Gardening

How to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard

How to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard thumbnail

Trying to figure out how to prevent or safely kill mosquitoes in your yard without using dangerous synthetic chemicals that harm wildlife or people? This article will help!   


How to safely kill mosquitoes without synthetic pesticides and sprays

Do you want to have a safe, healthy, mosquito-free yard and neighborhood? 

We set out to figure out how to make that possible, looking at the best available research. We’ve also put that information to work effectively in our own yard, and have recruited our neighbors to be part of the solution. 

The results? We can walk out in our yard on hot, humid summer mornings and evenings without being covered in mosquitoes like we used to be.  

Want to get the same results? Follow the steps in the flier (below), then print and share them with your neighbors!

The more people in your neighborhood who participate, the better the results will be. After all, mosquitoes don’t recognize property boundaries or your neighbor’s fence. 

Informational flyer

Here’s a quick visualization showing the basic information you need to know and do to safely control the mosquito populations in your yard: 

A helpful flier with the basic information you need to know to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard. Share with your neighbors for even less mosquitoes! Note: Right click the image if you want to save / download it.

A helpful flier with the basic information you need to know to safely kill mosquitoes in your yard. Share with your neighbors for even less mosquitoes! Note: Right click the image if you want to save / download it.

Read the full article below for details, references, and helpful mosquito facts!

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    Robyn
    April 3, 2021 at 8:28 am

    I’ve never heard this before! Does it have to be a 5 gal bucket? Would a 1 gal bucket work? How many buckets for an acre, guessing?

    The catnip article was great too! Where can we get this “Meowee- Wowee” variety? Thanks Aaron.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 3, 2021 at 9:05 am

      Hi Robyn! No, it doesn’t have to be a 5- or 1-gallon bucket of water. You can go much smaller, but you may have to refill if it’s really hot and dry. That’s why we use larger buckets in the summer when we tend to have dry spells – I don’t want to have to remember to go around and refill the buckets. I also assume (perhaps incorrectly) that a larger bucket of water might be more attractive to breeding mosquitoes than a smaller one, and the aim is to make the bT buckets as attractive as possible for female mosquitoes in search of a spot to lay their eggs. As far as how many bT buckets per acre: that’s really hard to answer since each species of mosquito has different flight ranges. When in doubt, consider doing more bT buckets than you think you need, especially if: a) you have bad mosquito problems, and b) you have lots of shady, damp areas where mosquitos are likely to breed or hang out.

      Glad you enjoyed the catnip-mosquito repellent article! (Linked here for anyone else dropping by: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/from-the-scientists-how-to-use-catnip-as-a-mosquito-repellent/). ‘Meowie Wowie’ catnip is the joke name we gave to mom’s plant due to its potency, but as far as I know, it’s not an actual named, commercially available catnip variety. (Perhaps we should start saving seeds from our plants.) We did provide a link in that article where you can buy quality catnip seeds.

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Gardening

We’ve been busy, how about you?

We've been busy, how about you? thumbnail

Hello again! Sorry we haven’t written in a while.

Unlike most of our articles where we share something educational/instructional, this article is simply an apology for our long absence. We’ve got a lot going on right now, so it’s been tough making the time to write good articles here on Tyrant Farms.

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    Gardening

    Garden hygiene: response to a question from Joan Axthelm

    Garden hygiene: response to a question from Joan Axthelm thumbnail

    Joan Axthelm asked us the following question related to garden hygiene:

    You asked for questions to answer in your writings (which I adore) and I know that this will be the first of many to come: With Farm Fresh produce and eggs: what do you look for regarding contaminants and what steps do you take (how..) to make sure your food is safe to eat? I am asking because of all the E. coli in the greens and salmonella on the eggs stories that are out there. How do you insure – in your home – that the foodstuffs you eat from your farm or others are clean and safe to eat?

    Great questions, Joan!

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      Ducks

      Questions answered about our DIY backyard pond

      Questions answered about our DIY backyard pond thumbnail

      Last year, we wrote a DIY backyard pond article that has become quite popular. We built the pond for our backyard ducks, but the concept could be used to build a backyard pond for anyone. In fact, it would be way easier to have a pond without a flock of ducks constantly in it, molting feathers and, er, using it as a giant toilet.

      Our DIY backyard pond on a cold winter day.

      Our DIY backyard pond on a cold winter day. You can get step-by-step instructions which include a detailed materials list here.

      A recent commenter on that article, “smithmal,” asked some great follow-up questions about our backyard pond system. Rather than try to answer all of their questions in the comments, we decided to break out the answers into their own article.

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      36 Comments

      • Reply
        Pond Repair
        June 26, 2025 at 5:19 am

        This is a very detailed and informative pond maintenance blog. I am heartily thankful to young pond owners as it contains much professional consideration for pond repair and maintenance. I also enjoyed your reply to many pond owners’ questions. I recommend a pond coating for pond maintenance and leakage issues here. Pond Pro 2000, available in liquid butyl rubber, can seal all surface types and shapes for decades. It is available in both colors, black and white, as well as in quarts and gallons. It will hold up three times longer than other adhesive tapes and patches. On a smooth surface, it covers 40 sq. ft. per gallon. Three hours after application, the product becomes waterproof. Any leftover material can be stored for up to 5 years. This lifespan is three times longer than other available adhesive tapes and patches. Moreover, it can be applied to all surfaces, including fountains, waterfalls, pools, ponds, and many more. It’s a primer-free, one-coat application system.

      • Reply
        Brigette
        June 8, 2023 at 4:18 pm

        Thank you so much!!!’
        I have two geese and am trying to convince my son to build them a pond. This will be so helpful. Cross your fingers for me!

        • Reply
          Susan von Frank
          June 10, 2023 at 6:49 am

          Fingers crossed – good luck with your goose pond!

      • Reply
        April aka "Duck Mom"
        February 22, 2023 at 8:12 am

        I’m so impressed by all of this…WOW. Any thoughts on a fountain. I’m looking the the Laguna pumps and they make a model w/ a fountain. Would you ever consider this or have any thoughts on if the ducks would like it? Would it help at all with aerating/oxygenating?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          February 22, 2023 at 11:04 am

          Hi and thanks, April! I don’t think the Laguna pump with a fountain was available when we made our pond, but that does sound interesting. Yes, a fountain would help with aeration. However, potential downsides: 1) I’m not sure how much water loss it would cause due to evaporation in the summer. 2) I’m also not sure how sensitive the intake would be to debris (feathers, leaves, etc), which could be a pain if you have to regularly clean it out. Since we haven’t tried this type of pump ourselves, we can’t really provide a recommendation one way or another. If you do give it a try, please report back to let us know how it works!

      • Reply
        Willow
        February 18, 2023 at 10:37 pm

        I have geese, but they sound very similar! I wish I had seen your article last year before we wasted so much money. One issue I didn’t see addressed… our geese managed to nearly chew through the heavy duty pump cord before we caught it in the nick of time. We wanted to add a bubbler to aerate (mosquito problem) but we know they will just eat that and the cord too! We are thinking of placing the pump in a container outside of the pond, connected to a drain at the bottom of the pond. We are hoping that not only will they leave the cord alone, but it may be easier to access for cleaning. Can you see any reason that may not work? Any thoughts on hiding aerators and the attached cords from these precious cord eating creatures?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          February 20, 2023 at 2:22 pm

          Oh no! I’ve forgotten how much geese love to chew through things like cords. That could be a really problem with a hot wire. Yikes! Thankfully, our ducks have no interest in our backyard pond cords, nor would their bite be powerful enough to chew through them.

          Ok, so you’ve got two possible solutions, as you’ve outlined: Option 1) Protect the cords, or Option 2) Reconfigure things to make the cords inaccessible. Thinking about our setup, I’d be nervous doing a drain at the bottom of the pond due to potential clogs and access issues if it were located there. You could build some sort of elevated pond with steps and a platform, but that seems like a lot of extra work. Instead, I’d advise trying to figure out a solution under option 1 wherein you protect the cords from your geese. For instance, you could run thin PVC lines then run the wire inside it (black PVC if you want to hide it or make it more aesthetically pleasing). You wouldn’t need to worry about gluing the joints together so you could quickly take it apart if needed.

          There are probably other solutions, but that’s the first thing that comes to mind. Hope this helps and best of luck!

      • Reply
        H
        August 11, 2021 at 2:43 pm

        This is super helpful! We are in the process of designing a pond, modeled after your instructions. Thank you so much. One quick question – how are the wood chips holding up? Have you found any issues with bumblefoot? Also, do you just rake the woodchips/leaves clean every so often or does the natural ecosystem you have created just kick in? Thank you again for all of your help. Love this!!!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          August 12, 2021 at 1:22 pm

          Our ducks do get bumblefoot on occasion, but: 1) they usually heal on their own without intervention required, and 2) they do a lot of foraging throughout other areas of our yard, so it’s hard to say exactly where the initial cut/scrape happened and/or whether it was caused by mulch. One thing we’ve started doing over the past few years is getting “triple ground” mulch, which is more expensive but very finely chopped. If you walk on it barefoot, it’s quite comfortable, so we assume the same is true for flippered feet.

          As far as how the wood chips/mulch work around our duck pond, the answer is great! They’re almost all carbon and duck poop is high in nitrogen, so the two are well-matched for making rich soil. The mulch does a wonderful job of absorbing duck poo, so there’s never any foul (or fowl) smells around our pond. It also keeps the area from getting muddy and mucky, which drastically reduces the likelihood of parasites and pathogens.

          About once per year (usually in the early spring), we apply a new 3-6″ layer of triple ground mulch to the area, and that breaks down into perfect garden-quality soil by the following spring, e.g. it lasts about one year. As the mulch decomposes, the volume decreases substantially so you can just top up with new mulch without it spilling over into your pool if you want to. However, we like to dig out that soil and use it like compost around our fruit and nut trees, garden beds, etc.

          Hope this helps!

      • Reply
        Kerensa
        July 21, 2021 at 6:06 pm

        Wonderful information!! Do you ever have an issue with algae? We are battling a bloom in our lined pond and curious what you use to combat green algae that is safe for ducks. Thanks!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          July 23, 2021 at 7:16 am

          Hi Kerensa! High nitrogen and nutrient levels (caused by duck poo) cause algae blooms, which makes the water turn green. The cold and warm water/weather beneficial aquatic/pond bacteria solutions mentioned and linked in this article go a long way towards keeping algae blooms from happening. They can also help to put an end to an algae bloom that’s in process. The one you’d want to use this time of year is Eco Labs 971047 10PLG4 Microbe Lift PL Bacteria – https://amzn.to/2HqDWJh. Start there since it’s the easiest solution and you should see results within 10-14 days. If you still have a problem, you may need to do a good pond cleaning, especially cleaning out the filter pond and pads (then inoculating with pond bacteria after cleaning). Hope this helps and let us know if you have any questions – and how the Microbe Lift pond bacteria worked for you if you use it!

      • Reply
        Sylvia
        June 30, 2021 at 10:43 pm

        Thanks for your answer Aaron
        Well I am in a rather colder climate: southern New Hampshire, zone 5a, so I sure would be using the de-icer for more than a couple of weeks per winter, lol!!!
        I’m also wondering if we could use something else than plastic tarp, plastic sheets, plastic everything, after all nowadays we know that an “all plastic” approach is not the best… even if for some things we don’t have a choice (like plumbing)
        Would it be possible to use very heavy clayish soil to line the pond? does this exist? or would it be too expensive? would you have any ideas?
        Just a thought… (I try to be as eco-conscious as possible)

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          July 1, 2021 at 7:22 am

          I believe it is possible to use different methods to at least partially seal your pond floor and walls without using EPDM rubber liner. Some natural ponds use heavy machinery (or lots of manual labor) to severely tamp down the soil, compacting it to the point that it acts almost like concrete. That’s a heck of a lot of work, but perhaps something you’d want to consider. There are potential downsides to that method, however. One: there’s inevitably going to be slow, steady water loss. Over years, those losses are likely going to be considerable. Two: if there are ducks in the pond, that means there’s going to be lots of duck waste in the pond. The Skippy biofilter + beneficial pond bacteria can go a long way towards remediating those biosolids. During annual cleanings, you can also remove the excess and put it in compost, around fruit and nut trees, etc. However, without a pond filter in place in your pond, there is likely to also be a slow, steady stream of pollution (nitrogen, phosphorus, etc + fecal bacteria) leaching into the subsoil and nearby waterways. All this to say there’s not a perfect solution here when it comes to ecological considerations, only tradeoffs.

      • Reply
        Miranda
        June 18, 2021 at 10:15 am

        Love the step by step and am in the process of mapping out our pond installation. We have 8 ducks and will assume to have more in the future as I’m pretty sure we have a few drakes in the mix (they’re only a few weeks old right now so hard to tell)
        Pond is going to be a slightly larger scale (6′ x 16′ and 3-3.5′ deep at bottom level) and between 1800-2000 gallons.
        I have a couple questions
        1) did you decide to flow your 2 filters into each other due to space or function? We’re mapping out spacing and are considering having 2 larger scale filter set ups but with 2 independent waterfalls instead of flowing into each other , wondering if this will reduce the effectiveness of the filtering or if yours was just set up this way due to space?
        2) I noted you have fish and sorry if I missed it, wondering what breed of fish you have along with your ducks, we’ve read Tilapia can work well with ducks along with carp and other bottom feeders but hoping for more insight into what will work, we’d like to add some fish especially since our pond will be deeper and we’re in Canada with colder winters so water movement will help.
        3) Do you or have you considered adding anything else to assist with natural cleansing of the pond (i.e. aquatic plants, mussels, tadpoles etc)?
        4) How does your surrounding area hold up to the water etc, you stated you use mulch, just wondering how much water is retained there, do the ducks pick at it etc. Our pond will be in an enclosed large run that is shared with our chickens and guineas so want to keep muck to a minimum (i know famous last words with ducks) so we’re considering a flagstone/gravel surround or gravel only etc

        Thanks and thanks for the great post!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          June 18, 2021 at 11:58 am

          Hi Miranda! Glad our DIY pond guide was helpful for you. Answers to your questions below:

          1. For clarity and for the sake of anyone else reading, each of our filter ponds has its own pump. The second filter has a slightly smaller Laguna pump and we’re currently using lava rock and gravel + pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) in that pond. The primary filter pond has the Matala filters in it. Frankly, the Matala filter pond works far better and we’ll eventually use those filters in the secondary pond. We have to fence our ducks out of the filter ponds because: 1) they’re ducks and want to get into anything and everything, and 2) they LOVE eating the pickerelweed. Although using pickerelweed is a good way to close the loop by recycling duck “nutrients” and cleaning the pond, the roots grow all the way down into the piping, eventually causing the pump to back up and cut off. 

          Filtered water from our second filter pond flows down via waterfall to our primary filter pond which then goes back into the main pond via two waterfalls. The second filter pond was not something we planned for at first, so our final setup was more a matter of using existing infrastructure, rocks, and materials we already had, rather than buying a bunch of new stuff. When we built our original pond, we also didn’t have Matala filters. If we had had Matala filters, our system may have worked perfectly fine as-is without need for a secondary pond to assist in filtering out solids. Bottom line: there’s no single *right* way to design your filter pond(s) and waterfalls. Keep it as simple as possible to start with and modify/iterate as you get feedback from experience.  

          2. We went to Petco and got about 10 small feeder fish for $0.50/each, species unknown. We put them in the duck pond and the ducks promptly ate all of them – or so we thought. A few of them made it and grew larger over the course of 5 years. Unfortunately, I managed to accidentally kill all our fish this year during our first pond cleanout in two years. I was in a super-rush while our toddler was napping. The municipal water I refilled the pond with had enough chlorine to kill the fish. I should have gotten potassium metabisulfite tablets to remove the chlorine. 

          We’re NOT fish experts, as you may have ascertained. However, I’m pretty sure tilapia would be a challenge in Canada since they need warm water. Carp might be a better fit from a cold standpoint, but they get huge and need vegetation in their diet. You’d need a fish species that eats waste, not plant material, and could survive cold winters. Not sure what that would be and/or whether it would produce as much waste/nitrogen/pollution as it removes from your pond system. My guess is that you’d be better off with more filter pond and no fish, if your primary aim is better water quality.     

          3. Ducks will eat and/or destroy pretty much any plant you put in their pond that they have access to. One semi-exception we’ve found so far is a yellow flag iris, that’s considered an invasive species. We grow it in pots in the pond – they rip it a bit, but apparently don’t like the flavor and thus leave it pretty well alone. Alternative: you can use fencing around your filter pond and put plants like pickerelweed in. If the pond is in a covered run, those plants probably won’t get enough light. As mentioned earlier, their roots can also cause plumbing clogs as they mature. Perhaps you could also plumb your filter pond to be outside of your duck run, in which case you could grow whatever plants you like, so long as their roots didn’t clog your pump.  
          Something we found interesting: all the unexpected wildlife that showed up in our pond: dragonflies and dragonfly larvae, frogs and tadpoles (which our ducks eat), mayfly larvae, aquatic snails, aquatic worms (cleaners, not parasites), and more. We even had a small snapping turtle show up somehow, despite the whole area being fenced (our ducks allerted us to the intruder). These critters probably do a ton of work keeping our duck pond water quality in check, but we haven’t been intentional in introducing them or managing them.   

          4. The only water that escapes our pond is when: a) we have really heavy rains that cause an overflow, or b) our ducks break through our filter pond defenses, muck things up, and cause our waterfall to overflow out of the side. When our ducks jump out of the pond, there’s a small amount of water that comes out on them and their feathers, but not enough to impact the pond level. Our back yard and pond area gets a top up of triple ground mulch at least once per year. All this to say that the area around their pond is not at all mucky. If you put your pond in their run, you’ll want to use something heavier like mulch or pebbles (not pine shavings or anything light) to prevent your ducks from getting too much stuff in their pond that could clog your filters. Or I suppose you could build your pond more elevated above ground level to prevent that type of bedding from getting in your pond. We like triple ground mulch because it’s carbon-rich and helps absorb and lock up the nitrogen-rich waste, eventually decomposing into soil which feeds all the perennial fruiting plants in the yard (peaches, persimmons, thornless caneberries, etc). 

          Hope this info helps and best of luck on building your pond!

      • Reply
        Sylvia
        June 14, 2021 at 7:43 pm

        This is really impressive and very beautiful! It makes me dream about building one too
        You stated the building budget is between one or two thousand dollars, I find it rather reasonable
        But I’m curious how much are the running costs, after all the pumps work with electric power, as well as the de-icer in winter (1250 watts, gasp!!!)
        Plus of course maintenance or replacement of all these devices if/when they stop working
        How much can we expect to pay per year? maybe it was in one of your answers but I couldn’t read all of them
        Thanks!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          June 15, 2021 at 1:28 pm

          Hi Sylvia! Great question. I wish we could tell you the exact energy costs of the pond pump, but we just don’t know. I can say that Laguna pumps are known as the most energy efficient pumps on the market (they utilize Watts energy saving technology), and we didn’t notice any appreciable difference in our overall energy costs after installing our pond.

          As for the pond de-icer, that’s only something we use occasionally during REALLY cold snaps where the pond freezes over. Since we live in a mild climate (Zone 7b), that might mean we use a de-icer for a few weeks each year. This past winter, we didn’t have to use our pond de-icer at all, so $0 energy costs! There *may* be better, more energy-efficient pond de-icing technologies out there that we don’t know about.

          We did have to replace one of our Laguna pumps after 5 years, but that was due to my negligence, not normal wear and tear on the pump. During the fall, we have a large oak that dumps huge quantities of leaves into the pond. I’m normally good about cleaning them out once a week or so when they’re falling (plus cleaning the pump whenever the flow decreases), but I got lazy one year and we suffered the consequences with a burned out pump. (Molting ducks didn’t help.)

          It’s super easy to turn off and clean out a Laguna pond pump, as you can see here in this video/article (takes about 5 minutes for a bad clog): https://www.tyrantfarms.com/video-how-to-clean-a-laguna-max-flo-pump-in-your-backyard-pond/. Hope this info helps and feel free to ask any other questions you have.

          • Reply
            Mark
            February 28, 2025 at 1:44 pm

            Hi Aaron. Very interesting discussion. I have a few questions. First, What is your average water depth, and why did you choose that depth? Second, Is it reasonable to use a solar panel and battery to power the pumps? Third, Can duck poo naturally seal a pond over time? Fourth, could square hay bales be used for filter media? Fifth, could Portland cement be mixed with soil and used to seal a pond? Seventh, could a check valve serve to prevent back-flow rather than a ball valve? Thanks!

            • Aaron von Frank
              March 3, 2025 at 2:20 pm

              1. What is your average water depth, and why did you choose that depth? 

              The pond is about 3′ deep at the deepest point where the pump is, but there are tiers to the pond, so the height varies somewhat across the pond. The deeper and wider the pond, the more materials you’ll need, so we struck a nice balance between our needs based on size of yard/space, number of ducks, and what was economical.  

              The pond depth should allow your ducks room to dabble, dive, splash, and mate.  

              2. Is it reasonable to use a solar panel and battery to power the pumps? 

              Depending on where you live, maybe so. On cloudy freezing winter days, we’d be nervous about our pumps losing power. Financially, you’d also need to consider the upfront costs of a solar/battery system relative to annual costs of running off of your existing electrical system to determine which option makes sense – assuming you put your pond in a spot where you can tap into the grid or plug into an existing outlet.
              We’d place more value on continuity of power than not having to pay for ongoing electric costs.  

              3. Can duck poo naturally seal a pond over time? 

              Don’t know enough about this to give an even partially definitive answer. Best guess is not in any reasonable period of time, especially considering the sides of the pool where duck poo won’t aggregate because of gravity. 

              4. Could square hay bales be used for filter media? 

              Might be worth a shot but hay bales are so densely packed that I’m not sure they’d actually do much filtering relative to fabricated pond filter media. Secondary concern is that once the hay bale saturates and expands, you’ll end up with broken pipes and/or an overflowing filter pond.  

              5. Could Portland cement be mixed with soil and used to seal a pond? 

              Theoretically, yes, but there are caveats. The exact ratio of Portland cement-to-soil you’d need is a big wild card given variability in soil type – assuming mixing in another media would be feasible in the first place. Plus, Portland cement isn’t waterproof, so you’d have to use a sealant regardless. A pond liner seems like a more sure-fire, economical, and less laborious way to create a leak-proof pond. 

              6. Could a check valve serve to prevent back-flow rather than a ball valve? 

              Yes, but I’d still rather use a ball valve because sometimes we WANT the backflow between the filter ponds and the main pond. Good example: sometimes, the pond will get a minor clog where the water flow is diminished. By unplugging the pump for about 30 seconds and reversing the waterflow, the pump will unclog itself so I don’t have to get into the pond and do a full pump cleaning. 30 seconds vs 15 minutes. And it’s no fun doing a full pump cleaning on a freezing cold day. 

              Hope this info helps!

      • Reply
        Nicole
        May 3, 2021 at 12:12 pm

        Do you ever have problems with algae in your pond? We just built our pond modeled after yours and used the bacteria you recommended. It’s been a few weeks and after a few hot, sunny days, the pond is green with algae. I don’t know if the bacteria haven’t had enough time to take care of the problem or if we need to add other things to get rid of the algae?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          May 4, 2021 at 7:44 am

          Hi Nicole! It would be really strange for water straight from the tap to already have an algae bloom. That usually requires a good bit of nitrogen and/or other nutrient buildup. We just did our “annual” cleaning on our pond yesterday where we completely clean out the filter ponds, filter pads, clean leaves and debris off the bottom, and do a water changeout. I put “annual” in quotations because we actually haven’t done it in two years due to having a baby last year and just not having any time to spare. Our pond water was starting to have an algae bloom and the water was turning green with the nutrient buildup and onset of hot weather (it’s in the 80s here now).

          How many ducks do you have in your pond? Regardless, it’s possible that either:
          a) the chemical compounds in your municipal water killed the bacteria you put in your pond, or
          b) the bacteria just hasn’t had time to fully establish and start working.

          The bacteria kicking in is not an instant thing; it seems like it takes a week or so before you start seeing a noticeable difference in water quality. Recommendation: wait another week and if your pond water hasn’t started to clear up, add another round of pond bacteria. By that point, the bacteria-killing compounds in the municipal water will have long since dissipated or degraded, and you’ll have given the first round of bacteria ample time to start working. So whether it’s problem a or b, you’ll have your bases covered.

          Hope this helps and please check back in to let us know how things turn out!

      • Reply
        Melissa
        April 10, 2021 at 7:24 am

        Hello, thank you so much for sharing this information. I plan to follow these instructions to build a pond for my 3 ducks this summer. Do you think a 100 gallon bio filter would accomplish what your 2 50 gallon filters do? We don’t have the space for 2 bio filters. Thank you!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          April 10, 2021 at 9:10 am

          Hi Melissa! Yes, you should be fine with a total of 100 gallons of filter pond. Actually, you should be more than fine given that you’ll only have 3 ducks using the pond, but it’s always better to have more capacity than you need because you never know how many ducks you’ll have in the future. Best of luck with your pond and let us know if you have questions as you get going!

      • Reply
        Edward Blank
        March 24, 2021 at 4:12 pm

        Thank you for your detailed instructions…could you tell me how many layers of the Filter media/pads: Matala Filter Media Pads – (Green) and Matala Filter Media Pads – (Grey). did you use?

        Pastor Ed

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          March 24, 2021 at 5:27 pm

          Hi Ed! Not sure the exact number of layers but we only used two total pads (they’re large). We started by cutting out a form from each color (green and grey) that fit snuggly into our filter pond – so two deep there. The remaining pad material was then cut into smaller pieces, which were stacked. Guesstimate is that the total combined thickness of layers is somewhere in the ~8-12″ range.

      • Reply
        Brian LeDonne
        January 16, 2021 at 9:14 am

        Question – when the water rises in the pond bog filter and looks like it pours out/over and creates the waterfall…Can you please explain how the water is directed down the waterfall into the main pond?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          January 16, 2021 at 12:02 pm

          Hi Brian! We cut a rectangular section out of the filter pond lip, and use use pond glue + piece of pond liner to created an overhang so the water pours out of the filter pond and over the rock below it, which is where the waterfall begins. Please let us know if you have any other questions, and best of luck!

      • Reply
        Melissa
        November 12, 2020 at 2:11 pm

        I have a flock of 16 ducks, so almost 3x your flock size. Does that mean I need to triple my pond in order to keep the ecosystem & biofilters working properly?

        I need to build something quickly because although I have a couple kiddie pools (which they enjoy), the ducks inevitably end up in my person swimming pool, which is about to cause a divorce. LOL. (Note: we also have a 1 acre fish pond, about 1000 feet away, but the ducks are scared of it) Thanks for your help!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          November 13, 2020 at 11:18 am

          Hi Melissa! You’ll probably be fine building a 2x larger pond, but if you have the space and resources, it certainly can’t hurt to go larger. Funny that your ducks are afraid of your actual pond! We once brought our beloved pet duck, Svetlana, to the family lake house and she was absolutely terrified of the giant lake. Perhaps it was the size and all the other wildlife present. Maybe that’s how a hunter-gather human would react if you dropped them in the middle of New York City. Who’s to know the mind of a duck. One thing to be mindful of is the potential for snapping turtles to come out of your real pond and take up residence in your artificial pond. Even though we have a 6′ fence all around our backyard, a small snapper somehow got in and decided our duck pond would be its new home. Our ducks stopped using the pond for a few days and would stand next to it looking in and honking – that’s the only way we knew there was a snapping turtle there since it blended in so well. We caught the bugger in a net and re-homed it a few miles away in a swamp. Anyway, good luck mending your marriage while accommodating the needs of your ducks. 😛

      • Reply
        Julie
        September 27, 2020 at 10:23 pm

        Hi! My husband and I rescued a duck with a broken leg and a friend for him then due to the touch and go situation got two more friends just in case. Thank God for your site! Also thank you 🙂 question, we just built a pond but since we live in NE Ohio we will be getting lots of snow and below freezing days. How do you keep your pond from freezing? Thanks!!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          September 29, 2020 at 3:20 pm

          Hi Julie! Sounds like you’ve taken on quite a project! Ducks + pond in NE Ohio. We’re in a temperate/mild climate region down here in Upstate South Carolina. The coldest temps we ever get are single digits, but we do get frequent sub-freezing day and night temps throughout the cold months. We keep our pond from icing over two ways:
          1) Moving water – Water running through the pipes will not freeze unless it gets REALLY cold. Our pipes didn’t freeze when it hit 5F. We have two waterfalls in our system, and that also helps keep the water surface from freezing.
          2) Mentioned in our “how to build a pond” article, but we have a pond de-icer we use during cold spells that does the rest of the work for us. Here’s the Amazon link in case that’s something you want to get: https://amzn.to/2Ghzotl. The de-icer might not be effective at keeping the surface ice-free in your cold climate, but it will at least keep an opening in the ice to allow gasses to escape the water which will preserve water quality throughout the winter.

          There may be some sort of pond heater you could get but we’d be stepping outside of our knowledge/experience zone in recommending anything in that department. Regardless, best of luck to you and your new duck family!

      • Reply
        Linda Weaving
        August 4, 2020 at 8:59 pm

        Have you considered a reed bed system and could such a system work instead of or in addition to the skippy pond? My garden is very ornamental and I wouldn’t want to have the pipes visible. I also plan for a 1metre waterfall, so would that do the job of your two waterfalls? Could the pond size be scaled down? What would be the volume you’d recommend for a couple of miniature ducks?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          August 11, 2020 at 3:41 pm

          Hi Linda! Responses to your questions:

          1. You could use a reed bed system, but a) it would likely require a lot more room than a skippy biofilter system, and b) you’d have to fence it off or somehow keep your ducks out. Ducks will eat or destroy pretty much any plant you put in the water with them. The only plant we’ve managed to grow in the pond with our ducks is a marsh iris inside a pot with rocks to keep them from pulling out the bulbs.

          2. You could very easily cover/obscure your pipes with rocks, pond liner, plants, etc. We didn’t do a great job with that.

          3. The waterfalls are more for aerating/oxygenating the water than cleaning, although they do do a bit of cleaning. A 1 meter waterfall should be fine and you could scale down the overall size of the pond and still be fine there as well. There’s no hard-and-fast rule on square feet of pond per duck, but we’d recommend going as large as you’re able. Two miniature ducks don’t need a huge pond (you could do half our size or smaller), but they’ll be happier with more water and the water quality will be easier to maintain. Hope this helps!

      • Reply
        Renee
        January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

        Just wondering if there’s a reason you have the 2nd filter fall into the first? Or can I just put the 2nd filter in a different area and make my 2nd waterfall that way.
        Thanks for all this. I can’t wait just getting started.

      • Reply
        Rodrigo Pellegrini
        January 17, 2019 at 2:44 pm

        This is amazing, i’m a duck evangelist as well and i will follow your guidance and try to build a pond myself.

      • Reply
        smithmal
        April 24, 2018 at 12:53 am

        Wow!!! Thank you very much for answering all of my questions so thoroughly. I really appreciate it. Glad to hear that your system has been up and running for three years. I think that is a good enough time period to be able to provide a realistic review of your system. Most videos/blogs I’ve seen/read provide feedback right after a pond has been built rather than waiting/returning after a couple seasons which I think provide a much more realistic overview of a working system.

        I’m definitely interested in putting in a system like this. The only thing that I’m still exploring is whether to use a submersible pump or an external pump. I’m thinking about maybe using an external pump as it would be easier to access for cleaning and provide a longer working life since as it would have to deal with pumping water with as much biomass since the water could be pre-filtered before entering the pump. They are however more expensive.

        Thanks for listing all the microbes you use with your skippy filter. I’m a little confused about when and how you introduce each variety of bacteria to your biofilter. Could you expand on this?

        In terms of pumping out the water in your biofilters, have you thought about building a drum reservior with a spigot and attaching a dry vac to it? I use this type of system for collecting the rinse when cleaning duck sand and then adding the rinse to my fruit trees. I think it would work great in your system as well (see vid here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCjFh8I4rPU&t=2s

        Whenever you get the time, a video of your system providing an design overview and maintenance would be much appreciated.

        Thanks again!

        smithmal .

      Leave a Reply

      Gardening

      Container Gardening Questions Answered!

      Container Gardening Questions Answered! thumbnail

      Recently, someone messaged us with lots of container gardening questions. This got us thinking about two things, neither of which are directly related to their questions:

      1. We’d do a lot more article writing if people asked us questions that we could answer publicly (like a ‘Dear Abby’ for gardening advice!); and
      2. We want you, yes you, to ask us any gardening questions you have so we can write about them while answering your questions! Chances are, other people have the same questions, so you’d be helping us help them too!

      Without sharing the entirety of the container gardening questions we received, here’s a general summary:

      • What exactly is a container garden?
      • Why do people do container gardening – e.g. are there any benefits?
      • What types of plants should be used in container gardening and do we have any other tips/advice we could share about indoor and outdoor container gardening?

      Continue Reading

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        Leave a Reply

        Foraged Gardening

        Yes, wisteria flowers are edible and they make delicious drinks

        Yes, wisteria flowers are edible and they make delicious drinks thumbnail

        Wisteria flowers are edible and you can use them to make some seriously tasty fermented beverages!


        We’ve previously mentioned wisteria flowers in our article Three of Our Favorite Wild Edible Flowers of Spring. Wisteria flowers are one of the earliest edible flowers out this time of year, along with violas, dandelions, and redbuds.

        One thing that really stands out about wisteria is that it’s so dang abundant. If you find a spot where the flower clusters are relatively low to the ground, you can pick a bucket of wisteria flowers in a matter of minutes. And that’s just what The Tyrant and I did a couple of weeks ago.

        Turning edible flowers into liquid heaven

        We often enjoy having an aperitif or digestif consisting of a small glass of sparkling homemade cordial made from fermented fruit or flowers we grew or foraged. We also give bottles of our ferments away as gifts to friends and family.

        A favorite that our parents look forward to receiving every summer is sparkling elderflower cordial made from the mounds of elderflowers we pick off our elderberry trees in late spring. (Yes, we still leave plenty of flowers for our plants to produce berries.)

        Sparkling wisteria flower cordial

        Sparkling wisteria flower cordial. It's interesting to note that the pigments that the fermentation process pulls out from the flowers are bright pink, not purple. Perhaps a chemist could explain this coloration?

        A glass of sparkling wisteria flower cordial. It’s interesting to note that the pigments that the fermentation process pulls out from the flowers are bright pink, not purple. Perhaps if we were more knowledgable in chemistry we could explain this coloration difference…

        Making sparkling flower cordials is a simple and perfectly safe process. It harnesses the power of native yeasts on the flowers and the beneficial bacteria cultivated during fermentation (similar to wine and beer making, but much easier). If you want to get good at fermenting, we highly recommend Sandor Katz’ book The Art of Fermentation.

        For pretty much any nectar-rich edible flowers, you can use the basic recipe outlined in our how to make sparkling elderflower cordial article to create a delicious sparkling cordial. So far, we’ve used that recipe to make ferments with pansies, violas, dandelions, wisteria, redbuds, honeysuckle, and mimosa flowers.

        Sparkling wisteria flower cordial ingredients (using natural yeasts): 

        • Wisteria Flowers
        • Sugar
        • Citric Acid or Lemon Juice
        • Water

        Fermentation and flavoring notes:

        As you’re fermenting, if you note that your flower concoction isn’t as sweet as you’d like, simply add a bit more sugar or honey. If it’s not tangy enough, simply add more lemon juice or citric acid.

        Once you get the hang of the basics, you can also add ingredients like mint, hyssop, and other herbs to your ferments for more complexity and nuance.

        Vigorously stir your fermented flower concoction twice a day for 2-3 weeks, and the end result is a naturally bubbly, deliciously unique creation that you’d never find at a store or restaurant. Like all ferments, it will also contain lots of beneficial microbes to help charge up your digestive system, e.g. it’s a probiotic!

        Sparkling viola flower cordial fermenting on the left and sparkling wisteria flower cordial fermenting on the right. The colors of both beverages is almost identical.

        Sparkling viola flower cordial fermenting (left) and sparkling wisteria flower cordial fermenting (right). The colors of both beverages is almost identical.

        Tasting, sharing, straining, and bottling

        With my mom currently in town for a visit, she noticed a large open glass container covered with a linen towel and full of a purple liquid with a mass of flowers floating on top. “What are you making?” she asked. “Sparkling wisteria cordial,” I replied. “Want to try it?”

        Even though she is an amazing gardener and forager, she didn’t realize that wisteria flowers are edible. She was positively delighted by the news given the abundance of the flowers she has access to at her home.

        She was even more delighted by the glass of wisteria flower cordial she got to sample, and will be taking a jar of the magical concoction home with her.

        Once strained to remove flowers and other plant debris, we pour our ferments into Grolsch pop-top bottles and put them in the fridge, which arrests fermentation by slowing microbial activity.

        One other thing we recommend if you make ferments: always use glass, not plastic containers during fermentation or storage. Given the microbial activity and acidity of the concoctions, you don’t want to risk the chemicals in plastic leaching into your ferments even if the containers are labelled “food safe.”

        Bottles of finished sparkling wisteria flower cordial that we store in the fridge.

        Bottles of finished sparkling wisteria flower cordial that we store in the fridge.

        How do plain wisteria flowers taste by themselves?

        Plain wisteria flowers taste like slightly sweet lettuce, with hints of bitter grape and peas (wisteria is in the legume family, after all). You can also eat wisteria flowers raw in a salad or use them as a colorful garnish.

        How does sparkling wisteria flower cordial taste?

        Sparkling wisteria flower cordial tastes dang near magical and way better than the flowers taste by themselves. The cordial tastes distinctly like the flowers smell, but amplified by several orders of magnitude and featuring a delightful effervescence from the fermentation process, hence the “sparkling” part of the name.

        Warning: Wisteria flowers are edible, the rest of the plant is poisonous

        A note of warning: even though wisteria flowers are edible, wisteria  pods and the rest of the plant are in fact poisonous.

        This is a good reminder that you should always make sure you know with 100% certainty what a plant is, which parts are edible or inedible (and when they’re edible), BEFORE you eat them. There are plenty of wild plants and fungi that can kill you or make you wish you were dead, so practice responsible foraging by not taking unnecessary risks.

        Over time, you’ll become a pro, and be able to look forward to the new wild and cultivated treats that each new season brings, such as edible wisteria flowers!

        How to make Wisteria flower cordial - a delicious and naturally fermented drink! #fermented #cordial #wisteria #eattheweeds #tyrantfarms

        We hope you enjoy a glass of sparkling wisteria flower cordial! Please raise a glass in honor of The Tyrant.

        KIGI,

        Aaron & Susan

        24 Comments

        • Reply
          Amanda Price
          July 4, 2025 at 1:50 am

          Wisteria flowers are POISONOUS. Why would you ever publish this article?!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 6, 2025 at 3:09 pm

            Wisteria FLOWERS are edible. All other parts of the plant are poisonous, as we state in the article.

        • Reply
          Dawn
          April 4, 2025 at 8:31 am

          Hi, I am on day 3 and there are no bubbles present. Does this mean it is not working? Also, if that is the case, can I boil this, strain the flowers and make a syrup with it? Also, everything I read, half say wisteria flowers are safe, and half say the entire wisteria plant is toxic. I made a batch of jelly and just feeling nervous. Thankful for any input!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 4, 2025 at 11:13 am

            Hi Dawn! You *should* have started to see some bubbly fermentation activity by Day 3, assuming you followed the wisteria recipe ingredient ratios in the article. It’s possible that your municipal water has higher levels of antimicrobial additives which might impede fermentation. Before giving up, maybe give it one more day and then add a bit more sugar if fermentation hasn’t started. Yes, you can always make a cooked syrup out of the flowers, but the fermented wisteria cordial is much better, in our opinion. And it has the added benefit of being a probiotic.

            Wisteria flowers are edible. However, all other parts of the plant should be considered poisonous. Some people may be allergic (there are people who are allergic to nearly anything), so perhaps eat a few raw flowers first before going all in. Also, fermentation can often break down otherwise toxic compounds in food, so that’s another benefit of making a fermented cordial.

            Hope this helps and good luck!

        • Reply
          Zoée
          June 10, 2022 at 7:19 am

          Hello! I made two batches of this and it’s the 4th day so far. One batch is definitely fermenting and starting to become bubbly (all flowers float to top and make an air lock type of thing until I stir again) but the other batch, the flowers are just floating around and not going up to the top for some reason….. any ideas? I’m thinking maybe that batch didn’t have very much natural yeast left since i harvested a bit late? How long should I try before giving up on that batch?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            June 10, 2022 at 10:48 am

            Hm, there should still be plenty of native yeast in/on the wisteria flowers even if they are a bit past prime. Are you certain you put equal amounts of sugar in both batches? Sugar is basically the fuel for the microbial fire in this type of fermentation, so you may need to increase sugar levels in your second batch to give things a boost.

        • Reply
          Talitha K.M
          July 19, 2021 at 5:32 pm

          is it possible you can make tea out of wisteria flowers?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            July 19, 2021 at 11:18 pm

            Sure, wisteria flowers would make a fine tea. Remove the flowers from the cup after they’ve steeped for a few minutes so they don’t impart a vegetal taste. Also, be certain only to use the flowers – that’s the only edible part of the plant.

        • Reply
          Jeanetta
          March 15, 2021 at 2:11 pm

          Is this an alcoholic beverage? Also, do I need to pull the flowers off of the stem, or can I put the whole branch in? Thank you!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            March 16, 2021 at 1:22 pm

            It’s very mildly alcoholic, like vinegar. We’ve never done an official reading on these types of ferments, but our guess is that it’s probably in the *1-2% ABV range. The longer you let it ferment, the higher the alcohol content but fermented flower cordials like this really don’t need to go for more than two weeks to reach peak flavor. After that, they can start to take on off flavors. (*For reference, non-alcoholic beers can have up to 0.5% ABV.)

            Also, you do want to remove the flowers from the stems on wisteria since other parts of the plant are poisonous.

        • Reply
          Rana Ganter
          October 4, 2020 at 7:28 am

          Wheres the method or recipe?

        • Reply
          vanessa driveness
          May 23, 2020 at 2:51 am

          The colour change is due to the lemon juice. You’re changing the pH balance. Similar to butterfly pea flower tea.

        • Reply
          Kay Allen
          April 16, 2020 at 1:30 am

          Since you can make a somewhat sweet drink/tea from the flowers do you think it would be possible to pour boiling water over the flowers and steep for several hours, draining out flowers and using tea to make jelly. I make red bud blooms, wild violet, hibiscus, forsythia and queen anne’s lace jelly in this manner. Would be good to utilize wisteria in the same way. Thanks

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 17, 2020 at 2:26 pm

            Yes, you can make wisteria jelly using the method you describe. We’ve never made it, but it should be delightful. Trick will be in knowing when you’ve removed an adequate amount of color and flavor and straining the flowers out BEFORE it potentially takes on a vegetal flavor. If you’ve got experience with this on other flowers, you probably won’t have trouble with wisteria. Best of luck and please check back to let us know what you think of your wisteria jelly.

        • Reply
          Brooke Golightly
          April 3, 2020 at 11:26 pm

          I’m confused as to timing. The elderflower piece says 5-7 days then refrigerate, this says 2-3 weeks. I think 2-3 weeks would surely result in mold at room temperature?

          • Reply
            Miko
            April 4, 2020 at 1:08 pm

            I made this and bottled/refrigerated it after 7 or 8 days. It was definitely fizzy and yeasty at that point. By itself, it’s too sweet for me, but with extra lemon juice and a splash of sparkling water (or vodka) it’s quite nice.

            • Reply
              Brooke Golightly
              April 4, 2020 at 1:37 pm

              Awesome, thank you! How could you tell it was fizzy and yeasty? Just curious because I bottled up the first batch last night and haven’t opened them back up yet.

              • Miko
                April 5, 2020 at 1:02 pm

                I could tell it was getting fizzy by about the 3rd of 4th day because it would foam up and make a carbonated sound when I stirred it. After bottling and refrigerating it, it continued to build up carbonation so it makes a slight champagne popping sound when I open the bottle. Note that it’s not going to be as fizzy as a commercial soda or anything. I left a bit out in a bottle overnight accidentally and a definite beer/yeast smell was detectable.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 5, 2020 at 1:53 pm

            Sorry for any confusion, Brooke. The fermentation duration isn’t the same on each flower recipe. Duration can depend on everything from room temperature, the specific species of native yeasts and bacteria living on the flowers (some are vigorous/robust than others), and your personal preferences.

            If you’re stirring the mix vigorously twice per day, you won’t get any mold. The worst case is you’ll start to get off flavors. Sometimes, a batch can go from absolutely perfect to funky in a matter of 24-48 hours, which is why we recommend tasting a teaspoon or so each time you stir. That way, you start to develop an intuition about each type of flower fermentation you’re making and arrest fermentation (via straining, bottling, and refrigeration) as soon as it’s within your ideal flavor and bubbly range.

            Hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!

        • Reply
          didem anık
          May 3, 2019 at 7:45 am

          hi Aaron! I’ve tried making a wisteria cordial but on the third day I stopped stirring for two days and now I see small flies inside the jar, some are floating among wisteria flowers. do you think i should throw it and start over ? Or can i use it somehow?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            May 3, 2019 at 10:06 am

            Didem – Sounds like fruit flies. Did you have the mix securely covered with a breathable cloth or paper towel? If so, fruit flies should not have been able to get in. I’m hesitant to tell you to continue on if you stopped stirring your cordial for a couple days. The lack of aeration could have allowed for the proliferation of anaerobic pathogens.

            My advice: if you have access to more wisteria flowers, start over. Just add your current batch to the compost. There’s no food or drink that’s worth getting sick over. Also, be sure to securely cover the next batch with breathable fiber (towel, paper towels, etc) secured over the surface with a string or rubber band. Fruit flies should not be able to get in, but the wisteria cordial should still be able to breathe.

            Hope that helps!

            • Reply
              Nicole W.M.
              May 4, 2021 at 11:11 am

              I would like to make this cordial bit I want to be sure about toxicity… are the pedicels of the individual flowers safe? I don’t want to make a poisonous assumption that when instructed to remove the flowers from the stem, they only mean the main stem of the full cluster. That would be my thought, but if the pedicels (“stems” of the individual flowers) are also toxic, that seems important to note. Thanks for clarifying for me. I also have the native W. frutescens if that matters. But next spring would probably also be gathering blooms from one of the invasive Asian species growing elsewhere in our neighborhood but want to be sure about any toxicity differences among them. I can’t seem to find clear answers to these questions online so though I would simply ask for detail on your preparation process.

              • Aaron von Frank
                May 4, 2021 at 12:11 pm

                Hi Nicole! Sorry for our lack of clarity on this issue. When we’re processing our harvested wisteria flowers, we quickly run our hand down the primary stem of the flower cluster and pop off all the flowers within a few seconds in a single fluid motion. We leave the pedicels on. We’re hesitant to provide a guarantee that there are no toxins in this part of the flower since we’d have to have a chemistry lab in order to find the answer. However, what we can say is that we have done this process numerous times for numerous years with no ill effects. It’s also possible that if there are toxins present in wisteria pedicels, the fermentation process degrades them, making them inert and safe for human consumption. That’s one of the interesting functions of fermenting that we don’t often discuss publicly because of the potential risks, but in other cultures they actually ferment certain poisonous mushrooms, which then breaks down the toxic compounds making them safe for human consumption. The Nordic Food Lab / NOMA (which has better financial resources than we do – ha!) even found that fermenting unripe green elderberries (which are quite poisonous) makes them safe for human consumption. Go microbes! However, if you want to be extra cautious and allay any fears you have about consuming wisteria pedicels, you can remove them while processing. Hope this info helps!

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        Foraged

        Morel mushrooms: a massive foraging haul and some new recipes

        Morel mushrooms: a massive foraging haul and some new recipes thumbnail

        Morel mushrooms are in season, and we have some ridiculously delicious new recipes to share with you!

        Continue Reading

        4 Comments

        • Reply
          DMoney
          April 15, 2018 at 6:41 pm

          Did anyone have any luck in Greenville this year? I found 150 last year. None this year. Are the tulips just late or is the season a dud?

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 17, 2018 at 3:37 pm

            Tulip morels are still out now. We actually don’t have any really good blond spots in Greenville, but there are plenty of tulip spots around.

        • Reply
          Pcwalker
          April 5, 2018 at 9:56 pm

          You’ve just created more competition for next year. LOL. See you in the Sumter.
          BTW the recipes look quite interesting.

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            April 8, 2018 at 8:59 pm

            Ha! We’ll see you out there next year, Patricia. 🙂 Did you have a good blond season this year?

        Leave a Reply

        Gardening

        Starting a Farm – Oak Hill Cafe, Farm To Table

        Starting a Farm - Oak Hill Cafe, Farm To Table thumbnail

        We’ve been doing intensive small-scale permaculture on our half acre yard for about 8 years now. We’ve learned a ton about plants, soil ecology, and insects over that period of time.

        We’ve tried our best to share interesting things we’ve learned along the way via this blog and also through our seed company, GrowJourney.

        Well, we’re about to stretch our brains and learn a whole lot more – and we’ll be sharing what we learn with you along the way.

        Continue Reading

        2 Comments

        • Reply
          Douglas R
          March 22, 2018 at 7:32 pm

          Very interested in keeping tabs on this project. Moving to Greenville at the end of the year and will have to deal with all that red clay. Looking forward to the restaurant though. Keep us in the loop!

          • Reply
            Aaron von Frank
            March 22, 2018 at 7:52 pm

            Welcome (almost) to Greenville, Douglas! We started with red clay in our garden and after years of top-dressing with compost and mulching using no-till methods, the soil in our beds is rich, black, and filled with worms and other good soil critters. The fastest and easiest thing to do is just bring in some good compost to jumpstart the whole process.

        Leave a Reply

        Recipes

        Sorrel: a veggie that tastes like lemons but has more Vitamin C

        Sorrel: a veggie that tastes like lemons but has more Vitamin C thumbnail

        Sorrel, whether wild or domesticated, is a delicious, lemon-flavored green that provides huge quantities of Vitamin C and Vitamin A. Learn how to identify sorrel in the wild or grow cultivated sorrel cultivars in your garden!


        We love tasting each season. 

        Living at the base of the Appalachian Mountains on the outskirts of Greenville, SC (in Ag Zone 7b) means that we’re now getting large harvests of wild edible foods as well. Wild garlic, chickweed, cress, stinging nettle, and sorrel are all thriving in the cool temperatures of late winter.

        Four types of sorrel (Rumex spp.)

        A colander with wild sheep's sorrel and a domesticated garden sorrel in-hand. Look closely at the small sheep sorrel leaf on top of the garden sorrel leaf and you can see the size difference between the two varieties.

        A colander with wild sheep’s sorrel and a domesticated garden sorrel in-hand. Look closely at the small sheep sorrel leaf on top of the garden sorrel leaf and you can see the size difference between the two varieties.

        A cool weather leafy green that we’ve grown to love over the years is sorrel, both wild and domesticated varieties. There are four species of sorrel that are commonly eaten:

        1. Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella)

        Native to Europe and the Mediterranean, sheep’s sorrel grows wild throughout the US where it’s considered an invasive weed. The plant also grows wild in certain areas of our yard, and can take over a bed via underground runners or from seed if left untended. 

        2. Common sorrel, aka garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa)

        Garden sorrel is the common bred sorrel variety originating from Europe and the Mediterranean. The plants are perennials that can live for decades.

        This is our favorite species/variety of sorrel to grow and eat. 

        3. Blood sorrel (Rumex sanguineus)

        Blood sorrel is a very attractive red-veined sorrel, but it’s taste isn’t nearly as good as other varieties in our opinion, though ongoing breeding work may change that claim.

        Blood sorrel’s leaves are best eaten young, but are nearly inedible as the weather warms and the plant matures.

        4. French sorrel (Rumex scutatus)

        French sorrel is a daintier version of common sorrel that was bred in France.

        Common name confusion: wood sorrel (Oxalis spp.) vs sorrel (Rumex spp.)

        Another common edible wild plant is “wood sorrel.” Species of wood sorrels are not related to Rumex sorrels.  

        To limit confusion, wood sorrels are probably best called Oxalis. Even though Oxalis and Rumex species are not related, they do share a similar lemon-like flavor.

        How do you tell Oxalis and Rumex species apart?

        • Oxalis sorrel species have a leaf shape similar to clover and produce tiny edible flowers (both flowers and leaves are edible). 
        • Rumex sorrel species feature arrowhead-shaped leaves and produce tall thin flower stalks. 
        A variety of wild wood sorrel or Oxalis, that is unrelated to Rumex sorrel despite their shared common name. The leaves of wood sorrel look like clover or shamrocks, but they also taste lemony due to their oxalic acid content.

        A variety of wild wood sorrel or Oxalis — unrelated to Rumex sorrels despite their shared common name. The leaves of wood sorrel look like clover or shamrocks, but they also taste lemony due to their oxalic acid content.

        Garden sorrel: a lemon-flavored vitamin powerhouse

        When you first sample sorrel, you’ll experience a bit of a shock that a leafy vegetable can somehow taste like sweet lemons.

        Sheep's sorrel (left) and garden sorrel (right) on cutting board. The leaves have the same shape, only garden sorrel has been bred to be much larger.

        Sheep’s sorrel (left) and garden sorrel (right) on cutting board. The leaves have the same arrowhead-like shape, but garden sorrel has been bred to be much larger.

        Why do sorrel leaves taste like lemons? 

        Sorrel leaves’ flavor is primarily due to their oxalic acid content, which is also found in broccoli, spinach, and other common vegetables. If you eat huge quantities of oxalic acid, it can be toxic, but for a healthy person without kidney problems, there’s virtually zero health risk involved in eating sorrel or other edible plants containing oxalic acid.

        How much Vitamin C is in sorrel?

        Sorrel exhibits some truly amazing nutritional qualities. For instance, a single cup of chopped sorrel leaves delivers over 100% of your recommended daily intake of Vitamin C and Vitamin A.

        It’s pretty easy to understand why sorrel would have been a prized plant before people could drive to the grocery store to get citrus or other vitamin-rich foods. It may have been the only thing preventing scurvy (Vitamin-C deficiency) in many people’s diets.

        A closer look at the arrowhead-shaped leaves of wild sheep's sorrel.

        A closer look at the arrowhead-shaped leaves of wild sheep’s sorrel.

        How do you eat sorrel?

        Sorrel leaves are wonderful made into soups, salads, and sauces. We’ve also read that people used to use sorrel leaves to make lemon-free “lemon” pies when lemons were a rare and expensive commodity.  

        One cooking warning: as much as we love cast iron pans, you should avoid cooking sorrel in either cast iron or unlined aluminum because the reaction between the metal alloys and the oxalic acid will turn the sorrel leaves black. 

        On that note: cooked sorrel will not retain its bright green color. Instead, it will oxidize into more of deep-green-brown color. What it lacks in beauty when cooked, it makes up for in flavor. 

        Recipe: 15-Minute Sorrel Soup

        This sorrel soup recipe:

        • is really fast to make (about 15 minutes), and
        • uses fresh young garlic chive leaves, which grow abundantly in our garden at the same time as sorrel. 
        Garlic chives are another great perennial veggie/herb that produce edible greens for most of the year, from late winter to late fall in our zone.

        Garlic chives are another great perennial veggie/herb that produce edible greens for most of the year in our agricultural zone.

        One thing to mention again in case you missed it up above: sorrel does not maintain its green color and turns more of a greenish-tan-brown color once you cook it. Don’t worry: it still tastes delicious! 

        This 15 minute sorrel soup recipe can be made with cultivated garden sorrel or wild sheep sorrel.

        This 15 minute sorrel soup recipe can be made with cultivated garden sorrel or wild sheep sorrel.

        15 minute sorrel soup recipe made with either garden sorrel or sheep sorrel
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        15-minute sorrel soup

        Course: lunch, Soup
        Cuisine: American, French
        Keyword: how to make sorrel soup, rumex recipe, sorrel, sorrel greens recipe, sorrel soup
        Prep Time: 5 minutes
        Cook Time: 10 minutes
        Total Time: 15 minutes
        Servings: 2 large bowls
        Author: Aaron von Frank

        A fast and simple sorrel soup recipe that can be made with garden sorrel or sheep sorrel. You'll love the umami-lemon flavor!

        Ingredients

        • 4 cups chopped sorrel leaves garden sorrel, French sorrel, or sheep's sorrel will all work
        • 2 1/2 cups water
        • 1/3 cup diced garlic chives you can use chopped yellow onions or garlic greens as a substitute
        • 3 Tablespoons butter
        • 2 Tablespoons organic whole wheat pastry flour or use regular whole wheat flour
        • 1 Tablespoon organic chicken bouillon
        • optional Sea salt to taste, but bouillon should add all the saltiness needed

        Instructions

        1. Put soup pot on medium heat. Add butter. Once butter is melted, add diced garlic chives and cook for about 2-3 minutes, moving the leaves around to ensure even cooking.
        2. As the chives are cooking, prepare 2 cups of warm water and whisk in 1 tablespoon of chicken bouillon. Add to pot along with chopped sorrel leaves. Cook for 5 minutes.
        3. We have an immersion blender that we LOVE. At this point, you'll want to immersion blend the soup to completely break down the leaves into a smooth texture. If you don't have an immersion blender, transfer to a food processor, blend, then put back into pot on stove top.

        4. Next, put 1/2 cup of room temperature water into mixing bowl and slowly whisk in 2 tablespoons of whole wheat organic pastry flour. This is your thickening agent. If you put the flour directly into the hot soup mixture, it will clump up, so this is why you're mixing it in room temperature water first. Pastry flour is lighter and more finely ground, providing a better texture for soup (substitute regular whole wheat flour if you don't have pastry). Once the flour is mixed into the water, slowly pour the mixture into the soup, whisking vigorously as you go to prevent clumping. Cook for another minute or so. Taste and add a pinch of sea salt or more bouillon if desired.

        5. Remove from heat and serve! A spoonful of fermented dairy goes great on top of each serving (such as yogurt, milk kefir, labneh, or sour cream).

         

        We hope you enjoy this sorrel recipe! Oh, if you don’t have an immersion blender yet (as is mentioned in the recipe), here’s the one we recommend. It will save you a ton of time and work in the kitchen.

        And if you want to learn about more the edible “weeds” growing in your yard and how to use them, read our article 16 common edible weeds growing in your yard… with recipes! 

        KIGI,

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          Gardening In Depth

          How to avoid getting sick (and feel better)

          How to avoid getting sick (and feel better) thumbnail

          I’ve been sick a total of one day in the past 10+ years. Use these ten simple, practical steps that I use to help you feel your best and avoid getting sick. 


          This isn’t a post about how special I am. I’m not. I’m a normal guy who has taken a keen interest in human health and wellness because I like to understand how biological systems operate in order to better make sense of the world around me — and to live the best life I can.

          Health factors you can’t control vs ones you can

          As a foreword, I should mention that there are at least four factors that contribute to our health and wellness that we all have/had zero control over:

          1. Natural Birth

          Research shows that the bacteria you’re introduced to in your mother’s birth canal during birth has an enormous impact on charging your immune system, which has a positive, lifelong impact on your health.

          2. Breastfeeding

          Breast milk provides far more than nutrition, it’s a living microbe-rich substance that also helps in immune system development (among many other functions).

          3. Genetics

          In my opinion, our culture places far more emphasis on genes than environmental factors in explaining human outcomes – at least relative to what research would support. For example, different research teams have concluded that as much as 90% to 95% of cancers are caused by environmental and lifestyle choices, at least 90% of Type 2 diabetes is preventable, etc..

          In short, the illnesses and diseases that kill by far more people than anything else in the US are almost entirely the result of environmental factors, not genes. Nevertheless, genes can and do impact our health outcomes, and we don’t get to choose our genes.

          4. Luck

          You might have had the most thoughtful, healthy parents in the world or you might have an excellent diet and exercise regimen, and you still get sick… or worse. Every outcome has a cause, but that doesn’t mean we have the ability to track down the cause(s) or prevent it.

          Think about how unlucky the children were who may have crawled around in lead-based paint dust prior to 1978; how unlucky the kids were whose bedrooms were sprayed with DDT to keep the bugs away back before Rachel Carson came along; etc.. What unknown risks are we unknowingly taking today that we’ll look back on in 50 years and say, “wow, I can’t believe they used to do that.”

          I fully acknowledge these four uncontrollable factors. However, what this article is about are simple, practical steps you can take to make yourself healthier and avoid getting sick. Think of it as helpful tips to do the best you can with the cards you’ve been dealt. (No, I’m not going to tell you things like “don’t smoke cigarettes” because I’m going to assume you’re smart enough to know that already.)

          10 Ways To Avoid Getting Sick & Improve Your Quality of Life

          I used to get sick about once every year or two (cold or flu), but since adopting these practices I’ve only been sick once in ten years (a one day stomach bug likely from a restaurant meal/mild food poisoning).

          1. Don’t ever touch your hands to your mouth until you’ve washed your hands.

          Do you chew your nails? Nibble your fingers? Put your fingers to your lips when you think? Pick up a sandwich to eat after touching the restaurant door handle?

          If so, you’re very likely introducing a big load of pathogenic bacteria or viruses into your system, especially if you do this during cold and flu season. Just think of all the door handles, faucets, chairs, railings, etc you touched before touching your mouth – how many people (and sick people) touched those before you did?

          Your immune system might be able to fend off these invaders, but why take the risk? Washing your hands with warm soapy water (or using a good hand sanitizer) after you’ve been in a public environment is good practice. Just as hospital and restaurant workers have sanitation guidelines that have drastically reduced infections and illnesses for their patients/customers, you can likely enjoy a big reduction in illness with this step.

          2. Get dirty – especially kids.

          This might seem antithetical to the first recommendation, but people/children living in hyper-sterilized environments actually get sick more frequently than people who do not. This phenomenon is explained by the “hygiene hypothesis,” aka the biome depletion theory.

          Humans are basically a giant garden of microbial life; among other functions, our microbes serve to protect us, produce helpful pharmaceuticals for us, and inform our immune system about what it needs to be prepared to protect you against. You need your microbial systems to be both biodiverse and robust or you lose the “forcefield effect” they serve.

          One of the best ways to “get dirty” without introducing yourself to harmful synthetic chemicals? Organic gardening.

          Purple asparagus and fresh greens from our organic garden in early March. Getting dirty tastes good! How to avoid getting sick, by Tyrant Farms

          Purple asparagus and fresh greens from our organic garden in early March. Getting dirty tastes good!

          3. Chill with the antibiotics.

          No, antibiotics can’t treat a cold or flu (viruses), so don’t ask your doctor for antibiotics to treat those illnesses. If your doc prescribes antibiotics to you to treat your cold or flu, run away because he/she isn’t being responsible. Not only are you not helping yourself, you’re potentially making  superbugs that antibiotics won’t be able to kill – and those suberbugs are currently killing tens of thousands of people each year in the US alone.

          Thankfully, the FDA just outlawed antibacterial handsoap for the same reasons. You can also avoid unknowingly consuming antibiotics by consuming organic meat rather than conventional meat.

          When you use antibiotics, you’re also killing off good bacteria, not just the bad guys. Ironically, that means you’re making your biological system more susceptible to being overwhelmed by pathogens since your biological forcefield isn’t operating optimally. This is not to say “never take antibiotics,” only to exercise extreme discretion and take antibiotics only when they’re actually medically necessary.

          4. Elderberry syrup.

          One of the reasons we garden is to grow incredibly high quality medicinal foods. One of our favorites is elderberry (the varieties we grow are ‘Adams’ and ‘Johns’. The flowers make delicious liqueurs and sparkling cordials, and the berries can be made into anything you’d make with blackberries: pies, preserves, etc. (Read our article How to grow your own elderberries.)

          Can elderberries help you avoid getting sick? Believe it or not, this is only one night's elderberry harvest during the peak of elderberry season. They're very prolific plants. How to avoid getting sick, by Tyrant Farms

          Believe it or not, this is only one night’s elderberry harvest during the peak of elderberry season. They’re very prolific plants.

          Each summer, we end up with a freezer full of elderberries that we then use throughout the year as an immune booster. We boil and strain the fruit, ending up with a delicious dark purple “elderberry syrup” (basically just a concentrated juice – you can read about how we make it here).

          Research has shown that compounds in elderberry juice can drastically reduce the severity and duration of the cold and flu, but we take a shot glass full 2-3 times per week as a preventative–and because it’s delicious. If you don’t have a yard or don’t want to grow your own, you can also buy elderberry syrup.

          5. Eat for your gut microbiome.

          Even though it’s often attributed to him, nobody knows if Hippocrates actually said “let thy food be thy medicine and thy medicine be thy food.” However, modern research does very much support the notion that what you eat can drastically impact your overall health and ability to fight off illnesses.

          How do you “eat for your gut microbiome,” the trillions of microbes residing in your digestive system? Eat lots of probiotics and prebiotics.

          • “Probiotics” are foods that introduce beneficial bacteria to your digestive system – fermented foods and beverages are your best resources here. (This article might blow your mind.)
          • “Prebiotics” are foods that your resident microbes eat for you, since you can’t digest them on your own – namely, the fiber in whole grains, fruits, and veggies. If you’re not eating these foods daily, you’re going to diminish your gut health and increase your likelihood of getting sick.

          Three recommendations here: 1) read the book The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz; 2) get a good German crockpot so you can make your own killer sauerkrauts for a fraction of the cost of store bought stuff, 3) get an easy to use yogurt maker (here’s the one we use and here’s our favorite yogurt starter culture). (2020 update: Actually, scrap the yogurt and make your own milk kefir, which is a far better probiotic than yogurt.

          6. Skip the vitamin supplements – eat a better diet instead.

          Yes, there’s a whole aisle of them at the grocery store and drug store. Yes, it’s a multi-billion dollar industry. Yes, your mom and your best friend tell you that vitamin supplements will cure everything. But the majority of research shows that vitamin supplements are unnecessary, ineffective, or even dangerous in the long run. Unless something medically unusual is happening or you have a poor diet, you should be getting all the vitamins and nutrition you need from your food.

          If you want to read more about the quack science around vitamin supplements (and the guy who started the vitamin craze before dying of cancer), check out this article in The Atlantic.

          There's no need for vitamins (which come with their own health risks) when you eat nutrient-rich, biodiverse foods. Here's one of our favorite early spring meals: homemade Raman soup with whole wheat organic ramen, duck eggs, and fresh organic veggies & herbs from our garden. How to avoid getting sick by Tyrant Farms

          There’s no need for vitamins (which come with their own health risks) when you eat nutrient-rich, biodiverse foods. Here’s one of our favorite early spring meals: homemade Raman soup with whole wheat organic ramen, duck eggs, and fresh organic veggies & herbs from our garden.

          We also grow multiple varieties of organic citrus in containers. If you want to learn how to grow your own organic citrus, read this article.

          7. Sleep 7+ hours per day.

          Of all the tips, this is the one I personally struggle with the most because I love to read and stay up late. Once I pick up my phone and start reading something interesting late at night, my brain wakes up and has difficulty slowing back down. The other problem I encounter as an entrepreneur is regularly working really late – because there’s always work to be done.

          How much sleep do you need? It depends… According to the National Institutes of Health (NIH), school-age children need at least 10 hours of sleep/day, teens need 9-10 hours, and adults need 7-8 hours.

          I’m not the only one who struggles with sleep. Somewhere in the range of 40% of Americans are sleep-deprived, often chronically so. As Dr. Nathaniel Watson, professor of neurology at the University of Washington Medicine Sleep Center in Seattle says, “Sleep is as important as diet and exercise to optimal health.”

          Being tired impacts all aspects of your health, but it also reduces immune system function, thus increasing your susceptibility to colds, flus, and other illnesses (as well as increasing your risk for chronic life-threatening illnesses down the road).

          A few tips for getting a good night’s sleep that I’ve found helpful (as an adult who needs at least 7 hours of sleep):

          • Plan – If you know you have to be awake at 7am, you’re not going to have a good night sleep if you’re still working on your computer at midnight. Plan at least 1 hour of downtime before you actually go to sleep.
          • Put Away the Phone – My phone is my alarm clock, but when I’m disciplined, I’ll refuse to look at it (especially news or facebook that gets my blood boiling) when I’m winding down before bed.
          • Breathing – Meditation is awesome, but you can reap some serious benefits and stress relief simply by closing your eyes and doing a couple minutes of deep breathing exercises during your wind down period before bed.
          • Tea – I love a cup of tea at night, especially types that have proven stress-relief and relaxation properties. My two faves (we grow mounds of both of these in our garden): lemon balm tea (tastes like citrus) and chamomile tea (tastes like pineapples and apples). (You can get fancy with more potent medicinal teas like this reishi mushroom chamomile tea.) They taste great and help put you in a relaxed mental state. If you’re older and don’t want to have to wake up to pee at night, drink your tea a bit earlier in your nightly routine.
          Organically grown chamomile flowering in our garden. We dry the flowers and use them to make tea, which tastes like pineapple and apples. It's a great relaxing tea to drink at night when you're winding down. How to avoid getting sick, by Tyrant Farms

          Organically grown chamomile flowering in our garden. We dry the flowers and use them to make tea, which tastes like pineapple and apples. It’s a great relaxing tea to drink at night when you’re winding down.

          8. Work Out Like a Beast (unless you’re physically impaired)

          I don’t have time to run marathons or bike for 6 hours at a time (and I don’t really want to make the time for those things).

          Thankfully, research shows that high-intensity intermittent exercise (HIIE), aka highly efficient weight training, is probably the best physical activity you can do for your health. It releases loads of good chemicals, helps you build lean muscle mass, helps you burn fat (long cardio training can actually trigger your body to store fat), strengthens your bones, lowers insulin resistance, keeps your body efficiently burning calories long after the training is over, and helps you sleep like a baby.

          Exercise also helps you optimize your immune system function so you’ll get sick less frequently (if at all) and recover more quickly if you do get sick.

          My wife and I get moderate exercise almost daily in our garden, but I do not sleep well unless I’ve done intense weight training. 30-45 minutes is all it takes – and we don’t have to drive to the weight room or buy a gym membership. We simply pull out our PowerBlocks and open DailyBurn on our laptop.

          The best thing about Daily Burn is you can choose from a wide range of trainers and exercise routines, depending on your fitness level (from beginner to advanced). You can push yourself as hard as you want and shock your muscles with different types of workouts, rather than falling into the same routine which your metabolic system adjusts to. Maybe I’m a bit of a sicko, but I love pushing myself a little further each time, to the point of extreme discomfort, which is why I enjoy Bob Harper, Ben Booker, and Anja Garcia’s programs the most.

          If you’ve got an injury or simply hate doing weight training (I personally think you can program yourself to enjoy it), you still need to find some form of physical exercise in order to keep yourself (and your immune system) healthy.

          9. Junk In, Junk Out

          Remember what I said about feeding your gut microbiome in tip #5? Lactobacillus spp. and Bifidobacterium spp. may be the two most important species of bacteria for a healthy human digestive system – they also serve to outcompete pathogenic microorganisms that can cause you to get sick, similar to the way that beneficial/predatory insects outcompete pest insects in a healthy garden ecosystem.

          A lacewing larva hunting and eating an aphid (a common pest insect) on a Rosa rugosa leaf in our garden. Given our robust population of predatory insects, pest insects seldom have the opportunity to proliferate in our garden. This pattern is true of your gut microbiome: beneficial gut "bugs" help keep the bad guys out. How to avoid getting sick, by Tyrant Farms

          A lacewing larva hunting and eating an aphid (a common pest insect) on a Rosa rugosa leaf in our garden. Given our robust population of predatory insects, pest insects seldom have the opportunity to proliferate in our garden. This pattern is true of your gut microbiome: beneficial gut “bugs” help keep the bad guys out.

          As it turns out, pesticide residue in your food and beverages is likely causing dysbiosis, aka the killing off of good bacteria and an over-proliferation of bad/pathogenic bacteria in your digestive system. That means it’s entirely possible that the pesticide residues you consume are increasing the likelihood of you getting sick.

          The best way to get the most nutrition from the least calories AND to feed your microorganisms what they know how to eat (without disrupting that ecosystem with pesticide residue) is eating minimally processed organic foods, ideally supplemented from your own organic garden.

          I get it: so many of us are stressed to the max, time-starved, and cash-strapped, so we take the path that appears to offer the least friction: fast/junk food. If a complete dietary change it too daunting, take baby steps:

          • Month 1: Start by cutting out soda (including diet soda) and fruit juice, and replacing them with water or herbal tea.
          • Month 2: Eat a small serving of organic nuts before each meal, which help you feel full and fuel your brain.
          • As soon as you can (Month 3?): Cut all white bread, white rice, or any other refined grains out of your diet entirely. Use 100% whole grain organically grown alternatives instead. 

          You’ll soon be amazed at how much better you feel when you start to change your diet to organic whole foods and cut out the crud that’s fueling your junk food addiction, wreaking havoc on your gut microbiome, making you feel awful, and promoting illness.

          My wife and I are now at a point in our lives that we hardly ever go out to eat anymore, except for social occasions. Why would we when we can make something 10x better tasting, more nutritious, less expensive, and more quickly at home that doesn’t have any pesticide residues? With rare exception, eating out is an inconvenience for us, instead of the other way around.

          Better nutrition, less pesticide exposure, more robust gut flora = decreased likelihood of getting sick.

          10. Be grateful, laugh at yourself, control the controllable

          I know there are plenty of reasons to be pessimistic or horrified about various things happening in the world. You have very little control over those things so you can’t let them consume you. That doesn’t mean you don’t care, it just means you also have to create good in the parts of the world that you can control as your #1 priority.

          I am incredibly grateful every single day for my wife, business partner, best friend, and favorite Tyrant (Susan). I’m grateful for extraordinary parents that I couldn’t have chosen better if I’d actually been given the choice. I’m grateful for the beauty I get to experience each day that I walk outside into our edible organic yard. (I’m not grateful when there are ripening strawberries on our plants and the weather forecast shows 24 degrees, but I digress.)

          We also laugh a lot, especially at ourselves, and more broadly at the peculiarities of the world we were born into. We don’t much care for the way things are, so we’re doing our best to change them rather than simply criticizing them. That’s why we live with a flock of hilariously goofy Welsh Harlequin heritage breed ducks on an urban organic micro-farm; that’s why we have a certified organic seed company that teaches people no-till gardening approaches (aka carbon farming). We’re doing what we can, where we can.

          But we never take ourselves too seriously (when I start to, The Tyrant pops my bubble).

          Our ducks are horrified at their first sighting of a moving rock, known to humans as a turtle. It's hard not to laugh a lot when there are ducks around. How to avoid getting sick, by Tyrant Farms.

          Our ducks are horrified at their first sighting of a moving rock, known to humans as a turtle. It’s hard not to laugh a lot when there are ducks around.

          How do these things make us less likely to get sick? It alters the lens through which we view, process, and project our interpretation of the world outward, which in turn makes us feel and function better. When you see the positive results of the world you’re creating immediately around you, it gives you hope and momentum. All of this fuels a positive worldview and reality-based optimism (we’re not talking about the feel good rah-rah optimism that fuels speculative market bubbles and other delusions).

          And, yes, this sort of worldview has indeed been proven to reduce your likelihood of getting sick while allowing you to live a longer, more satisfying life. Pretty neat, eh?

          How do you avoid getting sick?

          These are my top-10 tips to avoid getting sick. In my experiment of one, they’re working quite well. Do you have some tips and tricks that you use to avoid getting sick? Leave a tip in the comments!

          7 Comments

          • Reply
            John
            February 25, 2022 at 7:54 pm

            I loved this article. Except for your misunderstanding of DDT. Most scientists actually believe DDT is the safest and most effective pest killer known to man. But, someone writes a fictitious novel, and the media tells us we’re all going to die, and we all panic and use less effective toxins that poison the land, and all life.
            My grandfather was a sharecropper who used DDT to treat his 12 kids, and numerous grand-kids, for lice. None of his kids ever had cancer. My mom was the youngest to die, at 62, in a car wreck.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              February 28, 2022 at 12:57 pm

              DDT is a tricky one because it does have specific use cases that make some sense, especially back when it was in heavy use. Case in point: getting rid of lice. However, what happened with lice is the same thing that happened with DDT mosquito eradication efforts in the tropics: insects adapt to become resistant to DDT. That’s obviously not a phenomenon unique to DDT: lice are increasingly resistant to modern permethrin-based treatments as well.  

              As for the relative safety of DDT, it impacts each species differently, so it’s hard to make sweeping generalizations about its risk profile for all lifeforms. (See findings about DDT impacts on avian species by renowned toxicologist David Peakall and others.) 

              In humans, there’s certainly no evidence that normal DDT ingestion or contact is going to kill you, and it’s only considered a “probable human carcinogen” by scientists and regulatory bodies today, both in the US and beyond. However, DDT is certainly an endocrine disruptor. As such, there’s good evidence of both immediate and transgenerational/epigenetic effects. Lower semen quality, spontaneous abortions, thyroid disfunction, etc. There’s also evidence that mothers with high levels of DDE (metabolite of DDT) in their blood causes a higher risk of autism in children. 

              Since DDT has a soil half-life of 30 years and aquatic half-life of 150 years, it’s incredibly environmentally persistent, which is cause for concern since it: a) percolates throughout and up the food web, and b) stores and accumulates in the body fat of apex species without metabolizing.

              Is it safer than the synthetic pesticides that came after it? That would have to be argued on a case-by-case basis, but the historical tendency/cycle that we seem to continuously repeat over the past century in conventional ag (and other industries) is something like this: synthetic chemical introduced with limited/no independent human health or environmental impact data > broad commercial adoption > independent research reveals problems > vested industry groups deny and obfuscate research > evidence eventually breaks through the damn of misinformation recalibrating financial risk-reward scenarios for producers  > chemical banned or restricted > novel chemical introduced as replacement… and then the cycle repeats. Having recently swallowed Monsanto at an inopportune time, Bayer is currently experiencing the downside of this pattern from a financial/legal accountability standpoint. 

              Assuming the book you’re referencing is Rachel Carlson’s Silent Spring, she may have gone beyond the data at the point of publication. However, what her book triggered was a ton of research and a thorough evaluation of the available evidence on DDT by JFK’s Science Advisory Committee, the US EPA, and court/legal system. The information that emerged largely supported Carlson’s concerns, and ultimately led to the banning of DDT. 

              My grandfather smoked packs of cigarettes each day for most of his life. He lived to be over 90 years old and died of unrelated, natural causes. This anecdotal experience does not lend itself well to teasing out the effects or risk profile of widespread cigarette usage across a population. Everything comes with risks and perhaps there are still good use cases for DDT. However, it is now well-established that DDT is not benign and its potential use should be evaluated with known risks in mind.

          • Reply
            Nikki K.
            March 14, 2017 at 8:06 am

            I’m in Greenville county, SC, and you’re the 2nd person this week who has mentioned the good quality of our water. It was news to me, and I was glad to hear it.

            Great tips, too, with a couple that I’d like to implement more of. In particular, I’ve been wanting to learn to make yogurt. My own list would also include taking time to recover from stressful events (and letting go of chronic stress as much as I can), building and keeping healthy relationships with others, and drinking herbal teas.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 14, 2017 at 10:07 am

              Yep, managing stress and having healthy human relationships are critical parts of the pie chart. Re yogurt: we were gifted a wonderful little contraption (the product is linked in the article where we mention making yogurt) that makes it incredibly easy to make yogurt. One of the main reasons we like making our own yogurt is we can make it in reusable glass jars, rather than plastic. There’s been quite a bit of research about the health impacts that BPA and other endocrine disrupting compounds found in plastic containers and standard metal jars have on human health and our gut flora. We try our best to avoid eating any acidic, liquid, or fermented foods made/stored in plastic. We recycle, but we have no idea how much of that plastic actually makes its way back into production or ends up in a landfill or waterway. Thankfully, it’s easy to find organic grass milk now, so the final yogurt product you can make at home is as high quality as possible.

          • Reply
            mckra1g
            March 11, 2017 at 4:13 pm

            I drink plenty of water. In the summer, I infuse it with the fresh mint that grows in my back yard (or cucumbers), and in the winter, I add lemon or lime. It’s amazing how much better I feel when I stay hydrated. Good list!

            • Reply
              Aaron
              March 13, 2017 at 10:12 am

              Good stuff! That’s another area where we all can do better. I’ve seen studies indicating that the majority of Americans are also dehydrated, often chronically so. Hopefully, people can access quality, lead and chemical-free water from their taps instead of having to get water out of plastic bottles. We’re lucky to live in a spot that has some of the best quality drinking water in the US, since it comes directly from pristine reservoirs in the mountains.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 13, 2017 at 12:49 pm

              Good stuff! That’s another area where we all can do better. I’ve seen studies indicating that the majority of Americans are also dehydrated, often chronically so. Hopefully, people can access quality, lead and chemical-free water from their taps instead of having to use water out of plastic bottles. We’re lucky to live in a spot (Greenville, SC) that has some of the best quality tap water in the US, since it comes directly from pristine reservoirs in the mountains.

          Leave a Reply

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          Gardening

          DIY grow lights: easily grow garden seedlings, microgreens, and more

          DIY grow lights: easily grow garden seedlings, microgreens, and more thumbnail

          Want your own affordable DIY grow lights that can grow thousands of dollars worth of garden seedlings or microgreens every year? We’ll show you how!


          We’ve been gardening for over a decade. Each year we learn a little more and get a little better at growing our own organic food using no-till methods.

          We can point to a few key techniques and technologies that have made the biggest difference in our gardening success. It’s sort of like the 80-20 rule, wherein 20% of what you do, yields 80% of the results.

          At the top of the list of where we get the most bang for our buck:

          1. using no-till organic growing methods; and
          2. using indoor grow lights.
          DIY grow light Setup with lots of plants!

          Our indoor DIY grow lights growing fall garden seedlings.

          Continue Reading

          12 Comments

          • Reply
            Roger Davis
            April 5, 2023 at 7:20 pm

            As I’ve said before your website and links are great.
            I’m an a apartment gardener. I use a very similar setup to you though I have a 6ft east facing window and only use two shelves of my rack.
            For the most part I grow salad greens.
            As I’ve pointed out the expenses of growing under lights my question to you was does a mirror nano tech reflector make sense?
            They are not cheap but the seller claims your plants get more light.
            I’m not looking to save money on salad greens but I don’t want to waste money either.

            • Reply
              Susan von Frank
              April 8, 2023 at 11:20 pm

              Hi Roger! We’ve never used reflectors and don’t intend to since we’re only growing seedlings up to the point of transplant (no more than 6-8 weeks). If you’re aiming to grow salad greens all the way to maturity, you might get more efficient/faster production and healthier plants with reflectors, but we can’t provide any personal opinion given that we haven’t done our own A-B test on both options (plants with and without reflectors). I also wonder if you couldn’t do a DIY reflector setup to cut costs, assuming there is a benefit. But if you’re already getting good results with your current setup, don’t fix what isn’t broken!

          • Reply
            Roter Davis
            March 18, 2023 at 3:54 am

            Though Clarie’s question is old it hasn’t been answered. And it needs answering.
            As Aaron has told me it just depends, lol.
            So we have to make some assumptions.
            Let’s say your using two shop lights with 40 watt tubes. That”s 160 watts. Let”s say you run your lights 16 hours a day. That’s 2560 watts. Let’s say your actual electric cost is 20 cents a kwh. That works to a bit over 50 cents a day. Or over $15 a month. If your using high out put tubes add another third.
            To find your real electric cost divided your kw usage by your total bill. Don’t go by what they say they charge.

          • Reply
            Roter Davis
            March 13, 2023 at 11:03 pm

            Great minds seem to think alike. I was amazed at how similar seed starting set up as to mine. Everything from the shelving to the chains, s hooks and even using zip ties to attach the photo strips.
            But we depart at this point. I’m an apartment gardener with an easy facing window so use only two shelves. A single 1020 flat will produce all the transplants I can use. Most of what I grow under lights is “seed to table”. Mostly salad greens.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 14, 2023 at 7:53 am

              Nice! We currently use a combination of LED and our older fluorescent grow lights. We like both systems, but it’s getting harder to find fluorescent lighting supplies now that LED systems have gotten so much less expensive than they used to be. Kudos to you for producing your own salad greens under your grow lights.

              • Reply
                Roter Davis
                March 15, 2023 at 12:49 am

                Your articles are great. And the links are even better. Didn’t know Amazon sold many of the items or that they even existed.
                My main lighting consistent of some very over priced fluorescent fixtures from Johnny’s. But they claim a good reflector can double a lights usable output. What do you think?

                • Aaron von Frank
                  March 15, 2023 at 11:36 am

                  Thank you and glad to hear the information and links we provided are helpful for you! Ok, regarding reflectors with your grow lights, our answer is: it depends. (Don’t you love the clarity of that answer?) What type of grow lights are you using? What type and size of plants are you growing? How long do you intend to grow the plants – to seedling transplant stage or to maturity?

                  The reason we don’t use reflectors in our indoor grow light system is because we’re only growing seedlings indoors for about 6-8 weeks and we also put the seedlings out in natural sunlight any day where the weather/temperatures permit. If we were growing larger plants and/or plants to maturity, then it might make sense to use reflectors. However, with some full reflector systems you then create conditions of inadequate airflow so you have to buy more stuff (blowers, temperature controls, etc). We like to KISS and use the least amount of equipment possible to get the desired results. We also subscribe to the Warren Buffet axiom of “don’t ask the barber if you need a haircut.” The barber is always going to recommend a haircut just as a garden supply company is always going to recommend you buy more equipment. If you’re just growing garden seedlings, you most likely don’t need to buy reflectors to achieve your desired results.

          • Reply
            Rafael Dell Agnolo
            February 10, 2020 at 10:37 am

            Hi Aaron! I have a question about the led lights, according to the led lights that you have indicated, all of them are full-spectrum, however, the photos show it as white color, is that the same led light? I’m planning to use led lights in my project and I was wondering use 4000k white led strips. Can I use it?

          • Reply
            Claire Botman
            January 17, 2019 at 2:45 pm

            Hi Aaron, how about running cost, power bills, have you found its been expensive?

          • Reply
            GonzoVeritas
            April 18, 2018 at 11:41 am

            Have they developed any LED lights that are suitable for growing?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              April 20, 2018 at 11:05 am

              Yes, there are plenty of good LED grow lights out there, they just tend to be a good bit more expensive than the florescent setup we have here. On the flip side, our setup wouldn’t work for growing larger plants, it’s designed for growing small plants and (primarily) seedlings. If you’re growing larger plants indoors, LEDs work well.

              • Reply
                GonzoVeritas
                April 23, 2018 at 11:23 am

                Thanks

          Leave a Reply

          Recipe Rating




          Recipes

          Chickweed recipe: turning common weeds into gourmet food

          Chickweed recipe: turning common weeds into gourmet food thumbnail

          Use this chickweed recipe to put a delightful cold-hardy culinary and medicinal “weed” to use in your kitchen.

          We haven’t made any official announcements yet, but I (Aaron) am going to be managing a new farm for Oak Hill Cafe, a farm-to-table restaurant that’s scheduled to open in Greenville in 2018. (More on that soon.) Susan The Tyrant will be helping out some as well, and we’re also partnering with Chris Miller from Yeah, That Garden Guy on the project.

          Continue Reading

          3 Comments

          • Reply
            JoJo
            May 26, 2019 at 12:08 pm

            I just found your site and LOVE, LOVE, LOVE all the information on what my mother taught me when I was a child living on a remote glacier lake in Western Canada. I’d forgotten most of her teachings due to a traumatic brain injury, but did remember that weeds are edible, just didn’t remember which ones.

            Today I’ll be dining on a chickweed, beet, dandelion, white clover, violet and lentil salad. I eat a vegan diet and am only concerned that everything I consume is nutrient dense due to never experiencing hunger due to the injury.

            After reading dozens of your articles, I feel not only a sense of renewal, but an odd feeling of I want to eat those darling little green gifts from God that are scattered all over our property. Thank you so much for the inspiration you’ve given me and God Bless your dear spirits.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              May 26, 2019 at 2:50 pm

              What a nice note, thank you JoJo! Not sure where you live now, but it sounds like nature has provided you with your own wild garden full of edible plants. Hope you enjoy your salad. 🙂 Side note: you should write a book or at least blog about your experiences. Sounds like a great story full of important life lessons.

              • Reply
                JoJo
                May 30, 2019 at 8:58 am

                What a dear reply you’ve made. It touched my heart. Many times, since my accident, it has been suggested that I write a book but I now realize what a precious gift every day is that I might not have experienced. When I awoke from my coma, my brain functioned at a baby state, I knew nothing, remembered nothing and didn’t even know I was human, or alive, but somehow knew to pray to God. This whole experience has taught me that nothing in life matters as much as the loving spirits of friends and family and I wish all people could experience the joy and peace of that knowledge.

                I know live in Massachusetts on a pretty pond with my amazing supportive husband. I often miss the rugged mountains and wild flower covered valleys of Western Canada, but this area has scenic rolling hills with historic farms and a scattering of pristine ponds and an abundance of wonderful edible weeds that you’re site has tweaked my memory on what to eat.

                Thank you and keep sharing your brilliant knowledge.

          Leave a Reply

          Recipe Rating




          Recipes

          How to make the best tasting homemade milk kefir

          How to make the best tasting homemade milk kefir thumbnail

          Milk kefir: What is it? How does it taste? What’s its history? Why is it good for you? How is milk kefir different or better than yogurt? Perhaps most importantly: how do you make the best tasting milk kefir?

          In this article, we’ll answer all these questions and more, plus share our tips on how to make the best tasting homemade milk kefir based on our own experiments and taste-test results.

          Continue Reading

          2 Comments

          • Reply
            Robert
            June 21, 2023 at 4:19 pm

            Honey is anti-bacterial, I dont think it should be mixed with kefir.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 22, 2023 at 10:30 am

              You might not want to make milk kefir with honey in it, but eating the two substances together isn’t an issue. There’s only going to be a small amount of honey relative to the quantity of milk kefir and the medley will be further diluted and broken down on its way through your digestive system. Additionally, honey doesn’t exhibit antimicrobial effects against ALL genera and species of bacteria; it predominantly shows anti-microbial activity against pathogenic species while actually promoting and serving as a prebiotic for beneficial species.

              Via 2022 study in the journal Frontiers in Nutrition: “Current research suggests that certain kinds of honey can reduce the presence of infection-causing bacteria in the gut including Salmonella, Escherichia coli, and Clostridiodes difficile, while simultaneously stimulating the growth of potentially beneficial species, such as Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria.”

              Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria are both present in milk kefir cultures, so honey likely helps these beneficial strains.

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          Gardening

          Help us name this amazing new pot moving device!

          Help us name this amazing new pot moving device! thumbnail

          As we’ve written about elsewhere, our citrus obsession has caused us to grow lots of big plants in pots. We have nearly a dozen citrus varieties and since we live in a moderate climate zone where winter temps regularly dip into the teens and 20’s, that means we have to move our pots indoors or into our garage at various points throughout the fall and winter months.

          Continue Reading

          36 Comments

          • Reply
            Scott Schumacher
            October 6, 2024 at 5:01 pm

            Hi there, of love to get one of these large plant pot movers!

            Please let me know how much and if you can deliver as well. I live in Sun Prairie WI 53590

            Thank you! Scott Schumacher

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              October 7, 2024 at 11:14 am

              Hi Scott! Our friend isn’t able to build any more pot movers, sorry! There may be some other device available at this point that can help. Best of luck!

            • Reply
              John Robertson
              November 29, 2024 at 11:06 am

              Hi Scott,
              John the designer and fabricator here. I cannot identify a viable business model for manufacturing these pot movers. The jaw clamping mechanism requires some precisely machined parts, so it would need to sell for something like $800/unit. Then there is shipping – in the current robust form which is not collapsible, shipping alone would be over $100.
              I cannot know for sure, but I suspect prospective clients would be willing to pay no more than $200, delivered.
              Then there is the size of the market – likely a few per year.
              If it were possible to line up a significant production run, it may be profitable to sell these for ~$500.

              I wish I had better news.

          • Reply
            Lindsay Grega
            April 5, 2023 at 10:17 pm

            PORTA-POTTER. YOU MUST!!!!

          • Reply
            joseph
            February 27, 2023 at 7:31 pm

            Porta-Potter for sure – now how do I get one here in California?

            🙂

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              February 27, 2023 at 10:49 pm

              Ha! Yeah, that’s a winning name for the pot mover. 😛 Unfortunately, our engineer friend no longer has the time to build these custom pot moving devices for anyone else. However, if you or someone else you know is very handy and wants to try to build your own, message us on our contact form and we’ll do our best to get you photos and videos to help you replicate ours.

            • Reply
              Robin Anders
              November 19, 2023 at 9:35 pm

              I would be interested in buying one of these! Or would pay for the plans to make my own. This year I had some young strong boys to haul my pots to the greenhouse but it IS a problem!!!

              • Reply
                Aaron von Frank
                November 19, 2023 at 10:17 pm

                Hi Robin! Unfortunately, John isn’t able to make any more of these pot movers. I’d be happy to share photos or videos with you privately if you’d like to have a go at making your own. Just message us here: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/contact-us/

          • Reply
            Shanthi Subramanyam
            January 13, 2023 at 12:27 am

            Wow – nice! Every winter and spring, I pay my lawn guys to move them in and out of the garage – so it gets expensive! I would love to be able to buy one of these!

          • Reply
            Michele Logan
            January 9, 2023 at 1:34 pm

            Hi Aaron,

            I can never thank you and the Tyrant enough for all of the valuable information and delicious recipes you offer. It has been immensely helpful as we build out our farm.

            We are located in NJ and have 6 citrus trees and our collection is growing (waiting for the Moro Blood orange to be back in stock!). If you could please provide your engineer friend’s contact info I’d love to ask him to make us a Monster Pot Mobile. ;o)

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              January 9, 2023 at 4:51 pm

              Thanks Michele! I’ll email you his contact information now. Best of luck with your growing citrus “grove” – ha!

          • Reply
            Mary Ann Hunnicutt
            August 3, 2022 at 9:28 pm

            I would love to have a large citrus /fruit tree mover to bring my large plants into a cool but above freezing sunroom in the fall before a zone 7a winter that would kill them. Could you please put me into contact with the engineer that built yours so I can contact him about purchasing one.
            Thank you for any help you can give!

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              August 4, 2022 at 11:16 am

              Sure! I’ll email you now so you can check to see what it would cost and if he’s interested/available in building you a pot moving device.

          • Reply
            Caroline
            July 25, 2022 at 10:15 am

            This device is exactly what I need to move several of my monster sized palms, frangiapanis, jades and now papayas. I recently moved to SC from Illinois where I had a greenhouse but do not have one here. However I have a wonderful summer room with windows all around that is a year round room I can keep them in during the coldest months. Would it be possible to find out if your designer is still able to make one? Thanks so much!

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              July 25, 2022 at 10:51 am

              Hi Caroline, and welcome to SC! Yes, I’ll email you with the contact info for the engineer who built our pot-moving device.

          • Reply
            Cathy Persch
            June 28, 2022 at 4:06 am

            That looks awesome and like a fantastic time saver! It would probably work well for other large plant pots too (container grower here!!) would your friend still potentially be able to make something like this? Happy to pay for something so sturdy and versatile! As for the name, I liked the tree truck suggestion I saw in the comments

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              June 28, 2022 at 11:00 am

              Hi Cathy! Yes, this pot moving device is a huge time saver. I can move 20 huge potted fruit trees in ~15 minutes. Frankly, there’s no way we could grow as much citrus and other tropical fruit trees as we do if we didn’t have our custom pot mover. I’ll email you right now with the contact info for our friend who built it so you can reach out.

          • Reply
            Alok
            May 14, 2022 at 7:08 pm

            Hi, my wife and I also have some plants that need to be moved indoors in the winter and I am very interested in the pot-moving device. Is it possible for you to connect me your engineer friend? It would be a lifesaver for us, thank you!

          • Reply
            larissa
            March 1, 2022 at 9:47 pm

            How much are you selling them for?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 2, 2022 at 3:36 pm

              Hi Larissa! We don’t make or sell them. This pot mover was custom built for us by an engineer friend. You can reach out to him to see what he’d charge to make one for you. His name is John Robertson; reach him here: john at rrci.com (spelled out to prevent bot spam).

          • Reply
            Greg Cooper
            February 18, 2022 at 8:33 am

            I’m very interested in this amazing invention. Would you be kind enough to share? Thank you, Cooper

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              February 18, 2022 at 11:53 am

              Hi Greg! Wow, just realized we’ve now had our custom pot moving device for four years now. It still works as good as new. Anyway, I’m going to email you privately to share contact information for John Robertson, the engineer who built our pot mover for us. He could likely build one for you as well.

          • Reply
            Douglas Schilly
            March 14, 2021 at 2:35 pm

            How far have you all gotten with this device? Are there any available for sale? Is the designer available to make one….for a price? Any idea what one would cost? My wife and I have several huge potted citrus trees that we constantly find ourselves moving. Ive looked at the PotWheelz but something about it makes me question it. Ive designed some devices myself but the geometry and physics of the task complicate the need to be able to move a variety of sizes of planters. Hope all is well and hope to hear back from you on this subject.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              March 15, 2021 at 7:40 am

              Hi Douglas! Our pot mover is still working perfectly 3 years later. I’ve had to replace the tires once but that’s it. It’s built like a tank, and will probably outlive me – ha. I’m not sure the cost but it wouldn’t be cheap since: a) it’s hand-built by an engineer who lives here in the US, b) it’s not mass-produced, c) it’s really high quality/durable. My guess is it would be around $500. Let me know if you’re interested and I’ll connect you via email to the gentleman who built it. We have about 20 large tropical fruit trees and it’s an absolute life-saver (and back saver) for me.

              • Reply
                Anne Helgeson
                October 1, 2023 at 3:01 pm

                Hello, I’m interested in one of those gorgeous plant movers! Could you please connect me up with Mr Robertson? My parents live in MN and move lots of warm weather plants inside every winter. Thank you!!

                • Aaron von Frank
                  October 2, 2023 at 8:21 am

                  Hi Anne! Unfortunately, Mr. Robertson isn’t able to build any more pot movers at this time, but if you know a welder or someone handy, they could perhaps use the designs in this article for inspiration to build you one. Best of luck!

          • Reply
            Valerie Mercer
            January 16, 2018 at 8:00 pm

            I think it should be called Grab ‘n Go Mover or Grab ‘n Go Pot Mover
            Valerie M

          • Reply
            Douglas R
            January 16, 2018 at 1:25 pm

            Plantsport or maybe Treetruck, either should be trademarkable.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              January 16, 2018 at 1:35 pm

              Good ideas, thanks Douglas! Especially like the TreeTruck name. 🙂

          • Reply
            Marie Viljoen
            January 15, 2018 at 5:31 pm

            That looks fantastic! Especially as someone who has moved house twice with big pots. Especially as someone who is typing semi supine because her back just went on strike. Back Saver. Back Friend. Come to mama. I’d buy one.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              January 16, 2018 at 12:10 pm

              Sorry to hear about your back problems, Marie! I pulled my back last year and those are the worst injuries because they render you pretty much physically useless. Hopefully, you’ll get better soon. Maybe some pilates, yoga, and/or weight training are in your future once you get back to normal to try to prevent future occurrences. 🙂 I’m going to message you on facebook with a question.

          • Reply
            Jodi Rodner
            January 15, 2018 at 5:16 pm

            How about the “Trans-pot-tation gripper” or something similar? It’s catchy!

          Leave a Reply

          Recipe Rating




          Ducks

          What to Feed Ducks and Ducklings

          Where to Buy Organic Duck Feed (& Duckling Feed) thumbnail

          Want organic duck eggs from your backyard flock? Then you’ll need to know where to buy organic duck and duckling feed.


          We may have the most spoiled-rotten flock of ducks on the planet. Our Welsh Harlequins have two humans that dote on their every need, including tucking them into their coop at night, building them a 1,200 gallon in-ground pool with waterfalls, tending entire garden beds to grow them their favorite duck veggies, and ensuring that their food bowls always overfloweth.

          A typical duck greeting is:

          A typical duck greeting is: “What offerings have you brought for me today? In this case, Svetlana the Duck is enjoying a nice bowl of winter chickweed.

          In all fairness, the relationship isn’t totally one-sided. Our ducks give us duck eggs, added soil fertility, pest insect control, and limitless amounts of entertainment in return. (Ducks are goofy and hilarious creatures.)

          If you have backyard ducks, or are considering getting ducklings, you’ll need to know what to feed them. And you’re in the right place, because we’re going to share everything you need to know about feeding your ducks–whether duckling or adult, whether they’re laying eggs or not.

          Duck nutrition: what & when to feed your ducks

          As with humans, a good diet is critically important to the health of your ducks.

          Where to Buy Organic Duck Feed (& Duckling Feed) by Tyrant Farms / What to feed ducks

          Ok, which one of you broke into the strawberry patch? Pippa the duck looks guilty, but she swears she’s innocent. 

          Here are some important things you need to know about ducks in order to make sure you’re getting your ducks the nutrition they need to be healthy: 

          1. Ducks have different dietary needs than chickens. 

          As waterfowl, ducks have different dietary needs than their feathered land-dwelling cousins. Ducks can do just fine on a chicken feed base, but you’d need to make some modifications like adding Niacin (Vitamin B3) to their feed.

          Instead, we simply recommend getting duck feed that’s been specifically formulated for ducks.

          2. Ducks’ nutritional requirements vary at different life stages and based on their sex.

          From duckling to full-grown duck momma, each life stage has slightly different nutritional requirements. One of our ducklings happily sleeps on their mom's back.

          From duckling to mature egg laying duck, each stage of life requires slightly different nutritional requirements for a duck. Image: one of our ducklings happily sleeps on momma duck’s back.

          There are three distinct types of duck food & supplementation you’ll need for your flock depending on their sex (male or female) and life stage (scroll to the bottom for a handy chart): 

          1. starter feed – 0-8 weeks
          2. maintainer feed – for drakes (male ducks) or non-laying female ducks 8+ weeks or older
          3. layer feed – for laying ducks

          Now, let’s jump into the details of each one… 

          STAGE 1: DUCK STARTER FEED (0-8 weeks) 

          Ducklings require higher levels of protein the first few weeks of life:

          • 0-2 weeks – 18-20% protein;
          • 3 weeks – at 3 weeks old we bump the protein levels of our duckling food down to 15-16% by mixing in 20% oats to their crumble.

          Lowering a duckling’s protein intake at week 3 encourages them to grow at a healthy, normal rate vs. the more accelerated rate commonly recommended for broilers & commercial egg layers (as per duck expert, Dave Holderread, in Storay’s Guide To Raising Ducks). Also note that sustained higher levels of protein can cause leg and wing deformities in addition to causing kidney and liver damage.

          If you’re like us, your ducks are as much pets/family members as they are production animals, so you want them to be as healthy as possible for as long a life as possible. The goal is NOT to make them as big as possible as fast as possible or to lay as many eggs as possible. 

          A FEW IMPORTANT THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT STAGE 1:

          Note 1: Niacin (Vitamin B3)

          It’s very important that either: a) your ducklings get duckling-specific starter food (not for chickens), or b) if you buy starter meant for chicks that you enrich it with niacin, which is really easy to do.

          Because ducklings grow faster than chicks, chick starter does not have the niacin levels that are optimal for ducklings. NRC requirements for ducklings = 55 mg/kg niacin compared to only 27-35 mg/kg for chicks.

          If ducklings don’t have the nutrition to support proper bone and muscle development (such as not enough niacin), they could end up with leg deformities and other lifelong health problems.

          Here’s an AWESOME article by Metzer farms about duckling leg problems & Vitamin B-Complex supplementation with measurements and calculations for adding it to their food or water. We typically add 2 tablespoons brewers yeast per cup of crumble or 100mg B-Complex/gallon water. You can order either form of Niacin easily via Amazon:

          All of our ducklings loved brewers yeast and, even though we bought duckling-specific starter, we’d still sprinkle some Brewers Yeast in with their veggie treats (kale, tomatoes, etc.) just because they enjoyed it. Also, if your ducklings are eating a lot of nutrient-dense organic veggies like kale, niacin deficiency isn’t as much of a concern.

          We’ve also found that Brewers Yeast sprinkled on kale with a bit of olive oil, lemon or lime juice, & salt makes an incredibly tasty snack for us humans! Why should our birds get to eat all the good stuff?! 

          Ducklings snacking on fresh-picked garden greens in a bowl of water + nutritional yeast. Yummy! ;)

          Ducklings snacking on fresh-picked garden greens in a bowl of water with added nutritional/brewers yeast. Yummy! 😉 If you look to the bottom left, you can also see a small bowl of duckling mash that’s had some water added to it – this keeps the ducklings from choking on their crumble. More on that below… 

          Note 2: Ducklings choke on dry crumble.

          Ducklings constantly eat, and each time they do you’d think they’d never seen food before. They voraciously wolf their food down and often times will choke on the dry crumble.

          Pro tip: Stir in enough water to their crumble to make a wet mash (the consistency of oatmeal). This also helps ensure an even mixture of brewer’s yeast if you’re adding niacin to their food.

          Note 3: Don’t use medicated feed. 

          If you’re reading an article about where to buy organic duck food, you’re probably not going to feed your ducklings medicated chick starter. BUT just in case, I’m going to say it: Don’t feed your ducklings medicated chick starter.

          Ducklings eat more food than chicks of the same weight and can consume higher levels of the antibiotic than is safe for them. Additionally, many of the bacterial infections that chicks get, ducklings aren’t susceptible to so there’s no reason to medicate them. 

          In fact, that’s another reason we love ducks: in our humid/wet climate, they’re much less susceptible to diseases and illness than chickens are. 

          What's happier than a family photo with new ducklings? Proud parents, Jackson (white duck on the right) & Winston (black head with orange feed in the back), with their new ducklings. / Where to Buy Organic Duck Feed (& Duckling Feed) by Tyrant Farms

          What’s happier than a family photo with new ducklings? Proud parents, Jackson (white duck on the right) & Winston (black head with orange feed in the back), with their new ducklings.

          STAGE 2: MAINTAINER FEED (8+ weeks & non-laying birds) 

          When your adolescent & adult female ducks (hens) aren’t laying, they’ll need “maintainer” duck food (13-15% protein). Your adult males (drakes) will need maintainer from 8 weeks on.

          STAGE 3: LAYER FEED (mature egg-laying hens) 

          When your hens start laying, make sure they start getting duck-specific *layer feed (16-17% protein, 2.5-3% calcium). Layer duck feed has more protein, calcium, and other vitamins & minerals in it than maintainer feed. This extra nutrition is critical to the health of a laying hen.

          *Again, in our opinion, your goal should be to grow healthy ducks, not to produce the most possible eggs from each hen. Giving your laying hens 100% layer feed can cause them to lay too frequently over a longer period of time than is good for their health. Issues arising from over-active reproductive tracts are likely one of the leading causes of death and illness in backyard ducks.

          Sisters, Svetlana (L) & Jackson (R) co-nesting. / Where to Buy Organic Duck Feed (& Duckling Feed) by Tyrant Farms

          Sisters, Svetlana (left) & Jackson (right) co-nesting inside our house. (It’s a long story, but a cute picture.) 

          Layer & Maintainer feed combo for optimal health

          We recommend mixing maintainer and layer while your ducks are laying, giving them the nutrition they need without stimulating them to over-produce eggs. It may take some playing around with the formula to see what ratio of layer:non-layer feed works best for your flock.

          We usually start with a mix of 30% layer feed : 70% maintenance feed and increase (or decrease) the percentage of layer in the mix as needed. Hens who aren’t getting enough calcium will lay eggs with thin shells and soft-shelled eggs. 

          If you see thin/soft egg shells, the laying duck is likely nutritionally depleted and needs to stop laying. Here’s a really handy egg shell trouble-shooting chart.

          Storay’s Guide To Raising Ducks recommends that you start your mature ducks on layer feed three weeks prior to them actually laying eggs. How do you know when your ducks are going to start laying? Here’s how we do it.

          Sound too complicated? Another option is to just have a bowl of loose calcium available for your ducks, such as pulverized oyster shell (that’s a link to the only brand we can get our very picky ducks to eat). This allows them to take in additional calcium as they feel their bodies need it.

          You can then immediately switch to layer feed the day the first egg arrives. It’s also important to remember to switch them back to maintenance (non-layer) feed once they stop laying to make sure they’re not getting too much calcium and protein, which can cause health problems.

          If you’re curious about mineral breakdown and other more in-depth info about duck food than we can cover here, Metzer Farms has a helpful chart.

          organic duck feed

          The girls acting like typical sisters – stealing from each other and fighting over their things. My tomatoes! No, mine! 

          July 2019 update: Maintainer feed only?

          Ok, not to complicate things too much, but… After multiple, long conversations with our avian vet, Dr. Hurlbert at HealthPointe Veterinary Clinic, about ideal nutrition and duck feed for laying ducks, we wanted to update this section with another possible duck feed regimen. 

          Dr. Hurlbert sees LOTS of egg-laying ducks as patients who are getting quality layer feed, but who are still having reproductive health problems such as soft eggs, egg binding, etc. In her opinion, she thinks duck pet owners who care more about their ducks’ health than the quantity of eggs they lay should do the following:

          • use maintainer feed even when your ducks are laying eggs;
          • always make a calcium supplement like oyster shell available so your girls can get as much calcium as they need when/if they need it; 
          • only mix in layer feed if you notice the egg shells becoming less calcified or your ducks lay soft eggs (ratio 25-50% layer feed: 75-50% maintainer feed); 
          • continue to let your ducks forage and offer them other treats like greens, tomatoes, etc as you see fit. 

          Under this feed regimen, your ducks are likely to lay fewer eggs each year, but have fewer health problems and live longer, healthier lives.

          Visualize a seesaw: on one side of the seesaw is duck health and longevity; on the other side is a pile of duck eggs. Which side of the seesaw do you value most?   

          Best available duck feed (including where to buy organic duck feed)

          We’ve read about and used lots of different types of duck feed. We also talk regularly with avian vets and other experts who know a lot about duck health and nutrition.

          Here’s a list of duck food brands we recommend:

          McGeary Organics (mash & pellets)

          USDA Certified Organic. We started and raised our flock on McGeary and have loved it each time.

          A complicated illness in our flock (unrelated to feed) led us to follow our vet’s advice and switch to Mazuri Waterfowl for our adult birds. We still use McGeary any time we raise ducklings.

          Feed types available:

          • Waterfowl starter
          • Waterfowl maintenance
          • Waterfowl breeder (layer)

          Scratch and Peck Feed (whole grains)

          USDA Certified Organic. Scratch & Peck’s whole line of feed is excellent in terms of quality and we found their customer service to be top notch (the one time we needed to use it), but we offer some words of caution: If you’ve never fed a whole grain feed before, make sure you keep an eye on your ducks to ensure they’re eating *everything*, not just the grains or corn.

          Some of our hens picked out what they enjoyed eating and left the nutritious things (like the minerals and other fines that are separate in a non-pelleted feed product) in the bowl and weren’t getting a balanced diet. They also didn’t like to eat fermented food (which is the recommended way to offer whole grain feed for the most bio-available nutrition – more on that below), and if it’s not mixed with water it allows your birds the opportunity to be picky eaters.

          If you’re looking for a high-quality whole grain, fermentable organic duck feed, Scratch & Peck has it. It’s a bit more expensive if you can’t find it locally, but you get what you pay for.

          Feed types available:

          • Chicken starter (you’ll want to add Niacin/B-Complex vitamins to this starter, as mentioned above)
          • Chicken maintenance
          • Chicken layer 

          Mazuri Waterfowl (pellets)

          NOT CERTIFIED ORGANIC, but it’s being added to this list b/c it’s recommended by literally EVERY waterfowl rescue, zoo, and vet we’ve spoken to – including our own. You’re guaranteed to get great waterfowl-specific nutrition and not have to worry about your ducks picking out the pieces they like and leaving other things they actually need in the bowl.

          If certified organic food and organic eggs aren’t as important to you as making sure your ducks are healthy, we’d recommend this brand.

          Feed types available:

          • Waterfowl starter
          • Waterfowl maintenance
          • Waterfowl breeder (layer)

          Mixing your own duck feed

          Sometime it’s practical to mix your own duck feed using multiple brands (or life stage-specific types) of feed. This really comes in handy when you have a 10 lb bag of starter and you want to use it up, but you don’t want to feed your birds that much protein, so you mix it with another bag of feed.

          Because feed mixing errors can cause all kinds of health issues, you’ll want to make sure you are using proper ratios and your birds are getting the proper nutrition they need to be healthy. Metzer Farm’s has a very helpful calculator to make sure you’re mixing things in proper ratios.

          One of our hens, Jackson, warming up her ducklings on a cool spring morning. / Where to Buy Organic Duck Feed (& Duckling Feed) by Tyrant Farms / what to feed your ducks and ducklings

          One of our hens, Jackson, warming up her ducklings on a cool spring morning.

          Sprouting grains & fermenting feed for ducks

          Sprouted and fermented grains are excellent for your duck’s health, providing lots of nutrition and promoting beneficial microbes within their digestive systems. Do you have to feed your ducks sprouted grains and fermented feed? Nope. But it can improve their health, even if you just give it to them once per month or so.

          Also, the healthier your ducks, the more nutritious their eggs will be! 

          Here are three excellent sources to help you learn more about using these supplemental fermented foods for your ducks:

          Welsh Harlequin ducks foraging in a white clover patch.

          Some of our Welsh Harlequin ducks foraging for insects in a white clover patch.

          Treats & poisonous plants

          Ducks LOVE treats. But make them healthy treats!

          If you’re a regular Tyrant Farms reader, you know we’re avid organic gardeners – so, it only makes sense that we garden for our ducks as well! Be sure to check out our post: Top 10 Garden Plants to Grow for Ducks & Chickens.

          Say NO to bread, as this can become a gelatinous blob in their crops and cause all kinds of digestive problems. On that note, if you absolutely feel compelled to feed wild ducks at a nearby lake or pond, use cat or dog food kibbles, NOT bread. Or better yet, if you don’t have duck food, don’t feed them at all.

          Our ducks absolute favorite treats in the summer are fresh-picked tomatoes.

          In the cool months, they gorge on virtually every type of salad green we grow in our organic garden.

          To help you figure out what treats to give your ducks and what plants/foods to make sure they avoid, here are two good resources:

          Don't be too nervous about letting your ducks forage. Our flock gets to

          Don’t be too nervous about letting your ducks forage. Our flock gets to “walk the grounds” throughout our gardens every night and they’ve never eaten any plant that made them sick. They seem to have pretty good natural instincts about what they should and shouldn’t eat.

          Nutritional breakdown of required duckling and duck feed.

          We hope this article helps your flock live better, healthier lives and enjoy the most nutritious duck eggs possible! 
           


           
          the impractical guide to keeping pet and backyard ducks banner

          white-duck-featured-image
          …And be sure to check out our other articles about raising pet and backyard ducks!

          14 Comments

          • Reply
            Jeanne
            February 3, 2021 at 5:20 pm

            We’re getting ready for our first ducks this spring—thank you for all the information! Do you have a recommended feed during their “adolescent” stage?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              February 4, 2021 at 10:57 am

              Hi Jeanne! Glad to hear you’re getting ready for ducks in advance of the big day! We have a detailed “How to raise ducklings” guide which includes duckling dietary recommendations here: https://www.tyrantfarms.com/how-to-raise-ducklings-a-step-by-step-guide/. We’d highly suggest you read through that info, as it will (hopefully) answer all your questions. If not, please let us know and we’ll be happy to help.

          • Reply
            Elizabeth
            January 7, 2021 at 4:15 pm

            Hey there! I’m wondering what the best feed would be for my three call duck pets. I was using mazuri waterfowl, but one of my girls literally almost choked on it today and scared me pretty badly. She couldn’t get it down her throat so I immediately took the food out and vowed to never again let them try to swallow the pellets whole.

            I usually crush it for them since I know it’s very nutritious and one of the best duck feeds out there, but I fear it’s too dusty to be safe because they may inhale it often. So I’m looking for an alternative. Do you have any advice? Thank you! 🙂

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              January 8, 2021 at 11:39 am

              Hi Elizabeth! Since Mazuri waterfowl feed is a great feed, a couple of options there:
              a) you could put the feed in water when you give it to them so the pellets go down their throats easier (the pellets are actually designed to float and that’s how zoos often feed waterfowl);
              b) you could pulverize the pellets and add enough water to a serving to reach a porridge-like consistency and give that to your call ducks.

              If you’re planning to switch to a crumble feed, those are pretty dusty in texture as well. You’ll notice your ducks doing a bit of gagging after each bite. So, you’d probably want to add water to the crumble to bring it to porridge consistency. But at that point, you could have just as easily have done the same thing with your pulverized Mazuri kibble. 😛

              Hope this input helps and best of luck to you and your flock!

              • Reply
                Elizabeth
                January 12, 2021 at 6:36 pm

                Hi there, thank you Aaron!

                I’m thinking I may try the mazuri pellets with water. In this case, would you recommend offering the water+pellets 2 times daily, maybe in the morning and afternoon?

          • Reply
            Autumn
            September 27, 2020 at 2:59 am

            Hi Aaron!
            Thank you for all the great info! We are certainly learning as we go. We rescued 3 baby mallards almost 2 weeks ago (we’re in New Zealand so it’s spring here). I think they were only a day or two old when we found them (they were 32 grams). We’ve had them inside and are feeding them chick starter with added brewers yeast and adding water to keep it quite soupy. Now that we think they are about 2 weeks old, should we stop adding water to the chick starter? If so, should we do that slowly and make the food thicker and thicker until it’s dry? Thank you!

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              September 27, 2020 at 1:36 pm

              Hi Autumn! First, thanks for rescuing the ducklings and for taking such good care of them. There are two reasons to add water to the crumble:
              1) to help keep the ducklings from gagging and choking due to its dry, powdery texture; and
              2) to help mix in the nutritional yeast/niacin.

              You can reduce the ratio of water you add to the crumble, but you’ll probably want to keep adding some water to the crumble for a few more weeks, as per our guide in this article. Or if you decide to go ahead and switch to non-watered crumble, just make sure there’s a bowl of water close by for them to access and keep a close eye initially to see if it looks like they’re having any trouble swallowing it. Best of luck to you and your ducklings!

          • Reply
            friendlytoanimals
            June 30, 2020 at 2:18 pm

            Thank you so much for this article. I’ve read it several times since getting ducklings in May and really appreciate your focus on duck well being over egg production (Storys guide just grossed me out, being all about meat and eggs). We gave them Scratch and Peck starter with tons of extra nutritional yeast (our young drake grew much faster than the girls and got wobbly legs – took 20 days of Durvet vitamin B complex daily, but the shakes are almost entirely gone now). About a week ago we switched to Scratch and Peck grower, mixing in some oats to lower the protein. Problem is, they don’t like it. Everyday I’m doing all I can to try to coax my ducks to eat even just a little duck food. All they want to do is forage (or be hand fed fresh kale all day).
            The switch to the grower feed and more foraging freedom took place at the same time and I think they discovered that they just like slugs and such more than duck food. They are about 8 weeks old. Quality duck food is expensive, so I’d hate to waste the Scratch and Peck, but do I need to just try a different brand? Is there anything that would entice them to eat a feed that they don’t love?
            Also, once they are foraging, how much duck feed should they be eating each day? I can find so much information about the recommended nutritional breakdown of the feed, but nothing about how much feed they need.
            Thank you so much for any guidance!

          • Reply
            Kevin Heimann
            May 27, 2020 at 8:07 am

            Thank you for the excellent article and, for that matter, all of your articles/blog – your content is a go-to resource for us as we start our duck journey (including pond creation). Regarding your recommendation for starter duck feed – I take McGreary’s offering to be your preference; would you mind confirming that the Virtuous line is what you use?

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              May 27, 2020 at 10:30 am

              Hi Kevin! Thanks for the kind words and glad to hear our articles have been helpful for you. Yes, you are correct: any time we raise ducklings, we start them on McGeary. If I’m not mistaken, McGeary is no longer certified organic, but they still source and operate the same way, they just don’t get certified. Since this article was originally written, they’ve also added “Virtuous” to their product branding. Sorry for any confusion. Let us know if you have any other questions as you move along.

          • Reply
            Kat
            July 5, 2019 at 10:13 am

            I have a unique story and I was hoping you could help me. So I work at a hospital and a wild duck had her babies in one of our courtyards. Very safe, but no water and no way out. (except flying of course) Skip ahead, the mom stayed and raised the one baby that survived for the first two or so weeks but ultimately left to go make another batch. This is where I came in. I found your site, this page in particular, and sprung into action. I fed her baby duck crumble and now shes 2-3 months old (I wasn’t keeping track) Her wings have that blue stripe in them so are her wings grown enough to fly? My worries are, will she still fly with no one to teach her? I’ve seen her trying, but i’m a first time mother, so I don’t know what to expect. What if she never flies? She’s all alone. Her mother did raise her to be afraid of humans so i’m not worried about her being too domesticated, but I want her to be free and happy with a much bigger water source.

            Also, flaky duck mom? Had her second brood in the other courtyard with no water and no way out. I wasn’t ready for more babies.

            • Reply
              Aaron von Frank
              July 5, 2019 at 11:01 am

              Oh, wow! That’s a lot of responsibility you took on, Kat. Thank you for caring. If the 2-3 month old duck is otherwise healthy, she should be able to fly on her own. Is she still in the courtyard? Somewhere else? It’s possible that she just hasn’t had the opportunity to build enough muscle strength in her wings to actually take flight. Under the circumstances, you might want to contact a local wildlife rehab facility and ask for their input. They may be able to take her and get her trained up for living the wild duck life.

              As for the second nest, this sounds like another bad situation in the making. Baby ducklings need an incredible amount of food and water, beyond what a momma duck is going to be able to fly in. That’s why they typically nest/lay near ponds, lakes, and other bodies of water and get the ducklings out drinking and foraging soon after hatching. Ducks are not like songbirds, which bring back food and water to un-flighted hatchlings in their beaks. Those new eggs are destined to become dead ducklings. Again, this sounds like a situation where you may want to call a local wildlife rehab, because the best bet to ensure their survival might be taking the eggs and hatching them in an incubator, and also doing everything possible to discourage the momma duck from laying eggs in this spot again.

              If there was a way out of the courtyard and a nearby water source, our advice would be to let momma duck do her thing. Unfortunately, she’s chosen a nesting site that all but guarantees a bad outcome so intervention is necessary.

          • Reply
            Ryan Coatney
            April 8, 2017 at 9:58 pm

            Can they not forage for their food? Caterpillars, slugs, etc? I’m about to get into the world of duck keeping, and my hope is that during spring, summer, and fall they can subsist primarily off what they find around the yard and of course the garden.

            • Reply
              Aaron
              October 13, 2017 at 3:28 pm

              Hi Ryan! Sorry we missed this comment. Yes, they can get a lot of their food from foraging, but not all of it. Couple points there:
              1. Bred varieties lay far more eggs than wild ducks will and therefore need more food and higher levels of macro and micronutrients to remain healthy.
              2. Unless they have a pretty large area to forage in that’s chock full of insects, edible plants, etc, there’s virtually no way for them to find enough foraged food to fulfill their full dietary needs.

              You’ll want to make sure they have access to waterfowl-specific food to ensure they stay healthy. Ours forage constantly for the fun of it and to supplement their diet with treats like snails and worms, but they likely wouldn’t be healthy or survive long without us feeding them.

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