up all the interesting information in the whole article!

      I. Two caffeine-producing plants tested/used: Tea Camellia and Yaupon holly
      II. What is wild fermentation?
      III. Recipe creation, methodology, and taste test results
      IV. How much caffeine is in this wild fermented tea?
      V. Jump to top fermented tea recipes

      Tea offers numerous health benefits. However, you should avoid consuming too much caffeine each day and also avoid consuming caffeine within 6 hours before bedtime. Otherwise, you’ll sacrifice sleep quality, which then has negative health consequences. Doh!   

      There are also numerous health benefits from consuming fermented foods and drinks. It just so happens we love tea and we love fermented foods and beverages. Thus, we set out to create our own delicious homegrown, homemade fermented tea that could give us our morning caffeine boost while also serving as a probiotic. After numerous kitchen experiments and taste tests, we’re excited to share the results with you so you can make your own fermented tea from store-bought or homegrown ingredients.   

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      6 Comments

      • Reply
        Marita
        April 28, 2025 at 5:27 pm

        a friend told me you can get yeast from yaupon to make bread. have you heard of this?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          April 29, 2025 at 2:05 pm

          That’s a new one for us, Marita. We’ve heard of capturing wild yeasts from fruits and certain tree bark in order to make bread, but have not heard of using yaupon in that way. Sounds interesting! If you try it, please report back to let us know how things turn out?

      • Reply
        Kayla
        February 19, 2024 at 2:01 am

        Hi! This recipe sounds yummy and I’m excited to try! Thanks for posting it and explaining the details and science behind everything. once question.

        You stated:When making wild fermentations, you’re promoting the proliferation of beneficial/desirable strains of microbes you want present by manipulating factors such as:

        pH levels,
        oxygen levels,
        SALINITY, and
        temperature.

        Obviously there’s not salt in the recipe (yuck) but how are you controlling the bad bacteria without it in a 15 day fermentation process. Are the good bacteria just that prolific in this recipe that nothing further is needed to mitigate the harmful bacteria?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          February 19, 2024 at 12:47 pm

          Yes, the other three factors (combined with the added sugar which gets yeasts super active) inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria.
          Obviously, hygiene is important too, aka using a clean jar, clean spoon when stirring, etc. We’ve never had a ferment of this nature go bad in well over a dozen years of making probably hundreds if not thousands of them.

      • Reply
        Mark F.
        November 4, 2023 at 8:50 am

        Can you describe the flavor of fermented tea? Is it vinegary like Kombucha? Or a milder sourness like a beer or wine? Or does it have that funky ‘barnyard’ aesthetic that wild yeast gives?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          November 5, 2023 at 9:41 pm

          Hi Mark! The fermented tea recipes in this article are not at all sour or vinegary like kombucha. They’re also not funky. Rather they’re quite delicious with subtle and unique flavors that are pretty hard to describe. The flavor of the honey shows up strongly as well, so if you don’t like honey, you could go with an alternative like organic cane sugar or maple syrup to get the microbes roaring. Perhaps do a small pint jar test batch to see if you like the fermented tea, then go from there.

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      Geese

      How to introduce new geese to your flock

      How to introduce new geese to your flock thumbnail

      Geese are social animals that thrive in flocks. However, adding new geese to your existing flock requires planning and management in order to prevent serious fights or injury. In this article, I’ll detail tips and considerations for integrating new geese into your flock.

      No icy hearts here! In this article, you'll find out how to make sure your new geese receive a warm reception from your existing flock.

      No icy hearts here! In this article, you’ll find out how to make sure your new geese receive a warm reception from your existing flock.

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      4 Comments

      • Reply
        Nikki
        April 29, 2023 at 9:10 am

        I have a batch of 3 day old goslings, and 3 week old ducklings. Can I coop/raise them together when they get closer in size? Or does the goose nursery and duck nursery need to be kept separate?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          May 1, 2023 at 12:00 pm

          Hi! I just spoke with MJ (the author) about your question. We both agree that in your situation, you’re perfectly fine raising your goslings and ducklings together so long as there is ample room for them all in the nursery. Your goslings will quickly catch up to the size of your ducklings, probably within a week or so.

      • Reply
        Michele Logan
        March 19, 2023 at 9:18 pm

        Hi there,

        I have a Pilgrim Guardian Goose for my flock of 7 ducks and 28 chickens. I want to add 9 additional ducklings, and two goslings (one female, one male) at the same time this Spring. Is one gander to two geese a good ratio? Thanks very much for your help.

        • Reply
          Madia (MJ)
          March 20, 2023 at 3:19 pm

          Hi! One gander to two geese is a fine ratio. Even 2 ganders to one goose will work!

      Leave a Reply

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      Recipes

      Recipe: Stinging nettle dip with labne

      Recipe: Stinging nettle dip with labne thumbnail

      Use this simple, 15 minute stinging nettle dip recipe to turn young stinging nettle leaves and growth tips into a delicious dip you can use on crackers, sliced veggies, and more!


      Stinging nettle as gourmet food?

      Let’s get this bit out of the way first… As we wrote about in Why you should grow and use stinging nettle, stinging nettle isn’t merely edible, it’s quite delicious once you know how to use it. Not to mention, its high protein and nutrient density is far superior to pretty much any other leafy green out there. 

      We love edible weeds. Since stinging nettle (which grows as a perennial) is one of our favorite “weeds” to eat, we intentionally grow it in confined spaces in our garden. 

      A beautiful harvest of stinging nettle growth tips from our garden. We'll share stinging nettle harvesting tips and tricks below!

      A beautiful harvest of stinging nettle growth tips from a patch in our garden. We’ll share stinging nettle harvesting tips and tricks below!

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        Gardening

        Why you should grow and use stinging nettle

        Why you should grow and use stinging nettle thumbnail

        Common stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is a perennial plant found in temperate regions throughout the world. Often maligned due to its painful “stings,” stinging nettle is actually a flavorful, high-protein superfood with a long history of use as a culinary, medicinal, and fiber plant.


        Table of contents:

        I. Stinging nettle: introduction and interesting facts
        II. How to treat a stinging nettle sting
        II. How to grow stinging nettle
        IV. How to harvest and eat stinging nettle – with recipes!
        V. Stinging nettle medicinal uses

        An early spring harvest basket full of stinging nettles at Tyrant Farms.

        An early spring harvest basket full of stinging nettles at Tyrant Farms.

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        2 Comments

        • Reply
          Kat
          March 25, 2023 at 10:15 am

          False nettle (Boehmeria cylindrica) has most of the same benefits of stinging nettle, but without the sting. I grow it as a butterfly host plant.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            March 25, 2023 at 5:16 pm

            Thanks! How is Boehmeria cylindrica from an edibility standpoint? Late winter/early spring stinging nettle is one of our very favorite veggies.

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        Ducks

        Should you get male or female ducks or both?

        Should you get male or female ducks or both? thumbnail

        Should you get male or female ducks or both? How many ducks should you get in your first flock?

        In this article, we’ll help get you the information you need to answer those questions well!

        Male or female ducks: choosing the right sexes and number of ducks for your backyard flock

        If you’re a newbie to the world of raising ducks, a quick lesson on terminology: 

        • mature male ducks are called “drakes”;
        • mature female ducks are called “ducks” or “hens.” 

        This terminology can get confusing when you’re referring to a group of male and female ducks as simply “ducks,” while simultaneously referencing drakes (males) and ducks (females). We’ll try to be crystal clear when referring to male or female ducks in this article so as not to cause confusion.   

        Our Welsh Harlequin duck ladies foraging and playing in the front yard garden on a summer evening.

        Our Welsh Harlequin duck ladies foraging and playing in the front yard garden on a summer evening.

        Below are seven questions you’ll want to answer BEFORE deciding: a) how many ducks to get in your backyard flock, and b) the number and ratio of male and female ducks in your first flock:

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        14 Comments

        • Reply
          LJ
          July 1, 2023 at 8:05 pm

          I’m just wondering did your drakes fight even when they were penned up separately from the hens or only when they were all in together? I recently got ducklings from a friend who it turns out does not know how to correctly vent sex. I thought I was getting 3 hens but at 9 weeks based on their voices I’ve got 3 drakes. I have a lot of space and I’m really enjoying raising them so I’m going to try to get some females that I will buy from a hatchery where I will be certain of what I’m getting. I know it can be really hard to rehome drakes except to people who want them for meat so I think I will end up keeping them as well. I’m trying to figure out what kind of setup I will need to make that work. Thanks for your help!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 3, 2023 at 1:55 pm

            Great question, LJ! Once we saw our drakes were fighting each other relentlessly and over-mating the girls, we put them in separate but adjoining pens during the day. The pens were made of temporary fencing. Almost immediately, they then started reaching through the pen fencing to fight each other, pulling out feathers, etc. So we then had to put enough distance between their pens so they couldn’t reach each other.

            We just got 6 additional ducks from a rescue operation, and one is a male Indian Runner. We’re not sure his age, but he is (at least for now) far less aggressive than any Welsh Harlequin drake we’ve had — or males of any other breed we’ve been around. But we can’t make any generalized claims about drake behavior variability by breed.

            We have heard from other people that if you have an all-drake flock, they’re not aggressive with each other since there aren’t females around to get worked up over and fight about. Since we’ve never had an all-drake flock, we can neither confirm nor deny that claim. Ha.
            So, if you plan to keep all three of your drakes, you *might* be able to keep them from fighting each other by NOT getting females.

            If you do get females, you’ll need to plan on having separate enclosures for your males during the day and partitions in your coop to keep them separated from each other at night. (Or separate coops, but that’s more expensive.)

            One bright spot is that drakes’ hormones diminish as sunlight levels decrease in the fall, so their behavior is not problematic from fall through late winter. Each year for the past 10 years, our drake is allowed to fully commingle with the flock during that time window, up until we notice his behavior starting to change as sunlight hours increase in late winter/early spring.

            Hope this helps and good luck!

        • Reply
          Amanda C
          July 29, 2021 at 11:17 am

          My husband and I found 8 duck eggs in our backyard (from two wild mallards that would frequent our pool every spring). The momma duck left the eggs unattended for about a week when we had construction done. Long story short, we found the 8 cold eggs in our bushes by the pool, and a squirrel had already eaten 4 eggs (momma duck laid 12 eggs total). So we were forced to rescue the 8 eggs and ended up having a successful hatch of all 8! Since we weren’t expecting to get ducks for a while (my husband always wanted them/he thinks these eggs we found were a “gift from above”), we had to quickly research how to care for ducklings. We gave 3 of the ducks away to a friend who owns a farm with her own pet ducks and we currently have 5. We thought we had 2 boys and 3 girls, but one of the “girls” decided to develop a green head. We built a super safe duck hutch for them and are almost done building a 9ft round pond for them. (Hutch and pond will also have an enclosure built around them) We don’t want to give away any more ducks because we are super attached to all of them-so what is the best way to house them to keep them from hurting each other? Should we keep the two girls in the large hutch and buy 3 separate hutches for the boys? And do we only have to separate the drakes and hens during mating season or all year round?

          Hope these questions aren’t silly! Bear with us, we are new duck parents. And we don’t really care about egg production-these guys are first and foremost our pets. (Eggs are a bonus).

          Thanks in advance for any advice you could offer.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 30, 2021 at 9:52 am

            Hi Amanda! Before diving into answering your questions, one thing you may want to consider is re-wilding your Mallards once they mature. They’re wild birds, not bred, and that may ultimately be what’s best for them. The other thing to consider is that unlike flightless bred ducks, Mallards can and will fly, which will make them more difficult to keep. If you decide to release them, you could then get a sexed run of bred ducks, and not have problems (which will make things far easier for you, especially as first time duck parents). Obviously, it’s your decision either way, just wanted to introduce that possibility for your consideration.

            With your male-to-female ratio (3:2), things are going to be a bit tricky, as you already know. Young drakes are going to be particularly aggressive for the majority of the year; they will calm down during the coldest months. Some people also say that drakes calm down as they age. We have an eight year old drake who is still very aggressive when his hormones are turned up.

            With multiple drakes, you can build a large single run and coop, but you’ll want to have partitions within the structures to keep them separated from each other – 1/2″ wire meshing or something similar so they can’t reach through and grab each other.

            Hope this helps, even if it’s not good news. 🙂

        • Reply
          Zoe Mendez
          July 7, 2021 at 6:11 pm

          Hi Duck friends,
          So I thought I had two females. That’s what I ordered from Metzer farms but I know they’re not always correct. I have White Duclaire’s so they look identical.

          Penny, the bossy one has been more prone to charging our dogs from a few months old. Then at about 4 months old Penny started to mount Poppy. I read that sometimes two females will do this if there’s no Male in the flock so I didn’t worry too much.

          Now, at 6.5 months old the mounting is becoming more frequent. Poppy recently started limping due to a non-visible leg injury and her Ming feathers definitely look scuffed.

          We also have never found more than one egg per day since they started laying. The evidence seems to suggest we have a drake on our hands which is too much for our one female. Should we get another girl or two???

          Thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge. You guys are the best!

          I don’t know what I’d do with at your guidance!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 8, 2021 at 7:12 am

            Hi Zoe! Thanks for your kind words. Sorry to hear you’re having difficulties there.

            Yes, female ducks will still have sex with each other – ours do it regularly even though we have a drake around. So that’s not an accurate way to determine their sex, as you said. One egg a day would seem like a pretty good indicator that you have a mixed-sex pair, but even that may not be definitive given their age (some ducks won’t start laying until Month 6 ) or if the duck has hormone or reproductive tract issues.

            Let’s try two other things to sex your ducks:
            1) Does Penny have curly drake feathers on the top base of her tail? If so, “she” is a male.
            2) Are both ducks’ voices the same? Female ducks are the loud honkers; drakes make a raspy blurp-blurp sound. If Penny doesn’t honk but instead makes raspy calls, “she” is a male.

            As for mating and/or over-mating injuries: if the ducks are having sex on the ground or in a shallow pool wherein the bottom duck (Penny) has to stand while being mounted, leg injuries are much more likely to happen. Our girls always go to their pool for sexy time, and the pool is deep enough so that they’re fully floating throughout each glorious escapade – thus no foot/leg injuries ensue. Is it possible for you to provide a deeper pool? Adding more ducks to your flock may help reduce Penny’s sexual focus on Poppy, but if the bottom ducks aren’t able to float during sexy time, the problem of leg injuries is likely to persist.

        • Reply
          Susan
          April 25, 2021 at 7:13 pm

          Do you make your own duck diapers or are they available online?
          What a great idea!

        • Reply
          Anthony David Sagastume
          October 4, 2020 at 3:50 am

          Can I get a single duck if I have other pets or does it need to be around other avian creatures??

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            October 5, 2020 at 10:24 pm

            Great question, thanks! We’d strongly recommend getting a second duck for the simple reason that ducks will be happiest if they have another member of their own species around. They can and will bond to another pet (or person) if that’s the only game in town, but there’s no love like duck love.

            • Reply
              Vanessa
              October 8, 2020 at 1:35 pm

              I have two Drake Pekin ducks who are 20 weeks old. They are starting to become aggressive with me. Are they craving female company? Have I made a mistake having only males? I don’t really have the space for a large flock which is why I thought two would be fine.
              Advice please.

              • Aaron von Frank
                October 9, 2020 at 9:46 pm

                Hi Vanessa! Can you provide specific examples of what you mean by aggressive? Typically, with no females around, drakes should be relatively calm and make good pets. If they’ve never been in the company of a female duck, they don’t know what they’re missing. Given the information you’ve provided, it seems like a good idea for you to have two drakes, assuming you’re not interested in egg production.

        • Reply
          Heidi
          September 16, 2020 at 9:50 pm

          Hi, we also learned the hard way that the mating between the male and female duck lasts through the night, so we are separating them to see how that goes. My hope is when they are out foraging in the yard, they can be civil and the male will not try and make up for “lost time.” My question is, how much time does your drake spend on his own during the day? We do have two coops we could separate them in. They are a nice pair but the over-mating is really too much for our female’s neck, and we don’t have the space for more females. Thanks.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            September 18, 2020 at 1:30 pm

            There are seasonal variations in a drake’s libido, as well as variations by age. A younger drake will be much more aggressive than a 5+ year old drake, however our 7 year old drake is still quite the ladies’ man. Also, from late winter through summer, your drake will likely be far more sexually aggressive than he will be from late fall through mid winter. At present, we keep our drake in a separate coop at night. During the day, we allow for a quick conjugal visit in the morning, otherwise he’s in a separate fenced run. However, there’s about a 2-3 month window in the cold months when our drake is able to be fully integrated with the females, although we still do keep him in his own coop at night just to keep him comfortable with and used to those accommodations.

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        Chef's Choice Recipes

        Recipe: Calamondin citrus-scallop aguachile

        Recipe: Calamondin citrus-scallop aguachile thumbnail

        Quick introduction to Chef David and our new Chef’s Choice series

        Calamondin citrus-scallop aguachile is the first recipe in our new Chef’s Choice recipe series created by James Beard-nominated chef, David Porras. The goal of this series is to educate and inspire your inner home chef while introducing you to amazing, unusual ingredients. 

        This month, we challenged Chef David to turn our homegrown orange-ripe calamondin citrus (aka calamansi) into a healthy, delicious recipe that’s simple enough to make at home but sophisticated enough to be served at a high-end restaurant.  (Related article: How to grow and use calamondin citrus)

        Calamondins from our potted citrus orchard. Fodder for Chef David. When orange-ripe, calamondins taste like a tart cross between kumquats, tangerines, and lemons. In some countries/cultures, they also use green calamondins as lime alternatives. 

        Substitution note: Don’t have calamondins? A 50-50 mix of tangerine and lemon juice will provide a close flavor proximation. 

        Chef David Porras's calamondin citrus-scallop aguachile recipe.

        Chef David Porras’s calamondin citrus-scallop aguachile recipe. Never in a million years would we have thought to make this with our calamondins.

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          Gardening

          Edible hibiscus? How to grow and use Hibiscus sabdariffa

          Edible hibiscus? How to grow and use Hibiscus sabdariffa thumbnail

          Certain hibiscus plants don’t just make beautiful flowers, they can also make wonderful edible plants! In this article, you’ll learn more how to ID, grow, and use edible hibiscus, specifically Hibiscus sabdariffa.


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          68 Comments

          • Reply
            Cindy
            October 2, 2024 at 3:28 pm

            Can both blossoms and calyxes be harvested or will removal of the blossoms prior to them drying up and falling off inhibit the calyxes from maturing? Same if wanting to save a few calyxes for seed production – will removing the blossoms in order to use said blossoms inhibit the production of seeds?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              October 2, 2024 at 4:15 pm

              Removing the hibiscus blossoms isn’t likely to inhibit calyx or seed development so long as the reproductive organs of the flower aren’t damaged when you remove the petals. The petals are edible but relatively nondescript, so I doubt you’d use enough of them to put much of a dent in overall production calyx or seed production.

          • Reply
            Amit Jindal
            June 5, 2024 at 10:39 am

            Hi,
            I live in CT and I think our zone is 6a. I guess this verity will can’t be used outside in my zone.. Do you know if any other hardy hibiscus verity can be edible in my zone?
            Thanks

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 5, 2024 at 2:11 pm

              Hi Amit! Hibiscus sabdariffa is the best edible hibiscus so they’re the one we’d recommend. You can grow it in your zone but you’ll need to ensure your plants get a longer growing season by doing one or both of the following: 1) starting the plants earlier indoors to get them a few months jumpstart on the season, and/or 2) growing them in moveable pots/containers rather than in-ground so you can move them into protection in late summer-fall whenever temperatures start getting too cold for them. Hope this helps!

          • Reply
            Kim
            July 24, 2023 at 5:53 pm

            Hello – My husband was told Hollywood Hibiscus is edible. Is that correct? I searched online but no where does it list Hollywood Hibiscus are edible.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              July 25, 2023 at 7:35 am

              It’s very difficult to provide sweeping generalizations as to the edibility of novel hybrids like those carrying the Hollywood hibiscus name. The answer is that the flowers are probably edible. The leaves may be too. They’re also very unlikely to be either: a) very good from an edibility standpoint since that’s not what they’re bred for, or b) poisonous. Since the plant is not likely to contain harmful compounds at high concentrations, you could taste a small amount and see if you find it flavorful and also see if you have any averse reactions. However, if you want the best edible hibiscus plant that has a long history of safe use as food, choose Hibiscus sabdariffa, aka roselle.

          • Reply
            Rumi
            September 24, 2022 at 4:54 pm

            hi , I live in the tropics and we have Hibiscus moscheutos commonly found here. The flower is bright red and some leaves are checkered or variated while most are dark green. Is this variety edible ?

            • Reply
              Susan von Frank
              September 24, 2022 at 10:13 pm

              Hi Rumi! Yes, Hibiscus moscheutos leaves and flowers are edible, raw or cooked. They’re not as good as Hibiscus sabdariffa in our opinion. Very mild flavor and slight bit of mucilage. The flowers are beautiful on a plate though. As far as edible hibiscuses go, we don’t know of a better one that H. sabdariffa.

          • Reply
            Ann Redmond
            July 26, 2022 at 8:11 pm

            I would like to grow more hibiscus. I have one beautiful, [ i think it is a double yellow..] I want to use hibiscus for teas … I am unsure if my yellow one is edible, Ive only seen the red ones being used for ingesting. Do you sell any of the edible Hibiscus? or seeds? or can u recommend some one who does.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              July 27, 2022 at 11:44 am

              Hi Ann! Some people say that ALL hibiscus plant flowers are edible, but we’re not comfortable making that absolute claim for two reasons: 1) There are innumerable subspecies, varieties, and hybrids of hibiscus out there, each one featuring slightly different chemical compositions. 2) Individual physiology varies by person and some people may be taking medications that negatively interact with compounds found in hibiscus. That’s to say, one person consuming the same hibiscus flowers at the same quantity might be fine and another might experience some ill effects.

              That’s why we recommend utilizing hibiscus plants such as Hibiscus sabdariffa, with a long history of safe culinary use/human consumption. (Even then, safety exceptions may apply for people taking certain types of medications.) Are your yellow hibiscus flowers edible? Probably so, but don’t take that as a guarantee or an assurance of safety. If you do decide to try them, start with a small amount, such as a single flower made into a tea, and see if you notice any adverse effects.

              As far as where to buy Hibiscus sabdariffa seeds, we provide a link to a recommended and highly rated retailer (the Plant Good Seed Store) in the article but we’ll include it again here: https://amzn.to/3vmy3YS.

          • Reply
            Martha Norris
            February 15, 2022 at 3:07 pm

            Hi Aaron I have been looking for Hibiscus Sabdariffa plan to grow out side, I live in Sacramento Ca. I have other Hibiscus plants that are not the Sabdariffa, can you suggest where to buy one or mail order a plant ?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              February 15, 2022 at 3:35 pm

              Hi Martha! It looks like you’re in Ag Zone 9. Hibiscus sabdariffa/roselle can be grown as a perennial in Zones 8+ so you’re fortunate in that regard – you won’t have to get or grow new roselle plants every year.

              I have seen a few online nurseries selling Hibiscus sabdariffa as potted plants. Example, Logee’s: https://www.logees.com/roselle-jamaican-hibiscus-hibiscus-sabdariffa.html. However, buying them as plants is quite expensive (up to $20/plant) whereas you can buy a pack of certified organic seeds for under $5. You may want to go that route instead?

              Another option is to call local nurseries in your area to see if they happen to have any available. You might get lucky.

          • Reply
            Barbara K
            December 28, 2021 at 2:44 pm

            I am in Zone 7a on the NJ shore. I would like to try edible Hibiscus, but I guess it won’t be perennial in this climate. Wondering if I could do it in a pot. I have several tub plants, (ornamental hibiscus tree, lemon, mandevilla, ferns, oleander, fig) , which I winter successfully in a sunroom which stays above freezing. Does it seem to you that it would be worth a try?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              December 29, 2021 at 11:55 am

              Hi Barbara! We’re in Zone 7b in Greenville, South Carolina, so our zones are nearly identical. We don’t grow edible Hibiscus sabdariffa as a perennial here, we grow it as an annual.

              Yes, you can grow Hibiscus sabdariffa in pots if you want to, but in your case you actually don’t need to. However, to get a good yield of hibiscus calyxes in our temperate climate zone, you’ll need to start the plants early indoors – right around now through early January would be ideal. Then transplant them out after your last frost date in spring.

              If you do try to grow them in pots, keep in mind that they’re relatively fast-growing and can get pretty large (~6 ft tall with a 4-5′ spread). So you’ll eventually need to pot them up into large pots (5 gallon+) and have plenty of room for them indoors in your sunroom. Again, our recommendation would be to grow them as annuals instead.

          • Reply
            Ivona S
            March 3, 2021 at 12:20 pm

            Hi, i am trying to plant hibiscus sabdarifa this year. They sprout but when they have 2 leaves they dy out and die. I have them inside it is March curently, on windows that get a lots of sun, it is too soon to plant them out yet. Please advise what i need to do to keep them alive for rest of the seazon. I water at least 1 a week. Temp is around 74- 75 F, i spray to mist almost every day, they dont sit in water.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 4, 2021 at 8:00 am

              Sorry, Ivona. It’s hard to provide an accurate diagnosis of what’s going on with your Hibiscus sabdarifa seedlings without seeing the plants. It doesn’t sound like you’re over-watering them, which would cause rot and/or damping off. If you’re only watering them once per week, it’s possible the soil is actually too dry and that’s what’s killing them. You want to maintain even soil moisture with your seedlings – not too damp, not too dry. Ideal consistency is like a well-wrung out sponge.

              Another possibility is they’re not getting enough sun if you have modern energy-efficient windows which filter out a lot of light. If this is the case, the seedlings would look tall and spindly, before eventually flopping over and dying.

              Let me know if this info helps or if you’d like to send some photos for a diagnosis?

          • Reply
            Riches
            December 15, 2020 at 2:55 am

            my hibiscus tea is ready for harvest but I don’t know when to cut it and I don’t also have the dryer

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              December 15, 2020 at 12:54 pm

              No problem, Riches! Just snip off the dark red calyxes from the plant, remove the interior seed pod, and enjoy. You can eat your Hibiscus sabdariffa calyxes raw, cooked, or made into tea. They’ll also dry fine without a dehydrator. Remove the seed pods, lay out in a single layer on a table or cookie sheet, and place them under an indoor fan for about a week until they’re nice and dry. Then store in ziplocks. You can also use the leaves – younger leaves are better for fresh eating or cooking.

          • Reply
            Cristina
            December 14, 2020 at 10:52 pm

            Hibiscus sabdariffa, aka ‘Florida cranberry,’ ‘Cranberry hibiscus,’ and ‘Roselle.’ it’s a little bit confusing to me, because I thought that “cranberry hibiscus” is Hibiscus acetosella.
            Thank you!

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              December 15, 2020 at 12:51 pm

              I think ‘cranberry hibiscus’ is more commonly used to refer to Hibiscus acetosella, but we’ve also heard people refer to Hibiscus sabdariffa with the same common name. That’s why we simply call the plant by its scientific name, Hibiscus sabdariffa – hard to confuse that one! Hibiscus acetosella is a good edible in its own right (for greens) but does not produce edible calyxes like H. sabdariffa.

          • Reply
            lisa
            November 15, 2020 at 6:35 pm

            Hi, I’ve never had hibiscus until last week when I harvested some from a friends plants to make tea. It was maybe the best thing I’ve ever had to drink and I want to plant them everywhere.

            I saved the seeds and have them indoors, but notice some are molding and turning black. I’m in north Florida, its November. I opened one of the pods and took the little seeds out. They are still white. Will they be usable or does the entire pod have to dry out with the seeds inside?

            What is the proper method for drying the pods and preventing mold?

            Thanks kindly : )

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              November 17, 2020 at 10:39 pm

              In our experience, Hibiscus sabdariffa can be a little tricky to save seed from. You need to let the calyxes mature beyond the ripe stage that you’d harvest them at for eating in order for the seeds to fully develop. Basically, leave them on the plant until they’re desiccated, then harvest and dry for seed. You might want to ask your friend if they can leave some of the calyxes on their plant for the purpose of seed saving.

              Once you have pods with fully mature seeds, dry them indoors with the seeds inside or remove them from the pod for drying (it doesn’t really matter either way). My guess is the reason your hibiscus pods molded is because the seeds/pod were immature so they basically started to rot.

          • Reply
            Eileen Johnson
            November 7, 2020 at 12:42 pm

            I reread the article again and found the link to the false Rosella. That’s what I have.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              November 11, 2020 at 5:02 pm

              Ah, great! Glad you identified your False Roselle!

          • Reply
            Eileen Johnson
            November 7, 2020 at 12:38 pm

            I was given what i am told is a hibiscus several years ago that is a perennial in my northern Florida location. It dies and come back in the spring . The leaves are rather purplish and maple shape and the flower or calyxes have no taste for tea. But the leaves are awesomely tart and I love eating them raw. Do you know if indeed it is a type of hibiscus and I’m safe to eat it? I also have the annuals that I plant and use for tea. Thank you.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              November 11, 2020 at 5:01 pm

              Hi Eileen! There are so many hybrid hibiscuses out there, it’s impossible to say for certain whether a particular hibiscus cultivar/plant is edible or not. In your case, since you’ve had years of experiencing ingesting your plant presumably without ill effect, it sounds like it is indeed edible. Given the distinct morphological features of hibiscus plants, you should be able to positively identify it as belonging to the Hibiscus genus.

          • Reply
            Ellen
            October 25, 2020 at 2:42 pm

            Home is in Columbus Ohio. I started my seeds indoors in February and were planted outside in May when about 6-8 inches tall. I planted several in different light settings. Plants consistently only grew 5 ft tall. Can see potential flowers and calyxes but never bloomed and it is the end of October. I will harvest some leaves before frost but why didn’t I get blooms. I can bring one plant indoors. Should I try and overwinter it by a window?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              October 26, 2020 at 3:48 pm

              Hi Ellen! Hard to say for certain what happened, but Hibiscus sabdariffa is a tropical native that does require a pretty long growing season to produce calyxes. I’m wondering if your season was either a bit too short or your light levels a bit too low to trigger calyx production. Next year, you may want to start your seeds 6-8 weeks earlier so your plants have an even longer jumpstart. As for your current plants, yes, you can bring them indoors to overwinter if you have a bright, sunny south-facing window. Please check back in to let us know how things turn out.

          • Reply
            Rebecca Dean
            October 5, 2020 at 5:40 pm

            Do you havest the purple before the white flower comes. I wish i could send a picture. The plants are as tall as my house and loaded. I’m confused on how to harvest. If I wait until it gets white flower I can’t get the purple.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              October 5, 2020 at 10:32 pm

              Rebecca, can you please send photos of your hibiscus to aaron @ tyrantfarms.com? If you’re growing Hibiscus sabdariffa, the calyxes should enlarge significantly and become easier to harvest after they’ve flowered and set. So, please shoot me some photos and let’s see if we can figure out what’s happening with your plant.

          • Reply
            Charleneje
            September 26, 2019 at 9:07 pm

            Actual seeds I get from my Hibiscus are black/brown in color and on the widest part have like a hairy kind of ring around them I have nevr got them to grow by planting them but have had alot of seedlings come up from dropped seedpods never understood why I cant get them to produce seedlings when I plant them in good seed soil in peat pots

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 27, 2019 at 6:49 pm

              Are you growing Hibiscus sabdariffa or a different variety? Not sure why your saved seeds wouldn’t germinate if the seeds you leave outdoor are germinating. Is it possible you’re harvesting the roselles that you’re planning to save for seed too early, therefore not giving the seeds enough time to mature? We’ve actually made that mistake ourselves before.

          • Reply
            Anonymous
            September 22, 2019 at 11:44 am

            How do I make tea from the fresh leaves? Can I dry the leaves and have them for use at a later date?

            I’m a few months too late getting to the fresh calyxes, I think. These plants have done wonderfully up here in south-central Pennsylvania, but I too had to start them under lights in March.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 23, 2019 at 11:09 am

              Harvest, chop, and dry the leaves, then use them throughout the year.

              Are you saying your plants formed calyxes but you’re just late harvesting or that your hibiscus plants didn’t have enough time to form calyxes in the first place up in PA? Would be good for other people in northern climates to have some additional info based on your growing experience. Thanks!

          • Reply
            Rachel Davenport Jasper
            June 8, 2019 at 12:53 pm

            Is it too late to plant Roselle hibiscus seeds directly in the ground? Middle TN.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 9, 2019 at 11:01 am

              Hi Rachel! Hmm. Sounds like you’re somewhere in Zone 7b, which is equivalent to us (we’re in Greenville, SC). The fastest we’ve ever gone from seed to harvestable hibiscus roselle is ~3 months. You could feasibly get 1-2 months of production out of them, especially if you have a late first frost this year. The plants are not at all frost tolerant. However, you probably won’t have time to get a LOT of roselles. Our recommendation: go for it! Just make sure you save some seeds for next year and try to get an earlier start.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 9, 2019 at 11:12 am

              I should also note that Hibiscus sabdariffa leaves make an excellent tea too, and taste proximate to the calyxes. So you can use the leaves even if you run out of time on the calyxes.

          • Reply
            Jennifer S.
            July 8, 2015 at 8:04 pm

            Been trying to harvest from my hibiscus but my calyxes only go from the normal green while bloomed then to yellow after blooms fall, how do I get them to produce the red calyxes for jelly and teas?

          • Reply
            Thu Thuy
            June 25, 2015 at 4:54 pm

            i would like to have some seed,
            please. I can’t find the plant any where near me.
            My email : [email protected] and mailing address: 1310 W 43rd CT Kennewick,WA 99337. Can i put the seed down right now or have to wait until fall.

          • Reply
            Linda Gray
            May 12, 2015 at 3:30 pm

            Where can I find the edible Hibiscus in my area of Central VA?

          • Reply
            Carol
            May 4, 2015 at 5:58 pm

            Can you use ANY hibiscus for the tea? I don’t know the name of mine but is has large red flowers.

          • Reply
            elyse
            April 25, 2015 at 3:44 pm

            I’m assuming you can’t use hibiscus plants found in garden centers for edible purposes? I’ve been seeing hibiscus used in recipies and diy beauty treatments which I’ve been getting into lately. I’m getting ready to start a blog about all my adventures, and growing and using hibiscus is definitely in my plans. I think I’m a little late to start them this year but plan to try anyway. Thanks for the great info!

          • Reply
            Stacie
            February 11, 2015 at 10:19 pm

            Do you just grow new hibiscus plants each year as annuals? I love Hibiscus tea (am drinking some right now). I am a medical student in Augusta, GA, but I love gardening. I have actually been testing the weather here this winter to see if Camellia sinensis (for green tea) would survive, and the little plants I have are really thriving so far. The cold weather and frosts did not bother them at all. I would really like to try growing Hibiscus sometime. Do you just grow them out in the garden during the warm weather, and they get big enough in one season to harvest plenty of calyxes? And how early in the spring would you need to start the seeds?

          • Reply
            Landrew
            January 24, 2015 at 1:07 pm

            I am LOVING saril tea in Panama. Would like to try growing it in Victoria BC Canada, but not sure whether I should bring seeds in suitcase or whether this variety will grow there.
            I will certainly try.

          • Reply
            Ita Carey
            January 4, 2015 at 6:36 pm

            This was very interesting information. My Mom buys a new hibiscus every year because in New Mexico they tend to freeze. We had no idea these beautiful flowers were edible and good for you. We would love to receive some of your seeds.

          • Reply
            Courtney the
            January 2, 2015 at 4:02 am

            Any chance you would ship those seeds to the states? I live in so cal and would be thrilled to grow these beauties.

          • Reply
            Samantha
            December 14, 2014 at 2:50 pm

            Do you have any seeds to spare still?

          • Reply
            Zachary Johnson
            October 22, 2014 at 9:27 pm

            I love growing plants if you can send me some seeds I will share them with my friends ..Ewa blue worms is my handle worms make my garden grow seeds sprout in the vermicast.

          • Reply
            vanessa
            October 5, 2014 at 4:38 pm

            Curious… I have hibiscus flowers, but the calyxes never turn red… they pretty much stay a tan or brown… are these useful? are those flowers ok to use as tea, if not the calyxes?
            Thanks for whatever information you can give.

          • Reply
            Dawn
            June 18, 2014 at 8:20 am

            I recently went to a tea sampling class and had the opportunity to try iced hibiscus tea and what a delight. I was so amazed. Not only a beautiful flower but your post and pics educated me to all of the other uses of this wonderful flower. Thanks for this! I would love to try to plant some of your seeds if you have any left. Thanks and I look forward to your other tips and recipes!

          • Reply
            Mariana
            April 24, 2014 at 2:48 pm

            these flowers are very useful in many ways!

          • Reply
            Aaron
            April 7, 2014 at 9:11 am

            Senait: Please send us an email with your address to [email protected]. I’d be happy to send some seeds to you.

          • Reply
            Paulette
            October 20, 2013 at 7:38 pm

            I was given a a handful of hibiscus calyxes today at the farmers markets. I’m so glad I found your blog! I wasn’t given enough to make jelly, but I now know I can use them in place of cranberries (fresh) and for tea (dried). Thanks so much!
            And to think I grew up with hibiscus in the yard and never knew about the tart calyx.

            • Reply
              Susan
              October 22, 2013 at 2:46 pm

              Thank you and same here, Paulette! We both grew up with hibiscuses and never had any idea about their edible properties until we became obsessed with gardening a few years ago. Now, we love them for their food, not just their beauty, and have to grow them every year.

          • Reply
            Charlie@Seattle Trekker
            October 3, 2013 at 2:18 am

            Very interesting, I am always looking for ideas that stretch me as a gardener. Thank you.

            • Reply
              Susan
              October 3, 2013 at 11:24 am

              Thanks Charlie! The variety of plants to choose from in a garden is staggering. Each new season offers a chance to try something new (although it’s always nice to have a bunch of staple perennial plants).

          • Reply
            Patricia Chandler Walker
            October 1, 2013 at 12:45 am

            I hope to drop by in the next few weeks. You are definitely out of my stomping grounds, but I do come to Gville now on tue evenings for something. Maybe one Tue I can come early and drop by. Also I really want to get to one of those Permaculture meetings.

            • Reply
              Susan
              October 1, 2013 at 9:38 am

              Sounds good! Just give us a little bit of a heads up if you know you’ll be swinging by on one of your Tuesday visits.

          • Reply
            Reid giacomarra
            September 30, 2013 at 11:14 pm

            Love hibiscus. Good for mild hypertension. Live in n.j. & have 2 other varieties that are tasty but don’t make that beautiful ruby tart tea.thanks for the interesting information.

            • Reply
              Aaron
              December 18, 2013 at 7:46 pm

              Thanks Reid! Glad you enjoyed the post. Yes, there are also a number of interesting medical benefits that can be enjoyed from drinking tea hibiscus as well.

          • Reply
            Kanit Jacobs
            September 30, 2013 at 10:54 pm

            that’s great information. I’ve tried hibiscus tea once, it was delicious.

            • Reply
              Susan
              October 23, 2013 at 9:08 pm

              Thanks Kanit! Glad you enjoyed – the article and the tea. 🙂

          • Reply
            Patricia Chandler Walker
            September 30, 2013 at 9:11 pm

            The picture itself looks scrumptious.You two are so creative in your gardening. You make it so fun. I will have to try some next year. I would love to get a couple of seeds of that and the Cape gooseberry (isn’t that the one you raved about?). I ordered a couple of Goji berry plants I can’t wait to get them going.

            • Reply
              Susan
              September 30, 2013 at 9:56 pm

              @Patricia: You know it! Want us to drop some in the mail or do you think you’ll be able to swing by in the next few weeks before the summer growing season officially ends? And thanks for the nice compliments!

          • Reply
            ajgroe
            September 30, 2013 at 8:28 pm

            Love edible floras! I spent the summer dreaming of growing edible hibiscus, but that wasn’t on our to do list this year. This will give me the opportunity to do so next year!

            • Reply
              Susan
              September 30, 2013 at 9:54 pm

              AJ: We just emailed you at your gmail account so let us know your address and we’ll get some seeds in the mail to you. We’re glad this will push you over the edge. Next summer, make sure to get them planted in a warm, well-draining spot with rich soil, and you should have get all the hibiscus calyxes you can handle. They’re a great and unusuak treat!

              • Reply
                ajgroe
                December 9, 2013 at 5:34 pm

                This is very late, but I received the seeds. I’m very excited to add these to the garden next year. Already have a great, sunny spot to put them. Thank you so much!

                • Aaron
                  December 18, 2013 at 7:36 pm

                  Thanks for growing seeds! Please let us know how they do in the spring. 🙂

          Leave a Reply

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          Ducks

          Where to buy ducklings or ducks for your backyard or small farm

          Where to buy ducklings or ducks for your backyard or small farm thumbnail

          There are both practical and ethical considerations to keep in mind when you’re trying to decide where to buy ducklings or mature ducks. Depending on your location and needs, there might not be a perfect answer to the question “where’s the best place to get ducklings or ducks?”

          However, to help you make the best decision possible, let’s take a deeper dive into the available options…

          Ducklings and mother duck - Welsh Harlequin breed.

          One of our momma Welsh Harlequin ducks wondering where she can get more ducklings.

          Continue Reading

          2 Comments

          • Reply
            Darrell Newman
            March 3, 2023 at 12:15 pm

            I have a question: I want a self sustaining flock of ducks. Should I order males and females from different hatcheries to broaden the NDA gene pool, is this important for a healthy flock?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 3, 2023 at 3:34 pm

              Hi Darrell! Great question. Here are my duck breeding suggestions if you want to have a really robust, sustainable flock:
              1. Get all female ducks your first year. That way you can get acclimated to raising ducks without the extra hassle of having a mixed-sex flock. If you have multiple drakes, they’ll start aggressively fighting each other, potentially requiring separate coops/runs. Even if you have only one drake, it will start aggressively mating your females, potentially requiring a separate coop/run.
              2. Don’t even start considering breeding your female ducks until they’ve made it through two laying seasons. You’re likely to have some females with congenital health/reproductive problems and you don’t want to carry those genetics forward. Instead, you only want to breed your healthiest, most robust females. Those individuals will become more evident with time.
              3. In Year 2 or 3, get however many drakes you need based on the total number of females you have, the infrastructure you have in place to support them, and the scale of the breeding program you want to develop. Yes, I’d recommend getting your drakes from a different reputable breeder from your females to reduce the likelihood of inbreeding depression.
              4. Rinse and repeat. Also, you may want to tag and name/number your ducks to keep good records on lineage as you move forward.

          Leave a Reply

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          Gardening

          How to prevent or stop voles from eating your plants

          How to prevent or stop voles from eating your plants thumbnail

          Trying to figure out how to prevent or stop voles from eating the plants in your garden? Read on to learn how!


          Our yard is a half acre edible organic landscape. We use no-till growing methods and top-dress our beds with wood chip mulch.

          These techniques are GREAT for:

          • soil health,
          • plant health, and
          • providing habitat for a wide diversity of wildlife species.

          However, there is one significant downside: we’ve created an ideal habitat for voles. Voles easily tunnel through our soft, rich soil, protected from predators by a thick layer of mulch.

          Beneath the soil surface, there’s an all-a-vole-can-eat food buffet of delicious plant roots. And where their tunnels open to the surface, even more food awaits.

          Continue Reading

          22 Comments

          • Reply
            PH
            September 15, 2024 at 9:16 pm

            Because of our vole infestation, we built a 4 foot high raised bed out of roofing panels. We joined them at the corners with wooden strips; and attached hardware cloth to the bottom. On September 13, I planted daikon radishes and carrots. Because I read that carrots need darkness to germinate, I put some paper feed sacks on top of the carrots. The next day, I noticed a mound of dirt by the edge of the paper sack – but I thought that perhaps I had forgotten to smooth the soil. Today, I lifted up the paper sacks to let them get some air and lo! a mouse or vole ran out, jumped out of the raised bed into an adjacent wheel barrow – jumped out of the wheel barrow and disappeared. Then I saw that she was building a nest: the mounded soil came from a depression she had dug, and it was already lined with shredded paper sacks.
            So they can climb – she must have climbed up the wooden strips we used at the 4 corners to join the metal panels.

            I can see that they will eat all my daikon radishes and my world class carrots unless I can keep them out of that bed. They ate my parsnips…

            What can I do?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 16, 2024 at 12:48 pm

              Ugh, sorry PH! *MOST* vole species are very poor climbers, but not all. I’d be willing to bet that what you saw there is a mouse, not a vole, but it could be one of the species of voles that’s a decent climber. Regardless of what species it is, what matters now is how you can stop the little terrors from eating your plants. I’m wondering if you could install some sort of lip/overhang on the top of your raised bed that would keep them from climbing up and over, similar to the way squirrel baffles keep squirrels from getting to bird feeders?

          • Reply
            Alecia Bradley
            May 31, 2023 at 7:22 pm

            I used to make those wire baskets which was a royal pain, hurt and cut myself regularly, and finally gave up trying to grow. I just need to know if I can purchase some of your wire baskets. They look perfect for my needs but i don’t see anything in this site about buying some. If they are for sale, you should make buying them easier. I am very interested if you’ll tell me how to purchase.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 1, 2023 at 8:06 am

              Hi Alecia! We’re not a producer or manufacturer of wire baskets, we’re just recommending products and methods that we’ve found to work to prevent voles from damaging our plants. The pre-made wire baskets we recommend are made by a company called Vole King, and can be purchased on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/2Mtp9EC. Hope these help you as much as they’ve helped us!

          • Reply
            Kristen
            May 9, 2023 at 3:10 pm

            Hi there,

            Last year, voles ate all of my sunflower seeds once planted and I wasn’t able to grow any. If I follow the above steps, will the sunflower’s roots be able to grow through the hardwire cloth, given that their roots need to grow quite deep?

            Thanks in advance!

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              May 11, 2023 at 11:53 am

              Hi Kristen! Yes, sunflower roots will have no trouble growing through 1/2″ hardware cloth. The roots would also grow fine through Vole King bags. Good luck beating your voles!

          • Reply
            Mary Regoli
            April 29, 2023 at 10:18 am

            How do you firmly attach the hardware cloth to the bottom of the metal raised bed?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              May 1, 2023 at 11:54 am

              Hi Mary! We did not firmly attach the metal hardware cloth to the bottom of our metal raised beds. We just leveled the ground, put the hardware cloth down, then put the metal raised beds on top of the wire. Then we put down some mulch to hide the hardware cloth.

          • Reply
            Marty Rudolph
            March 26, 2023 at 8:28 pm

            This is very helpful information and makes me feel that I am not alone with vole phobia. But they did eat all my grape hyacinths, as well as the regular hyaciths just so you know.

          • Reply
            Maryann McArdle
            September 23, 2022 at 10:44 am

            Some of my clumps of dahlia tubers grow to be fairly large. Can they really fit inside a one gallon bag or do I need to get a larger size? Does the bag inhibit the growth of the tubers?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 23, 2022 at 3:27 pm

              If you don’t plan to pull and divide your dahlia tubers at the end of the growing season, you’re probably better off getting a larger bag. We also eat our dahlia tubers so having them contained to a bag makes that process easier.

          • Reply
            Ross
            August 8, 2022 at 5:26 pm

            I have a question about this: “If you’ve already got raised garden beds and you want to keep voles out, you can dig a 1′ deep trench around the outside and bury hardware cloth in it. Supposedly, voles won’t dig any deeper than a foot.”

            I’m wondering why surrounding the raised beds with hardware cloth would stop the voles? From what I can see in my own garden the voles make holes in different locations in the raised beds and then dive down them and go to work devouring all the roots of my plants, killing them overnight. So I am assuming even if my raised beds were surrounded by hardware cloth this wouldn’t stop them. Why would this work? Am I missing something?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              August 9, 2022 at 11:22 am

              Sorry for any confusion on that point, Ross. We edited that section a bit to make it more clear. It now reads:

              “If you already have raised garden beds and you want to keep voles out, you can do the following:

              1. Dig a 1′ deep trench around the outside and bury hardware cloth in it. Supposedly, voles won’t dig any deeper than a foot. 

              2. If the height of the walls of your bed is less than 2′, you’ll want to add additional framing to the sides of your raised beds to reach 2′ tall in order to prevent voles from climbing or jumping in. 

              Note: If you think there are already voles living under the soil surface in your raised beds, taking the steps above will trap the critters in your beds, which won’t do you much good. In this case, you’d also need to temporarily dig out the existing soil to make sure no voles/nests are present before vole-proofing the beds. 

          • Reply
            Martha
            August 2, 2021 at 2:39 pm

            Hello. My question is regarding raised beds gardens. I have voles which have managed their way into my beds. I used mesh 1/2 but unfortunately they got in. I see and have leaned by my mistakes like: overlapping the mesh because it wasn’t wide enough. Well would you recommend adding mesh around where I “see” the openings now( in order to try and save my onions, carrots and pepper family) ?? Or is it too late?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              August 3, 2021 at 12:34 pm

              Sorry for your troubles, Martha! Voles can drive gardeners absolutely crazy. As you’ve discovered, your mesh wire has to be secured to the underside of your raised bed framing with no gaps or holes – otherwise, voles will find their way in.

              It certainly can’t hurt to try to save this season’s crops by putting additional mesh wire over spots where you see voles coming in. However, it may be impossible to block all of their underground access points without pulling up the entire raised bed frame. Our advise: try to salvage this season’s crops by patching where you can. Then, when it’s time for a season transition and you’re finished with your summer crops, you may want to fully redo the wire mesh underneath your raised bed frames.

              Best of luck preventing future vole damage in your garden!

          • Reply
            Charlotte
            March 24, 2021 at 7:47 pm

            I’m too late to plant using the baskets: I’d planted an almond tree and have found what I believe is a vole hole (all the tulip bulbs I planted have disappeared) at the bottom of the tree going in to the roots. Is there any way I can now save this tree? Do I just fill up the hole and hope for the best? Thank you so much for your help.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 25, 2021 at 10:37 am

              Hi Charlotte! As far as we know, there is no technology to protect an already-planted tree’s roots from vole damage. There is a possibility that you have moles, chipmunks, or some other rodent which are harmless to trees, rather than voles — although your disappearing tulip bulbs suggest otherwise. It’s also possible that with enough other food sources around, the voles won’t damage your almond tree before it’s able to reach an age/size where they can’t do much harm to it. However, if you want to be proactive, one thing you can do is set mouse traps next to the suspected vole hole(s) with a box over it to keep other animals (raccoons, possums, etc) from getting popped. If you keep after them, you can kill the colony. We hate killing wildlife, but: a) voles are not exactly an endangered species, and b) we know very well from experience how much damage voles can do to fruit trees, having lost an apricot, plum, and other trees over the years before utilizing root cages during transplanting. Best of luck and we hope your almond tree makes it!

              • Reply
                Karen Friedman
                August 31, 2022 at 12:37 am

                Hi! I’ve put finely chopped minced garlic that comes in a glass jar and is the “liquidy” kind around the base of established and/or container plants. You do have to refresh but I’ve had some real success. Sometimes I’ll mix with Chile powder.
                I just bought the mesh cages so I’m thrilled to hear they work.
                Once you decide to live as best you can, sharing your yard, Voles are fascinating creatures. They mate for life and are known to have higher amounts of the feel good hormones,(just blanking out on the hormone names), that create love connections than other mammals. While I do have bursts of Vole Venom, Over time they have peaked my curiosity and have just learned to share my yard. I also rather have Voles than mice. My feelings are, “ if not Voles, it will be something else”
                Love the article!

          • Reply
            Atlanta homeowner
            March 13, 2021 at 11:54 pm

            I am sad to say, our Atlanta pine voles were able to chew holes through all our vole king baskets. Save yourself the time, money, and frustration. ..wish I had known beforehand…lots of money wasted 🙁
            I have resorted to making homemade baskets with 1/4” hardware cloth available at big box stores.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 14, 2021 at 10:39 am

              Oh no! I’ll be sure to reach out to the company to let them know about your report. We haven’t lost any plants we’ve put into vole king baskets here in Greenville, SC. We actually used to use the 1/4″ hardware cloth but switched to vole king baskets since they’re easier and faster to work with. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

          • Reply
            Bub's Bees & Blooms
            September 2, 2020 at 9:41 am

            If I’m planting a massive amount of bulbs (around 2,000) would you suggest making my own with hardware cloth to be more cost effective? Or if you think I should still use the vole king cages – what is the largest size I can use with it still being effective?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 2, 2020 at 11:52 am

              Sounds like Vole King baskets might not be the most economical solution in your situation. The other option we mention in this article for vole prevention will likely be best: build raised beds with mesh wiring attached to the bottoms to prevent voles from tunneling in. You could also trench out large in-ground beds and bury hardware cloth, but you run the risk of voles going over the top and in on that large a space. Hope this helps and best of luck!

          Leave a Reply

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          Native Passion Fruit (Passiflora Incarnata): How To Grow, Forage, & Eat How to hatch goose eggs – tips, tricks, and troubleshooting How to hatch duck eggs via a mama duck or incubator Best EDIBLE plants to grow in shade (fruit, herbs & veggies) Understanding duck mating & courtship 9 amazing duck facts that will blow your human mind