Ducks

How to treat bumblefoot in ducks – safely, effectively, and humanely (with video!)

How to treat bumblefoot in ducks - safely, effectively, and humanely (with video!) thumbnail

Bumblefoot is a common and potentially life-threatening bacterial infection ducks and other poultry get on their feet. In this article, you’ll find out how to identify, prevent, and treat bumblefoot in ducks. 


Ducks: ungraceful land animals, prone to bumblefoot

As you may have noticed, ducks are shaped like a canoe with two oars sticking out of the base. While their shape makes them capable of impressive feats of mobility in water and air, they are not very graceful land animals. 

Our feathered family members are adorable to watch waddling and running around our yard. However, their clunky flippers take quite a beating as they go.

Objectively, these are not very attractive feet. However, as duck parents, we find duck flippers to be positively adorable.

Objectively, these are not very attractive feet. However, as duck parents, we find duck flippers to be positively adorable.

Each evening, we play babysitter to our ducks since we let them out of their fenced backyard to forage our full gardens. During this time, we also give them treats, pet them, and hold them.

This process helps make sure our ducks remain acclimated to being touched by humans while also allowing us to do quick nightly health checks to make sure everyone is doing well. As with people, prevention or early diagnosis of health problems in ducks is far easier to deal with than treatment of an established illness or disease.  

(Read our article How to get your ducks to like you.)

One health check we regularly do on our ducks is “flipper checks.” One person picks the duck up and turns her over while the other inspects the flippers for cuts, scrapes, or “bumblefoot.”  

Uh oh, a flipper check reveals a duck with bumblefoot.

Uh oh, a flipper check reveals a duck with bumblefoot.

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24 Comments

  • Reply
    lizzy
    June 5, 2023 at 3:33 pm

    I took my duck to the emergency vet this weekend for bumblefoot, she didn’t have an infection but I did get some good advise. The avian vet there said not to use hydrogen peroxide or epsom salt because both can dry out their feet more. I was told to use A+D original ointment, it’s found in the baby section for diaper rash. It helps to keep the feet moisturized. Soak the feet in just some warm water and them massage the ointment into all the crack and crevices, I did this before bed time. The vet’s main emphasis was on the substrate though, grass and sand were her recommendations for best foot health, also plenty of shade to minimize the ground’s temperature.

    • Reply
      lizzy
      June 5, 2023 at 3:36 pm

      The vet also said not to cover the feet when there is bumblefoot because it will trap bacteria leading to infection

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        June 6, 2023 at 4:02 pm

        Thanks for your input, Lizzy! There isn’t one single way to treat bumblefoot. Seasoned duck people we know all have slightly different methods. The method we’ve developed (with input from our avian vet) and used for over a decade to treat bumblefoot on our ducks has been 100% effective for us so far. We haven’t had any problems with wet feet or worsening infections during treatment with the “duck shoes” on, but we do have a warning/caution section in the article stating that we’ll temporarily cease treatment if there are multiple days of rain.

        I do have to give some pushback on the grass and sand substrate recommendation from your vet. For anyone who raises ducks in a relatively confined area where rain is regular, their grass will soon disappear and be replaced by mud (that’s how ducks roll!). Sand would be quickly turned into a poopy mess as well. That’s why we recommend bedding (for people who have their ducks in a run by day) or finely ground mulch for people like us whose ducks live in a fairly large fenced back yard by day. People who think ducks are dirty and stinky are shocked when they see and smell our yard and duck living areas, because they are neither dirty nor stinky. Triple ground mulch is a major reason for that. Granted, even finely ground mulch can be a little rough on duck feet, but we’ve never had bumblefoot on any of our ducks that required veterinary care. Cases were either mild enough to heal up on their own or we treated them effectively at home.

        Again, thanks for your comments and fingers crossed your duck’s bumblefoot clears up soon!

  • Reply
    Mandee
    August 13, 2021 at 12:29 pm

    Hi there! Love your posts!!! So informative so thank you!
    My one little Cayuga lady has what I believe is bumblefoot – https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10158980437535709&set=a.10150319453350709&type=3

    I have been soaking every other day with epson salt and a drawling salve. She hasn’t let me keep shoes on so I’m going to try doing it at end of day when they go back into pen. I think my hubby was prescribed silvadene for a burn so maybe I’ll switch to that. Her foot is warm but honestly their feet always are warm. It’s been three weeks. Hasn’t gotten bigger.
    I’m too scared to pull it out tho and risk more infection and an open wound. Will it fall out on its own?
    Thanks for any guidance

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 14, 2021 at 7:57 am

      Hi Mandee! Thanks for your kind words. Yes, that’s definitely bumblefoot in your Cayuga. Good news: it’s not a very bad case of bumblefoot. If your duck is otherwise healthy, she’ll almost certainly be able to push the infection out on her own, especially with your TLC. Be patient – it may take 3-6+ weeks for the infection to push out. Hopefully, it will be on the lower end of that spectrum given your care regimen. Regardless, you definitely don’t want to do at-home surgery under the circumstances. FYI: it looks like there’s at least one spot on her flipper where she’s had a previous bumblefoot infection that healed (the toe on the opposite side), so you know what that looks like. Best of luck!

  • Reply
    Sandra Madden
    August 10, 2021 at 3:49 pm

    Can bumblefoot resolve on its own?? This past weekend I discovered a large black spot on my duck’s heel pad and a small spot that I can’t tell if it’s bumblefoot or just scar tissue from losing the nail on small toe. I’ve been treating it with 2x daily epsom salt soaks and vetrimycin, with a gauze pad and vet wrap afterwards (shoes are on order). The big scab came off easily after the first soak with smooth scar tissue underneath, the little one just bleeds and re-forms (tried 3 times so far). The entire foot and lower leg are warm to the touch, compared the other one, even after soaking in cool water, but there’s no discoloration or any other sign of infection.

    Since her bandage isn’t waterproof, I’ve been keeping her separated but near her friends. However, she’s not really eating either (not even mealworm treats). I’m not sure if it’s because of her foot or because she’s upset/depressed about being isolated. If there are no open wounds, can she hang out with the others and swim in their pools? Or does she need to stay isolated and maybe even see the vet?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 11, 2021 at 12:32 pm

      Yes, bumblefoot *can* resolve on its own, as we know from personal experience – with caveats. For instance, since our ducks do a good bit of free-ranging, they’re more prone to bumblefoot, which happens when small cuts and scrapes get infected by certain strains of bacteria that are environmentally ubiquitous. 9 out of 10 times, we just monitor their “bumbles” and they resolve over the course of a month or so. However, sometimes they don’t resolve. It’s hard to say exactly when/why one case of bumblefoot will resolve and others won’t. Our guess is that it has to do with a combination of factors, namely:

      1) how bad the initial cut and infection are (deeper and larger cuts/infections will be harder to heal on their own);
      2) the overall health of the duck (healthier ducks will fight off bumblefoot more easily than less healthy ducks).

      Since your duck’s entire leg feels warm to the touch, that likely indicates a deeper, more pervasive infection that warrants an analysis by an avian vet. It may require a course of antibiotics to prevent the infection from continuing further and/or entering her bloodstream. Or there may be some other unrelated injury or infection causing her leg to be warm (example: septic arthritis).

      Since the bacteria that cause bumblefoot are literally everywhere, there’s no reason to isolate a duck with bumblefoot from others except immediately after topical antibiotics are first applied. Maybe try letting her back with her flock to see if that helps boost her spirits and appetite.

      Again, unfortunately it sounds like you’ll need to get her leg evaluated by an avian vet to determine exactly what’s going on and how to address it. The sooner you can get her in for a visit, the better. Best of luck and please check back to let us know what your vet finds!

  • Reply
    Kate
    May 28, 2021 at 10:40 am

    Follow up question – is it ok if they splash around in their water bowls with the silver ointment on their foot? Is there any risk if they drink it?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 28, 2021 at 1:57 pm

      Hi again, Kate! We like to give our girls about 30 minutes to let the medication/Silvadene sink in to the infected tissue prior to giving them access to a pool or any water source they could use to remove the medication. It’s generally not a great idea to administer oral antibiotics to animals or people unless they really need them (even in small doses) since it can kill beneficial bacteria in the GI system, cause dysbiosis, etc. If your ducks are splashing their treated feet in their water bowl shortly after the Silvadene is applied, it’s going to be really diluted down, but still not an ideal situation. So do try to keep them out of water until the cream has had time to absorb.

  • Reply
    Kate
    April 3, 2021 at 10:15 pm

    I wanted to share another source that we found in case it is helpful to others. https://crazy-k-farm.myshopify.com/collections/poultry/products/birdy-bootie-hand-made-in-the-usa
    We ordered these with rush shipping and got them within the week. Now, if anyone has advice about how to keep my duck from ripping hers off I would appreciate it! Duct tape didn’t work 🙂

  • Reply
    Feliciana Mitchell
    January 13, 2021 at 7:44 pm

    Hello,
    I think my duck may have infected bumblefoot. How do I tell if it is infected? And do I treat it any different if it does?
    Thanks!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      January 14, 2021 at 10:42 am

      Hi Feliciana! All bumblefoot is technically an infection, even if it is only a small spot and has not spread to other tissue or bone. Are you saying that you think the bumblefoot infection in your duck has spread beyond an isolated spot? If so, you may need to get your duck to a vet asap, especially if the infection has reached the bone. Indications for that level of infection are: swollen joints, duck unable to walk and/or limping, and the area feeling hot to the touch. For bumblefoot infections that serious, immediate treatment with antibiotics are almost certainly going to be necessary to save the duck’s life. Best of luck and let us know if you have any questions.

  • Reply
    Feliciana Mitchell
    January 13, 2021 at 7:09 pm

    Thank you! I hope this works and helps for my duck who has bad bumblefoot that is infected

    • Reply
      Feliciana Mitchell
      January 13, 2021 at 7:11 pm

      P.s do you have any good suggestions for infected bumblefoot?

  • Reply
    Jayne
    October 15, 2020 at 2:42 pm

    Thank you so much! This was a very helpful and informative post! We have a chicken with bumble foot right now, and if I hadn’t read this post, I would’ve had no clue what it was or what to do! Thank you so much for this information, and hopefully it will help our chicken!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 15, 2020 at 10:19 pm

      Glad to hear this, Jayne! Hope your chicken’s bumblefoot clears up soon with proper care.

  • Reply
    Elizabeth
    October 11, 2020 at 9:02 am

    Any idea how to treat a bad case of bumblefoot in a duck? Is Penicillin ok for ducks? Is their something else i should use?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 11, 2020 at 3:25 pm

      Hi Elizabeth! If you’re dealing with a bad infection, we highly recommend taking your duck to an avian vet for treatment as it can be life-threatening in severe cases. Since we’re not vets, we’re hesitant to suggest penicillin injections or dosage quantities. You also have to be extremely careful giving a duck injections since a novice could puncture an air sac, causing serious problems. Again, best left to a vet or someone who has been shown where/how to do it by their vet. Best of luck to you and your duck in getting over bumblefoot.

  • Reply
    Elaine
    October 3, 2020 at 3:15 pm

    Hello! Thank you for sharing so many great duck resources and recommendations. I’m building out my ducks first aid kit while also going through the first-time Bumblefoot issue. Do you have a secondary recommendation for the duck shoes? It looks like the Party Fowl site has a significant several week queue. I’ll likely order a pair through them, however trying to find something quicker as well. Thanks again!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 5, 2020 at 10:14 pm

      Hi Elaine! Sorry, we don’t know of another source for duck shoes. We ordered some new pairs from Party Fowl back in August and are still waiting. I think that’s pretty typical. In our case, we don’t need them, they’re just backup for when we do need them and our old ones are worn out or lost. In your case, here’s a possible backup solution (assuming you don’t want to try to stitch together your own neoprene duck shoes): apply the medication to the bumblefoot just before you coop them at night. A lot of the medication will come off in the bedding, but hopefully enough will absorb to be effective. Hope this helps and best of luck with your duck’s bumblefoot. Oh, and one thing we’ve noticed is that 9 out of 10 times our ducks are able to fend off bumblefoot untreated — especially so when they’re not laying eggs and their bodies can put more energy into the fight. So don’t be too stressed if you’re dealing with a mild case.

    • Reply
      Kate
      April 3, 2021 at 10:13 pm

      I wanted to share another source that we found in case it is helpful to others. https://crazy-k-farm.myshopify.com/collections/poultry/products/birdy-bootie-hand-made-in-the-usa
      We ordered these with rush shipping and got them within the week. Now, if anyone has advice about how to keep my duck from ripping hers off I would appreciate it! Duct tape didn’t work 🙂

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        April 4, 2021 at 9:02 am

        Ha! Thanks for sharing your duck shoe source. We’ve found vet wrap to be excellent for keeping duck shoes on. You can wrap it over the top of the shoe and their ankles – not too tight so you don’t cut off circulation.

  • Reply
    Tristiane Masterson-Miller
    September 30, 2020 at 11:48 am

    Hi there, we are dealing with bumblefoot for the first time, thanks for the informative article! One question, do you let the ducks swim with the duck shoe on? We have been keeping ours out of of their pond but it limits their free range area quite a lot and I know swimming is good for their legs and feet. Thank you!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 30, 2020 at 11:02 pm

      Yes, our ducks are able to swim (and walk) just fine with their shoes on. Do note that we apply medication + shoes to their feet at night just before putting them in their coop so that it has plenty of time to absorb in a dry environment and not get washed off. Best of luck treating your duck’s bumblefoot!

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Foraged Gardening

How to grow pawpaw trees (Asimina triloba)

How to grow pawpaw trees (Asimina triloba) thumbnail

Our step-by-step guide, How To Grow Pawpaw Trees, will teach you how to produce your own pawpaw fruit, starting from seed or sapling.


Pawpaws, America’s largest and most delicious native fruit 

Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are our favorite native fruit, topping the list against some formidable competition including wild strawberries (Fragaria virginiana), American persimmons, and passionfruit.

Pawpaw fruit (Asimina triloba) and seeds. Pawpaws are our favorite native fruit.

Pawpaw fruit and seeds. Pawpaws are our favorite native fruit.

When we encountered our first pawpaws many years ago, we couldn’t believe our eyes or taste buds… Here was a mango-sized, native fruit we’d never even heard of that had an exceptional tropical flavor, like banana-mango-cream custard. “Why was this amazing fruit being hidden from the world?” we wondered.

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39 Comments

  • Reply
    James C Anderson
    November 8, 2023 at 3:57 am

    I currently have a small bag of pawpaw seeds in my fridge and am keeping they damp using peat moss. I had planned on putting them into individual smaller pots after 80 to 100 days of refrigeration (which would be in early January) and placing them outside for the remainder of winter. Is this ok to do as long as I keep the pots within some covered insulation (mulch)? Have you ever seen radicles grow from the seeds before you put them in the earth after they have stratified in the refrigerator?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      November 8, 2023 at 1:48 pm

      Hi James! Sounds like a perfectly good plan for your pawpaw seeds. We’ve never seen radicle development on our pawpaw seeds until conditions are ideal for germination, namely: 1) adequate cold stratification, 2) consistent warmer soil temps, AND 3) ideal moisture. You won’t be able to get criteria #2 and #3 met until your seeds are in their smaller pots outdoors. Best of luck!

  • Reply
    jm
    October 3, 2022 at 10:33 am

    Hi,
    I have a pawpaw that I planted. I am on the Mass/NH border. I have about 12 or 13 ripe fruit sitting next to me as I write this. So far we have picked probably 30 ripe fruit. I would be surprised to hear that anyone else around me had any pawpaws growing. So I was curious how they would have set fruit, if you need more than one?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 3, 2022 at 11:01 am

      Interesting, thanks Jason! Do you happen to know if you got a named pawpaw variety or a wild type? As mentioned in the article, we’ve heard various pawpaw breeders claim that they’ve developed self-fertile varieties, so perhaps you have one of those? Or perhaps you got lucky and found a wild pawpaw that happens to be self-fertile.

      Another possibility is that you have wild pawpaws growing fairly close by that you don’t know about. This is a less likely scenario since they’d have to be pretty close to your pawpaw tree for pollination to occur since pawpaws are fly-pollinated, not bee-pollinated. Ergo you’d probably be able to see the wild pawpaw trees without much searching.

      • Reply
        jm
        October 3, 2022 at 11:41 am

        I ordered two trees sometime back. I don’t recall that they were named varieties. But I can’t find the receipt. One of them was run over by the lawnmower not long after it was planted. So I have just the one. There are just other suburban yards immediately around my house. There is a little stream not too far away. But I don’t see anything that looks like a pawpaw tree down there. The nearest one I am aware of is on a farm two towns away from where I live.

  • Reply
    Angela
    April 27, 2022 at 11:11 am

    By genetically different, do you mean not from the parent tree but can be the same variety, or completely different variety?
    Thank you for this post!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      April 28, 2022 at 1:13 pm

      Sorry for any confusion on that point, Angela! By “genetically different” pawpaws we mean pawpaws trees that are not: a) clonal (pawpaws produce a lot of runners and form clonal colonies), or b) the same grafted variety.

      Ideal would be: a) completely different varieties bought from pawpaw breeders, or b) pawpaw trees you grew yourself from seeds sourced at different locations. However, a parent pawpaw could reproduce with its offspring, but the offspring of that pairing might not have the same vigor as trees with more varied genetics.

      Hope this helps!

  • Reply
    Gary Gilino
    September 21, 2021 at 11:12 pm

    Great article on paw paw trees and cultivation! I am new to this plant and am thinking about growing them having just tasted this treat from a local farmers market. Question: if one paw paw fruit has brown seeds and another one has black seeds does that assure that they are genetically different?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 22, 2021 at 12:18 pm

      Hi Gary! I’m speculating here, but my guess would be yes. Pawpaw seeds that comes from fruit from the same tree on our property is pretty uniform in color. This assumes you’re looking at seeds that have just come out of a fruit (e.g. still fresh), not one batch of seeds that’s dry and another batch that’s still fresh/wet.

  • Reply
    Melissa W.
    September 19, 2021 at 3:31 pm

    I have an 8-year-old paw paw tree that has produced flowers for the last three years. I’ve been pollinating them by hand and the last two years, the tree sets fruit but before they can get larger than a cooked grain of rice, they disappear. Is something eating them?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 19, 2021 at 9:53 pm

      Hi Melissa! Sounds like they’re not getting pollinated for some reason. Are you using pollen from genetically distinct trees? If you only have one tree (which will send off genetically identical runners), you won’t get fruit. However, there are supposed to be some new bred pawpaw cultivars that are self-fertile. If you are using pollen from genetically distinct trees but are still not getting fruit set, there must be some other factor (example: late freezes) that are keeping you from getting fruit. Hope this helps!

  • Reply
    Carol McLaughlin
    May 30, 2021 at 7:28 am

    I have several Pawpaw growing and wanted to plant more, I am in Massachusetts Zone 6. I ordered three cultivars from Starkbros in May but they are giving me a shipping date of July/August….. Do you think it is okay to plant in middle of summer?
    thanks
    Carol.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      May 30, 2021 at 12:20 pm

      Looks like you’ll be getting grafted cultivars that are probably 2 years old. The thing with young pawpaws is they don’t like full sun. As we say in the article: “… we think it’s easier just to keep pawpaws growing in containers until they reach about 3′ tall (around year 3), at which point we transplant them to their final full-sun spot. To keep your young pawpaw trees from getting rootbound in their containers, pot them up to larger pots with new organic potting soil each fall until you transplant them.”

      If I were you, I’d do one of the following:
      1) Keep your pawpaws in containers in a part shade area until fall then transplant them into their final spot after they’ve dropped their leaves. They might not be very happy the first year in full sun and if the heat and sun are too intense, they could die.
      2) Pot them up into larger pots this fall once they’re dormant, then transplant into their final full-sun spots the following fall while keeping them in a part shade spot until then.

      Option 2 means you’ll need to keep them regularly watered and alive in a pot, which can be a challenge if you go on vacation for a week during a dry spell, etc. So you decide which option is right for you.

      • Reply
        Mark Robertson
        May 20, 2022 at 1:51 pm

        Hi Aaron, Great article. When you say “organic potting soil” do you mean potting soil with lots of organic matter: humus, compost, leaf mold, etc? Or do you mean potting soil that contains manure rather than chemical fertilizer?

        • Aaron von Frank
          May 20, 2022 at 4:10 pm

          Hi Mark! Sorry for any confusion. By organic potting soil, we mean OMRI/organic potting soil, which by definition does not contain synthetic fertilizers. Our personal favorite is Fox Farm’s (https://amzn.to/3sP2aGS) but there are plenty of good options out there. POTTING soil is also lighter than GARDEN soil and formulated so as not to compact in pots, which is very important for plant root health. Hope this clarifies but please feel free to ask any other questions you have. And good luck growing your pawpaws!

  • Reply
    Buddy boo
    March 31, 2021 at 1:19 pm

    I don’t have a lot of space. I’m wondering how far I can get away with planting this from a 4 foot high fence. Do you think I can squeeze in a couple of paw paws within 2-3 feet of the fence and keep their growth tight?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 31, 2021 at 4:54 pm

      Hi Buddy! Mature pawpaw trees can grow pretty huge – 30′ or taller with a width of 15’+. Our oldest pawpaw tree is nearing a decade and is already about 20′ tall x 10′ wide. You *could* grow your pawpaws in a tight space next to your fence and trim out the lower branches to accommodate a 4′ tall fence height as the plant matures, but not sure who or what is on the other side of the fence – a street, sidewalk, picky neighbor, etc?

      • Reply
        Buddy boo
        March 31, 2021 at 6:20 pm

        Thanks for sharing, Aaron. It is a neighbor on the other side. I was hoping to get him to sign on by offering him all of the pawpaws he can eat. But given what you’ve shared, I might be better off trying to find another spot in the yard with a bit more room to grow.

  • Reply
    Cady
    March 2, 2021 at 4:53 pm

    Great article. I was interested in whether, in Ag Zone 7a, it made sense to keep saplings in containers for a few years beyond just one or two and then transplant them? And if I do that, should I bring the containers into the basement for their first few winters to make sure they don’t get water-logged or frozen? And if I do go the longer-in-container route but bring them outside to overwinter, should I still cover them in mulch even as they get a bit taller? Thanks for the awesome insight, this is the best article I’ve seen on the subject!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 2, 2021 at 10:11 pm

      Great questions, Cady, thanks! My thoughts on your three questions:

      1. Yes, we recommend keeping your pawpaw saplings in pots/containers for the first few years. That’s because young pawpaws (up to ~3 years old) actually don’t do well in full sun. They’re adapted to grow as understory plants that only grow large once there’s an opening in the canopy (a larger tree falls) or an opening at the edge of a body of water/river. You can mimic this growth pattern by starting them in containers and keeping them in part shade during the warm months (especially afternoon shade) until they’re 4-5 years old, after which you transplant them to their final full-sun spots.

      It’s also very easy to cold-stratify pawpaw seeds using this method. I always take a bunch of seeds from particularly large, tasty pawpaws and plop them in a pot to overwinter outdoors. They then cold stratify and stay wet on their own with zero work required. Then they germinate in the spring. I’ll grow ~10 saplings in a 1-gallon pot this way until they’re 2 year old dormant saplings. I then separate out the individual saplings, pot them up into larger individual containers while the plants are still dormant in late winter, being careful not to do too much damage to the roots. I’ve never lost a sapling this way. (Be sure to use potting mix, not garden soil or you risk soil compaction and poor root development.)

      I think pawpaw’s reputation as not being easy to transplant is probably due to people digging up wild saplings/runners and doing significant root damage prior to attempted transplant.

      2. No, I wouldn’t recommend bringing your containers inside to overwinter unless you want to make extra work for yourself and cause a bit of plant stress by not letting them experience winter/dormant period, which is actually good for plants adapted to do as such.

      Pawpaws are extremely cold-hardy so they won’t be damaged outdoors in pots in your Ag Zone. And since rain is free and doesn’t require you to produce it, that’s something else you don’t have to remember to do.

      You could feasibly continue to grow pawpaw saplings in containers for up to 5 years, but you’d need some fairly large containers by year 5, prob 5 gallons or so.

      3. We put mulch over our pawpaw seeds prior to germination and also keep mulch in the pots for however long until we transplant them out. With the saplings, you don’t want to bury the trunks or you can rot and kill the plants since they don’t form adventitious roots. So: not too thick a mulch layer, and taper it down to the soil line as it approaches the sapling trunk.

      The reason for mulch: it reduces weed seed germination in your pots, and it helps maintain more even soil moisture and soil temps in the pots. I have no actual scientific data to support this, but since pawpaws: a) tend to grow in forests with deep leaf litter on the forest floors, b) are later stage plants in ecological succession, and c) likely have numerous species of symbiont mycorrhizal partners, mulch helps both mimic that environment and promote a more fungal-dominated soil system.

  • Reply
    Catherine White
    August 30, 2020 at 4:38 pm

    I have well over two hundred paw paw trees on my lot. How to I take care of them? I haven’t gotten any fruit . I suspect they are all one tree

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 1, 2020 at 8:59 am

      Wow, that’s a lot of pawpaw trees! If you’re not getting fruit, that does point to the likelihood that it’s a single, clonal colony. You’ll want to order some new pawpaw trees and get them planted asap, and fall is a good time to do that. I’d recommend getting a few different varieties, just to make sure you have lots of genetic diversity (we have links in the article to good pawpaw cultivars and online nurseries). You’ll probably also want to thin out a lot of your young runner trees to give the primary trees maximum resources – sunlight, water, and nutrition. Hope this helps – be patient as you’re likely going to be waiting at least a couple more years for fruit, depending on the age of the new pawpaw trees you plant.

      • Reply
        Catherine White
        November 11, 2020 at 7:35 pm

        I bought four different varieties of paw paw trees …. I just don’t know where to plant them. I’m have they may get too much sun. I bought one variety that is said to definitely produce fruit.

        • Aaron von Frank
          November 12, 2020 at 11:43 am

          Hi Catherine! All pawpaw trees should produce fruit. Regarding sun: it’s only the first few years that you need to worry about them getting too much sun. As we state in the article: “You can plant them [pawpaw saplings] in full sun IF you put a cage with shade cloth around it. However, we think it’s easier just to keep pawpaws growing in containers until they reach about 3′ tall (around year 3), at which point we transplant them to their final full-sun spot.”

  • Reply
    MrsWelton
    November 18, 2019 at 2:10 pm

    Excellent article – invaluable information here! Thank you for writing it! We’re just about to sink our first-year seedlings into the ground for their first winter.

  • Reply
    Yram Htrow
    October 20, 2019 at 4:58 pm

    I’ve lived my whole life 20 miles from the town of Paw Paw, Michigan and have never seen one for sale. I found one at the farmer’s market this week and just got my first taste. WONDERFUL! I’m so glad I found your article on growing pawpaws. I intend to plant some seeds today. I can’t wait 50 years to have my second one!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 21, 2019 at 9:42 am

      Right on! In ~5 years you’ll have your own pawpaw fruit. In the meantime, support those local farmers who are growing them and maybe try to find some good pawpaw foraging spots near you. Easiest time of year to ID good pawpaw foraging spots is in the spring when morel mushrooms are fruiting. They’re not leafed out at that point, but the flowers are very unique and easy to spot. Then you can come back to the same spots for pawpaw fruit in late summer.

      • Reply
        Yram Htrow
        October 25, 2019 at 4:58 pm

        Good idea, thanks!

  • Reply
    RhiosRawEnergy
    October 15, 2019 at 5:41 am

    The seedlings that sprout near the mother plant, (approx. 2 to 3 ft away), can they be dug up and transplanted to another location? If so, when is the best time to do this? Also, I have one seedling that became very tall and sturdy, but I don’t want it that close to the mother tree, can I just cut this down at the base without damaging the mother which is producing well?

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 15, 2019 at 10:46 am

      Those are probably runners from the mother pawpaw tree, not true seedlings that sprouted from fallen fruit/seeds. It’s generally advised that you cut those out to prevent overcrowding. It would be difficult to dig them up and successfully transplant since you’d cause significant root damage when doing so (they’re still attached to the parent tree). Better off growing new pawpaws from fruit seed in small containers, then transplanting those out after 3-5 years to their final desired location. If you do try to dig up a runner, you’d want to do it in the fall/winter once the tree is dormant so the roots might have a chance at recovering – never tried it though, so can’t advise as to potential odds of success.

  • Reply
    Jennifer Malig
    October 4, 2019 at 6:10 am

    Thanks for the easy instructions. I followed them to grow some pawpaw seeds this week, but I have a question. Once the seeds are in the pot to overwinter, do you have to keep the soil moist? Thanks!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      October 4, 2019 at 10:22 am

      You’re very welcome, Jennifer. Answer: it depends. For instance, right now, we have a container planted with new pawpaw seeds from this season’s fruit sitting out front at our house. Since we’re in a severe drought (no rain for last ~8 weeks), we water the container a few times per week to keep it moist. Usually, over the winter, there’s plenty of rain and the soil stays moist since it’s not hot out. So, we don’t worry about watering them then. The seeds usually germinate in early spring and we keep them in containers for a few years (potting them up as they grow). From there, we water the pots in the warm months (keeping the pots in shade since young pawpaws don’t like full sun) but not during the cold months when the plants are dormant. Let me know if that answers your question(s)!

      • Reply
        Jennifer Malig
        October 16, 2019 at 5:58 pm

        Thank you for the response! I live in Maryland and we’ve been in a bit of a drought ourselves, so I’ve been checking the soil and keeping it moist. Thanks for all the tips! I’m hoping to see baby paw paws next spring. Fingers crossed!

        • Aaron von Frank
          October 21, 2019 at 9:42 am

          Always wonderful seeing the baby pawpaws sprout in spring. We’re at capacity for how many pawpaw trees we can grow on our property so we’re growing ours in nursery pots, then transplanting them out in ideal spots at hiking spots that we frequent.

  • Reply
    Steve Gilbert
    September 25, 2019 at 1:01 pm

    I harvest pawpaw each year from the wild.
    I have planted the seeds each year in the woods closer to my house.
    I have still after four years never gotten a single tree to sprout.
    So they certainly can be difficult to get them to grow.
    My woods should be the perfect place for them.
    Have I seen the light and given up, NO, of course not, I’ll keep trying.
    That’s why I’m reading this article to see if I am doing anything wrong

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 25, 2019 at 1:41 pm

      Steve: one thing to note is that pawpaw seeds lose viability very quickly once they’re out of the fruit. We sow our seeds in small containers same-day as we eat the fruit. The next spring, we have close to 100% seed germination. It may be that you’re waiting too long to get your seeds in the ground?

  • Reply
    Angie
    September 24, 2019 at 12:28 am

    I have a few seedlings that sprouted this spring and was wondering if I need to do anything in anticipation for winter (in Michigan). Do I need to overmulch or insulate? (They are currently potted on my balcony).

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 24, 2019 at 11:40 am

      Hi Angie! You probably don’t need to take any extra precautions. Pawpaws’ native range extends into Michigan and beyond, so young pawpaw plants are used to surviving your winters with frozen ground that extends deep into the soil’s subsurface. They’ll look like dead twigs come spring time, but as the weather warms, buds and leaves will soon emerge.

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Parenting

How NOT to raise a picky eater – 16 tips for parents

How NOT to raise a picky eater - 16 tips for parents thumbnail

Our toddler happily eats everything from Brussels sprouts to broccoli to green olives. If you’re trying to figure out how NOT to raise a picky eater, this article will provide proven tips to help you!


Picky eating is an historical anomaly 

Is there a particular food or cuisine you find disgusting?

I’ve never tried (or smelled) it, but hákarl seems like a strong candidate for a food I would not enjoy eating — at least on my first attempts. (For reference, hákarl is a pungent-smelling fermented shark meat and also the national dish of Iceland.) I also don’t find really spicy-hot foods appealing, so authentic southeast Asian and Latin American cuisines are a challenge for me.  

Nevertheless, toddlers and children growing up where these foods/flavors are the norm don’t tend to starve to death. Why? 

Because they’re exposed to these unique cultural flavors while in the womb, through breastmilk, and learning to eat solid foods. As for solid foods, most families around the world — and throughout human history — don’t make separate meals for their children.

The children are simply expected to eat what everyone else is eating when everyone else is eating it, without coercion or fanfare.

Children in Thailand aren’t given a 1-5 scale of how spicy they want their curry, they eat it at the same spiciness level as their family. Likewise, prehistoric Baby Ogg didn’t get a bowl of pureed, sweetened gruel while his family dined on mammoth, berries, and tubers. 

The implications? Despite what we modern American parents might think or fear, every child — even your currently picky eater — has the potential to eat a wide range of foods and a dazzling array of flavors and textures.

Sebastian's first meal out at around 21 months old. Here, he's enjoying a charcuterie board with his family. It's REALLY nice not having a picky eater when you're at a restaurant.

Sebastian’s first meal out at around 21 months old. Here, he’s enjoying a charcuterie board with his family. It’s REALLY nice not having a picky eater when you’re at a restaurant.

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    MJ
    February 23, 2022 at 2:51 pm

    So many great tips, and you’ve inspired me to look back at Mason’s messier eating days… I suppose he has made progress, lol. Question: how do you respond when Sebastian eats all of a particular food from his plate and wants more of it (but hasn’t yet touched the other items in front of him)? We tend to ask Mason to try all his other food before getting more of what he finished, but I don’t know if there’s a better way to handle that.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      February 23, 2022 at 3:56 pm

      Glad that this article inspired you to reflect on Mason’s eating cleanliness improvements! It’s nice that both our toddlers no longer bathe in their meals. 😛

      As for your question: the answer somewhat depends on where Sebastian is in his meal. If he’s already done a good job of trying everything on his plate and he’s already eaten a decent, well-balanced meal, we’ll give him a little bit more of a favorite requested item. He usually doesn’t ask for more of anything because that’s not something we typically do, therefore it’s not top of mind for him. If he hasn’t yet tried everything and had a decent meal when making such a request, we encourage him to try other things on his plate while we do our best not to draw attention (negative or positive) to his request or eating behaviors. He almost always goes back to what’s on his plate and forgets about his prior request.

      Our best guess: if a toddler knows they can easily request and get more of something, they’re going to do that at every opportunity. If that option isn’t on the proverbial menu, they don’t think to order it.

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Geese

7 reasons why you shouldn’t get geese

7 reasons why you shouldn't get geese thumbnail

Should you raise geese? Here are seven reasons you shouldn’t get geese — things you should know BEFORE you say yes to having geese in your life. 


In my first goose article, I expounded on all the reasons why you should keep geese. (See: Top 10 reasons to get geese.)

As someone who loves geese and feels they’re a perfect fit for my land, I’m quite biased. However, there are situations where it may not be ideal to keep geese.

Not every animal is the right fit for every person or space — or maybe you simply aren’t yet prepared to bring home a fluffy little dinosaur. It’s better to know that now rather than later! 

Why you shouldn't raise geese. Are geese knocking (or sleeping) on the door to your heart? There are seven things you should know before you give in and get geese.

Are geese knocking (or sleeping) on the door to your heart? There are seven things you should know before you give in and get geese…

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8 Comments

  • Reply
    Noah
    September 20, 2023 at 10:26 pm

    This is just totally random, but I could never figure out why my chickens used the bathroom (aka, the porch) every time they stepped onto the concrete. Isn’t it weird?
    Thanks for the warnings about geese! All of that is good to know!

  • Reply
    Amanda
    August 18, 2023 at 10:50 am

    I have two female geese and raised them from hatchlings they are 4 years old now and I would not trade them for the world.
    I would take all the changeing water, watering the grass nightly to clean it, what little they honk (ones it more noisy than the other different breeds), raking the yard because it looks like they blew up feathers everywhere, and their back taking and toddler like behavior because they have to try everything because the personality is amazing. Their characters are completely different from each other but that’s what makes them great.

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      August 18, 2023 at 11:04 am

      Sounds like you’re a wonderful goose momma! It’s important that people have a realistic idea of what to expect BEFORE they get animals like ducks and geese, otherwise people are going to be more likely to provide inadequate care or abandon them. Cheers to you and your two geese!

  • Reply
    jac
    March 17, 2023 at 2:55 pm

    I currently have 3 dogs left.

  • Reply
    J Ray
    March 17, 2023 at 2:52 pm

    Thanks for good information on this site.
    After loosing (stolen) my beautiful Sheppard girl Bella… This is 2nd incident within 2 years time I am just heart broken angry and sad. I have rather open rural area house in CA. My house is last on the street and next to me is open field and space. I let all my dogs have their fun and exploring enjoyment roaming around 3 acres that are fenced. But their curiosity digs bottom of fences to go out to explore open space next to the house and neighbors area. All my dogs are always always healthy and rather very beautiful (according to neighbors). I told them its not just good food but loving emotional connection with them. Due to this beauty they poses and this is the target for
    stealing by strangers and other people. After loosing 4 beautiful dogs this way over the years I am no longer wish to have another heart break. So I discussed with my husband getting geese for guard and protection for dogs.
    This is how I come across your site. Please do advise me if there are any more things I have to consider although their noise making concerns lot to consider.
    Thanks, Jaclyn

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      March 18, 2023 at 10:53 am

      How awful to have your dogs stolen. So sorry! Using geese to protect your German shepherds is an interesting idea. While the geese could sound an alarm and potentially even scare off human dog thieves, you’d have to wonder whether they could permanently keep away a determined thief. For instance, a thief could poison or kill the geese in order to get to the dogs. Also, if the geese honked as an alert to the presence of unwanted humans, you (or someone in your house) would have to then spring to alert and go stop the potential thieves. Perhaps the biggest wild card: you’d also have to make sure to train your dogs NOT to kill your geese. I’m not saying what you’re proposing is impossible, just that there are a lot of considerations to take into account before you move forward with this plan. Another possible guard animal you might consider is alpacas, but I’m not sure how they’d get along with German shepherds either. Perhaps the best fail-safe solution is to keep the dogs in a highly secured area on your property. Again, so sorry you’re going through this situation and we wish you success in coming up with a solution.

  • Reply
    Sam
    September 30, 2022 at 10:42 am

    Are there any devices (similar to the concept of ultrasonic bard controllers) I can use to stop my neighbor’s geese from honking? He stuck them in his front yard, right next to the road so they are constantly being set off. It’s beyond irritating!!!!

    • Reply
      Aaron von Frank
      September 30, 2022 at 11:15 am

      Ugh, sorry Sam. That’s not very conscientious of your neighbor. Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do from a device/technology standpoint to get your neighbor’s geese to stop honking. Geese do tend to be very protective and anxious about strange noises, objects, etc in their living space, so as you’ve said cars coming past on a nearby street is likely to keep them in a near-constant state of noisiness.

      It might be socially challenging, but the best first step is to try to calmly and nicely discuss the problem with your neighbor to try to get the geese moved to the backyard or to provide some sort of visual barrier between the geese and the street. (Even then, the noise of the cars going by might still trigger them.) If your neighbor is unwilling to remedy the situation after a courtesy prompt, you might have to go the regulatory route. Depending on where you live, there may be livestock and/or noise ordinances that he’s currently violating. Go that route as a last resort so as not to make things too tense between you. Best of luck and sorry for your troubles.

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Gardening Recipes

Blood orange bars with sage brown butter shortbread crust

Blood orange bars with sage brown butter shortbread crust thumbnail

These delectable ‘Moro’ blood orange bars feature a sage brown butter shortbread crust made with white whole wheat flour. If you’ve got blood oranges to spare, this is the perfect dessert recipe!


‘Moro’ blood orange flavor changes throughout the season

A neat thing about growing food is you get to experiment with various stages of edibility throughout a plant’s lifecycle. That’s certainly true with citrus.  

Among other citrus trees we grow in pots in our decidedly non-tropical Zone 7b climate is ‘Moro’ blood oranges.

Perfectly ripened 'Moro' blood oranges right off the tree.

Perfectly ripened ‘Moro’ blood oranges right off the tree, homegrown in a pot.

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    Foraged

    How to find morel mushrooms in the southeast US

    How to find morel mushrooms in the southeast US thumbnail

    We’ve been foraging morel mushrooms in the southeast US for over a decade. Our guide to finding morels in the southeast will help you find these delicious mushrooms too!


    What is a morel mushroom? 

    Morel mushrooms are a genus (Morchella) of prized culinary mushrooms with a distinct sponge-honeycomb texture on their caps. Different species of morels can be found in temperate climate regions around the world, including in the southeastern United States. 

    Morels are believed to be both mycorrhizal and saprotrophic. That means they form symbiotic relationships with their host trees and they also consume decaying organic matter.  

    A nice haul of morel mushrooms foraged in the southeast US - South Carolina.

    A nice haul of morel mushrooms foraged in the southeast US – South Carolina to be exact.

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    2 Comments

    • Reply
      Chris
      April 16, 2022 at 5:24 pm

      Over the last 2 years I’ve probably put 100 miles on my boots looking for morels here in upstate SC. Still haven’t found one. I live in Simpsonville and I’ve searched flood plains to the tops of the mountains. Every kind of ecosystem I can think of based on the info I’ve gathered. I start searching in mid March thru the month of April. I haven’t been able to find any elm trees that I’ve positively identified so I’ve been searching poplars and sycamores. Any tips or advice would be appreciated!

      • Reply
        Aaron von Frank
        April 18, 2022 at 11:22 am

        The large blond/yellow early-season morels are very easy to see IF you have a good spot. However, it’s VERY hard to find a good spot. We’ve only found four spots we’d consistently call “good” within a 50 mile radius of Greenville, SC, where we live. We’ve seen plenty of other spots that are probably good, but are inaccessible due to posted signs and/or being on hunt clubs. These spots are all large flood plains comprising many miles and they all feature mature, mixed-deciduous forests. Even in these spots, “good” means you walk 1-2 miles and find 20-50 large morels.

        Conversely, small later-season tulip morels are REALLY hard to see but they are much more common. If there’s a creek or river with even a shallow floodplain (10-50 yards) plus large tulip poplar trees present, there’s a pretty good chance you’ll find tulip morels if you look hard when they’re fruiting. When I say tulip morels are “hard to spot” I mean that we’ll often be standing right over or on them and the person walking next to us will still have to point them out. Or you squat down to pick one, very slowly and carefully survey the surrounding area, and then realize you just walked right past five other ones. Even though we’re very experienced at finding them, their camouflage humbles us every single year!

        Long story short: it’s entirely possible you’ve never been to a spot where large, blond/yellow morels are fruiting. It’s also very likely (given what you’ve said) that you’ve walked right over or past countless tulip morels. FYI this year’s season is pretty well over in our area, but you could still find them up in the mountains or in cooler microclimates. They’re also much easier to spot after rains and on cloudy days.

        Good news: once you find a good spot, you can go there year after year around the same time to find more. Just be sure to put them in a breathable bag or basket so they spore out as you walk to help produce future mushrooms.

        May the morel gods smile upon your efforts next year!

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    Foraged Gardening Recipes

    Recipe: American groundnut and maitake mushroom chowder

    Recipe: American groundnut and maitake mushroom chowder thumbnail

    American groundnut (Apios americana) is a native plant that produces a starchy, protein-rich tuber. Maitake mushrooms (aka hen of the woods) are a prized culinary and medicinal fungi. We set out to combine these two ingredients into one delectable chowder recipe… 


    Seasonal native foods combine for a new recipe

    We’ve previously written about how to grow, harvest, and use American groundnuts. We’ve also written about how to identify and forage maitake mushrooms.

    Both of these foods are amazing in the kitchen. There’s also increasing evidence that they offer some pretty extraordinary health/medicinal benefits as we wrote about in our introductory articles.   

    American groundnut tubers are ready to harvest and eat in the fall. The same is true with maitake mushrooms. 

    These are precious foods to us – we don’t have a lot to spare. We only grow about 10 pounds of American groundnuts each year (though we plan to increase that quantity in future summers).

    Maitakes are a rare mushroom for us, so we’re lucky to have enough excess to store a few pounds in the freezer at the end of our fall foraging season. This year, our prime maitake mushroom spot didn’t even fruit, so we’re down to the last of our previous year’s supply. 

    American groundnut and maitake mushroom chowder made with seasonal ingredients we value like gold.

    American groundnut and maitake mushroom chowder made with seasonal ingredients we value like gold.

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      Ducks

      5 tips: How to go on vacation without your ducks (or other poultry)

      5 tips: How to go on vacation without your ducks (or other poultry) thumbnail

      In this article, we’ll share are our top 5 tips for pet or backyard duck parents who want to go on vacation without their poultry. 


      Vacationing without your poultry: is it possible? 

      We know what you’re thinking: why on earth would anyone want to go on vacation without all their ducks? It’s a fair question… 

      While you may be wondering whether you can get all of your waterfowl aboard an airplane as a registered emotional support flock, chances are airlines will not take kindly to your flightless waterfowl flying the friendly skies with you.

      Two of our ducks trying to muscle their way into our suitcase so they can go on vacation with us. How to go on vacation without your ducks or other poultry.

      Two of our ducks trying to muscle their way into our suitcase so they can go on vacation with us.

      And even if you travel by car with diapered ducks aboard, your hosts may not be as thrilled as you are when you show up in a car filled with ducks, chickens, or geese.   

      In short: assuming you want to occasionally be able to go on vacation without your poultry, you need to figure out how to do so without putting your fowl at heightened risk while you’re gone. Not to worry… we have experience in this area and we’ll share our top tips and recommendations for how to go on vacation without your ducks or other poultry!

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      4 Comments

      • Reply
        Katya
        April 25, 2024 at 6:40 pm

        Thank you, this helps tons! We actually have a video system already, so wanted to check on them ourselves and if need be flag to friend to come over. Great call on doing a trial first whilst we’re at home ourselves!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          April 26, 2024 at 3:55 pm

          You’re very welcome! Good luck going on vacation without your ducks. 🙂 The first time is the hardest.

      • Reply
        Katya
        April 17, 2024 at 4:50 pm

        Thank you so much for this post, so helpful!

        Wanted to ask for your advice, we live in the countryside and have a sizeable run (12sq. m) for the ducks (that is connected to coop and is protected by wire mesh from predators). We also have a big feeder and few large water tubs for water (including one that can be automatically refilled)

        We are planning to be away for 3 weeks, and are trying to figure out what would be the right cadence for visits – would it be enough if someone comes over once in 3 days (2 times per week roughly) or should we plan to ask people to come over more often?

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          April 18, 2024 at 11:59 am

          With your setup, it sounds like having someone come every 3 days might be fine *IF* the food doesn’t run out, get wet/ruined by rain, and/or get eaten by rodents that tunnel in. One thing you could do in advance of your trip is do a test run to see how things go with once every three day care provided. Something else you may want to consider doing if it’s in your budget is installing a video system so you can check in on your flock remotely whenever you want. Hope this helps!

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      Geese

      Top 10 reasons to raise geese

      Top 10 reasons to raise geese thumbnail

      Are you wondering whether you should raise geese? Are geese the right animal for you?

      Whether you have a homestead, hobby farm, working farm, or just your backyard, the domestic goose will add beauty, laughter, and a bit of service, too. However, geese are not a perfect fit for everyone… 

      Top 10 reasons to raise geese: 

      Here are ten reasons why you may want to raise geese: 

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      6 Comments

      • Reply
        Jan Steinman
        February 2, 2023 at 7:05 pm

        Entertainment! Yes!

        When I was a teen-ager, by best friend was born with spina bifida. He used a wheelchair and crutches. On his first “real” job, he got a Ford Pinto. I helped him attach the hand controls.

        He was busy “tricking out” his Pinto, and had just installed “mooners” — chrome hemispherical hubcaps — and had just driven up our farm road to show them off to me.

        Well, the geese noticed. And they saw the other geese in his hubcaps! They ran over, honking loudly, and began pecking on his hubcaps!

        At that point, he jumped out of his car, and began crawling around in the gravel, beating at the geese with his crutches! I fell down, rolling on the ground, laughing!

        • Reply
          Aaron von Frank
          February 3, 2023 at 11:59 am

          Ha, we’ve heard lots of similar geese stories, including from MJ (the author of this article). Hopefully, your friend’s shiny new Pinto hubcaps didn’t get too dinged up from your geese. 😛

      • Reply
        Bryon Kennedy
        January 5, 2022 at 3:55 pm

        Love this post! Thanks for the toxic plant list, it’s one of the better ones I’ve seen. We added our first geese to our poultry mix 2 years ago and doubled down on more last year. Everything you mentioned has been true for us as well, especially the weird concrete obsession. For a while we were blaming our Australian Shepherd puppy for dragging stuff off the patio, but it was mostly the geese!

        • Reply
          Madia (MJ)
          January 5, 2022 at 6:33 pm

          Oh they can be stinkers, can’t they? But benefits far outweigh the naughtiness, yes? I’m relieved to hear that the love of concrete seems to be universal, and not an indication that our geese are somehow defective (ha!). So glad you found the list helpful- it’s the best I’ve found, although the geese seem pretty adept at avoiding any problematic plants on their own.

      • Reply
        Jules Jenkins
        January 5, 2022 at 11:57 am

        I’ve enjoyed reading and following Tyrant Farms since I was first ‘gifted’ 13 Muscovy Ducks. The males eventually went to new homes and I have 4 great layers. Then I bought 5 ducks and an Embden & Fr Toulouse geese. MJ is right about Geese! I’m just crazy about my geese!!! The ducks are terrific but, my Embden, Downtown Abby, aka Abby and Fr Toulouse, aka Lucy are absolutely my favs!!!! Everything MJ says is so true. I live alone but never feel alone since the geese came. They are delightful. I’m definitely getting more in the Spring. Thanks for including MJ in your posts. Jules

        • Reply
          Madia (MJ)
          January 5, 2022 at 6:26 pm

          Thank you for sharing about your geese friends- I love hearing about feathered friendships! Geese are really just a totally different bird aren’t they? In the best way. I’m so glad you enjoyed the article and look forward to connecting with other goose enthusiasts, such as yourself!

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      Geese

      Welcome Madia “MJ” Smith (goose whisperer) to Tyrant Farms!

      Welcome Madia "MJ" Smith (goose whisperer) to Tyrant Farms! thumbnail

      As you may know, Tyrant Farms is named in honor of the benevolent dictator, Susan the Tyrant. 

      Unlike many websites in our space, we don’t accept sponsored posts, guest posts, or any form of paid content. It’s just not what we do. 

      Instead, everything on the Tyrant Farms’s website is created by me (Aaron, husband of The Tyrant) or The Tyrant herself (when she’s not riding around in her palanquin). That’s to say, everything here is a reflection of who we are, what we’re doing, and — most importantly — what we know about and want to share with you, dear reader. 

      Introducing Madia MJ Smith, goose whisperer 

      Thanks to Instagram, The Tyrant got to be best friends with a goose-loving, heirloom apple orchardist named MJ Smith. (Check out her Instagram, Hoof and Feather Farm.)

      Both our families had baby boys within a week of each other, so MJ and Susan were a constant source of support and consolation for each other from pregnancy onward. MJ is in the high desert of Colorado and we’re in Upstate South Carolina, but the internet makes the miles between us less daunting. 

      A few things we’ve noticed about MJ over the years:

      • She’s a gifted writer and an extraordinarily thoughtful, caring person. 
      • She is a seriously hard worker willing to learn and do whatever it takes to get a job done right (or at least good enough).
      • She knows every bit as much about raising heritage breed geese as we know about raising heritage breed ducks. 

      And that last point is why The Tyrant decreed “we need to bring on MJ to write about geese.” (Not that it matters, but I thought it was a great idea too.) 

      Want to learn about raising geese? 

      If you have a large yard, homestead, or small farm and you’re considering raising geese OR want to do a better job of raising geese you already have, MJ the goose whisperer is going to be providing you with lots of helpful information in her upcoming articles.  

      Even if you don’t want geese, you might enjoy gawking (or honking?) at the incredibly beautiful, National Geographic-quality photos of MJ’s geese roaming about on her heirloom apple orchard in Colorado. 

      Geese are hard to compete with in the

      Photos like these from MJ’s farm make us want geese – just so we can look at them. 

      Welcome to the Tyrant Farms’ family, MJ! Thanks for helping us spread the word about another species of heritage breed animal that deserves to be preserved, appreciated, and utilized by backyard poultry enthusiasts, homesteaders, and farmers alike! 


      Update: MJ has now authored a book all about keeping geese, as part of our Impractical Guide book series. If you want to discover how to raise the world’s most underrated domestic bird, you can order her book on Amazon in paperback or digital/ebook format
      The impractical guide to raising geese book - banner

      Subscribe to our new geese articles!

      Please subscribe to our GEESE articles if you want to get MJ’s newest articles delivered to your inbox as soon as they’re published! 

      Flap on over to these goose articles:

      2 Comments

      • Reply
        MJ
        January 4, 2022 at 7:06 pm

        Ok, now I’m crying.
        Thank you for the opportunity and, most of all, for the Tyrant’s amazing friendship.

        • Reply
          Susan von Frank
          January 4, 2022 at 9:34 pm

          Thank you, MJ! I’m so glad for our chance connection years ago and for your wonderful friendship.

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      Christmas tree sugar cookies (made with conifer needles)

      Christmas tree sugar cookies (made with conifer needles) thumbnail

      Take your holiday sugar cookies to the next level with this Christmas tree sugar cookie recipe. Flavored with edible conifer needles, they taste as good as Christmas trees smell. 


      What’s the first thing your brain conjures up when you think of the word “Christmas?” Santa? The Grinch? Clark Griswold?  

      For me the answer is sugar cookies. I didn’t grow up eating a lot of desserts, and still don’t. However, during the holidays, our family would splurge on a few homemade desserts.

      For whatever reason, my favorite was sugar cookies. Perhaps because the recipe was simple enough for me to make, even as a young kid. Perhaps because it was so much fun rolling out the dough and using cookie cutters. Or perhaps it’s because they’re so dang good, despite their quick prep time and simple ingredients. 

      Christmas tree sugar cookies combine the wonderful rosemary-citrus flavors of edible conifer needles and the sweet richness of sugar cookies.

      Christmas tree sugar cookies combine the wonderful rosemary-citrus flavors of edible conifer needles and the sweet richness of sugar cookies.

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        Christmas tree cured egg yolks (made w/ conifer needles)

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        Find out how to use conifer needle/Christmas tree salt (or sugar-salt combination) to create Christmas tree cured egg yolks. The result: a beautifully colored, umami and Christmas tree flavoring that can be grated or thin-sliced on to sweet and savory dishes alike. 


        Our flock of Welsh Harlequin ducks aren’t laying eggs now that we’ve reached November. Low sunlight levels plus our curtailing their protein intake means their “egg makers” turn off.  

        Duck eggs (and yolks) are larger, richer, and more nutrient-dense than chicken eggs. (See: Duck eggs vs chicken eggs.) Since we eat a LOT of eggs, we have to buy quality chicken eggs this time of year to satisfy our egg needs. 

        One thing we like to have around: cured egg yolks, which add exquisite color and umami flavor to a wide variety of dishes, both savory and sweet. If you’ve never had them before, cured egg yolks are akin to an orange-colored parmesan cheese that’s so easy to make anyone can do it.

        We’ll also show you how to modify our cured egg yolk recipe to make them better for sweet or savory dishes depending on your preferences. In our opinion, duck eggs make the best cured egg yolks, but other types of poultry eggs work great, too. So go with whatever type of eggs you have available.  

        Amber? Nope, a thin-sliced piece of conifer needle/Christmas tree cured egg yolk.

        Amber? Nope, a thin-sliced piece of conifer needle/Christmas tree cured egg yolk.

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          Recipe: Christmas tree crème brûlée (made w/ conifer needles)

          Recipe: Christmas tree crème brûlée (made w/ conifer needles) thumbnail

          Find out how to turn the needles from your Christmas tree (or any edible conifer tree) into a unique and delicious holiday treat: Christmas tree crème brûlée. 


          If you’ve ever wanted to eat Christmas in a spoon, this Christmas tree crème brûlée recipe will help you unwrap that desire. We’ve been playing with edible conifers in the kitchen for quite a while, and this recipe is about as good as it gets for capturing the delicious flavors hiding away in your Christmas tree needles. 

          Find out how to make Christmas tree crème brûlée using the needles from your Christmas tree or other edible conifers!

          Find out how to make Christmas tree crème brûlée using the needles from your Christmas tree or other edible conifers! (For anyone curious: citrus in picture is homegrown calamondin oranges and red berries are wild partridge berries.)

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            Christmas tree salt (made with edible conifer needles)

            Christmas tree salt (made with edible conifer needles) thumbnail

            Find out how to make Christmas tree salt (made with spruce, fir, or other edible conifer needles). This is a simple base recipe that can be used as an ingredient in a wide variety of other foods and beverages to add unique flavor. 


            Using and making Christmas tree salt 

            Christmas tree salt is one of the base recipes we recommend in our How to eat your Christmas tree guide

            You can use this infused salt to add Christmas tree flavor to: 

            • cured meats,
            • cured egg yolks, 
            • lacto-fermented veggies, 
            • sauces, 
            • mild-flavored starchy vegetables like potatoes or corn, 
            • mixed with Christmas tree sugar on the rim of glasses on mixed drinks,
            • and more. 

            Basically, any recipe that needs salt and whose flavors will pair well with the unique rosemary-citrusy flavor of Christmas tree needles can benefit from the addition of Christmas tree salt. Do note that this salt will only add a bit of Christmas tree flavor to a dish since you’re never adding or eating large quantities of salt at a time (hopefully). 

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              Recipe: Christmas tree cream/milk (made with conifer needles)

              Recipe: Christmas tree cream/milk (made with conifer needles) thumbnail

              Find out how to make Christmas tree cream (made with spruce, fir, or other edible conifer needles). This is a simple base recipe that can be used as an ingredient in a wide variety of other foods and drinks to add incredible, unique flavor. 


              Using and making Christmas tree cream (or milk)

              Christmas tree cream & milk are base recipes we recommend in our How to Eat Your Christmas Tree Guide

              You can use these infusions as a base to add Christmas tree flavor to other recipes like pudding and custard, ice cream, eggnog, or any cream-based recipe where the unique rosemary-citrus flavors of edible conifer trees will work. You can also make Christmas tree whipped cream as a topping for other desserts.

              On the beverage side of things, use Christmas tree cream or milk to make unforgettable eggnogs, hot chocolates, or even add a bit of holiday cheer to your morning cup of coffee. 

              Cream or milk? 

              Both Christmas tree cream and milk are made the same exact way, as we’ll detail below. The difference is as simple as the name implies: cream is used for one infusion and milk is used for the other. Regardless of which one you’re making, we recommend:

              • using organic grass-fed dairy products,
              • using the mature needles of edible conifer trees (see warnings below). 

              Safety warnings

              We detail three warnings in our How to Eat Your Christmas Tree Guide that we’ll briefly outline again here (read the guide for more info):

              1. You should know what type of tree you’re planning to eat (especially when foraging) because there are poisonous evergreen species. For instance, yews are deadly poisonous, although yews are not used for Christmas trees or ornamentation in the US. 
              2. Commercial Christmas trees may have synthetic pesticide residues on them. In some locations, organic Christmas trees are available. Synthetic pesticides are not permitted on organic farms. 
              3. Like any food, some people may have sensitivities/allergies to edible conifer needles. Especially if you’re prone to food allergies, try a small amount to make sure you have no averse reactions before eating larger quantities. 

              What are the best conifer needles for Christmas tree cream and milk?

              The types of edible conifers/Christmas trees that will make the best Christmas tree cream and milk are: 

              • spruces (Picea spp.)
              • firs (Abies spp.)
              • Douglass-fir, which is not a true fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
              • hemlocks (Tsuga spp.)

              Some species of pines (Pinus spp.) would also work in a pinch, but the trees listed above will work better. Keep in mind that each genus/species of edible conifer tree listed above has different, unique flavor characteristics.

              To find out more about the various species of edible conifers plus how to ID, harvest, and process the needles, please give our How to Eat Your Christmas Tree Guide a read!

              Regardless of which edible conifer species you use for this recipe, we’d recommend using fresh, green mature needles for best results.

              Two ways to make Christmas tree cream and milk, depending on your preferences

              Regardless of which infusion method you use below, we’ve found that a 1:4 ratio of fresh Christmas tree needles to cream/milk works best. Example: 1 cup of spruce needles to 4 cups cream. 

              Option 1. Cold infusion

              Making Christmas tree cream or milk via a cold infusion process produces the most intense flavor (read: best), but it takes more time to make (3 days is ideal).

              Here’s how: 

              • Put your needles and a quarter of your cream into a blender and blend until the cream thickens too much to continue blending. Then add another 1/4 of your cream and repeat the process until you’re out of cream. By then, you basically have unsweetened *whipped cream full of partly chopped up needles. (*Whole milk or lower fat milk options will not whip; they maintain a liquid form throughout the infusion process.) 
              • Put the mixture in a jar/container in your fridge, and stir for 30-60 seconds twice daily with a spoon. With cream, each time you stir, more of the tiny bubbles in the partially whipped cream are broken down helping to return the texture to more of a cream-like consistency. Stirring also helps extract more flavor from the needles with either cream or milk versions. 
                • Cream only – After three days, remove from fridge and place cream over low heat in a sauce pan for about 5 minutes, stirring regularly to make sure things don’t get too hot. You’re not trying to cook it; you’re simply trying to get the cream to the point where all those little bubbles collapse and you’re able to easily strain it through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer to remove the needles. You may need to strain multiple times to remove all the needles. 
                • Milk only – After three days, remove from fridge and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer to remove the needles. You may need to strain multiple times to remove all the needles. 

              Once the needles are strained, you’ve got cold-infused Christmas tree cream or milk. Store in your fridge for later or use immediately.

              Option 2. Hot infusion

              Making Christmas tree cream or milk via a hot infusion process produces less intensely flavored cream/milk, but it takes way less time to make (~40 minutes total).  

              Here’s how: 

              • Put your needles and a quarter of your cream into a blender and blend until the cream thickens too much to continue blending. Then add another 1/4 of your cream and repeat the process until you’re out of cream. By then, you basically have unsweetened whipped cream full of partly chopped up needles. (*Here again, with milk version, you can simply blend needles and milk together without them whipping.)
              • Ladle the cream-needle mix into a saucepan over medium low heat (3 on our stovetop). (Milk version will pour out.) Stir or whisk every few minutes to prevent sticking and make sure the cream or milk doesn’t get too hot. You don’t want it boiling. You’re going for a relatively slow, low temperature infusion that doesn’t produce off flavors or too much bitter from the needles. 
              • After ~30 minutes, remove from heat and strain out needles through cheesecloth or mesh strainer. You may need to strain multiple times in order to remove all the needles. 

              Once the needles are strained, you’ve got hot-infused Christmas tree cream or milk. Store in your fridge or use immediately.

              Three other important recipe notes:

              1. Regardless of whether you utilize the cold- or hot-infusion method detailed above, if you start with 1 cup of cream or milk, you’ll likely end up with about 7/8 cup of strained cream/milk after the needles are removed.

              If you have a recipe that calls for 1 cup of cream, simply top up your infused cream with a bit of fresh cream to make up the difference. Same with the milk version.  

              2. Yes, we do blind taste tests with our recipe trials (and errors) when trying to decide between different versions. One such taste test involved various iterations of our Christmas tree crème brûlée.

              One version used cold-infused cream, the other used hot-infused cream. Otherwise, the two versions were identical. Results from the three tasters?

              Two out of three liked the more intense flavor of the cold-infused cream version. One liked the milder/less intense flavor of the hot-infused version. 

              Make of this info (from a three-person blind taste testing) what you will. If you don’t have time to make a more intensely flavored cold-infused cream but you still want maximum flavor, perhaps you could go for a longer heat-infusion (45-60 minutes) on your cream to extract more flavor without also extracting unpleasant notes.    

              Want to taste Christmas in a spoon? Make our Christmas tree creme brulee recipe!

              Want to taste Christmas in a spoon? Make our Christmas tree crème brûlée recipe

              3. By itself (read: unsweetened) Christmas tree cream and milk are rather savory and a bit intense. They’re not supposed to be consumed as-is; they’re a base ingredient to be added to other recipes. 

              However, once sweetened and made into desserts or beverages, they’re quite magical as you’ll soon find out!  

              Recipe: Christmas tree cream or milk

              Christmas tree cream and milk recipes / dairy infused with edible conifer needle flavor
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              Christmas tree cream (made with conifer needles)

              Course: Dessert
              Keyword: Christmas tree recipes, conifer needle recipe, edible Christmas tree

              Turn your Christmas tree needles into Christmas tree cream to make outrageously flavorful puddings, custards, whipped cream and more.

              Ingredients

              • 1/4 cup freshly harvested mature conifer needles (fir, spruce, Douglas fir, or hemlock tree needles work best)
              • 1 cup organic cream / whipping cream

              Instructions

              Option 1: For COLD-infused Christmas tree cream:

              1. Add needles plus a quarter of your cream into a blender. Blend until the cream thickens too much to continue blending. Add another quarter of your cream and repeat the process until all cream is incorporated and has a whipped cream consistency. (*Milk will not thicken when blended, only cream.)

              2. Ladle into a covered jar/container and place in your fridge for 3 days, stirring twice a day for 30-60 seconds with a spoon. This helps break down bubbles in cream and extract more flavor from needles. If making milk version, we still recommend stirring twice daily to aid flavor infusion.

              3. CREAM ONLY - On Day 3, remove cream from fridge and place over low heat in a sauce pan for about 5 minutes, stirring regularly to make sure things don’t get too hot. You’re not trying to cook the cream, you just want it warm enough to return it to a liquid state so it strains easily. Strain heated cream through a cheese cloth or a mesh strainer to remove the needles. Repeat the straining process as-needed (or use a finer strainer) until all needles are removed.

                MILK ONLY - On Day 3, remove milk from fridge and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer to remove the needles. Repeat the straining process as-needed (or use a finer strainer) until all needles are removed.

              Option 2: For HOT-infused Christmas tree cream:

              1. Add needles plus a quarter of your cream into a blender. Blend until the cream *thickens too much to continue blending. Add another quarter of your cream and repeat the process until all cream is incorporated and has a whipped cream consistency. (*Milk version will not thicken or whip.)

              2. Ladle cream into a saucepan on medium low heat (3 on our stovetop) or pour in for milk version. Stir or whisk every few minutes to prevent sticking and make sure the cream/milk doesn’t get too hot. You don’t want it boiling. You’re aiming for a relatively slow, low temperature infusion that doesn’t cause the needles to produce off flavors or too much bitterness.  

              3. After about 30 minutes, remove from heat and strain out needles through cheesecloth or mesh strainer. (Or cook for another 5-10 minutes for more flavor intensity before straining.) Repeat straining process as-needed until all needles are removed, or do secondary straining through finer meshed strainer.

              Now the fun begins – putting these flavorful ingredients to work in desserts and drinks. Enjoy!   

              KIGI,

              Want to dig your fork deeper into edible conifers? 

              Start here: Tyrant Farms’ Edible Christmas Tree Guide

              Base recipes: 

              Additional Christmas tree/edible conifer recipes: 

              We’d also like to recommend two books for other Christmas tree eaters and food explorers; each contains delicious recipes you can make with your Christmas tree:  

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